(Topic ID: 231937)

Fair value of STTNG

By Warhawk85T

5 years ago


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  • 22 posts
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  • Latest reply 5 years ago by ccbiggsoo7
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#1 5 years ago

Hey everyone!

I come to you in need of your expertise. I currently have a STTNG sitting in my kitchen that I have been tinkering with for my uncle. I would like to buy this machine, but I want to make sure that I pay a fair amount both to my family and for me. Any wisdom on market value is greatly appreciated.

Here is a little about said machine-

-The body seems to be in good or better shape. (I'm not an expert on what to look for, but as far as dings and imperfections, it has very few.)

-The back glass looks to be in very good shape as well. There are one or two tiny imperfections around Worf's uniform.

-Playfield shows normal use. A good cleaning will probably go a long way. The Neutral zone shows some edge wear. (I have a protector for it to install)

-Ship models and cannons are solid. The Borg ship and the cannons may be a little color shifted from age. I will need to consult with what the original colors should be.

-One of the plastics on the left side has a field repair of electrical tape wrap. Guessing it is broken underneath

-It turns on and boots up (most of the time)

-Once powered up, the diagnostic does reveal a few things. I will note them when I get back home and repeat what it finds. (traveling for work currently)

-It begins staging balls, but never stops. This is probably at least because of the below reasons, maybe more

-Upper diverter has a wire broken free from the solder. If memory serves it is the purple wire with a green stripe. Is this the tieback???

-Lower diverter solenoid is stuck engaged. It feels solid as a rock and I can't seem to move it. Currently I have it unplugged, since I was afraid it would burn up otherwise

-Trough has intermittent connection issues with the opto boards. Looks like the pin connectors are shot. I can jiggle them and power will be restored to the optos.

-Sometimes after it sits on for a few minutes it will shutoff and reset on it's own. Sometimes when it does this, it doesn't boot back up. (The LEDs on the board don't do what they are supposed to do. i.e. stay on or continue blinking, etc...)

-The DMD display seems to work fine. It has had a few issues of one half of it acting up. Let me know if I need to explain more on this.

I actually started working on this thing a few years ago to fix problems it had then. (before I was planning on buying it) Here is what I have purchased or installed so far-

-I have all new plastics (not installed yet)

-Neutral Guard (not installed yet)

-16 Opto circuit board

-Rubber kit (not installed yet)

-Updated design trough opto emitter and receiver set

-Full LED kit from Cointaker, non-ghosting (I would change a few lamps here and there when I had time over at my uncle's house, so this is a work in progress)

With all that said. I feel like it is a solid game overall, but it sounds like it may need some work. From what I have gathered on other STTNG topics on here, I probably need to look into the tieback wire fix/update. (Which may have cause the one solenoid to lock up?) Once that is complete, I probably need to check if any other damage was done from the tieback issue?

I will be home with the machine for a solid week, over the Christmas break. Feel free to request any pics or places for me to report back what condition they appear to be in.

Thanks in advance for any and all help!!!

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#2 5 years ago

$3500 seems reasonable given it’s functional state.

Don’t ruin it with non ghosting LEDs. If you are going to LED it, use regular LEDs and purchase the two Herg boards to modulate the pulses to the LEDs to replicate the analog on-off action of incandescents.

Also reseat the ribbon cables and power connectors on your boards. Might resolve some of your reset issues.

Inspect the GI connectors at the power board for burnt connectors as well.

It’s a fun game to troubleshoot. Once you dial it in it’s awesome.

#3 5 years ago
Quoted from holminone:

$3500 seems reasonable given it’s functional state.
Don’t ruin it with non ghosting LEDs. If you are going to LED it, use regular LEDs and purchase the two Herg boards to modulate the pulses to the LEDs to replicate the analog on-off action of incandescents.
Also reseat the ribbon cables and power connectors on your boards. Might resolve some of your reset issues.
Inspect the GI connectors at the power board for burnt connectors as well.
It’s a fun game to troubleshoot. Once you dial it in it’s awesome.

This is awesome advice! Thank you!!!

I wondered about the non ghosting LEDs vs standard. A while back, I think I was lurking and following the development of the new boards that would replicate how the incandescent lamps originally worked... especially the dimming feature for the shields. Being in the commercial and industrial side of lighting, I have seen similar things crop up on our side, when we first started upgrading restaurants, etc to LED. From our end, the forward phase or triac style dimmers (a $20 dimmer) was just too hard on the drivers of our LED products. We found out that if we used ELV or reverse phase style dimming (a $60), we eliminated the "chatter" or "strobing" effects that LED lamps or fixtures could have on dimming circuits. This is all very fascinating to me how the pinball guys have had to also critically think and research on how to make LED work the best.

Thanks again!

#4 5 years ago

. Anytime. But you sparked my interest on an unrelated topic. I have a “magnetic” style dimmer controlling a transformer that’s powering a pretty high end LED strip for an indirect lighting application in my house. But it strobes. Is there a home solution to boost the frequency or enable a more continuous light output from a wall mounted lumarlon dimmer switch?

Also, upgrade your back box speakers and install an external powered sub with crossover and volume controls. It transforms the game. Borg multiball and warp factor 9 mode remain mind blowing after 2000 plays. I recently put in PDI glass on mine and it’s like playing without glass on minus the noise.

The game is a work of modern art. My daughter who is 16 loves it. “It’s so retro!”

