(Topic ID: 66172)

F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.


By Hellfire

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 3 days ago by GRUMPY
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#2100 3 years ago

Except for the fact that most machines out there will still have a crapola playfield and the high end restored ones will be worth something after all. I wouldn't expect more than $3500 though.
I have invested far too much to get back all my money. In addition to a new repro playfield, I installed a new Rottendog CPU driver board and power source and knocker assembly. Also will install a playfield protector and rebuld flippers and pop bumper assembly. New legs and leveling feet and cabinet protectors, lift channel and translite framing, volume pot, ribbon cables, all LED lighting, star posts, Cliffy inlane blades, spinner assembly, playfield glass, rubbers, balls etc. The machine came with a Pinscore display and new plastic set which I installed. Many more improvements as well. So I expect to loose money on this one. I guess it's a labor of love.

3 months later
#2329 2 years ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

Those boards are great!
They solve 5 problems in one go.
Replaces both rectifiers, adds both fuses and replaces the BIG cap.
More info is on my website http://www.inkochnito.nl
Just click on the Bridge Boared image.
Here is an image from my proto type board in F14...

If I hadn't already installed the fuses for the rectifiers and spent entirely too much money already restoring F-14, I would have bought one of these. They are great!

3 weeks later
#2402 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:

Did my first complete flipper build on a TomCat (EOS and everything)! Such an epic game with a fantastic light show and sound track The beacons going off during multiball makes you feel like a hero

I finished all mine per vid's guide. All converted to fliptronic style. Haven't tried them out yet as playfield is awaiting cabinet restoration now. Won't be long.

#2403 2 years ago

FYI,
I have the F-14 playfield scans Vid gave me. If you want them, PM me your email. They need touching up in photoshop but they are pretty good condition.

#2418 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinball-DOOD:

Tell me how it is!

When I finally get it all back together sometime this spring or summer I will.

#2419 2 years ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

In my experience, the "Fliptronic" conversion Vid outlines, while certainly a "cleaner" setup (springs can't scratch the plunger), its effect on flipper action isn't really so noticeable. It's odd that Vid calls it Fliptronic rather than simply putting it in terms of updating the springs, as Fliptronic was a significant departure from the way flippers had been designed previously. That said, rebuilt flippers are pretty much always a good idea on a game you take in unless you know for *certain* that they've been rebuilt correctly by the previous owner. Vid's guide to rebuilds is an awesome asset here on Pinside.

Ok. Shows how much I know about what a Fliptronic flipper is. But ya.

1 week later
#2442 2 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Gonna look good when I'm done!

The proper order for the rotating beacon domes is red on left and blue on right. Red,White,Blue.
From http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=804
Here is pic of the rear of F-14 flyer.
Notice the proto cabinet paint job!
Cheers!

804f2 (resized).jpg

1 month later
#2511 2 years ago

Well I finally installed my F-14 decals with the metal leg protectors and the legs still dug into the decals and cut them, but below the protectors.. It appears that they may have cheapened up the leg protectors by making them thinner metal. Had they been thicker, this wouldn't have happened. I bought these protectors from Pinball Life "Metal Cabinet Protectors (set of 4) 535-0599-00" I should have checked closer before tightening them down. But this is B.S. So be warned. The legs are brand new Williams system 11 legs too. Sorry no picture.

#2517 2 years ago
Quoted from TomDK:

F-14 has no decals .... sorry ... could not resist ...

No Shit!

#2518 2 years ago

Yes, I did trim the decals around the protectors. It wrinkles down lower where the legs touch. If the protectors where thicker this wouldn't happen. The legs dig right into the cabinet. I thought of doubling them up. So that's the solution then.

#2519 2 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

My F-14 already has decals... possibly most owner use stencil kits or repaint, but decal is an Option.

There are no stencils for F-14
I was going to go at it with frisket and my air brush, but the work load was too much and I suck at air brushing any way.

#2525 2 years ago

I really did a lot of prep work on the cabinet before installing the decals. It turned out almost perfect. I used the dry method. They aren't kidding when they say every little flaw shows! Then of course the legs have to dig in. Oh well. No biggy.

1 week later
#2543 2 years ago

I

#2545 2 years ago
Quoted from Minneapolispin:

Have any of you added spotlights to this game? It seems so dark and it's very hard to see the ball when it's bouncing around up near the top, by the pop bumper. I'd love to see some ideas of locations of where to place a spot or two.

I put a clamp lamp with a 25watt bulb on the ceiling off to the side (so it won't reflect off of playfield glass). This helped a lot! Also, too bright of LEDS can make the problem worse. This is another reason I'm planning to install a LED OCD in mine. To dim the overly bright LED's that I used. F-14 is not a game for a dark room! The playfield is just too dark for that, and the game is too freakin fast!

#2546 2 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

Which art did you use (from which company)? The only part of mine that truly needs redone is the front, but stenciling it is tough because it keeps pulling up original layers of paint. I even clearcoated it, but then when I used frisket and cut it, it cut through the clear and still pulled up previous layers. It's pretty frustrating. I'm considering decals now, but my sides are nice enough to just touch up.

I got my decals at Bay Area Amusements. Very nice!

#2547 2 years ago

Rebuilt pop bumper. Now I have pop bumper power locking on in diagnostic mode, not power on. It blows the 2.5A fuse on lower right under play field. I have a Rottendog MPU (System 11A) driver board. Can't find any shorted transistors with diode test to ground strap. And the Mosfets seem ok even though my DMM (diode test) will not turn them on. The Q69 (pop bumper) transistor is a TIP107 and appears good (no short from tab to ground strap). Coil and diode are good. Stack switch is removed.
Any suggestions please?

#2549 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

If someone could take some close up photos of how these two diverter coils should be wired up and oriented it would help me a lot.
Looks like from the photo below someone has put the coils on upside down and spliced into the purple/yellow wire to only have to run one Purple/yellow to each coil. (Will that work?)
Also are these coils supposed to have diodes or no diodes.
Photos of a working games diverter coils are really needed.
I have two new coils with diodes, just don't want to install wrong. I already have to replace the tip and pre driver.

IMG_0665 (resized).JPG

IMG_0668 (resized).JPG

#2550 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I would need a schematic for a RD board to be sure. Not sure what RD has changed from the original system 11A board.

http://rottendog.us/MPU004.pdf

#2552 2 years ago

Thank you so much for the help. I did buy a logic probe today because I figured I would need it. But, I never used one before so please bear with me. I will attempt this tomorrow. Must sleep now.

#2554 2 years ago

Sorry GRUMPY, I got unexpected company today. I will check this tomorrow - Sunday.
Cheers!

#2556 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Thanks for the photos.
I have mine situated correct now but close up photos like this always help.
I have noticed they used Red/White wires on some F-14's and on others like mine they used a Violet/yellow wire.
I have already flipped my coils over because they were indeed installed upside down and replaced them with new coils with diodes.
Have not gotten to test them out yet because the CPU was a mess behind the Q77 and Q79 area. So much so that it was beyond my repair ability. So I am waiting for it to come back in the mail soon.

