First off, if you are saying you lubed the sticky pop bumpers and drop targets, undo that *immediately*. The solenoids and mechanisms do not require lube. Clean them and maybe replace the plastic coil sleeves, but do-not-use-lubricant.

That is a tilt switch at the bottom of the playfield.

When a tilt switch is activated, it will stop the game from playing and the TILT light comes on. When the ball drains it should go away and advance to the next ball. If the ball is in the outhole at the bottom of the game and the TILT light is still on, look to see if that switch is still activated or look for another activated tilt switch such as the tilt bob on the lower left of the cabinet. For example, the tilt bob should not be touching the ring.

Quick clarification: That particular switch when opened (the switch leafs normally should be touching) will end the entire game if they separate and you will see "GAME OVER" on the backglass and need to start a new game.

Yes, the one on the coin door should be closed (contacts touching).

Yes, the one on the lower playfield should also be closed. Once it is activated (the contacts separate) it will register GAME OVER and TILT on the backbox. As you move those switch leafs on that lower tilt switch (separating the contacts), the GAME OVER light will disappear but the TILT light will stay on.

Place the ball in the outhole and start a new game. (Of course make sure you have credits). If that does not clear everything then there is another issue.

You mentioned earlier that you located tilt switches, filed contacts and checked gaps. Keep in mind when switches are being cleaned it is important that their orientation remain the same. If they are supposed to be normally closed, make sure they do not become normally open and vice versa.

that one is the "bounce switch" on the schematic ... if it's open, a bunch of stuff won't work.

Right.

I went back and read what the OP posted. The OP said in the photo it "was closed" and when *it was opened* the GAME OVER light went away. I now wonder if that meant the switch was now permanently open. That could explain the problem.

To the OP: that particular switch should be closed with the contacts touching at all times. When they separate, even for a brief moment, the TILT and GAME OVER lights activate. The switch should resume its position of being CLOSED (contacts touching). Now if the contacts are opened again, as I posted, above, the GAME OVER light goes away but the TILT light stays on.

If those contacts on that particular switch are permanently open, as baldtwit correctly states, a bunch of stuff won't work.

>>Is AX and BX supposed to be sitting at an angle like the picture shows?>>
Normal.

First game I ever fixed was a multi player Gtb like this, 40 years ago and I did *everything* wrong like lubing the solenoids and nylon parts that don't need lube. Fortunately I got is working great but I'd hate to be the guy who bought it from me when all that got dirty and gummy. XD

Hole score is 1000 + 1000 for each letter of ABC completed. The holes themselves are always lit up and they should award the 1000s all the time. The hole relay will pull in and award the 1000s based on the ABC relays (on the relay bank under the playfield) and a separate score motor switch for each 1000. If you aren't getting ANY points at all even with ABC completed, might be an issue with a switch(es) in the hole relay that is dirty/overgapped.

The scoring for the right and left holes involves some trip relays - 1B, 2B, 3B and 4B, and a switch on the G relay. In the snippet below, you can see how all those trip switches work with the score motor switches to determine how many pulses to the L relay (1000 pt relay) you get. If you aren't getting any scoring at all, I'd think it would be something common to all of the switches, which looks like the G relay switch. (The Motor 1A switch feeds other scoring features, so I'm going to assume it's working, since you don't mention other scoring problems.)

Fast Draw kickout hole (resized).JPG

Does your G relay pull in when a ball falls into either the right or left hole? If so, you need to look at that particular switch on the G relay (MAR-OR and GR-WH-RED wires) to see if it's clean and closing. If the G relay isn't energizing, then you need to figure out why that is.

If your G relay isn't energizing when a ball goes into the right or left hole, this is the circuit that should energize it. The lower part of the circuit with the G switch in series with the Motor 2B switch, is the hold circuit for the G relay.

Fast Draw G relay (resized).JPG

Sounded like G (hole relay) is working as he said the holes are 'working' but just not scoring.

If his G relay is pulling in, then I'd suspect that G switch in the first snippet.

