(Topic ID: 66172)

F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.

By Hellfire

10 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

19 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #91 Insert color list Posted by jodini (10 years ago)

Post #98 Video - Add red flashers back to light show. Posted by Patofnaud (10 years ago)

Post #163 Technical Sheet - Matrix, etc. Posted by Snux (10 years ago)

Post #205 Speaker Panel - Early model= glue Posted by IceCreamMan (10 years ago)

Post #406 Pop bumper cap replacement. Posted by Fifty (9 years ago)

Post #466 Bulletproof - rectifier fuses Posted by Snux (9 years ago)

Post #477 Removing warming resistors Posted by Jumping-Box (9 years ago)

Post #513 Cliffy Flipper Frames Posted by Xenon75 (9 years ago)

Post #569 How to increase Bonus Posted by wayout440 (9 years ago)

Post #747 Pinball Cards Posted by agodfrey (9 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#507 9 years ago

Mine still has the factory mylar on most of the playfield. I would love to remove it, but I am a big chicken.

I dont want to remove any artwork, and I hear getting all the glue off is a major pain.

1 month later
#615 9 years ago

<<<Help needed>>>

I have an F14 that has been sidelined for many years. Now I have the itch to get it going. The previous owner, and amusement company took a few parts off it, so here are my questions.

1. Looking in the bottom of the cabinet on left, I have a white wire with a red band, that has been cut. I tested it, and it is the wire that goes to the outhole switch. Where should this wire be connected?

2. Nearer the coin door, I have a white wire with a purple band. Where does this go?
3. They also cut out the test switches and some that go to the coin mechs. I am not too worried about these. I soldered in some switches I found at Radio Shack and they seem to work.

Thanks

#621 9 years ago
Quoted from Snux:

1 - White/Red is row 2 in the matrix, it daisy chains around all the switches in that row, including the outhole switch. In the bottom left of the cabinet the only item on that row is the ball roll tilt which mounts to the left side. At the back end of that is a switch which gets activated when the front of the machine is lifted high enough to roll the ball back. That switch is where this wire goes.
2 - White/Purple is row 7. The only item on that row by the coin door is the slam tilt switch. On the inside of the door is a switch with like a little weight on it. The idea being that if you slam the door when it's closed, the switch will activate and tilt the machine. That's where this wire goes.

Thanks Mark. I thought the white/red might to that roll tilt since it was the only switch even remotely close to the wire. It also explains why I have a whole series of switches that don't work.

Actually non of my trough switches register, either. I'll look for some more cut wires.

The slim tilt on the door also makes sense, since they cut all the wires from the test switches and most of the coin door wiring, and a grounding cable.

2 months later
#707 9 years ago

If your wiring is long enough, I would reverse those flipper coils.

Putting the diode end opposite the coil stop will save you some problems, a little further down the road.

#716 9 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Uh… why do you only have one transformer under the PF? I have two.

From what I have read, the second transformer is a Canadian thing. Something about different regulatory issues.

Only one is needed. The second one simply burns electricity, and makes the Canadian government feel better.

#718 9 years ago

Scroll down about half way on the first page of this thread.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/high-speed-wiring-help

2 weeks later
#773 9 years ago

Either way, it's far safer to do it with the game off.

I have changed a few easy to get to GI lamps, from the top, with the power on. However, if you have to go at it from the underside, especially if you have to remove the lamp socket, always power off first.

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