Yes, my F-14 is a real early run. Everything but the "X" in the serial# and the prototype paint job. I suppose there are also wire color differences.
Good luck with board.
I bought a Rottendog MPU board because the original was so roached by previous "experts" making repairs. Now I may have blown chips on it. Oh the pain!

#2557 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Check U-19 pin 2 with a logic probe in attract mode, then start a game and see if it changes.

OK,
Pin #2 on U-19 is giving both red and green light at same time in both attract mode and after I start game. No change.

#2559 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Have you read Terryb guide to logic probes?

I am reading it now. This is the logic probe I have. Is it ok? There is no separate yellow LED?
amazon.com link »

#2561 2 years ago

Ok, it's on order from Amazon. Will have it in a few days. Please stand by. LOL.
Thanks

#2565 2 years ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

Still A Good price

Yes, a very good price!

#2566 2 years ago

GRUMPY,
It looks like Q10 is the FET controlling the pop bumper (special solenoid) on Rottendog board (CN19 Pin 6). I was incorrectly thinking Q69. Is there a way to test Q10 without removing it?

http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Williams_F-14_Tomcat_Tech_Chart.pdf

http://rottendog.us/MPU004.pdf

#2568 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

It is Q-69 on a Williams board. And its Q-10 on a Rottendog board.
You said earlier that the coil doesn't lock on until you start a game or diagnostics so this tells me that the FET Q-10 is fine. This is why I wanted you to get a logic probe.

Ya, I can't find anything wrong with Q10 or wire. Funny that there is a Q69 on the Rottendog board too. Probe is on it's way.

#2569 2 years ago

Does anyone know why both of my roll under switches in the upper loop are getting stuck in one direction in the upward position after ball passes through. I'm thinking that the feather switches may need to be repositioned?

#2571 2 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Either you have to reposition the switch or clean them.
Often the small cam switch is hooked by dust, or the switch is burned.

Solved!
These feather switches are both brand new. Being that this is a repro play field, the holes are not in exactly the same place. I just epoxied the feather switch holes over and will reposition them and drill new holes. This is my problem on both roll unders.
Cheers!

#2572 2 years ago

GRUMPY,
I just got my "Elenco LP-560" probe in.
I rechecked U-19 pin 2 with a logic probe in attract mode, and after starting a game, and still get both red and green lights at same time as well as blinking yellow light in both modes..No change between modes.

#2575 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

What does U-11 pin 18 show in attract mode and in a game?

OK,
In attract mode I have Low, and during game High. No pulse on either.

#2577 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

This should stay low until the skirt switch closes. Is this chip socketed?

Chip is not socketed.
Hold on. I counted the pins counter clockwise from pin 1 (chip indicator mark) to pin eighteen. I did compensate for chip being upside-down. Is this correct? Also, I measured connected to 5V on TTL setting.

#2578 2 years ago

Also, the pop bumper skirt switch is closing according to my DMM continuity test, but will not show up in switch edge test or switch levels test.

#2580 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

This maybe where the problem is starting from. Doesn't RD boards only fire a coil once if a switch is stuck closed.

I am pretty sure that is correct. Even Williams System 11A "Big Guns" and later had that ability.
Please understand that with my DMM connected to the spoon switch, it is only closed when I push on the skirt. One released, switch opens. So switch is ok. I did install a new electrolytic polarized cap on it. The same uF and voltage value (22uF and 25V ). The resistor in series with it is good as well (100 ohms).

Read this: http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#Special_solenoid_problems

"Should a special solenoid lock on, and the switch leaves are properly gapped, the issue may be a shorted switch capacitor or resistor."

#2582 2 years ago

GRUMPY,
You still out there?

#2584 2 years ago

Glad you're back!
OK,
U-24 Pin9 is Low in both modes. No pulsing.

#2586 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Check pin 2 of U-11 in attract mode and in a game.

OK,
U-11 pin2 is High in both modes. No pulsing.

#2588 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

This is what it should be. So lets recap here, U-11 input pin 2 stays high in game mode but its output pin 18 switches from a low (correct signal) to a high. This leads me to believe that U-11 is bad. But remember I'm no RD expert.

OK,
I have already ordered a couple logic chips for U-11 and sockets for it. Also a couple MOSFETS for Q10. I will probably take it to this TV electronics shop I talked to to have the socket put in. I am afraid to attempt this. So I will report back with results.
Do you think I should send it in to Rottendog instead?
Thanks

#2591 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

It's good to have a few spares on hand for the future, but Q-10 is still working correctly.

Yes, I won't change it. But like you said, it's good to have extras.
Thanks again!

3 weeks later
#2620 2 years ago

My F-14 was 1,445 in production and it still has the clear flasher domes and extra red flasher wiring as well as no light boards and larger score display etc..

1 week later
#2624 2 years ago

OK Grumpy,
Your advise about U11 was correct. It is repaired and pop bumper now works correctly in coil test mode. However, I have tried everything to get it working right from the spoon switch in game mode and even with skirt centered exactly on spoon and switch gaped to 1/16" it will only fire intermittently. The spoon switch is new as is every component of the pop bumper assembly. The capacitor is new and correct value. Resistor is also new (100 ohm). I have ordered new IDC connectors and the hand punch tool. Hopefully this may repair the problem. Can't imagine what else to do.
Thanks so much for your help!!

#2628 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I get lucky once in a while.

Have you checked the height of the switch? If you don't have enough spacers on the switch stack you maybe adding pressure to the skirt pin causing it to drag. If too many spacers the skirt will move a bit before the spoon does causing it to be unresponsive. Spacers that come with a new switch is only to get you in the ballpark, you may need to add or remove as needed. They come in 1/8 1/16 and 1/32 of an inch. And you can also use card stock to make your own = to 1/64.

I completely disassembled the stack switch and reconfigured it like the original with spoon switch at very bottom where it rests on mounting bracket. This is as close to perfect as I can get it. The skirt pin is centered in spoon and at rest, is not pushing but just touching. This is why I think it is a wiring problem causing signal loss at MPU. Most likely the old IDC connector. New ones are ordered. I will report back with findings.
Cheers!

#2630 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

A new board should have new connectors installed, but don't forget the molex connector on the harness in the cabinet.

GRUMPY,
You were right about spoon position. I needed to add a 1/32" shim between spoon and mounting bracket to get it just right. It was dragging the skirt pin a little. Amazing how perfect these have to be to work right!
Well, I was right about the wiring to spoon switch. It was a bad connection at the female IDC connector. Pop bumper now working correctly. I must be cursed, because no sooner did I finally get the stupid-ass pop bumper fixed, then the VUK stopped working. Guess what? Another bad IDC connector. The IDC Wire Insertion Tool I bought off Pinball Life sucks. It works, but very hard to make work right. And hard on your hand. I didn't want to deal with crimping, so I just bought new IDC connectors. None of the IDC connectors in the back box are blackened. They all look fine, but now I found two of them that had bad wire connections.
Now on to installing the LED OCD!!! Yay!!!!!!!!!!!
Thanks once again GRUMPY. You know your stuff!

#2631 2 years ago

Here is a pic of the IDC connectors and the IDC Wire Insertion Tool I bought from Pinball Life..

