(Topic ID: 183472)

F14-Tomcat simple solution?

By StratDoc

7 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 40 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 years ago by GRUMPY
  • Topic is favorited by 2 Pinsiders

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d98627d3bfe1e006a3c6780c92dfb6b60020da21 (resized).jpg
dremel 932 (resized).jpg
#1 7 years ago

I purchased a project F14 and have most everything working. I need to replace the flasher bulbs along the top of the playfield. Is there a trick to doing this? When I left the board it pivots into the cabinet and the top of the playfield becomes inaccessible. I cannot get my hand in there to remove and replace bulbs.

Thanks

#2 7 years ago

Lift p/f and set on prop rod, then cram your hand back behind the back board. Feel for the wing nuts that hold the flasher board in place and remove them. Then slide the board off the protruding bolts and lift it up over the top of the back board. You will be able to change the bulbs now. It's a pain in more ways then one.

#3 7 years ago

Thanks. Found the wing nuts and t is a pain in the ass.

#4 7 years ago

While you have the board out, resolder the male connector pins, as they always have cracked solder joints.

#5 7 years ago
Quoted from StratDoc:

a pain in the ass.

The real pain will come when you try to reinstall the wing nuts!

#6 7 years ago

Per Vid's suggestion I resoldered the solder joints. All lamps flash except lamp 4. I double checked to make sure power was getting to the lamp, and it has power. Solder joints look fine. I am stumped.

#7 7 years ago

Did you install LED flashers? If so check the lamp socket. I put LED flashers in mine and one on the red,white and blue flasher bank on the right side of the playfield didn't work. Pulled the board and saw the lamp socket was installed backwards so the voltage was reversed. Would always work fun with standard bulbs but not led. Easy fix.

#8 7 years ago
Quoted from bflagg:

Did you install LED flashers? If so check the lamp socket. I put LED flashers in mine and one on the red,white and blue flasher bank on the right side of the playfield didn't work. Pulled the board and saw the lamp socket was installed backwards so the voltage was reversed. Would always work fun with standard bulbs but not led. Easy fix.

Yep, if a standard bulb works, but LED does not, then socket is wired backwards.

#9 7 years ago

No, it is a standard #89 bulb. not LED.

#10 7 years ago

Filament might be loose and only work in one orientation, so try second bulb.

Clean socket with one of these:

dremel 932 (resized).jpgdremel 932 (resized).jpg

#11 7 years ago

Got out the Dremmel and sanded the inside. Changed bulbs and still no luck.

#12 7 years ago

If there is voltage on the backside, but not on the inside, sounds like the socket is bad.

#13 7 years ago

Yes, voltage on the back.

#15 7 years ago

Does the other flasher on the p/f work? If no then check the flasher resistor board for a bad 5 ohm resistor.

#16 7 years ago

No, it s not working either. I did not notice until you asked. These are the resistors attached to the playfield, correct?

#17 7 years ago

Small square board with 4 cement resistors mounted under the p/f for that flasher.

#18 7 years ago

These sometimes get so hot that the resistors unsolder themselves!

If you don't have proper voltage at the socket, often one leg is unsoldered.

If the whole resistor is missing, it's usually on the floor of the cab, completely unsoldered.

d98627d3bfe1e006a3c6780c92dfb6b60020da21 (resized).jpgd98627d3bfe1e006a3c6780c92dfb6b60020da21 (resized).jpg

#20 7 years ago

All the resistors are there and still soldered. I have not yet checked the resistance to see if one has failed, but I do have correct voltage at the socket. The other number 4 flasher on the playfield is also not working.

Very cool to restore to the original design. I definitely need to do that. Is there also a mod for additional lights at the top of playfield?

Thanks,

#21 7 years ago
Quoted from StratDoc:

All the resistors are there and still soldered

There are many resistor boards under the p/f and in the backbox. You say its #4 flasher, so look at the solenoid page in the manual to find which board it is. Its a board on the right side of the p/f with the white/yellow on the lamp terminal. Check the large resistor for 5 ohms.

#22 7 years ago

If the resistor is open, solder the new one about 1/4" ABOVE the circuit board so it can get airflow.

Mind the gap.

#23 7 years ago

Both 5 ohm resistors on the board with the white/yellow lamp wire measure 5.4-5.6 ohms. They appear okay.

#24 7 years ago

When you say the socket has voltage, what exactly IS the voltage?

#25 7 years ago

I think it was close to 25 volts. I do have a board with white/black lamp wire where the two 5 ohm resistors measure 10.0 and 3.9 which is well outside the tolerance range.

#26 7 years ago

I see on the schematic that white/black connects to the cabinet plug which would explain why it does not work. One problem potentially solved.

#27 7 years ago

Both flasher 2 have also decided to quit working - ugh.

#28 7 years ago

Put game in solenoid test and lock it on flasher #4 and then take a jumper wire connected to the ground braid and briefly touch the metal tab of Q-24 on the CPU board, does it light when you ground Q-24?

#29 7 years ago

Yes, it lights lamp 4 when I touch a ground to q24.

#30 7 years ago

Then you have a board problem for #4 flasher. Now find the #2 flasher board with the white/red wire and test the resistor for ohms.

#31 7 years ago

Both 5 ohm read 5.4-5.5 ohms. 330 ohm read 42?

#32 7 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Put game in solenoid test and lock it on flasher #2 and then take a jumper wire connected to the ground braid and briefly touch the metal tab of Q-25 on the CPU board, does it light when you ground Q-25?

#33 7 years ago

I think flasher 2 is bad bulbs. Will check later today. The one on the field flashed without grounding to q25. The bulb at the back did not flash.

#34 7 years ago
Quoted from StratDoc:

I think flasher 2 is bad bulb

Bulb or socket.

Quoted from GRUMPY:

Then you have a board problem for #4 flasher

Do you have a logic probe?

#35 7 years ago

Yes. I think it is the bulb. It was working previously.

#36 7 years ago

Hook up your probe on the CPU board place game in solenoid test and lock on 4c flasher. Probe SR6 pin 5 (pin 1 has a white dot on the board) and you should have a low with high pulses. Then probe SR7 pin 4 and should be low with high pulses. Tell me what you get.

#37 7 years ago

SR6 pulses. SR7 stays constant low.

Flash 2 was not a bulb. It is not flashing.

#38 7 years ago
Quoted from StratDoc:

SR6 pulses. SR7 stays constant low.

Then Q-20 is bad and needs to be replaced.

Quoted from StratDoc:Flash 2 was not a bulb. It is not flashing.

You need to check continuity on the white/red from the socket to the resistor board. You need to check for voltage at the socket too.

#39 7 years ago

Thanks, Grumpy. The q20 transistor was actually missing. I had an extra from an old board and installed . Works now

#40 7 years ago
Quoted from StratDoc:

The q20 transistor was actually missing

This explains why it didn't work...

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