(Topic ID: 66172)

F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.

By Hellfire

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 5,595 posts
  • 469 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 35 hours ago by harig
  • Topic is favorited by 205 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

19 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #91 Insert color list Posted by jodini (10 years ago)

Post #98 Video - Add red flashers back to light show. Posted by Patofnaud (10 years ago)

Post #163 Technical Sheet - Matrix, etc. Posted by Snux (10 years ago)

Post #205 Speaker Panel - Early model= glue Posted by IceCreamMan (10 years ago)

Post #406 Pop bumper cap replacement. Posted by Fifty (9 years ago)

Post #466 Bulletproof - rectifier fuses Posted by Snux (9 years ago)

Post #477 Removing warming resistors Posted by Jumping-Box (9 years ago)

Post #513 Cliffy Flipper Frames Posted by Xenon75 (9 years ago)

Post #569 How to increase Bonus Posted by wayout440 (9 years ago)

Post #747 Pinball Cards Posted by agodfrey (9 years ago)


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#1911 7 years ago

Looking at an F14 tomorrow night. The guy got it as payment for a job and now he is looking to cash out. He clearly knows little about the machine. What do I need to look for when i go check out this particular machine. Clearly I know to look for obvious hacks and burnt connectors, but other information is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

#1913 7 years ago

Thank you

#1919 7 years ago

Is this one of the games that Mylar is easier or harder to remove on. I removed Mylar on lower playfield of whirlwind so I have some experience.

#1921 7 years ago

Picked it up for $850 in rather poor shape, but figured that was an okay project price. Inserts look good, but Mylar needs to go. Playfield is a wreck where there is no Mylar, and Mylar is very cloudy and pulled away from a few inserts. I figure I'll get on the list for a new playfield if I screw it up.

#1923 7 years ago

Very nice. I sealed the cabinet to try and prevent any more flaking of cracked paint. I have nice players condition in mind, but I also put my order in for a playfield, so who knows. It all depends on what happens as the Mylar comes off.

#1924 7 years ago

Didn't have a restore in mind since the list price was $1500 before I checked it out. I need work to stop getting in the way of pinball to get this done.

1 month later
#1971 7 years ago

Blue/purple to right in photo
Blue/yellow to left
Middle and left to EOS tabs

Did this last night.

However, I originally soldered the capacitor to the lane change switch like a moron and then realized when knocker went off at start-up.

It's good I soldered both ends to the lane change switch or I probably would have fried something. Shouldn't work on these when I'm tired.

3 weeks later
#1986 7 years ago

The last 2 beacon parts I saw were on eBay and were approx $180 each but none there now. There are only the reflectors here at Pinside. At a minimum, $300 should be knocked off if topper missing.

4 months later
#2235 7 years ago

Just bite the bullet and buy 2 new targets. Those ones are pretty easy to replace. It's the rear 6 that are the real pain and take the most beating.

1 month later
#2372 7 years ago

If you can wait until next week, I can scan the areas you are looking for on my new uninstalled playfield.

#2376 7 years ago

I've installed the flame lamps in the two spots near the jet exhaust and am happy with the flickering orange result. I wish the lamps were lined up just a bit better with the exhaust but I like the dynamic appearance.

#2381 7 years ago

Why leave the monster capacitor in the machine. Granted, I don't really like getting near that thing.

5 months later
#2760 6 years ago

He photoshopped it essentially

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