(Topic ID: 142486)

F2K pf swap pics wanted and swap thread

By psd4me

8 years ago


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  • 89 posts
  • 13 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by psd4me
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There are 89 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
#51 8 years ago

Got some more work done on F2K this weekend. I had a near disaster on Fri eve was installing the mini post between the flippers I had only screwed it in about three threads and it snapped off I had predrilled the hole. It just shattered like it was over hardened. I was able to drill from the back side and get it out and I put a mini post with a stud in it's place. I didn't even try to use the original stern mini posts above the two wire guides on the lower left and right sides. The new ones I put in went in fine. Sat I went in to work and made up the screen for the spinners and screened the star side.

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Went in this morning and did the S side. You may notice they aren't located in quite the same spots as the N.O.S. spinner in the pics. I noticed when messing with these that when they spin the S is supposed to be in the middle of the stars but the ones in my game and the N.O.S. one the S ends up looking like it's partially on top of the stars so I re-positioned them so they line up correctly when they spin now.

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I also got most of the top side done this weekend. I ended up using blue posts everywhere but the three upper lane guides which I left the original red. I really like the way it looks with the blue posts and translucent rings.

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I wanted to use some trim washers on the plastics with the metal stands on them but I don't care for the ones CPR shows on their website. They tend to cut into whatever they're used on. I did some searching and came up with these.

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I'm using oval head screws with them. I really like the way these look. I had ordered just a pack of these to see how they would look so I placed an order for the rest and am waiting on them now(from China).

I also got the head on and the boards installed.

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I recapped the sound and driver boards and installed the Seige craft anti flicker boards since I'm using leds in the inserts.

Just to show the game was in decent shape before I started here's a couple of pics of the unrestored light board.

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That's it for now. Tomorrow the spinners will be dry and I can get those fit and then I'll be waiting on the trim washers and the pf will be able to go back in the game. I can't wait to fire this up and play a game.

#52 8 years ago

Wow, looking great!

#54 8 years ago

Here's the link for the washers if anybody is interested.

ebay.com link: 10PCS Alloy Aluminium Silver M3 3mm Countersunk Washer

They have red and blue also. I did drill them out a little to fit the screw better.

#55 8 years ago
Quoted from psd4me:

Here's the link for the washers

I like the look. How many washers are needed?

Eric

#56 8 years ago
Quoted from emsrph:

I like the look. How many washers are needed?
Eric

You would need 25 to do just the top side of the in lane guides and ball maze plastics. You would need an additional 17 to do the screws on the clear ball guides that don't go thru both layers of plastic (which I'm going to do).

#57 8 years ago

I got the spinners mounted tonight.

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So now I'm just waiting for the washers from China and I'll be able to put this bad boy back together and hope all the boards still work

#58 8 years ago

Nice work! The MPU 200 is fairly robust. It should boot no problem as long and the voltages are good. I always light up the pf after a swap just to make sure there are no shorts in the GI circuit. I also pull the pf fuse when first powering up the game just in case any coils lock on.

#59 8 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Nice work! The MPU 200 is fairly robust. It should boot no problem as long and the voltages are good. I always light up the pf after a swap just to make sure there are no shorts in the GI circuit. I also pull the pf fuse when first powering up the game just in case any coils lock on.

I agree I expect it to boot it's just been apart for years and you never know. I did power up the gi before I started covering bulbs up in case I had any issues.

#60 8 years ago

I bought a F2K recently and the previous owner made a not-so-good job of a playfield swap. What's wrong here? Ball often hangs up between the targets...

Posts need to be further forward (tricky now), another rubber band, or some adjustment of the bank from under the playfield?

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#61 8 years ago

If the targets fall too far below the playfield, it can create a lip that can hang up the ball.

#62 8 years ago
Quoted from vid1900:

If the targets fall too far below the playfield, it can create a lip that can hang up the ball.

Agreed and my repro targets seem to have a bit of a ramp on top that would tend to run the ball back on to the pf

#63 8 years ago

The thick clear coat on the CPR causes some issues like this. Try adding a second rubber under the first one. My original F2K had this problem with the oem pf as well except the ball would hang up between the lower third drop target and the metal ball guide. On the CPR swap I remember I had to add a shim under the 1-5 drops to keep them level with the pf when they in the down position.

#64 8 years ago

I also have to shim the bank when i did my playfeild swap to make the target flush with the playfeild

#65 8 years ago
Quoted from Redketchup:

I also have to shim the bank when i did my playfeild swap to make the target flush with the playfeild

I think I may have to mess with this on mine also.

2 months later
#66 7 years ago

Hi guys I'm back I have the game up and running (pics to follow) I've been super busy so Haven't had the time to get things together to make a proper update but I do have an issue. When shooting the ball walker and the ball hits the ball launcher switch the game will tilt and the Left kickout will fire like it thinks there's a ball there. All these switches are on the same row along with the F rollover and #4 DT. I haven't noticed if the F or dt4 do anything when this happens. I've tried my Ultimate MPU in the game and it does the same thing so it's on the pf or the wiring. It seems to me like the whole row is shorted together but I might be wrong. It doesn't do it all the time but does seem to be getting worse. Any ideas? Thanks guys

#67 7 years ago

Got it fixed I put it in switch test and everything was fine when triggering the switches by hand but when I put a ball in the top of the walker to activate the launch switch I was getting the other switches showing up. I flipped up the pf and started messing with the walker and found out with the coil mounted this way (stop already removed)

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it was shorting to the walker bracket. So the ball was shorting it because it would touch the switch arm and the walker at the same time.

