(Topic ID: 66172)

F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.

By Hellfire

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 5,596 posts
  • 469 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 20 hours ago by pb456
  • Topic is favorited by 205 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

19 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #91 Insert color list Posted by jodini (10 years ago)

Post #98 Video - Add red flashers back to light show. Posted by Patofnaud (10 years ago)

Post #163 Technical Sheet - Matrix, etc. Posted by Snux (10 years ago)

Post #205 Speaker Panel - Early model= glue Posted by IceCreamMan (10 years ago)

Post #406 Pop bumper cap replacement. Posted by Fifty (9 years ago)

Post #466 Bulletproof - rectifier fuses Posted by Snux (9 years ago)

Post #477 Removing warming resistors Posted by Jumping-Box (9 years ago)

Post #513 Cliffy Flipper Frames Posted by Xenon75 (9 years ago)

Post #569 How to increase Bonus Posted by wayout440 (9 years ago)

Post #747 Pinball Cards Posted by agodfrey (9 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#4361 3 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

... I'm betting I shrunk the damn thing when I went to flatten it in my oven.
[quoted image]

Is there a technique for flattening warped plastics in the oven? My diverter cover is slightly warped but it would be nice to flatten it down too.

Also, does anyone know what those little black plastic screw sleeve/clips are that attach to the plastic? I have several of them in my F-14 that are beat up, making it hard to remove them from the plastic. I'd like to replace them.

#4377 3 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

The key to not damaging them is to heat them slowly. A little heat....a little pause...a little heat...etc. The goal is to bring the whole plastic temperature up as evenly as possible. Once warm enough you just need to set something smooth on top of it and let it cool....like a piece of glass. I'd agree with @luckymoey. If at all nervous about doing this, use a hair dryer. A heat gun can get away from you.

Thanks for the tips on flattening the plastic everyone! I'll check out Marcos and/or Pinball Life for the clips as well. My F-14 is definitely "player condition" but she's my baby so I like doing little things here and there to spruce her up.

1 year later
#4984 2 years ago
Quoted from JT-Pinball:

Hardtop! Now to work out the bugs.
[quoted image]

Did Outside Edge really use the weird rounded “Flight Insurance” lettering on the insert? My original has both words horizontal

2 months later
#5071 2 years ago

I’m running I to some problems with my beacons (the 4a sb fuse keeps blowing) and was hoping someone might know where to start the diagnostics.

* Everything was working fine prior to today.

* To start diagnosing I unplugged the motor so only the lights trigger when necessary. I started a game and locked all the balls and saw that the beacon lights were lit (for about a minute). After that they went out because the fuse blew.
* I checked the voltage at the fuse clip and it looks like it was around 16v when the beacons would have been active.

I ran out of 4amp sb fuses or I would have repeated the test with just the motor

Is it possible the beacon lamp sockets went bad and are drawing too many amps?

Thanks for any help!

#5074 2 years ago
Quoted from reps:

I pulled the assembly out to make it easier to work on. 4 screws [don't drop them] disconnect the plug and it should drop out.
Pull the bulbs and meter the sockets.
From memory the bad socket had continuity from the center to the side and the good sockets did not. The bracket that holds the lamps is electrically isolated from the bulbs so the center and side contacts should not have continuity to the bracket at all. At least on the one I worked on.

Thanks to you both for the suggestions. I went ahead and pulled the assembly, removed all the bulbs, and tested each socket for continuity. Every socket had continuity from the center to the side of the socket, (and even to the bracket itself!) so it looks like every one went bad!
I’m guessing the insulator “rings” on the sockets finally dried up/went bad. Having it happen all at once seems odd but they’re all the same age.

Any way to salvage these by replacing the insulators? (Using some compressed air didn’t magically fix anything ).

I’m not opposed to trying to replace the sockets with something equivalent that operates using LED flashers if I have to (my game is definitely a player’s condition game). However, I would like to salvage as much of the original assembly as possible.

#5077 2 years ago

Thanks for the advice! I clipped the wires and it was only one socket having trouble. I spent a few minutes poking the center spring and messing with the socket and eventually it stopped grounding itself so I re-soldered everything and put the beacon unit back in the game and it all seems to be working for now. Hopefully it holds together for the foreseeable future!

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