I verify the stepper units can step/reset correctly, clean the contact plates on them if they look cruddy. If the plug pins have black crud on them, clean that off.

if you want to check anything else, you can do a quick snug-down check on the switch stack screws and manually operate the relays visually looking for switches that don't have good overtravel.

then turn it on and start dealing with issues.

I wouldn't run around cleaning all the switches ... isn't necessary and not much fun.

The 1000 Point relay (L) is in the back box next to the M and N relays

G relay is pulling in, but same advice as above, check/clean any switches in G relay that are normally open when the relay is not energized.

Did you check the Motor 2C switch that's in the snippet in post #16?

Yeah that would kill both the 'fixed' 1000 points as well as all of the ABC 1000s.

Is it *consistently* only every third time? I guess I could see 2C just barely closing, and given the motor has three scoring cycles per full revolution maybe only one cog is able to close it just enough to make contact. The tolerance of the three cogs' positions is never going to be exact.

What "might" help narrow it down is making a list of the following:

1. With no rollovers engaged, what scoring happens in the left and right hole. As frenchmarky says, is it consistent?
2. With only the A rollover engaged, what scoring happens in the holes. Again, consistent or not?
3. With only the B rollover engaged, what scoring happens in the holes.
4. With only the C rollover engaged, what scoring happens in the holes.

Let's start with that: Scoring results when only 1 rollover is engaged at a time.

They're not gold-plated. I use either a flexi-stick and clean with alcohol afterwards to remove grit, or if there's room, I prefer using a dremel tool with a steel brush dipped in alcohol. I suppose everyone here will have their preference. You just want to end up with a clean, smooth-ish surface that makes good electrical contact.

Sometimes on those large high-current contacts, I'll use a small file to re-surface the contact if they're severely burned or pitted, but usually I get by with the flexi-stick and dremel.

That's the idea, though there's a new flexi-stick that leaves a lot of grit behind, so make sure you clean it with alcohol after using the stick.

Those are the original floating mylar discs, most people don't like them because they let dirt get under there but I still like to replace worn out ones with new ones for my low-play use at home. You can replace with regular stick-on clear or colored mylar circles from various pinball sources.

I like the clear adhesive-backed mylar discs for under the pops because, as frenchmarky said, dirt does accumulate under the floating ones which will hasten the wear on the pf. But whatever you use, you need something under there - there's just too much wear and tear under there from the violence of the ball being pushed out by the ring.

I also use some small mylar squares to protect the pf where the ball lands when it's kicked out of the right and left holes. The pf is almost always worn to the wood in those 2 spots...wax won't be enough.

Mine has those two spots too, haven't put my new playfield in yet because I'm lazy. Besides I've had the game since the 80s, I literally never notice those wear spots anyway. It's as if they were part of the original artwork. X D

Everyone's different - those 2 spots of bare wood in the yellow "Special" area drove me crazy, so I repainted them and then covered them with mylar. I can sleep at night, now. Possibly, I'm a little bit anal-retentive....just possibly.

I'd like to see the op get that hole scoring right, though.

This is how I got started, it's not difficult nor expensive for most playfield paint touch ups.

There are lots of guides out there for doing this work. It's not hard and totally reversible if the paint match isn't perfect. Acrylic paint from a local craft store and, I can't stress enough, very small brushes.

I also have a So'76 and would highly recommend putting a small piece of mylar on the wear spot from the kick out. It will continue to damage the playfield and paint in the long run.

My first attempt was with my Cleopatra many years ago. The touch-ups have held up fine with just a coat of wax, no need to clear coat it either if it's a home use pin. And now that I've done a couple more playfield touch ups the Cleo is gonna get serious a restoration in the near future.

When I purchased the Cleo someone had previously touched up the playfield. I was able to remove that and repaint the areas for a better color match.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/have-an-em-pin-ready-for-the-dumpster/page/2

I drew this up to help you understand how the scoring is supposed to work for the kickout holes. Since you're not getting any scoring now, I'd probably start troubleshooting at the beginning. When the ball goes into either kickout hole, does the G relay energize? If so, is the G switch in this drawing (use the wire colors to identify it) closing? If not, we'll have to figure out why.

Do you have a jumper wire and know how they're used to troubleshoot circuits like this?

Fast Draw kickout hole (resized).JPG