0.156" (3.96mm) IDC 9-Position Connector For 22 Gauge Wire IDC09-22

0.156" (3.96mm) IDC Wire Insertion Tool MRT-156F

idc09-22 (resized).jpg
mrt-156f (resized).jpg

#2635 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

I use that same IDC connector. lol
It is indeed hard on the hands.
We had 4, 9 pin IDC connectors that were clipped off our F-14.
My brother and I traded off after each connector because our arms were killing us.
We did make the process easier by using a small piece of wood in our other hand to press against.
But sometimes the wires were so short it was a real magic act to get it done.

Glad it's not just me!
Good idea about the small piece of wood!

#2636 2 years ago

Well tonight was the first time in almost 3 years (since I bought it) that I got to play on a fully restored and 100% working (well almost) F-14! What a rush!! This game rocks with all the LEDs and Pinball Pro speakers and extras! I haven't installed the LED OCD yet but WOW! What a blast! The playfield protector sure as hell does not slow it down. My only problem left now is to figure out why I am getting random tilts when racking up lots of points. It happened twice (no nudging at all) and I haven't yet nailed down the conditions as to when it happened. Just when lots of lights are going off and racking up points.
Any suggestions?

#2637 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

This is the tool I got from Swinks. I like it and it will last a life time.

Glad to hear it.

Cool!
I will order one.

#2642 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Let me know if you want to have more pop in your pop.

Hell yes. It's lame!

#2643 2 years ago

Well, I figured out what is causing the phantom tilts. These are not slam tilts, but regular loose ball only tilts. It happens when I quickly, alternately trigger the Left flipper and Left sling. I can reproduce it every time in game mode. Doesn't have to be multi-ball or anything special. I can't see anything wrong with wiring and I did replace the capacitors on both slings with 22uF 25V.
Also want to mention that I installed a new Rottendog power source as well as a Rottendog MPU board, so not going to be a voltage problem. 5 Volt is good. Pinscore display is working perfectly. My original power source had a bad voltage regulator and I didn't feel like messing with an IC chip replacement so I sold it on ebay and bought the Rottendog PSU. Nice test points and it fixed my dead LED segments on Pinscore. I suppose it could be another (you guessed it) bad IDC connector? F**K Me if it is!
Any further suggestions appreciated..

#2646 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Replace the diodes on both.

Diodes on both sling switches?

#2648 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Diodes on the coils.

Both left and right sling coils?
OK will do.
Thanks GRUMPY!
Not sure what you mean about high current driver for pop bumper coil though?

#2651 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

You can't drive a 50 volt coil directly from a TIP122 or a TIP102. You need to add a TIP36a in between the TIP102 and the coil.

Remember I have a Rottendog mpu board.
What about just installing a more powerful coil or removing windings from coil to reduce resistance?

#2655 2 years ago
Quoted from Buzz:

I was wondering about the flashers and using led's. I read about taking the warmer off the boards, but I was curious if I only did the playfield ones and not the back box or the row on the backboard if that is necessary. I saw a post that someone had stated this but didn't see an answer. I don't want to do any harm to it and not sure if I tried that the bulbs possible staying on a little would be the only thing that would happen. I just don't want to mess up an amazing 30yr old pin because I wanted to be blinded more. Any input is greatly appreciated.

I don't see any downside to doing that. But I also don't see any downside to eliminating all the warming resistors. Less problems. I used WARM WHITE for all the white flashers. Use the 89 Flat 8 smd type (Pinball Life) in the back box. I also used RED Flat 8 smd type in the rear because I have an early run machine with the clear flasher domes. They are not blinding at all. The only place I thought the flashers were too much was the three under the radar insert. I wound up using two blue and one warm white for that. It looks cool.
All the other playfield vertical flashers I used CoinTaker Super 5's

#2657 2 years ago
Quoted from Buzz:

Thank you all so much. I really appreciate everyone's insight on this. You all are awesome thank you for the fast responses.

You're very welcome.
Cheers!

#2659 2 years ago
Quoted from Bren-E:

Hey guys X-Pin have made a short run of "EARLY F-14" Tomcat / millionaire digital displays (See link)
https://xpinpinball.com/product/xp-wms11415-m/
Great spare, be quick
Bren-E

No,
The one you listed is the XP-WMS11415-M (Millionaire).
This one is the XP-WMS11415-F (Early F-14 and Space Station) https://xpinpinball.com/product/xp-wms11415-f/

The XP-WMS11610 is the (F-14 Late production model) https://xpinpinball.com/product/xp-wms11610/

For those of you that don't know about this, the early run F-14's had a different back box design that used the original millionaire display. If you install a later run compatible display in an early run machine, the connectors will not fit and the LED's will be too far back from the glass cover. It can be modded to fit, but will still be farther back and not look so good.
The two lamp socket holes on bottom left and right and missing Led displays in middle were for Millionaire. They were not used on F-14. See Pic below..
For later run display (XP-WMS11610) bottom pic, notice the lack of bottom section where lamps and extra LED displays were. This is a smaller board made to fit later run F-14 back box design.
** The early production displays only come in orange and cost $90.00 more than the orange later production display. But the later production displays come in other colors which cost the same as early production display.
="11415f (resized).jpg"]

11415f (resized).jpg

a4c638f5acd21135c0fd405cbf0e7904192d8d6f (resized).jpg

11610-O (resized).jpg

#2660 2 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

You dont need to remove any resistors. Just remove the ground wires off the boards and heat shrink . Thats it. Takes 15 mins and your done. Also super easy to restore back to original if you ever wanted to.

Yes, that works too, But I removed them. Not ever going back. I like 21 century tech! I even have an OCD LED controller.

#2661 2 years ago

That is the one which is compatible with the later run F-14's..
Cheers!

#2665 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

No left flipper and left sling coil.

Ok GRUMPY,
I changed the left flipper coil diodes and the left sling coil diode and no change. Still tilting.??

#2668 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Then the Left lane change switch and the left sling score switch diodes.

Will do!
I'm on it tomorrow evening. Will post results about same time.
Thanks again!

#2683 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Then the Left lane change switch and the left sling score switch diodes.

Changed both of these and still the random tilt. Checked the new diodes after I soldered them in and they are good.

#2691 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Last one I would change is the slam tilt diode on the coin door.

OK GRUMP,
That one didn't change anything either, however, while flipping the left flipper alone again and again (in game mode), and no balls rolling around at all, I noticed that the phonetic alphabet inserts (Alpha, Bravo, Charlie, Delta, Echo...etc.) are one by one lighting up until they are all lit up and I get a KILL!
WTF??

#2693 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Crap. It looks like the easy ideas are not working. Time to check them all now, that's a lot of fun. The alpha, bravo, Charlie sounds like a switch is set to tight. Vibration from the flipper is causing a switch to register.

So just check all the switch contacts for too close togetherness?

#2696 2 years ago

Ok, Will do this tomorrow after work.
Thanks much to both of you guys!

#2714 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Yagof switch#55 will light the alpha and bravo lights. Check this for being to close. That being said you should check diodes on switches 49 and 50.

OK, I separated #55 contacts with plastic and tried again, no change. Then I replaced diode, no change. As for switch #49, this is a new target switch and no problem with contacts touching.
I also discovered that the Yagov kickback solenoid fires whenever I get an Alpha, Bravo, Charlie, etc... strictly from firing left flipper. Can't find anything other than 'Left E.O.S' registering in switch edges-levels when firing the left flipper. I checked all the other switches mentioned as well and all the switch diodes with diode test on DMM. I am out of ideas.

