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(Topic ID: 65944)

Fathom Owners Club & Restorations Thread Fans Are Also Welcome


By Hellfire

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 599 posts
  • 165 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 10 days ago by cooked71
  • Topic is favorited by 66 Pinsiders

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There are 599 posts in this topic. You are on page 12 of 12.
#551 3 months ago

More goodies I am selling:

Archived after 46 days
91 views
Not sold
Parts - For Sale
New “Two custom plastics to replace the most commonly broken ones at the flippers. The originals are only .100" thick. These custom replacements are .170" thick.... 70% thicker! Also ha...”
2020-07-08
San Jose, CA
60 (Firm)

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#552 3 months ago

i am in the club

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2 weeks later
#553 84 days ago
Quoted from WonderMellon:

Just joined the club yesterday. A definite players game, but I am OK with that for now. The machine is almost 100% playable. The issue I am having is with the 3x green drop target. The solenoid to reset the bank in the up position is pushing the 3x target too high and the corner of the pivot arm is coming out of the slot. I tried lifting the 4x and 5x targets and they seem to have a stop the prevents them from being pushed too high. I do not see a physical stop though.
All 3 drop targets seem to be connected the same way to the arm and the 3x doesn’t seem any more “sloppy” than the others.
Here are 2 pictures. The first showing the target higher then the other 2 and the second picture showing the corner of the drop target arm out of the slot in the bank.
Is this common? Is there something I can do to prevent it?[quoted image][quoted image]

Not sure if you ever got an answer to your problem. I had targets that kept going too high. Problem was broken nut and spring brackets as shown on the attached picture. I made new ones and solved the problem.

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#554 84 days ago

Those are hard to source. Good business if you have the ability to produce.

#555 84 days ago

jethrop nhpolarbear

Sorry, I thought I had replied a long time ago.

I found a site that had some info on recreating these. Went to Home Depot and grabbed some angle aluminum. A saws all with a metal blade, a grinder with a thin disk, and a small tap-and-die allowed me to create a few. I admit they are butt ugly, but it works. My Farhom is working 100% now!

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#556 83 days ago
Quoted from WonderMellon:

A saws all with a metal blade, a grinder with a thin disk, and a small tap-and-die allowed me to create a few.

Great! So you also figured out that was the bad part causing the problem. I found a source in Europe producing replacement parts for $20 each. Ouch. They looked nice, but I didn't want to spend $60 plus shipping for 3 little parts you don't see. Glad you got your game working again too.

#558 77 days ago

Found these pics I thought worth sharing from 2014 buying Fathom off a dealer. He let me pick the best bits from the two games to put into the one I bought. Should've grabbed them both looking back.

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1 week later
#559 67 days ago

What are you guys doing about replacing the little fish plastics in the ball return lane? They have stainless steel posts underneath that are “riveted” to the plastic (ie. The neck is flanged). Are you reusing the original posts or getting new ones?

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#560 67 days ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Are you reusing the original posts or getting new ones?

You have to re-use the old ones - give them a polish if they need it.
Unless you found a source, nobodys selling brand new metal bell posts.

#561 67 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

You have to re-use the old ones - give them a polish if they need it.
Unless you found a source, nobodys selling brand new metal bell posts.

Do you try and “rivet” them back in the new plastic or just leave them sitting in top?

#562 67 days ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Do you try and “rivet” them back in the new plastic or just leave them sitting in top?

To remove the bell post, stick a hot soldering iron tip into the "rivet" area and hold it there for 10 seconds. The post will then just slide right out as the plastic softens.

Then find a drill bit that fits in the bell post rivet hole, use an auto lug crimper or just a pair of pliers to squeeze the rivet flange against the drill bit to remove the flange so you can slide the bell post into the new plastic.

#563 67 days ago

Does anyone have pictures of Shay's new Fathom reproduction backglass?

