(Topic ID: 65944)

Fathom Owners Club & Restorations Thread Fans Are Also Welcome

By Hellfire

7 years ago


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  • 749 posts
  • 187 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 14 hours ago by Mad_Dog_Coin_Op
  • Topic is favorited by 70 Pinsiders

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There are 749 posts in this topic. You are on page 15 of 15.
#701 3 months ago
Quoted from swampfire:

^^^ yes, that’s the one.

Thanks! I’ll troubleshoot that as well.

#702 3 months ago
Quoted from mjalexan:

Not sure which part you’re referring to?

The hasp that hooks/locks the head to the cab.

#703 3 months ago
Quoted from gliebig:

The hasp that hooks/locks the head to the cab.

Isn’t it the same as other ballys of the era with two hinges on the front then two bolts that go through the bottom of the head and thread into the neck? In any case, I don’t have a clasp. Marco has the over-center style clasp used on Williams games, maybe that would work?

#704 3 months ago
Quoted from gliebig:

The hasp that hooks/locks the head to the cab.

My Fathom didn't have one.

#705 3 months ago
Quoted from swampfire:

I had similar weirdness with mine a long time ago, and the culprit was the connector for the relay module under the playfield. I replaced the connector and everything was fine. Of course all of this happened while the game was part of a temp trade. Trades and pinball shows seem to bring out the gremlins.

It’s not the solenoid expander board. The game boots as normal with all drops going up and down.

I unplugged the board and the game didn’t behave normally. The drops didn’t go back down. Plugged it back and the game behaves normally.

Could it be the solenoid driver board? I tested the fuse, and it was weak but registered.

This is so odd... Even the green arrow insert remains lit after locking the ball in the cave. Still digging...

#706 3 months ago

The best advice I can give is to start replacing connectors until the problem goes away. Connectors have been the culprit for at least 75% of my many early SS headaches.

#707 3 months ago
Quoted from swampfire:

The best advice I can give is to start replacing connectors until the problem goes away. Connectors have been the culprit for at least 75% of my many early SS headaches.

Thanks. The solenoid driver board does have one replacement connector. I’ll do the rest.

#708 3 months ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

When locking a ball in the Cave Trap, the game says ‘mermaids captured’ but another ball doesn’t kick out, and the drop targets don’t engage.

I had this problem right after I did my swap. Ended up being the gap in the sink hole switch.

When the ball would drop into the sink hole, it would close the switch just briefly enough to trigger the callout. But the switch was gapped *just* enough that it was open, even with the ball sitting in the sink hole.

Once I gapped the switch so it *remained* closed with the ball sitting in the hole it worked perfectly.

#709 3 months ago

I wonder why they did not put all the solder connections along the top edge of the penis?

Or at least put a secondary set of connections along the edge, allowing a normal .156 connector....

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#710 3 months ago
Quoted from vid1900:

I wonder why they did not put all the solder connections along the top edge of the penis?

Probably becasue the wires wouldn't reach.

#711 3 months ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Probably becasue the wires wouldn't reach.

They all spread out from the two trunks, if you put the connector there, you would have everything in a single location.

At least offer the option, like the aftermarket KISS lamp board does. Would not cost a single penny extra....
image-B17 (resized).jpg

#712 3 months ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

Probably becasue the wires wouldn't reach.

I am thinking it looks more like a planarian, but that aside - sounds like there must be a joke re the wires not reaching?

#713 3 months ago
Quoted from vid1900:

I wonder why they did not put all the solder connections along the top edge of the penis?....

I thought this was a typo, until I saw the mushroom shape. Thanks for that Vid

#714 3 months ago
Quoted from zahner:

...like there must be a joke re the wires not reaching?

Ah a length joke? But no, I thought he meant at the balls not the tip.

#715 3 months ago
Quoted from RobertWinter:

I had this problem right after I did my swap. Ended up being the gap in the sink hole switch.
When the ball would drop into the sink hole, it would close the switch just briefly enough to trigger the callout. But the switch was gapped *just* enough that it was open, even with the ball sitting in the sink hole.
Once I gapped the switch so it *remained* closed with the ball sitting in the hole it worked perfectly.

