(Topic ID: 66172)

F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.

By Hellfire

10 years ago


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  • 5,581 posts
  • 467 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Jumping-Box
  • Topic is favorited by 205 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

19 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #91 Insert color list Posted by jodini (10 years ago)

Post #98 Video - Add red flashers back to light show. Posted by Patofnaud (10 years ago)

Post #163 Technical Sheet - Matrix, etc. Posted by Snux (10 years ago)

Post #205 Speaker Panel - Early model= glue Posted by IceCreamMan (10 years ago)

Post #406 Pop bumper cap replacement. Posted by Fifty (9 years ago)

Post #466 Bulletproof - rectifier fuses Posted by Snux (9 years ago)

Post #477 Removing warming resistors Posted by Jumping-Box (9 years ago)

Post #513 Cliffy Flipper Frames Posted by Xenon75 (9 years ago)

Post #569 How to increase Bonus Posted by wayout440 (9 years ago)

Post #747 Pinball Cards Posted by agodfrey (9 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#3490 5 years ago

I’m in the club, Goose!

Just picked one up and brought it home. The guy said he had to it for 20 years! Turned it on and there were some switch errors. I’ll check later what they were. Hopefully the work I’ve done on Space Station will pay off. No toppers which is a bummer, so need to figure out something for that. Was super glad that the ancient batteries showed absolutely no corrosion!

Needs a major cleaning, but there is one ugly spot on the playfield! Looks smashed in and chipped away, not sure what would cause that! So thinking I need to hit up a playfield protector if this thing is going to play smooth. But I might also have to pull up the Mylar... if I dare do that. IDK, anyone have thoughts on that?

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1 week later
#3502 5 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Yep, if you do remove the mylar, be prepared to do some touch ups. Almost guaranteed you WILL lose some art. So its either get ready to do some arts and crafts and then clear , or put a playfield protector on it and play, or just play it the way it is. I used the freeze spray method on mine. It went pretty well but i did lose some art. Just go slow if you decide to do it. Just keep in mind that system 11s are known to lift art when removing mylar and once you start removing a section... there is no going back.

Yeah, I watched a few videos on it, and read a number of forum topics, I hear system 11s will be rough, but with all the bubbles this thing has I think it might be the right move. Plus, with that gash, after I pull it up I’ll spring for the playfield protector for smooth play I think.

Going to be nerve racking. Question, some places say take everything off the top of the playfield, others leave some stuff on. Any guidance there? Also, do you plug any of the holes for lighting or other places that it could drip through?

#3503 5 years ago
Quoted from Netsepp:

Same Problem. Got an old one and the mylar was full of bubbles and some damages on the playfield.
Here is my way how I do it:
Think the only way to get a beautiful F14 is to remove the mylar (i used hot air - but the glue remains on the playfield).
Then remove all inserts (Watch they break easily - use hot air to soften glue).
Then clean the playfield with adhesive remover.
Wet grind all inserts and insert them plain on the playfield.
So you have a good ground playfield.
Fill in deep damages to got plain.
Now clearcoat the playfield to get a straight surface.
At this point (if you have a straight surface) you can begin to make the insert decals and correct the damaged parts of the playfield with overlays.
After that you have to clear cote again to save the overlays.
It may be that you have to do it several times.
if you use a strong varnish you do not have to make a protector - otherwise a protector comes on it
I'm working on it right now
best regards Mike[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That’s some amazing work! I wish there were a Hardtop for this, that would make this whole thing easier haha! I think my inserts looked good if I remember right. Traveling so I can’t check right now, but I believe it all was still level, which is good. Itching to LED this thing too.

#3504 5 years ago

What kills me too is ... no topper. And that sucker is expensive! Ha.

I have an extra motor from a Space Station. Can I rig something together with that? DIY F-14 topper? Ha

#3508 5 years ago

Oh man, this is perfect. Gonna go this route, thanks! I also started checking Alibaba, looks like I can get some rotating beacons in the 3 colors for cheap. Then just need to hook the rest in the same way on that tutorial I think.

3 weeks later
#3535 5 years ago

Hey all, I need some help identifying where a few wires go on my F-14. The two targets in front of the middle sections don’t work, and looking under the playfield I have a disconnected green/yellow wire on the right target, which looks like it may go to the green/yellow leaving the same switch, so just want to confirm that. Then on the left switch, a loose black wire that likely bridges the two targets, just need to see where it attaches to the right. Super poor soldering job on all of it by the previous owner I can see. (First pic below)

Next (second pic) the top red TOM targets, the O and the M targets don’t register. Once again, a disconnected wire. This one is a yellow. It looks like the O side is still attached, so need to see where to connect on the T switch.

Can anyone get a pic from theirs for me on these 3 wires?

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7 months later
#3805 4 years ago

Hey all, got a new F-14, so yay! Problem though, it only registers every other ball drain??? No joke, it is dialed in to every other drain, so it won’t pop another ball out to the shooter lane. And if I turn the game off on the one it is supposed to not register, and turn it on, it can’t find the ball. Not sure how it’s possible that it is such a consistent error, but that’s what’s happening. Anyone had this happen on theirs???

#3809 4 years ago
Quoted from pinplayerinva:

WTB Anyone out there have any beacon domes they'd like to sell? Im looking for all 3 but ill take anything you've got. I'm aware marco sells them but i just don't want to pay $32 each for them![quoted image]

Following the answer on this, also interested. (even though mine also doesn’t have the lighting assembly)

#3824 4 years ago

This one might be an easy one to get help on.

It’s hard to get a picture of these, but the GI lighting under the playfield that goes up between the 1,2,3,4,5,6 targets, and the lower TOM CAT are out. Is that all controlled on one fuse? I have continuity. There were wires cut and stayed apart on the 1,2,3, so that side wasn’t working but the rest were. I tested touching the wire over and it did work before I soldered it. Now none of them work. Any thoughts?

I am also Still having issues where the ball drains, will kick it over to the switch, but the game doesn’t recognize the drain, and it happens exactly every other time a ball drains. So any help on this one would still be great!

DB184DA4-4152-4C97-99C8-CE256B17AF8F (resized).jpegDB184DA4-4152-4C97-99C8-CE256B17AF8F (resized).jpeg
#3825 4 years ago
Quoted from TicTacSeth:

This one might be an easy one to get help on.
It’s hard to get a picture of these, but the GI lighting under the playfield that goes up between the 1,2,3,4,5,6 targets, and the lower TOM CAT are out. Is that all controlled on one fuse? I have continuity. There were wires cut and stayed apart on the 1,2,3, so that side wasn’t working but the rest were. I tested touching the wire over and it did work before I soldered it. Now none of them work. Any thoughts?
I am also Still having issues where the ball drains, will kick it over to the switch, but the game doesn’t recognize the drain, and it happens exactly every other time a ball drains. So any help on this one would still be great![quoted image]

Solved, fuse didn’t look blown at all, but it was.
Solved the second issue too, cracked solder joint.

Last thing to solve is a weak pop bumper.

#3827 4 years ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

Nice work. My pop bumper is less strong than any other game I have but I assume it is because of the tight confines it is in so as not to tear things apart with the ball. It should be a 23-800 which is used alot in this game and is less powerful than Walking Dead's 26-1200.

Ah, good to know. I thought it was there to bang the ball around the targets a bit more than it does. It’s not pushing the ball up to them that much.

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