#564 67 days ago
Quoted from Pinballer73:

Does anyone have pictures of Shay's new Farhom reproduction backglass?

I have an unused repro that I purchased a few years back.Never installed it . No lift channel or trim.Better off with someone who can use it.

#565 67 days ago
Quoted from chalkup8:

I have an unused repro that I purchased a few years back.Never installed it . No lift channel or trim.Better off with someone who can use it.

Who reproduced the backglass you have?

#566 67 days ago
Quoted from Pinballer73:

Who reproduced the backglass you have?

I’m unsure about that.
Bought from Bay Area Amusements in 2016.Which is now merged with PPS I see.

#567 67 days ago

Ah ok, can you please post a few photos?

#568 67 days ago
Quoted from cooked71:

What are you guys doing about replacing the little fish plastics in the ball return lane? They have stainless steel posts underneath that are “riveted” to the plastic (ie. The neck is flanged). Are you reusing the original posts or getting new ones?
[quoted image]

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fathom-owners-club/page/12#post-5735767
I made new plastics and used aluminum spacers (which you don't see).

#569 66 days ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Do you try and “rivet” them back in the new plastic or just leave them sitting in top?

If you have a "dapping punch" available - something around 8mm diameter - set the two posts (with plastic sitting on the posts) on a hard surface, then gently whack the top of the post with the punch & hammer to re-expand / flare the top of the post onto the surface of the plastic. Works great, and prevents the plastic from wobbling as the ball tracks down it to the flippers.

There's a serviceable set of punches on Amazon for not a lot of money; if you work on classic Bally games you'll find these handy when replacing plastics on the smaller size bell posts: amazon.com link »

#570 61 days ago

My Fathom has a mostly rubber grommets holding down the plastics. Is this stock and where do you get them?

#571 61 days ago
Quoted from cooked71:

My Fathom has a mostly rubber grommets holding down the plastics. Is this stock and where do you get them?

Pinball resource

#572 61 days ago

Yes, Pinball Resource. Item: Post cap (RIN-PC)
http://www.pbresource.com/Rubberprc.html

2 weeks later
#573 45 days ago

Does anyone in here have or know where to find the metal playfield hinge/ support that bolts to the side of the cabinet and allows the playfield to swing up? I could use a whole set and can’t seem to find them anywhere.

#575 44 days ago
Quoted from Gotpins:

Does anyone in here have or know where to find the metal playfield hinge/ support that bolts to the side of the cabinet and allows the playfield to swing up? I could use a whole set and can’t seem to find them anywhere.

You need to find a parted-out old school Bally game to get those parts.

#576 43 days ago
Quoted from Gotpins:

Does anyone in here have or know where to find the metal playfield hinge/ support that bolts to the side of the cabinet and allows the playfield to swing up? I could use a whole set and can’t seem to find them anywhere.

I have a friend who reproduce it... i just contact him.

#577 43 days ago
Quoted from Gotpins:

Does anyone in here have or know where to find the metal playfield hinge/ support that bolts to the side of the cabinet and allows the playfield to swing up? I could use a whole set and can’t seem to find them anywhere.

Like this?

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#578 43 days ago
Quoted from PAIDGE:

Like this?
[quoted image]

I’d be interested in a couple sets too.

#579 43 days ago
Quoted from PAIDGE:

Like this?
[quoted image]

Um, yes, exactly like that! Where can I find me a set?!

#580 43 days ago
Quoted from PAIDGE:

Like this?
[quoted image]

Me too!! About to start a full Fathom resto and need a set myself!

2 weeks later
#581 28 days ago

I'm making use of an old Fathom PF donated from a fellow pinsider... awesomely fun project!

https://www.instagram.com/p/CFe_0fgncgW/?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet

Also have a matching amp in progress to go with it.

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#582 28 days ago
Quoted from roar:

I'm making use of an old Fathom PF donated from a fellow pinsider... awesomely fun project!

That is way too cool!!!!!