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So I flipped it around (the stop held it a little off the bracket as opposed to the other way) put some mylar on the walker bracket where the coil is and put it back together and it works great so the game is 100% at this point (we'll see how long it stays that way lol)

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And as promised a few pics.

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As you can see I put in the button mods from PINBALL-MODS.COM I think I got the last of the cool white ones. I also got the blue buttons and yellow housings from them. I think they look awesome pics don't do them justice.

I used translucent silicone rings on this game and love the look but they didn't hold up on the lower slings or behind the 1-5 drop targets. They ended up breaking after a few games. I don't want to use white rubber on this so I put black in those locations and they seem to be holding up fine. I also had the seigecraft adapter boards in this game and I wasn't happy with them so I got an ultimate led driver board and it works much better but I still seem to have a not consistent slight general flickering even the pop bumpers are doing it. I tried a Greatplains rectifier board and that didn't make it any better. I will have to check this out a little more at some point. The pics don't really show how good this came out. I'm super happy with it. If anybody is in the area and wants to stop by to check it out just let me know. Mike

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#68 7 years ago

1 thing I do have left to do is get my apron and shooter gauge powder coated so I can put my new decals from Pinball Rescue on. I need to find another shooter gauge the one I had I modified to fit the button mods in there but I decided to do them differently so I need another gauge to mod a little differently.

1 week later
#70 7 years ago

Small update on the flickering. I hooked a ground wire from the screw on the GP rec board to the ground wire on the rectifier plate mounting screw and that seems to have helped quite a bit. The apron and shooter gauge are at the powdercoaters as we speak, should have them back early next week.

#71 7 years ago

When you installed the Alltek lamp driver, did you hook up the jumper to the switch lamp bus? There is specific directions for Stern games with speech. You have to cut 2 wires going from the lamp driver to the speech board.

#72 7 years ago

Book marked!!
I'll be heading down this road soon too...
But in a little different manner

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#73 7 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

When you installed the Alltek lamp driver, did you hook up the jumper to the switch lamp bus? There is specific directions for Stern games with speech. You have to cut 2 wires going from the lamp driver to the speech board.

Yes I did. I didn't cut the wires though. I pulled one pin for the two wires from opposite connectors that way I don't even have to mark them as to where they go and they can be just plugged back in should I go back to the original boards.

#74 7 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

Book marked!!
I'll be heading down this road soon too...
But in a little different manner

Hey look it's F2K's little brother lol. That looks like it's in good condition. I wish you were closer I've always wanted to play one of those to see how it compares. I've read where some people prefer it to F2K. Keep us posted on your progress.

#75 7 years ago
Quoted from psd4me:

Hey look it's F2K's little brother lol. That looks like it's in good condition. I wish you were closer I've always wanted to play one of those to see how it compares. I've read where some people prefer it to F2K. Keep us posted on your progress.

No doubt!

#76 7 years ago

I got to play a Gamatron at the VFW show yesterday it is definitely much tighter quarters. I prefer having the two pops instead of the one on Gama. I didn't realize they use kickout holes instead of the ball walker on Gama also so it's a little quicker getting the multiball going going than F2k. It also has a gap where the ball can get to the far right kicker from the pop area so it's easier to get the ball back up top to get the rollover lanes.

#77 7 years ago

Where did you buy the socket lugs from? It is a great idea.

#78 7 years ago
Quoted from SealClubber:

Where did you buy the socket lugs from? It is a great idea.

This is where I got mine http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?mpart=7312&vendor=36

#79 7 years ago

Well done. She's a beauty

#81 7 years ago
Quoted from Aeolus7:

Well done. She's a beauty

Thanks

#82 7 years ago

Picked up the apron and shooter gauge today

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They look great very happy with how they came out.Now I need to get the new decals on them

#83 7 years ago

did you get the new wide body stern decal set from Pinball Rescue?

#84 7 years ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

did you get the new wide body stern decal set from Pinball Rescue?

Yes I did. In fact I was going to get the standard width decal and cut it into the three pieces I needed (that's all Stern did with the silk screen) when I thought I would ask about getting it printed that way so I may have been the first to ask or the last that they needed to do this but now we have it

1 week later
#85 7 years ago

I got the decals on this weekend and was just waiting for the milkyness to go away so here it is.

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I also got Lovef2k's spinners done (Which I'm sure he'll be happy about)

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Lovef2k you have a pm

#86 7 years ago
Quoted from psd4me:

Small update on the flickering. I hooked a ground wire from the screw on the GP rec board to the ground wire on the rectifier plate mounting screw and that seems to have helped quite a bit. The apron and shooter gauge are at the powdercoaters as we speak, should have them back early next week.

I may have missed this, but was the flickering in the GI with LEDs ? I'm working on a game and was considering using LEDs for the GI but I'm afraid of flickering or strobe . I will also be using an alltek board set . I don't normally use LEDs but I thought they my be good for this game ,seems like all the plastic guides in the lock maze are warped I'm assuming from the heat of the incandescent bulbs right below those.
.

#87 7 years ago

The only gi I have leds in are the pops and backbox,yes I was having trouble with those flickering also

#88 7 years ago
Quoted from psd4me:

The only gi I have leds in are the pops and backbox,yes I was having trouble with those flickering also

Thanks for the info , I was afraid it might be a problem on this game . I Will go with the standard incandescent bulbs for the gi .

6 years later
#89 1 year ago
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