#2715 2 years ago
Quoted from Toyguy:

Check the two standup targets just above the outhole drain area. Hitting those while the Kill lamp is on will spot one kill. Associated with that are the 2 inlane switches, so check those too.
Finally, hit the left out lane switch to fire the rescue coil, then see if Rescue delights in the Outland when hitting the flippers. If so, those same two center targets also serve that function so it would make them even more suspicious.

I'm not sure if I am following you. "Two standup targets just above the outhole drain area", you mean the tom cat targets? This has nothing to do with the kill lights and getting a kill.
"Finally, hit the left out lane switch to fire the rescue coil, then see if Rescue delights in the Outland when hitting the flippers."
Not following you here either. If you hit the left out lane switch and fire rescue coil, rescue delights. It has nothing to do with flipper.

#2717 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

This is the key here. the game thinks switch #55 has closed. Then it fires the coil and lights the alpha light.
You hit the left flipper, the left EOS closes, the game thinks switch #55 closed and fires Q-8 and sometime tilts the game. Does this still happen if you just manually lift the left flipper to close the EOS switch.

No, I tried that on both flippers.

#2719 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Remove and insulate both wires on the left lane change switch. Then retest by using the left flipper button.

Will do.
Thanks again GRUMPY.

#2721 2 years ago
Quoted from Toyguy:

The two targets right above the radar scope - those will score kills if the inlane light is light, you roll over the inlane switch and then hit one of those targets. I was wondering if those targets and/or the inlane switches were set too close and flipper vibration was causing them to close.
The Rescue kickback is lit by those same targets once it's been used, so it was just another test of them. If you spend the kickback, but it relight while whacking the flipper, they may be set too tight.
I rather doubt that's your problem, but it's quick to rule out.

OK,
I checked all these things and it's not the switches.
Thanks..

#2723 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

StylesBitchly
Did you rebuild this flipper, replace the EOS switch?

Yes.
I followed Vid's guide on rebuilding flippers closely and did everything suggested. Can't imagine where I could have messed that up. But knowing me, it's possible.
I will check the wiring and E.O.S. switch of the right flipper against the left flipper to see if there is an obvious mistake.
Thanks..

#2724 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Remove and insulate both wires on the left lane change switch. Then retest by using the left flipper button.

Checked wires very closely. No problems. Did find a lame solder joint and fixed it, but no change.

#2728 2 years ago

OK,
I finally figured out what the problem was, but for the life of me, I don't really understand why it caused the problem. Grumpy, you tipped me off when you mentioned that the E.O.S. switch was somehow getting power when it shouldn't. What it turned out to be was the wood screws running through the stack switch on left flipper were energizing the flipper assembly frame. Don't really understand how this was wreaking havoc. When the E.O.S. opened, it broke the circuit. I disassembled and reassembled the stack and it solved the problem. No more hot screws and no more free kills. I put my first high score on F-14 today....YA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
*The screws must have somehow been touching both the hot E.O.S. leaf and mounting bracket that supports the stack switch. *The Lane Change switch was unaffected according to continuity test??
Thanks again for all the help GRUMPY. YOU DA MAN!!!!!!!

#2729 2 years ago
Quoted from Toyguy:

Is there any fishpaper between the two switches? If that's worn through you could get some connectivity where you don't want it.

Yes, I did make sure the fish paper was correctly installed between switches.
Thanks

#2732 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Do you have the insulation tubes in the stack spacers?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/3A-7007-114

Yes, those appeared to be built in to the stack switch assemblies. I even checked with my DMM to make sure they were insulated. But I never knew these were offered separately. It does lead me to wonder how the screws ever made contact though?
Thanks..

#2735 2 years ago

I just installed the OCD LED controller on F-14. The LED's now behave exactly like incandescent bulbs. Nice smooth fade in and out. Very liquid and no ghosting at all. Beautiful light show! Well worth the money to me. And easy to install.

Now for my last issue. About half the time the diverter lands a ball into the left or right center eject trough, it will either wait to kick it out or I have to hit a flipper to get it to launch ball. Like I said, it's only about half the time this happens. The habitrail switches work well and also the trough switches in switch test using ball. So I am stumped as to what is going on here?

#2738 2 years ago

OK, I done removing evil pink crimp connectors and soldering wires to switch tabs. That fixed the right kicker. The left one required me to remove eject switch and drill mounting holes in different location. This has been an ongoing issue with the repro playfield. Holes are not in exactly the same position so problems arise. Anyone without patience should avoid a playfield swap. Looks like my pain is at an end! Time to play pinball!!!
Thanks for all the help Grand Master GRUMPY!

#2739 2 years ago

I will post some pics and video link when I get time..
Cheers!

#2741 2 years ago

Here are some pics of the finished project with new repro playfield and plastics and cabinet decals and LED lighting with OCD LED controller installed. Also new Rottendog MPU board and power source and Pinscore LED Display, Pinball Pro Speakers and under cab LED lighting. Many other improvements and mods as well.

DSCN0769 (resized).JPG
DSCN0771 (resized).JPG

DSCN0773 (resized).JPG
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DSCN0778 (resized).JPG
DSCN0780 (resized).JPG

IMG_1359 (resized).JPG

New Playfield 08 (resized).JPG

New Playfield 02 (resized).JPG

New Playfield 06 (resized).JPG

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Added 13 months ago:

#2744 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Remind me where the cab decals came from please?

Bay Area Amusements.

#2746 2 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

It's like brand new!!!
My OCD would FORCE me to get rid of all those IDC connectors. I hate those things.

Yes, I spent too much money on this game, but that is my CDOness! I have to admit though, F-14 is in a class all it's own and so much fun to me. I really can't think of a pin I would rather have fully restored.
Cheers!

photo-253 (resized).jpg

#2747 2 years ago

Here is a shot of the 'Metal-Mods F-14 Tomcat Chrome Cap decals' I installed today. Really nice. Be very careful while installing. The chrome scratches easily and it is a challenge to line up perfectly. I used an Xacto Knife to position it.
I also added some target decals to the front Kill/Rescue targets. I used an EK Tools Circle Punch, 0.75-Inch for the decals and mylar covers and a standard hole punch for the center rivet. If you stick decal over rivet it will look like crap. I'm pretty sure I downloaded the decal art from mbott1701 on page 8 this thread. It is inkjet printed onto matt white sticky-back vinyl.

02 (resized).JPG

#2749 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Look at that score! Practice, practice, practice. : ))

It was my wife!!!
I promise!

#2750 2 years ago

How is this?
Better?

011 (resized).jpg

#2752 2 years ago
Quoted from Travish:

It doesn't count unless the glass is on.

Windows Paint allows for super high score even with glass on!

#2754 2 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

White lower flippers and yellow upper ones - my OCD is kicking into high gear.

Yes! and that was on purpose. I think my therapy is working.

#2762 2 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Ahhh... Got it.

lol..
Perhaps I should have said "Windows 10 Paint program" to be more clear.
Cheers!