#583 24 days ago

I'm having a weird issue with my Fathom that I just rebuilt. Here's the overview -

All new Alltek boards. Everything tests properly including all the switches and solenoids.

Here's what happens. If I lock a ball in the green lagoon, the green inline drops reset to the up position and another ball is served into the shooter lane. This is the expected behavior.

Now if I lock a ball into the top blue lagoon, the game acknowledges it by playing "Diver Captured", but the blue inline drops never reset and another ball is never served. The game just sits there. I've also verified that switch works by dropping a ball into the saucer during the diagnostics.

I haven't put the original CPU back in to see if that's the problem as the game has been apart for *many* years and I'm not exactly sure that board functions anyway.

Any ideas?

#584 24 days ago
Quoted from RobertWinter:

The game just sits there. I've also verified that switch works by dropping a ball into the saucer during the diagnostics.

I had a similar issue a while back where after a ball was captured the game froze and no ball was served. Traced it to a bad ball switch in the outhole.

#585 24 days ago
Quoted from JethroP:

I had a similar issue a while back where after a ball was captured the game froze and no ball was served. Traced it to a bad ball switch in the outhole.

I'll check that out. Thanks for the tip.

BTW, can someone post a picture of the two switches to the left of the outhole switch? I'm particularly interested in how the wireforms on those switches are bent/positioned.

#586 23 days ago
Quoted from JethroP:

I had a similar issue a while back where after a ball was captured the game froze and no ball was served. Traced it to a bad ball switch in the outhole.

That's what she said...

#587 23 days ago
Quoted from JethroP:

I had a similar issue a while back where after a ball was captured the game froze and no ball was served. Traced it to a bad ball switch in the outhole.

This. I read somewhere that trough switch errors are known to create havoc on Bally early multiball games. Had similar issues on mine and was a bad trough switch.

#588 23 days ago
Quoted from RobertWinter:

I'll check that out. Thanks for the tip.

As I recall, my bad switch was the one that would "read" the second ball in the outhole. Determined it was bad checking its continuity. I replaced it with an unused, identical switch from the coin mech. I did swap out the wire form as the coin mech was a different shape than the one in the outhole. I later opened the defective switch and cleaned the contacts with a piece of paper, and it is now repaired.

Not sure the wire forms on my switches are factory spec. You just need to bend them (if necessary) to "read" the ball when it comes to rest in the outhole. You can hear the switch click with it opens and closes.

Speaking of wire forms, they are so easy to contact with your hand when lifting the playfield, resulting in bent and/binding switches. Careful when lifting the playfield.

Hope you report back your findings.

#589 22 days ago
Quoted from JethroP:

Hope you report back your findings.

It may be a while before I get back to it but will definitely report my progress once I do.

#590 22 days ago

So, the perennial pinball dilemma - clear coated re-stenciled cab or keep the original art which is in decent condition. Some planking but colours good. No major damage. No touch ups. Only problem is the back box surround at the front has been painted with a darker navy, which I could repaint.

I’ve got a brand new CPr to go in and will polish/restore all pf parts. Which is making me lean to the full cabinet restore also.

But I still kind of like the patina of an old original cab.

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#591 22 days ago
Quoted from cooked71:

clear coated re-stenciled cab or keep the original art

Are you kidding??? That cabinet looks great! The backbox surround repaint, ok, but I wouldn't touch the rest of it.

#592 22 days ago
Quoted from JethroP:

Are you kidding??? That cabinet looks great! The backbox surround repaint, ok, but I wouldn't touch the rest of it.

Yeh, thats why I posted. I think i would feel wrong sanding off all that nice original art.

Do you guys think its possible to match the old colour on the backbox surround without it looking stupid? Any tips on this?

#593 22 days ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Do you guys think its possible to match the old colour

Sure...most paint supply stores have color samples (we call them paint chips) you can bring home to compare/match what you want, then have the store mix up a pint of the matched color.

