L-1. From an era when they had enough time to finish the software before release.

There are a couple unofficial ones related to tournaments - one with a fixed jackpot value for all players, one with 8 digit 2x16 display update, one with a proc/dmd, probably others.

Did you replace the activation switches and the cap/resistor combo?

Not according to the manual they didn't - it's a 23-800 just like all the other common coils of the time. If anything the close flippers that are up there are what's going to hammer the standups. Just looked to see if they did the weaker coils for the flippers, and nope, 11630's standard strength. You could run the EOS gap wider to weaken it if you wanted. My machine was pretty well used when I got it and none of the standups are mashed.

They did have an issue with the extra flashers getting smashed though which is why they were removed.

Sounds like you're missing the power chain to those solenoids - there's really nothing in common otherwise since the 2 diverters are on 2 of the special solenoid circuits, and one of the center lane lock locations is on the A/C circuits, and another is just a regular solenoid. If your other solenoids are working like the outhole kicker and shooter lane eject, the bridge is likely ok.

You can test the outputs of the transistors at their connectors with a logic probe and make sure they ground when they are supposed to fire - easiest if you advance the solenoid test to the solenoid in question and pause it there with the auto/manual switch.

I have an ancient Radioshack one but there is a thread someone on pinside specifically regarding logic probes. You can use a multimeter as well, and just measure to ground, it might average out the voltage though depending on how fast it's switching, and the meter might not ever 'settle'.

Now that I think about it, the logic probe might be the wrong tool for this anyway - good for everything BEFORE the transistor (like PIA chip outputs and the predriver transistor input).

That's not a resistor, it's a capacitor intended to minimize arcing on the end of stroke switch. If your coil sleeve will no longer go into the flipper coil, it's toasted. The capacitor being busted off may or may not have something to do with the EOS locking on. (If it was broken and the switch was adjusted too closely, an arc could hold the eos together as a temporary type weld)

The coil sleeve not going into the coil means the coil has been heat damaged, and yes, it's like the bobbin shrunk.

When the flipper is at rest that's what you want. When it flips is when you want it open. Coil will burn up before long if you like to hold up the flippers (why the flipper fuse never blows in this situation I dunno you'd think it would....)

Yes, when the flipper is at rest, that switch is what provides the high voltage to the flipper - when you flip, it opens at the full stroke, so you do not burn up the flipper coil. There is still voltage in the flipper to hold it up (that's what the second, higher set of numbers means on some flipper coils - for instance some are labeled 25-450/34-5050 - this means the power stroke is 450 winds of 25 gauge wire, and the hold coil is 5050 winds of 34 gauge wire. Williams flipper coils like the 11630 aren't labeled that way, but they are still constructed the same way.).

If it's similar to a kicker arm you bend it or twist the head to adjust the trajectory. It might also be very worn (slop in the side to side motion) so adjustment might not work.

Alternately, is the rubber on the post its hitting too fat?

They might be ball guides that will help guide it out as well - I haven't been under the center section of my F-14 PF in a long time so don't know for sure. I do know it sucks when the ball doesn't do what you expect....

So what fixed your issue? the +5v or the PIA?

There is one on the mpu board already because the original batteries were normal AA. If someone had some other kind of setup in the game though double check. IIRC it's either D1 or D2.

Yep Williams shipped with proto roms when that was what was available. Any of your favorite ROM burning services can get you the latest. Upgrade sound roms as well if they are proto.

Where are they used? Usually you can get the straight actuator microswitch and bend to suit.

On the ramps? Looks like the one SonOfaDiddly linked to would work there. You can also move your actuators if you have them over to a new microswitch. Are you sure the switches are bad? Sometimes you have to loosen the mount and rotate it to get it work again. I had to do that on mine for sure and I'm pretty sure I moved the actuator over to another new switch for one of them.

Yeah gotta adapt what is available. Sounds daunting but pretty easy with some pliers.

The lane guide try cliffy passion for pinball he makes a lot of them and if not for f14 yet he might be interested in doing so.

There is no traditional ball save on it. Flight insurance is only for yakov return or third ball if you have shitty ball time.

Extra ball is fly again.

If it says you are insured it should relaunch the ball if it doesn't your trough switches might not be working right.

When you enter adjustments the rom version will show. The latest is L-1, the only other released version is the prototype which I think shows as P-9? Not sure on that one.

If you don't have batteries backing up your ram it will show 'adjust failure' on bootup. Be very careful if you decide to put the nvram in - you'll need a socket in most cases as they were originally soldered in, and there are 2 different types of ram that are used on system 11 boards so your nvram will have to match what you have, or you need to change jumpers. If you are not experienced with desoldering relatively delicate traces do not attempt to do it.