#2768 2 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

I don't mind the extra work... It will be interesting to see how it turns out. I'll be ordering a stencil kit from Pinball Pimp. The 1st order will be for a Eight Ball Deluxe, then F14, Firepower & Embryon. F14 Firepower have a lot of planking.

Sorry to inform you, but I tried to go the route of stencils for F-14 but nobody makes them. So, to be or not to be.
See my thread:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/twistedpinscom-is-a-ripoff
Also,
I wouldn't say stencils are more work. If you want your decals to look good, you have to do a lot of prep work or every tiny flaw will show through.

Added over 2 years ago: Pinball Pimp now makes stencils for F-14 Tomcat.

#2769 2 years ago

Can any one tell me why my F-14 sometimes locks two balls in the left or right center eject? It usually happens on the left side. I checked and re-checked all the habitrail switches and trough switches with ball in switch test and they always work fine and I already eliminated the red crimp connectors and soldered wires directly to micro switch tabs. Also, all solenoids are functioning in coil test correctly.

#2775 2 years ago

Any help for my question above?
Thanks

#2777 2 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

I'm no help for you styles! Mine is still in pieces.

The fun is yet to come !

#2790 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Do you mean that 2 balls may both go to the left eject. And other times 2 balls may go in the right eject. Does the first ball lock correctly in the lower right lock before they lock in the left- right eject. You may have a flaky diode or switch on any or all 3 lock switches.

Yes.
Oh, it figures!

#2791 2 years ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

Are you asking why sometimes it locks 1 ball other times 2?when you complete tomcat once it locks 1 ball if you complete tomcat twice before locking or losing a ball it will lock 2.

It locks two balls in the same trough at the same time. Mostly on the left but sometimes on the right.

#2793 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

But does this happen after you lock the first ball?

OK,
I'll have to play some more to verify this GRUMP.

#2796 2 years ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

So I noticed the little bar in town had 2 pinball machines and last time I was in they only had 1. So I found time to stop in and see what it was and lo and behold it was F-14. And probably the darkest,dimmest,hardest F-14 I ever played. Well after about eight games I was finally getting my eyes adjusted to the game and finally got the multi-ball and when them flasher started going off the whole bar just stopped and looked to see what was going on and the bartender was like holy shit nobody's ever done that before. And the sad thing was my score still wasn't high enough to beat the default high scores.

That's because these kids today don't know what a Pinball machine is!

#2797 2 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

I second that!

I third it!

#2798 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

But does this happen after you lock the first ball?

OK GRUMPY,
I had two red diverter lights lit and after my ball drained, I launched next ball and it locked in the left center trough. Then the next ball I launched also went into the left center trough (two balls there now). No ball was in, or went to the far right lock and no ball in the right center lock. Then, there they sit for quite a while before machine kicks them out. Hitting flippers does nothing to release the balls.

#2799 2 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Thanks for the link.
There is quite a bit of planking on all sides of the cabinet. Would I need to fill the lines in before applying the decals to achieve a really nice/smooth look?

Yes, the surface needs to be totally smooth and flat.

I followed this procedure very close (see link below and click on restorations then Cactus Canyon then Cabinet). I used one coat of this poly instead of the 3 coats he used (less work) and odor. (This is to prep the cabinet for decal).

0121 (resized).jpg
He removes a decal, but I used citrus paint remover to remove the paint. It works great and no odor or toxic fumes (can do inside). **Make sure you wear rubber gloves or your hands will burn and be stained for a month!**

I rented a nice sander for this and did the sanding outside.

http://www.webring.org/l/rd?ring=pinball;id=120;url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww%2Erobertwinter%2Ecom%2Fpinball%2Findex%2Ehtml

#2800 2 years ago

Also, use J-B Weld 8257 KwikWood Wood Repair Epoxy for corner repairs. It is hard and will not beak off like wood putty.

I also used the dry method for installing decal. He uses the wet method. Dry is easy and less messy. Just watch some YouTube videos on Dry Method for installing decals. Make sure you install front decal first and align the side decals properly with the front.

epoxy (resized).jpg

#2802 2 years ago

OK GRUMP. I'll get on it.
Thanks again!

#2809 2 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Styles is deff correct on the lining up of the decals. I did not do so well on that part. I did end up using the dry method on the rest of my decals as I was not happy with the wet. Just take your time and be mindful of looking for air bubbles. Have lots of light so you can get different views of decal while you do it. Will help with seeing the bubbles in decal.

The front red block and side red block should match up evenly, but mine didn't either. Just match other side to this side so it's uniform and it looks fine. The factory decal registration is off.
Also, use a squeegee or some kind of straight edge tool with a flat edge to apply decal.

#2810 2 years ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

I'm so rooting for you StylesBitchly to get your f14 working 100%. Grumpy got 2 of my machines back on the road and life has never been so good.the wife hasn't complained about pinball machines in the living room since and has even caught that 1 more game feeling.
Grumpy is better than a marriage counselor !!

LOL!!
Hear that GRUMP! So this means I can put pinball machines in the living room too!

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#2811 2 years ago

Well, today I played a whole bunch of F-14 and guess what? I discovered that the out-hole kicker had a broken spring. For some reason, it usually reset ok, but every now and then it wouldn't. This would explain why the computer was loosing track of the balls. After fixing it, I have not had the two-ball multi-ball experience again. I will just have to wait and see. Not going to count chickens before they hatch....again!
Thanks for the tip GRUMPY!

#2813 2 years ago

Oh, and one more thing I figured out!
I decided to adjust my pop bumper again to get it even more sensitive. I wound up machine gunning it and blowing the lower playfield 2.5 amp fuse again. Only this time I was prepared. I had blown the U-11 logic chip on my Rottendog MPU board last time I did this, so I replaced the 2.5 amp SLOW BLOW with a 2.5 amp FAST BLOW. My U-11 chip still works. So apparently, you need to change this fuse if you install a Rottendog MPU board.
Cheers!

#2815 2 years ago
Quoted from Buzz:

Is that your real living room? Totally digging the gnomes and shag ottoman.

No, my machines are down in my walk out basement.
I don't think my wife would allow machines in the living room.

#2822 2 years ago
Quoted from Buzz:

I have one in mine that is supposed to move, but I have procrastinated for like 3 or so months hopping she will finally give up. It helps that she plays probably as much if not more. You should try you never know.

Dude!
You are my hero with that game room of yours! You wife is definitely cool!

#2823 2 years ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

I have 6 in my living room and the only reason I'm thinking of relocating to the basement us I can only fit about 8 in the living room and I'm not stopping at 8.

You Detroit dudes are BADASS!

"If you know how many pinball machines you own, you don't have enough."

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2 weeks later
#2827 2 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Looking to get some parts from PBL. Making a list, If any of you happen to have the flipper fidelity speakers, I need to know which one to get. Thanks!