ZOMG!!! That was it, thank you thank you!!!

Just like you said, that switch’s gap was so tight that it registered but went back to being gapped.

Again, thank you so much!!

Mermaids captured!

#716 3 months ago
Quoted from swampfire:

I thought this was a typo, until I saw the mushroom shape. Thanks for that Vid

Mushrooms have become legalized in 5 states.....
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#717 3 months ago

Is this the right switch for the two saucers? My top one isn't registering the ball when goes in the saucer.

Thanks!

https://www.pinballlife.com/bally-secondary-end-of-stroke-switch-normally-open.html

#718 3 months ago
Quoted from DylanFan71:

Is this the right switch for the two saucers? My top one isn't registering the ball when goes in the saucer.
Thanks!
https://www.pinballlife.com/bally-secondary-end-of-stroke-switch-normally-open.html

That looks right, but you’ll need fish paper or some other border to prevent contact with the metal saucer.

#719 3 months ago
Quoted from Mudflaps:

That looks right, but you’ll need fish paper or some other border to prevent contact with the metal saucer.

Thanks. It's in such an easy spot to work on too.

#720 3 months ago
Quoted from DylanFan71:

Thanks. It's in such an easy spot to work on too.

No doubt! You could use the fish paper from the old switch or fashion your own. Good luck with the soldering, I hope you have a third arm!

#721 3 months ago
Quoted from mjalexan:

Isn’t it the same as other ballys of the era with two hinges on the front then two bolts that go through the bottom of the head and thread into the neck? In any case, I don’t have a clasp. Marco has the over-center style clasp used on Williams games, maybe that would work?

Shit. I meant the hinge brackets. Have any spares?

#724 3 months ago

IU have a Beatiful Bally Fathom. Just ordered the Haggis Mermaid edition to replace it. Thought about it for a couple days but can't resist new and shiny.

#725 3 months ago

I don’t know, man. Will the shiny dimple-proof hardcoat play the same as our Bally tuff-coat playfields? New rules would be cool, but I love my old warhorse of a game.

#726 3 months ago

Not planning on selling it yet, but there's only one way to find out.

#727 3 months ago

Archived after 23 days
1724 views
Sold off Pinside
Machine - For Sale
Fathom Archived
Partially shopped/refurbished “Beautiful Fathom for sale. Works 100%, has Alltek driver, mpu and aux light boards and Rottendog rectifier board. Original playfield, original backglass with no flaking. Lighted fl...”
2021-05-05
Massillon, OH
6,000 (Firm)

1 week later
#728 84 days ago

I’m in.
Only took 15 years

1 week later
#729 73 days ago

We have C-951 and C-952 short and long ringed posts available.

These are from WMS drawings, and have wider hole for #8 posts.

Have additional 'in-between' colors amber and light blue which more matches what was used on early ballys.

Have Transparent: Red, Amber, Orange, Clear, Light Blue, Dark Blue

Now Available

http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=PP

C-9512-ALL (resized).jpg
1 week later
#730 61 days ago
Quoted from PPS:We have C-951 and C-952 short and long ringed posts available.
These are from WMS drawings, and have wider hole for #8 posts.
Have additional 'in-between' colors amber and light blue which more matches what was used on early ballys.
Have Transparent: Red, Amber, Orange, Clear, Light Blue, Dark Blue
Now Available
http://www.planetarypinball.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=PP[quoted image]

Rick are these hollow or solid? Can you provide a picture of the post from the bottom? Thanks!

#731 58 days ago

I had a mate do my playfield swap for me
everything was rebuilt with new parts and some i had to make
and swinks chimed in with some parts https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?type=product&q=swinksc-972-3parts
the pic does not give it justice on how good it looks
thanks Edy Stevens
i just need to do the spinner the decal i have is totally wrong

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#732 58 days ago

Edy's the man. Beautiful.