The other adjust messages that would show are usually switch messages, so it might be telling you switch 25 is not working, which is the left standup target directly in the center above the flippers. To clear this, go into switch test (Edges or levels, doesn't matter) and hit the switch and make sure it shows. Edges usually works better for this since it's instant response instead of going through the list of all closed switches.

Of course if you hit it and it doesn't closed, you have to fix the switch.

Auto manual switch down and press advance gets you into tests. Put auto up and use advance to step through tests. See your manual for details or download one from ipdb.org

I'm curious how the seller got it to boot up and say missing ball without the MPU board in it!

Pretty good deal otherwise. Get a replacement board from DumbAss and you'll be good to go.

F14 is a great game IMO, pretty much everyone else that's not a hardcore pinhead hates it when I have parties (I have the upper flippers set to funnel the ball to the outhole if you don't flip.)

Can't you just put it in like a pail (open side up) let it fill with liquid, then turn it over?

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/returning-f14-flashers-to-original-design-vids-guide

That's the slam switch. You don't want it touching. It's supposed to be normally open.

Just bend it. The pad is supposed to be there to isolate the switch from the door.

The game knows to fire them based on the wireform switch leading to them. You have to test those wireform switches with a ball, not your finger. It's relatively common for them to rotate out of the way a bit over time, just adjust them back by loosening the 2-56 screws a little bit and rotating the switch body back towards the wireform.

There is NEVER a scenario in the software that expects 2 balls to be in the same holding location. It's nice that a ball search will recover this, but it's not intended to work this way.

It decides which side based on the tomcat targets it puts the ball on the side of the targets you need more of.
This way when it fires out you can shoot at them with the opposite flipper.

Yes, just like any other wireform. You do have to work it out (putty knife with something to protect the PF where the edge of the blade sites works well).

When I get around to my F-14 swap I'm not even going to put these back in. They serve little purpose in home use (their original intention as 'biff bars' was to help prevent people from doing bang backs).

Yes, the chips are useful as are the working displays for people that are fixing original display sets.

Those wire guides are pretty easy to make you can get the material from PBR or marco, or a welding supply house.

Any details on this mod?

B-11395
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-11395

Yes

https://www.outsideedgeproducts.com/store/p75/Pinball_Playfield_Hardtop.html

to clarify - use the red wires for the 50v circuit.

use the purple wires to convert to 25v circuit.

It's a mod to make the diverter coils not melt.... I plan on doing it whenever I get to my F14 PF swap, in like a million years. Need to finish up the other 4-5 that are in progress first before starting something new

The first shot might be random to one of the 2 mid field lanes. After that, it puts the ball opposite of where you need more letters to complete so you can shoot at them from the opposite flipper on eject. It also tries to balance out shooting an existing ball vs. putting a new one there.

Ultimately it really doesn't matter which lane it goes in (except the lowest one, which is the first lock loaded unless another player put it there).

As in Firepower (Eugene Jarvis' other multiball game) he makes you put the balls in the locks that are open first, then ones you haven't filled but someone else did. In F14 that doesn't matter since all players who get their physical locks taken just reload them on their ball start..... for 25k each! That's kind of unfair to other players; it's been fixed to 10 points in a tournament rom or 2.

Random piece is nothing in the game, looks like a latching type setup for something.

The motor will connect to that small board you have in the center there.

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Hopefully better view

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Since you're making a new harness anyway, solder/heatshrink.

I guess mine had a different motor put on it looks factory but there's really no way to know about these things for sure. I did think it was odd there was that little harness adapter in there.

There's a tournament rom and an 8 digit update rom that uses the display style from earthshaker.

Solenoid circuits are usually slow blow and everything else fast blow.

Tournament rom cans awards 10 points instead of 25k on locks (so when the player reloads their locks that were stolen by the earlier player doesn't get free points) and the jackpot starts at the first value for everyone and advances on yagov kills. From papa years ago.

The 8 digit rom is only in one machine in the world.... mine. I thought I did a video of it but I'll have to look on my old hard drive for it as I never u/l to my youtube channel. Basically it's a rewrite into 8 digits, the hot streak adds every value instead of just the last one (I didn't even know that was the way it was until I was doing this.... there was no reason to try to get hot streak going on the original rom for points since you didn't get a lot from it, max 100k, peanuts.) You get an extra bonus for yagov kills at the end of the ball. And it's 8 digit scoring on the 2x16 display with all the effects modified to match the display.

I need to get a new display panel made for it as I just sanded the existing panel between the 7 digit displays sloppily, should not have done that but earlier times.

When you ground the tab of the transistor you are testing the power path, not the transistor. You're simulating what the transistor does manually, providing ground for the circuit.

Since it works when you ground the coil itself your source voltage is making it to the coil, but the ground path isn't. Looks like you tested the ground path to the board, now test the path on the board itself from the transistor center tab to the connector pin.