Quoted from Tmezel:

I'm picking up one of these games for $50. A guy came by the shop and does not want it anymore. No details whatsoever.

Quoted from Arcade:

Awesome Tim. Congrats.
Paid $500 for ours Enjoying it a lot.
Fun game to fix up.

Quoted from Tmezel:

I thought I read to use a paste of IPA and flour to clean up the inserts?

Quoted from aerobert:

Sorry to leave the club. Sold yesterday for 1800 USD.
Will return some day probably. Miss it already.

Quoted from shuyge:

I don't seem to have any foam at all in any of the stand-up targets on my F-14. Does anybody know the proper size to order?
Thanks,
Stan

Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Hey all!
I did a complete teardown of my F-14 over the weekend; mylar pulled, adhesive removed, and now inserts de-inserted (and rubbery adhesive cleaned out of the holes) Next step is a thorough wipe down with naptha to remove the last bits of mylar adhesive. Then, glueing in new inserts, then it will be off to the finisher to put down an initial layer of clear...
Not covering every step since that would basically be reproducing Vids guide, but will post highlights.

Quoted from stumptown:

I've got a new shooter lane ramp on the way (and will the the original repaired as a spare, don't worry it's not going in the trash!), but I also found the solution to my airball problem. It wasn't the ramp at all! I adjusted the position of the shooter lane assembly itself and was able to completely eliminate airballs even with the ramp damaged as it is. It came down to re-positioning the shooter rod to match the alignment of the new PF shooter lane. Before, it was way off to the right and I'm assuming putting some odd spin or bounce on the ball. Once I got it into the position you see here it started launching the ball consistently with no failures or airballs. Before, it was often hitting the right upper part of the wireform or bouncing violently enough to launch into play or onto the top of the wireform ramp. You can see by the paint wear on the cabinet in the pictures how much adjustment it took, around a quarter inch the left from the original position of the shooter assembly. I was able to accomplish this just by loosening the shooter assembly screws and moving it over before retightening them, no drilling required.

Quoted from CoitusMysterioso:

I just purchased an F-14 Tomcat as my first SS Pin. I've been wanting one of these or a High Speed and this one came up locally a couple of weeks ago.
Its in good condition with very minimal PF wear and only a little mylar bubbling over a couple inserts. Currently its completely stock but I am planning to go fully LED within the next few weeks. I am also contemplating installing a PF protector but haven't decided on that one yet.
Man I love this game!!! It makes all of my EM machines feel super slow!

Quoted from StylesBitchly:

Remember to use warm white lights if under a colored insert if you want to maintain accurate insert color. Also be sure to use warm white frosted above play field if it is really exposed to your eyes. Cool white is hard on my eyes unless under an insert or hidden from direct view. I also recommend using warm white flashers (if you’re going with led flashers you need to remove warming resistors). Warm white looks like incandescent bulbs. Of course blue frosted GI looks great under blue plastics and red and blue leds look great under same color inserts. Comet is good! You will def get ghosting if not using a led controller, so if not, get non ghosting leds for all cpu controlled lights. You have to decide before dropping the cash.

Quoted from gearheaddropping:

Been putting in some hours on F14. Here is a video of a game with a new Cointaker premium LED kit. I used the non-ghosting for the inserts and the frosted cool bulbs for the GI. Flashers are still incandescent. The game has a repro playfield and repro plastics. I will be working on a coin door rebuild next.
» YouTube video

Quoted from StylesBitchly:

I just did an experiment.
I just compared two 89 flashers side by side on my F-14. One was an incandescent, the other, a WARM WHITE Cointaker Super5 LED. My wife and I could not see any difference between the two at all! Notice I said WARM WHITE. COOL WHITE is too bright and annoying and sucks IMO. And this was without the warming resistor installed.