#594 22 days ago

No way I would be repainting that cabinet - that looks pretty good. Yeah, as said just the surround painted will make it look so much better.

You could try this formula for that particular colour. I think it's pretty good match for the surround, I think it was a computer match from a sample, can't remember as it was years ago - certainly better than the current colour.

Think it might be with a blue base colour.

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#595 22 days ago
Quoted from Joydivision:

No way I would be repainting that cabinet - that looks pretty good. Yeah, as said just the surround painted will make it look so much better.
You could try this formula for that particular colour. I think it's pretty good match for the surround, I think it was a computer match from a sample, can't remember as it was years ago - certainly better than the current colour.
Think it might be with a blue base colour.
[quoted image][quoted image]

I know that it sais Satin on the tin, but would it be better to use a matt paint to match the old existing paint? And oil based? Sprayed is better?

#596 22 days ago
Quoted from cooked71:

I know that it sais Satin on the tin, but would it be better to use a matt paint to match the old existing paint? And oil based? Sprayed is better?

I did this about 20 years ago! satin matched better as the cab had a satin finish more than matt in my case. I brushed the acrylic Duraguard on, but not as good as spraying would be of course - all I could do at the time. Can't advise on finish whether oil or acrylic is better.

#597 20 days ago
Quoted from cooked71:

So, the perennial pinball dilemma - clear coated re-stenciled cab or keep the original art which is in decent condition. Some planking but colours good. No major damage. No touch ups. Only problem is the back box surround at the front has been painted with a darker navy, which I could repaint.
I’ve got a brand new CPr to go in and will polish/restore all pf parts. Which is making me lean to the full cabinet restore also.
But I still kind of like the patina of an old original cab.
[quoted image]

What else is in the collection? As a stand-alone pin or one surrounded by others in similar shape I’d probably leave it alone, looks solid to me. If it’s not a keeper I’d leave it 100% alone as the labour and cost to redo it won’t be recouped... play the heck out of it and leave it be

#598 18 days ago
Quoted from RobertWinter:

I'm having a weird issue with my Fathom that I just rebuilt. Here's the overview -
All new Alltek boards. Everything tests properly including all the switches and solenoids.
Here's what happens. If I lock a ball in the green lagoon, the green inline drops reset to the up position and another ball is served into the shooter lane. This is the expected behavior.
Now if I lock a ball into the top blue lagoon, the game acknowledges it by playing "Diver Captured", but the blue inline drops never reset and another ball is never served. The game just sits there. I've also verified that switch works by dropping a ball into the saucer during the diagnostics.
I haven't put the original CPU back in to see if that's the problem as the game has been apart for *many* years and I'm not exactly sure that board functions anyway.
Any ideas?

SOLVED! Here's what I did.

First I tested all the trough switches. I was pretty sure they were good but wanted to verify. No problems.

Started a game and shot a ball into the top sink hole. "Diver Captured" played but the inlines never reset. Arg! I reset the game and tried the green lagoon - ball in the sink hole, sound played, inlines reset as they should. It was then that I noticed the green arrow to the lagoon was off. Figured that was probably normal as I'm not real familiar with the game. Shoot the first two inlines, green arrow flashes, shoot the third inline and the ball is released. Normal.

I went back to the blue lagoon. Shoot the ball into the sink hole, sound is played, inlines don't reset. And HERE is where I figured it all out. I noticed that the blue arrow was still ON. So I reset the game, started a game, but this time I held down the blue sink hole switch with my finger. Sound triggered, inlines reset and another balll was served. Yes!

Apparently the blue sink hole switch was gapped just enough that the switch would close very briefly when the ball dropped onto it but open immediately after. So I gapped the switch properly and now the game is 100%!

1 week later
#599 10 days ago

Anyone got a template of the Bally backbox back with the vent holes? Want to replace mine and just thought I’d check if anyone has a cad or something I can give direct to the cabinet maker.

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