Don't know about Flipper Fidelity, but Pinball Pro makes one for System 11. These are what I have. I didn't bother with the sub woofer. I don't think you need it. The audio fidelity is just not there in these old games to support it.
http://pinballpro.net/shop/williams-system-11-backbox-speaker-kit-tr-11/

If you want to replace the woofer, I used this one and it works great. Pyramid WX65X 6.5" sub woofer.
https://www.parts-express.com/pyramid-wx65x-6-1-2-white-poly-woofer--290-270

Also, I had problems with the sound cutting out when I first bought the machine. It turned out to be a bad volume pot. I installed a 10k ohm at first and it was too sensitive to adjust the volume. I reinstalled a 5k ohm and it works perfectly. This is an audio taper pot.
https://www.parts-express.com/5k-audio-taper-potentiometer-1-4-shaft--023-608?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=pla

#2828 2 years ago

Do any of you guys have a problem with F-14 pop bumper contacts not staying put? I keep adjusting it for max sensitivity and it works well for a day or two and then becomes insensitive again. I am bending the large metal bar that is supposed to hold the leaf in position, but it still moves out of position. Is there a proper way to bend this bar so it stays put?
Thanks.

#2831 2 years ago
Quoted from gutz:

Are the switch stack screws tight?

Yes, very tight and with lock washers. The entire switch stack is brand new. The skirt pin is centered and not pressing but just touching. I used the flashlight from above trick. I know it's the contacts spreading out. I just can't believe the thick support leaf is not holding steady, but it isn't.
Also FYI, I originally bought the pop bumper switch stack assembly from Pinball Life and it is junk. I later bought the one from Marco Specialties and it's much better quality (same size as original). The Pinball Life one is shorter in length and height and also has a black spoon which sucks for centering skirt pin (can't see through it).

#2837 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

It sounds like the adjustment tab is not as strong as it should be. Instead of bending the whole thing forward to make the contacts tighter try to use a pair of small needle-nose pliers and bend the end of the adjustment tab forward at an angle. This may help to maintain a more consistent gap.

Good idea!
I tried bending it at the base with needle nose pliers and haven't had time to play it long enough to see if that will work, but if not, I will try your idea next.
Thanks!

#2838 2 years ago

Anyone know what TOP SECRET: Multi-Ball Special at bottom means?

F14_600dpi (resized).png

1 week later
#2847 2 years ago
Quoted from gutz:

During multiball you have to hit EACH tomcat target, all six upper and all six lower (they no longer count both upper/lower letters with one hit) and that will light the outlane for special.

3 landings earns you a jackpot, multiple jackpots can be earned during the same multiball. Once landed, the balls feed to the kickouts and are released back into play.

Well in that case. I would have a better chance of running for President and winning! I still haven't landed all three balls!. Two, but not three. Only beat the computer 2nd high score just barely. I may have it set too steep. I need to cut a 7 degree wood jig so I know how to set the angle properly. Is there a better way to do this?
Then again, maybe I just suck!

#2849 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

These work for this.
ebay.com link » Digital Inclinometer Spirit Level Box Protractor Angle Finder Gauge Meter Bevel

Awesome!
I shall order one!
Even if the ebay seller goes by the name of snakewang2005.
Thanks again GRUMPY!!
Added over 2 years ago: Well, the Digital Inclinometer came in and I had my F-14 set to 7.8 degrees. Also discovered the front was slightly off level left to right. I now have played dozens of games on it and it plays much better. Actually averaging much better scores and it's more fun to play. I finally got it dialed in perfectly. What a great game! I also noticed that having the pop bumper set to high sensitivity makes all the difference in the upper playfield action. This is an absolute must for F-14 !!
Thanks again GRUMPY!
Added over 2 years ago: 7 degrees is plenty steep. Any more would make this game too hard IMO.

Added over 2 years ago: 7 degrees is the correct angle from the manual.

1 week later
#2861 2 years ago
Quoted from prostock32:

I'm in the club now, my question is does anyone have or know where i could buy just the head decals? The right side of my head is atrocious, the paint is flaked terribly but the rest of the cabinet is in decent shape. Or does anyone have the art in vector format fow me to get them printed at my local shop? Thanks!

Ya, I only wanted both the right side and front cabinet decals. But you can only buy the entire set. However, once you do the whole cab, it is really nice and you won't regret it.
I would look at frisket and air brushing with Createx air brush paint. Go read Vid's guide on playfield restoration. He talks about using frisket and airbrushing. No reason you can't do it on a cabinet unless the art is wiped out. It's a lot of work, but if you only need to do one side of the back box it's very doable. You will start with the black and then the red and then yellow and finally white. A good winter project.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-ultimate-playfield-restoration/page/2#post-629391

1 week later
#2867 2 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

It sounds like the adjustment tab is not as strong as it should be. Instead of bending the whole thing forward to make the contacts tighter try to use a pair of small needle-nose pliers and bend the end of the adjustment tab forward at an angle. This may help to maintain a more consistent gap.

Ok it’s been a while now. The advise you offered did the trick. Contacts have been holding steady, so this is the proper way to bend an adjustment tab for contacts.
Thanks much!!

#2868 2 years ago

Last night while I had a friend over for F-14 battle, we noticed that both the right and left flippers are causing random scoring to occur, but only in 100 point increments at a time. Can't locate any tight switches that could be causing this. Any other suggestions as to the cause?
Thanks

#2872 2 years ago

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#2873 2 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Check diode elements at flipper coils and scoring switches at the slingshots.
Take care, the scoring switches are mounted under the playfield, the both on top behind the slings are for slingshots coils only!

Good thinking!
I never thought to check those!
Thanks

OK,
I figured out what was going on. It turned out to be the blue target switch at bottom right. I must have missed that one first time around. I tested each target individually with a piece of paper between contacts while chimp flipping away. Also discovered that the orbit left roll under feather switch was also intermittently scoring 1000 points. Both properly gapped now. Problem solved!
Thanks.

#2895 2 years ago

I finally figured out what "Ripoff" means on F-14.
I took the glass off to verify this. I am posting this for other F-14 players that may not know this.
System 11 games are known for lock stealing. And F-14 has this feature when playing multi player games.
If player one locks any balls, the next player (player two) only has to spell TOM CAT to qualify the locked ball and doesn't have to re-lock the ball by shooting the new ball into the launch VUK. Say player one has all three balls locked and then drains before getting multiball, player two only needs to spell tom cat for each locked ball and then spell it again (a fourth time) to light Ripoff and you get the multiball for shooting Ripoff. So you Ripped off the previous players locked balls. You never actually had to lock the balls.
Player two will get to re-lock his balls again at start of turn, but the previous player does gain the advantage here.
Cool man!

#2907 2 years ago

Why are my black rubber shooter tips wearing out so fast on F-14?
These are the ones off Marco Specialties. I can't find any other type online. They all appear to be the same cheap quality. I remember getting one in my Sharkey's Shootout rubber kit that was heavy duty. This is what I need. Can't find them online.

#2914 2 years ago
Quoted from nightsearcher:

All my shooter tips come from Titan. I believe they are silicon

They don't sell plunger tips only. You have to buy a kit.

#2921 2 years ago

I will try these white ones, but I thought the black ones would be more durable. They are breaking down in only a couple months. Maybe I got a bad batch. And I am not using any solvents or cleaners on them.
Cheers!

#2922 2 years ago
Quoted from nightsearcher:

Not sure what Titan does now, but I bought a bunch separately, same as my rings 1 1/2 to 2 years ago. Surely titan doesn’t just sell kits now. i need to buy some more stock soon

It looks to be the case now. If you find them sold separately, let me know!