#5 5 years ago
Quoted from holminone:

$3500 seems reasonable given it’s functional state.
Don’t ruin it with non ghosting LEDs. If you are going to LED it, use regular LEDs and purchase the two Herg boards to modulate the pulses to the LEDs to replicate the analog on-off action of incandescents.
Also reseat the ribbon cables and power connectors on your boards. Might resolve some of your reset issues.
Inspect the GI connectors at the power board for burnt connectors as well.
It’s a fun game to troubleshoot. Once you dial it in it’s awesome.

Agreed, and I just sold one. 3500 seems fair and you are going to spend a lot of time troubleshooting and buying miscellaneous parts. It will be SO worth it though if you just stick with it.

#6 5 years ago

I bought a fully working one here with a Color DMD, LED's and LED OCD board for $4300 with nice cosmetics. It was sitting for a few days on the Marketplace until I couldn't resist anymore. Glad Resistance was futile, I really like having it in my collection.

Remember this game is an opto nightmare and can be very sensitive. It seems like you have a coil locked up, possible display problems, board reset issues, trough boards ($50 if memory serves) and opto issues. (Balls are kicking out trying to stage because it needs to see them in the various stages places and if an opto is out it doesn't "see" it).

Check the head & body for scuffs, neutral zone wear is common along with the blue inserts being scratchy. Check for cracked ramps (also fairly common) they are available but not cheap ($321 + shipping)

Personally I would want to be closer to 3G with $3500 being top end and only buy the game if you can do the work.

#7 5 years ago

My first reaction was going to be $4,000 but now that I've read the posts of people more knowledgeable than myself I would say $3,000-$3,500 is a fair bet.

#8 5 years ago

Take some clear pics with the glass off so we can see the condition of cab and playfield.

#9 5 years ago

3k tops. Sttng is a great game, a great p.i.t.a. Big, heavy, but incredible fun when everything works. I’m envious actually.

#10 5 years ago
Quoted from holminone:

. Anytime. But you sparked my interest on an unrelated topic. I have a “magnetic” style dimmer controlling a transformer that’s powering a pretty high end LED strip for an indirect lighting application in my house. But it strobes. Is there a home solution to boost the frequency or enable a more continuous light output from a wall mounted lumarlon dimmer switch?

I think this might be something that can be rectified. I will PM you for some more details.

#11 5 years ago
Quoted from onemoresean:

Take some clear pics with the glass off so we can see the condition of cab and playfield.

Will do. I will be back in town all week for Christmas, and I am planning on tinkering some on it. I'll make sure that I charge up my good camera and get some good photos.

Kind regards,

#12 5 years ago

When you buy this game, YOU MUST BE SURE TO DO THE TIEBACK MOD.

That is all.

#13 5 years ago

What is the tieback mod?

#14 5 years ago

Game is probably worth around $3500-$4000 but if he is your uncle you need to get that 'family discount' . He should be a cool uncle and hook a brother(nephew) up with a $2500 STTNG-just my opinion (;

#15 5 years ago
Quoted from donjagra:

What is the tieback mod?

http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Star_Trek:_The_Next_Generation#Diode_.22Tie_Back.22_missing_causes_8-Driver_Board_transistor_to_fail

Basically you add constant power to the transistor so your coils don't lock on and the transistor fails.

#16 5 years ago

A majority of your problems will be fixed if you resolder that wire, remove the subway underneath (looks intimidating but is easy) and clean and regrease the diverters.

#17 5 years ago
Quoted from Djshakes:

A majority of your problems will be fixed if you resolder that wire, remove the subway underneath (looks intimidating but is easy) and clean and regrease the diverters.

Also buy a new ribbon cable. 4 connector.

#18 5 years ago
Quoted from onemoresean:

Take some clear pics with the glass off so we can see the condition of cab and playfield.

Sorry for the delay in getting these. Been a hectic schedule for the holidays. Attached some of the pics I took with my better camera. Let me know if you want me to take more specific pics (or better ones).

Just an update on this machine since I originally posted-

I had the upper and lower subway diverters unhooked, since I suspected one was melted. I unhooked the melted one and the other seemed to work ok. I set the game to think that the right cannon was broken, but after playing a few days of games, I smelled (and saw) smoke. The lower diverter smoked itself too. So, now I have unhooked the plug in connection for these two coils and set the game to think both right and left cannons are broken. The game plays, since it isn't trying to load either cannon now.

Also, in the solenoid tests, I can get the top drop target to lower, but it does nothing for the raise test. This naturally makes the "lock ball" feature wonky, since the drop target is always down. The game also says to test the switch for that target. I reconnected the broken connection (that is shown in the photo), but it still doesn't respond.

I probably won't be making any parts repairs yet, but a summary of what I will need to spend will help me with how much this thing is worth. (on top of everyone else's suggestions)

Thanks

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#19 5 years ago

Left ramp is busted pretty badly, can't see the right one too well. They are available but not cheap.

#20 5 years ago

Location, location, location.
I just paid 5k for a working one. Your cab seems to be in really nice condition, so does the playfield except for the couple items that have been pointed out.
Here in SoCal it would probably still fetch 4k. This said, being it is your uncle, I would say 3k family price

#21 5 years ago

It really looks like this machine needs the tieback mod and will work well after that. Mine was doing the same thing - burning out the coils and the resistors on the 8-driver board. Just get a new 8-driver for $50, do the tieback, and I'm thinking a lot of your issues will be solved.

#22 5 years ago

they sell for 4 to 4500 quite often, so being family and it needs lots of work, id say 3k tops, its just a coffee table right now.

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