#733 58 days ago
Quoted from Pinoffski:

I had a mate do my playfield swap for me
everything was rebuilt with new parts and some i had to make
and swinks chimed in with some parts https://www.shapeways.com/marketplace?type=product&q=swinksc-972-3parts
the pic does not give it justice on how good it looks
thanks Edy Stevens
i just need to do the spinner the decal i have is totally wrong [quoted image]

yeah, was really impressed when I saw this in Edy's workshop, enjoy

1 month later
#734 18 days ago
Quoted from cooked71:

How many fathoms have the black trim around the front of the backbox? I assumed mine was just an operator hack, but surprised to see Pinoffski ’s has exactly the same? Was it possibly another “factory” variation like the yellow. And on mine the backbox stand is also matching black. [quoted image][quoted image]

Just must of been the thing to do back in the day .
Definitely original colour under the black.
The hardest decision to do is to sand of the original artwork..

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2 weeks later
#735 4 days ago

Just joined the club today, much happiness.

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#736 3 days ago

Why s the backglass all blue?

#737 3 days ago
Quoted from punkin:

Why s the backglass all blue?

good question. It has been given an led kit, the backglass appears to be all a cool white, but maybe that's giving it that overtone. I appears to be an original glass. I don't have any other bulbs to swap in of that style, but will probably add some on my next order.

#738 3 days ago

I have to do the led replacement still yet, but more white shows through with incandescent, that's for sure.

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#739 3 days ago

I'm a believer of incandescent butbs in older pins, but I suppose some machines pop better with LED's. Fathom would be one of them, I think. Any recommendations for where you have installed LED's in Fathom, and what color/shades they are, and pics to go along with your results? Thanks.

#740 3 days ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

Just joined the club today, much happiness.

Congrats, you're miles ahead of those waiting on the remake.

#741 3 days ago

I'm waiting on the remake and playing the original in the meantime.

#742 3 days ago

I found a bag of incandescent bulbs in all the stuff the seller gave me and swapped the backglass out. gone is the blue everything, not nearly as bright, but much better colors. I will be putting in comet leds when I next order some, the question is sunlight or warm white, definitely not the cool white this kit came with.

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#743 3 days ago

Warm white looks ok, but I stilling think the incandescents look better

#744 3 days ago

Before and after, comet frosted warm whites.

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#745 3 days ago
Quoted from punkin:

Before and after, comet frosted warm whites.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

colors look good to me, but looks a little bright, are those 1SMD or 2SMD? pictures don't always work great for lights, does it look brighter in person, what are your impressions?

#746 2 days ago
Quoted from PAIDGE:

Like this?
[quoted image]

So are these actually available to purchase anywhere? My front supports are missing the peg to support the playfield.

Alternatively has anyone swapped in a slide mechanism to allow easier ability to work on the bottom side? I'm thinking something like https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-slide-pivot-support-bracket-right.html and the associated parts seen at the bottom of that page. Purists would be outraged, but I think it would make life much easier after having to adjust the switches on the blue inline bank (none of either inline bank drops switches would register, making multi-ball impossible, crazy).

#747 2 days ago

So, the worst piece of my Fathom. The story from the guy I bought it from is the owner before him lost the keys and had to drill out the lock, well he didn't drill the lock, he hacked the cabinet and attempted to patch up the hole. Not entirely sure what I'm going to do yet as I don't have any of the inner lock mechanism and don't really need it at home, so may just clean it all up, smooth it out and paint it to match.

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#748 2 days ago

God, that looks like he did it with an axe.

Quoted from BorgDog:

colors look good to me, but looks a little bright, are those 1SMD or 2SMD? pictures don't always work great for lights, does it look brighter in person, what are your impressions?

2smd. It looks much brighter in person than it did, but not as much as the pixs show.

It's also bluer, but not nearly like the original pic that started me off of the other one. The flesh tones are still flesh coloured, but the tails are quite blue.

#749 14 hours ago
Quoted from BorgDog:

So, the worst piece of my Fathom. The story from the guy I bought it from is the owner before him lost the keys and had to drill out the lock, well he didn't drill the lock, he hacked the cabinet and attempted to patch up the hole. Not entirely sure what I'm going to do yet as I don't have any of the inner lock mechanism and don't really need it at home, so may just clean it all up, smooth it out and paint it to match.
[quoted image][quoted image]

That is a shame. The OEM paint looks good to. Personally I would repair it even if you don’t have the parts.

There are 749 posts in this topic. You are on page 15 of 15.

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