#2923 2 years ago

Alert the media!

I finally landed all three balls! Almost in a row too!

I have my machine set for three ball but, set to get extra balls rather than extra games. It awards an extra ball at 1,700,000. This mode also skips that annoying game match sequence at end of game so you can quickly start a new game after you get boned. I really like this setting the best!

#2926 2 years ago

Yes!
Considering my ramrod isn’t what it used to be.

#2936 2 years ago
Quoted from Boof-Ed:

Thank you. I feel so stupid yet relieved that it was something so simple.

FYI, I had a Pinscore LED display in mine when I bought it. The digits were messed up with segments out and it turned out to be a weak power source. LED displays run off 5 volts. If you have the original plasma displays, then it's the high voltage section of you power supply. But weak voltage can cause this as well.

#2937 2 years ago

I just dropped a deposit on a TNA ! My first NIB pin. I never thought I would do this.
Between F-14 and this TNA pin, it proves I'm a glutton for punishment!

#2940 2 years ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

Possibly have the match feature turned off?

Yes, I have it turned off on mine, but the table lighting still enters attract mode after a game ends. I would restore it to factory settings first and see what it does.

2 weeks later
#2980 2 years ago

Hell yes!
That thing is light years better condition than mine was.

2 weeks later
#3004 1 year ago

You can edit your post if it's new. No need to double post!

1 month later
#3107 1 year ago

How tight do you guys make your leg bolts? My F-14 seems to be too solid. Nudging is too difficult. I must have them too tight. What say yous guys?

#3109 1 year ago
Quoted from Averell:

Why on earth you don't go to a local welding shop to repair the ramp?
Easy job with laser equipment... I also had the problem and it's fixed now.
Later you can galvanize the ramp with chrom then it's better as new.

Yes, I had to bring mine to a welding shop. Cost me $10.00. The left side or the shooter lane habitrail broke right at the entrance.

Added 21 months ago: FYI, I did try soldering it first and this did not hold for very long.

#3110 1 year ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

You want them fairly tight. Otherwise they will gouge the cabinet. Nudging has nothing to do with how tight the legs are.

OK, so how come the new arcade in town which I just came back from has 4 machines: Metalica Pro, Ghost Busters Pro, Star Wars Pro, and Guns & Roses and they are all by far more wobbly and easy to nudge?

#3115 1 year ago
Quoted from statictrance:

Looser legs mean more sway in the cabinet mean a more active tilt bob... Sometimes you see it on location to keep machine abuse down (in my experience). Again, it'll damage the corner cabs - but if you're worried about people wailing on your equipment it might be worth it for some ops.

Thanks for the answer. This is what I suspected. I would probably do the same if I was an operator.

2 weeks later
#3143 1 year ago
Quoted from CoitusMysterioso:

I just purchased an F-14 Tomcat as my first SS Pin. I've been wanting one of these or a High Speed and this one came up locally a couple of weeks ago.
Its in good condition with very minimal PF wear and only a little mylar bubbling over a couple inserts. Currently its completely stock but I am planning to go fully LED within the next few weeks. I am also contemplating installing a PF protector but haven't decided on that one yet.
Man I love this game!!! It makes all of my EM machines feel super slow!

I recommend also installing an OCD led controller. I did, and the lights are liquid smooth just like incandescents. Very easy to install and worth it for F14. Just be sure you do not use non ghosting leds. You can, but this somewhat defeats the purpose of the controller. They will be smoother if they are standard rather than non ghosting leds. I used Pinballife Ablaze 4-SMD super brights for all the cpu controlled lighting. Regular frosted for GI lighting. Don’t worry about it being too bright because the OCD led controller by default cuts the bulb brightness level to 85% to prevent ghosting. Just awesome compared to stock lighting!
http://ledocd.com/

As for the play field protector, I installed one of the original thicker ones and wound up removing it a few weeks later. It sucked. Crap keeps getting under it and is really annoying. You can lift it in spots and blow out debris with high pressure air but I got tired of that and also, the underside of protector can get scratched up by the playfield itself. I had to do a lot of trimming to make it fit and that is not fun. The new ones out now are thinner and easier to trim however. But I would just wax first and install Mylar if you are concerned about high traffic areas. Spend that money on the led controller. More better!

83E1648C-C919-48E9-9B9A-41C80BB322E5 (resized).jpeg

#3145 1 year ago

Remember to use warm white lights if under a colored insert if you want to maintain accurate insert color. Also be sure to use warm white frosted above play field if it is really exposed to your eyes. Cool white is hard on my eyes unless under an insert or hidden from direct view. I also recommend using warm white flashers (if you’re going with led flashers you need to remove warming resistors). Warm white looks like incandescent bulbs. Of course blue frosted GI looks great under blue plastics and red and blue leds look great under same color inserts. Comet is good! You will def get ghosting if not using a led controller, so if not, get non ghosting leds for all cpu controlled lights. You have to decide before dropping the cash.
** Remember, there is no need for non ghosting bulbs for GI lighting.

#3148 1 year ago
Quoted from RonSS:

Huh, I thought cool white was recommended due to the blue tone.
If you can, try one of each in some different locations and see what you like.
I agree about any light that is above playfield and visible. The last thing you want is a blinding light!
This is fun, right?!!!

No, warm white is like sunlight. That cool white has more blue like you said which is unnatural and makes color look like shit! This is why they don't recommend that you use them in your house unless it's like the kitchen or basement. Your eyes evolved to see color in sunlight, not fake cool white.

webcontent.lighting-learn-more-colortemp-chart (resized).png

#3149 1 year ago
Quoted from statictrance:

Wait - So you use the cheap LEDs with LEDOCD?
hmm... methinks I might re-evaluate the cost of that board. i built up a stock of Non-ghosting just a few months ago when I bought my F-14 and getting like 50 of each type/color in was painful as hell.

Yes, this explained here on the OCD LED site.
http://ledocd.com/faq_led.html

That's why it would suck to decide to go OCD after investing in expensive non ghosting leds. Trust me, this controller corrects all the problems with ghosting and flicker and that jagged on-off look. My Sharkey's is next to my F-14 and it has all non ghosting LEDs for the CPU controlled, but has no OCD controller and the difference is very apparent. Without the controller, the light show is jagged and harsh by comparison. F-14 has too awesome of a light show to not exploit the best you can IMHO.

#3150 1 year ago


Currently at work replacing several IDC connectors with Molex connectors and Trifurcon crimps. Slow somewhat tedious process, but with a little practice I'm humming along now just fine. I bought this open barrel crimper at:
http://pinrestore.com/Tools.html

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#3152 1 year ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

I agree with most of this but if your blue arrow inserts are faded like many are on F14 some blue LEDs will bring it right back to life.

Yes, I used blue and red leds under the arrow inserts on my new repro play field and they look awesome and they weren’t even faded. I did use warm white for all the amber inserts and most white inserts. I used cool white under some white inserts to add some variety and used purple under the three kill lights.

#3155 1 year ago
Quoted from stumptown:

Here's mine done up entirely with warm white frosted non-ghosting (save the lock and landing ones that would've had rubbers originally) from Pinballbulbs. I kept the flashers incandescent since LED flashers look like crap and it would've been extra effort to switch them in besides.
» YouTube video
In the process of doing Big Guns the same way, will be nice to ditch the bad color coordination job someone did in the backbox before I got it...

