What's the symptoms so far?
Note, the first blip of flashes doesn't count.
(Or does it? Now I'm doubting myself.)
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What's the symptoms so far?
Note, the first blip of flashes doesn't count.
(Or does it? Now I'm doubting myself.)
John,
So does the diagnostic LED blink? How many?
You got a manual? (Download from IPDB if not... both manual & then schematics too)
https://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=760
The flippers are both energized by the large relay in the backbox on the SDB. That relay is controlled by transistor Q15 on the SDB.
Does that relay click closed if you can do the solenoid diagnostics test via the test button on the inside coin door?
Have you removed the boards and reflowed the solder on all the connectors? This is key... solves many problems.
Also, there is a bulletproofing guide for both the power rectifier board & the solenoid drivers board, to improve grounds/reliability.
Here's the SDB upgrade link: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Bally/Stern#Solenoid_Driver_Upgrades
Normally, I buy the Bally solenoid rebuild kit from Ed @ Great Plaines Electronics, but he's out of stock. However, you can still use his values for reference ordering from Mouser or Newark (o whomever is your electronics go-to).
https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=BALLY-P22E-KIT
Ed also normally has all the connectors & headers to repair/bulletproof the boards.
And actually, it's a "flipper enable" relay, that is held closed by Q15 (also get from Ed @ GPE). Sometimes you can steal an unused transistor elsewhere on the board. There's a great matrix chart that shows which unused trans you could move: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Transistor_Mapping_for_Bally_Games
Beyond voltages found in the manuals (and on the various PinWiki pages... that's all you generally need on these Bally's.
Also, there are several aftermarket makers of brand new & improved Bally board sets. I don't recommend trying to retrofit a generic power supply to provide voltages.
And I've only replaced the Bally rectifier of this series, when the original was truly toasted.
If you're halfway decent with a soldering iron (and solder sucker/desolder gun/tool)... these are fairly easy boards to repair. IMO
And... if you've got any display issues: http://stevekulpa.net/pinball/bally_disp6r.htm
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