I don't know how you can say LED flashers look like crap? I used warm white as well as red and blue Super 5's by Cointaker and warm white 8-smd flat flashers in back box and red 8-smd in back wall, and they look just as good if not better than incandescent IMO. With LED flashers you can have the various colors. Perhaps you witnessed crappy quality flashers? Plus, on F-14, you can remove all those problematic warming resistors which like to desolder themselves and break loose. And reduce the amp draw on your wiring harness. It took me like 10 min to remove warming resistors. But, what ever blows your hair back.

#3159 1 year ago
Quoted from stumptown:

They're overpoweringly bright and cast harsher shadows (same reason a lot of people don't like LED street lamps). I've run them in other tables and pulled them out again in favor of going back to incandescents. Can't imagine running them in a game like F-14 that is already extremely bright to begin with. If someone came out with a diffused flasher I might take another shot at them, but the bare LED stacks are just painful to look at. That said, different strokes... It's ultimately a matter of taste and opinion.

This is why I use Warm White flashers. The cool whites are blinding as you have stated. I see no real difference between Warm white flashers and incandescent ones. Also colored flashers with colored covers are not any more blinding either. At least not to me.

2 weeks later
#3193 1 year ago

The pins are numbered anti-clockwise around the IC (chip) starting near the notch or dot. The diagrams show the numbering for 8-pin and 14-pin ICs, but the principle is the same for all sizes.

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#3194 1 year ago

You beat me to it Grump. I shall stay out of your way!

#3214 1 year ago
Quoted from RVApinballer:

Any leads on a left slingshot plastic? New, old, doesn't matter.
Thanks!

I might have one at home. If so, it will be faded but I will PM you when I get home tonight.

#3216 1 year ago

I have other used F-14 plastics if anyone is interested.

#3219 1 year ago

That red powder coat is great!
How did you do the speaker grill mods? They are cool!
How come your habit rails look gold in some pics and silver in others?

#3221 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

You wouldn't have the center Kill target plastic? Mine has 2 big chips in the bottom edge, very blinding when the flasher goes off.

No, sorry to say it was one of the broken ones when I bought the machine.

#3228 1 year ago
Quoted from BigLebowski:

A friend of mine printed them for me - wasn´t exactly cheap, though.
I have a spare set if you´re interested....
The habitrails are chrome, the gold is just my lousy photographing skills......

LOL!
I think the gold looks cool!
Thanks, but I already spent way too much on F-14.

#3232 1 year ago

Here is a pic of the hardest IDC connector to convert to a Molex connector. Unlike most connectors where the single wires terminate at the IDC connector, this one has all wires passing through (wire in and out). You have to splice both wires to a third wire (see all the blue shrink wrap) which gets the Trifurcon crimp. All wiring is soldered. Takes a little time.

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#3234 1 year ago

I feel like a proud Papa!
Now you can DDDDDDD-Die in style!
Cheers!

#3238 1 year ago

I would agree!

Looks like both transistors cooked and probably the R19 and all adjacent resistors.. Ouch!!

This should be a 2.5A slow blow under playfield. With playfield up, it will be towards bottom right.

FYI, I changed this fuse to a 2.5 A Fast Blow (because I blew the U-11 logic chip on my Rottendog MPU board once while adjusting the pop bumper) and have never had it blow under normal play. You might want to try this after fixing that board just to be extra safe.

#3248 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

So if you short plunge the ball off and on the shooter lane switch ( like what kids do) the coil will stay on longer then it can handle after @ 4 plunges and melt down.

Grand Master Grumpy!
I'm glad you explained this! I did not know it.

#3252 1 year ago
Quoted from Indusguys:

That makes a lot of sense. My buddy who owns the game said it was working great, had his grandkids over and all of sudden the game wasn't working.

Why I didn't pro create..

#3263 1 year ago

So I would still put a 1 amp slow blow fuse on each of the diverter coils, then you will not even ruin the coil.

I have a Rottendog Board so I shall do this!
Thanks again GRUMPY.

#3287 1 year ago

Hail to the King!!

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1 week later
#3302 1 year ago

I just did an experiment.
I just compared two 89 flashers side by side on my F-14. One was an incandescent, the other, a WARM WHITE Cointaker Super5 LED. My wife and I could not see any difference between the two at all! Notice I said WARM WHITE. COOL WHITE is too bright and annoying IMO. And this was without the warming resistor installed.

#3306 1 year ago
Quoted from RonSS:

I'll give you this, it is beyond clear you DO NOT care for cool white LEDs.

Not for flashers or above playfield. I do use them under clear inserts in places.

#3307 1 year ago

Check the fuse with an ohm meter. Remove it first. I have found bad fuses that looked good.

#3308 1 year ago

I have a question about the Launch Lane VUK Saucer. I've been having a problem with the ball bouncing back out of it during play. A direct shot up there often (about 50% of the time) just bouces out. This is so frustrating, especially during multi ball. I have tried adjusting the guard rails and stop up there to no success. Any suggestions?

Added 19 months ago: Solved!
See below..

#3309 1 year ago

Thanks to vid1900, I solved the problem above.
Here are some pictures. Notice the first one where the ball stop is square to the saucer hole? It needs to be angled counter clockwise slightly to kill the ball energy so it drops down into hole and not bounce out. As I stated before, these repro playfields have holes that are not drilled in exactly the same place so these adjustments are needed. I just epoxied shut one screw hole and drilled another to set the stop at an angle. It plays great now. No bounce backs!

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1 week later
#3319 1 year ago

Papa's gota new bag! I mean new avatar.

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#3321 1 year ago
Quoted from trimoto:

I don't know this game that well is there a two ball MB and Four ball ?. Sometimes ill get two balls kicked out of the locks by the center pop bumper . I did put it on easy maybe that's it IDK . thanks James

No two ball, you have a problem. First ball should go to far right lock. Then one in left center and one in right center lock. Only 3 ball multi's not counting ball in play.
Goto page 56 in this thread and start at post #2769 (me) and follow along. GRUMPY helped me with this. I had a broke spring on the out hole kicker. Computer was loosing track of ball. Also, ball lock trough switches not registering can cause this.

1 week later
#3334 1 year ago

You're not alone! I fried my U11 logic chip on my new Rottendog MPU board adjusting my pop bumper because the 2.5 amp slow blow fuse didn't blow in time. After repairing, I installed a 2.5 amp fast blow fuse instead.

#3338 1 year ago
Quoted from RVApinballer:

Had my father in law over to play some F14 this weekend, he loved it! Instantly was like "wow this game is cool, when did it come out again?!?"

1987

1 week later
#3365 1 year ago
Quoted from miatawnt2b:

Figured it out. The linkage had a bunch of slop because I didn't completely tighten it. So moving the flipper by hand led me to believe the eos switches we're properly adjusted. They were, but when the solenoid did the work they would remain closed. Tighten everything up properly and it's golden.
-J

Bingo!
I have seen this mentioned before on pinside. Always adjust using the solenoid plunger, not the flipper.
Cheers!

3 weeks later