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Quoted from TomDK:
Good luck with the motor !
Please let us know if it works ! I had this replacement and it was not able to turn on all 3 beacons.
Coindoor: Black ...
The topper works fine and the coin door is black.I got a chance to play for a while at a show before I bough it.plays solid and looks good.obviously a little wear with some crappy touch ups but when you first walk up you don't notice.I didn't notice until I leaned in to inspect because I played a few games and was getting interested in making an offer.has some soft (not real bright) led lights added and now mylared.paid $1600.
I don't know if this helps but this is the bottom of my pop bumper.I'm new and don't know the terminology so forgive me of this I'd not the switch.
grumpy yes 2 down and leaving in a few to pick up a Black Belt with a faulty flipper and the sound can barely be heard so let's make that 3 down lol.I wasn't going to post this until I got the WW going so you didn't think all the time you've spent with me was wasted but I talked to BC above and he posted for me so I figured I'd chime in.I was already thinking check the 5volt(seems like it's a common culprit).I have the BR along with capacitors and diodes to rebuild the whole thing but now I can't find my solder.I ordered some the other day using Terry B's advice of 63/37 so hopefully soon WW will be back up.again thanks for the help!!!!!!!!! I've been reading a lot and I'm looking in to taking a few classes at the local community college.they have a few classes I think would benefit me.
I believe these are all my tilt mechanisms.as you can see no ball on the oNE so that can't tilt.the pendulum has a good gap and when activated gives a warning.the one on the door has a wide gap but if activated resets the game as described above(no way that the contacts are touching while playing though).the last pic of the round thing appears to be wired to the tilts but does nothing if I make contact.are there any other tilt/slam tilt mechs?
Found the playfield tilt (couldn't miss the big label) this one has a huge gap and when triggered it makes a tilt(screen says tilt/audible sound and can't use flippers until the ball is drained)where as the doors slam tilt resets the entire game and screen reads free play as described above.
My machine described above in post #2468-2480 was indeed the 5 volt power supply after having it rebuilt its running so good I damaged a spring on a flipper lol
Mine would slam tilt when I would be having a good game usually around multi ball.it's described and diagnosed a few pages back.turned out to be the 5v power supply on mine.
Are you asking why sometimes it locks 1 ball other times 2?when you complete tomcat once it locks 1 ball if you complete tomcat twice before locking or losing a ball it will lock 2.
So I noticed the little bar in town had 2 pinball machines and last time I was in they only had 1. So I found time to stop in and see what it was and lo and behold it was F-14. And probably the darkest,dimmest,hardest F-14 I ever played. Well after about eight games I was finally getting my eyes adjusted to the game and finally got the multi-ball and when them flasher started going off the whole bar just stopped and looked to see what was going on and the bartender was like holy shit nobody's ever done that before. And the sad thing was my score still wasn't high enough to beat the default high scores.
I'm so rooting for you StylesBitchly to get your f14 working 100%. Grumpy got 2 of my machines back on the road and life has never been so good.the wife hasn't complained about pinball machines in the living room since and has even caught that 1 more game feeling.
Grumpy is better than a marriage counselor !!
I have 6 in my living room and the only reason I'm thinking of relocating to the basement us I can only fit about 8 in the living room and I'm not stopping at 8.
I have the pinball pro speakers with the upgraded sub.the speakers sound good but the sub sounds like total shit in f14.being an older game there isn't much of a bass track therefore there's not much signal to the sub for it to do much.I wish I would of saved my money and just did the backbox speakers.the sub sounds much better in my WW.
New problem.on ball 3 I completed all the kill lites to light extra ball (never collected)also 2 sets of tomcat targets.the big round light in front of the kill targets went white and stayed on which I dont recall happening before.I shot a ball up the right side to start the lock and it went crazy as if i got an extra ball or something as it locked the first ball then let me lock the second ball at that point it ended my turn and went to ball 4 and would not kick the ball out to the shooter lane.I retrieved the balls and can start a game but it won't kick the ball out. P.s.it also reset my high scores the other day and the batteries are not old.
When it goes through coil test nothing happens until 17 L sling then 18 R sling then 20 pop bumper 21 top diverted and 22 lower diverted nothing happens on the rest.switch level test I get an audible that sound like it's telling me to address the 4 thing it's cycling 11 Rt ball trough,12 Rc ball trough,13 Lc ball trough and 22 L cent eject. I'll look at my manuals and see what I can guess and post back before any advice maybe I'll get lucky.
No flashers, I checked every fuse in the back box I could find on and off the boards.
Same thing except now it won't go through the switch test but I bet you already know that.also it doesn't do nothing on the switch edges test (ever) unless I hit a flipper or start button.
Quoted from GRUMPY:
You can do a factory reset also.
Is a factory reset different than resetting to factory settings? I did reset to factory then switched to free play(no help).I can't reach the roms tonight,my sick pup is camped out in front of the machine and it's wedged in between others.
In test 05 switch levels nothing with all 4 ball removed,put balls back in and must manually flick them over and as I add more balls I get more trough errors.start game no ball ejects to shooter lane after manually advancing and launching ball it locks into the right side upper lock by pop bumber,ends turn and goes to ball 2.knocked ball out slings work and score as do tomcat targets,pop bumper and spinner.the rescue does not kick as well as Yargov.so it seems all coils are not firing except flippers.
Removed roms and gave them a quick cleaning with alcohol then reseated them and it didn't help
So I've looked at the manual trying to see if I can make a common connection between the problems.I know very little so feel free to correct/educate me.page 27(solenoid table) shows they are on multpile different driver trans so I'm thinking not that.page 29 (switch -matrix table) shows I have multiple problems in column 2&3 says check for short circuit between the row wires . questions,what wires?under the playful and how do I test beyond a visual inspection?I ran another switch test and now the errors are not the same,now we have #14,13,12,11 and 48.tried the auto burn-in and everything works in display,sound and lamp(lamp test just blinks all lights except flashers and lower half of the back box lights for about a minute).then goes to Solenoid test and nothing activates except the slings,pop bumper and diverters.after turning off and back on it powers up and reports no errors unless i go back into test mode.when trying a switch edge test the only thing I can test is the flippers and start button,is this test made for manually activating each thing with the glass off?when inactivate either flipper I get a spinner message.
OK then fuses,yes I pulled every fuse but I'm on my way home and I will double check.
Well f2 which I swear i checked was blown and the wrong fuse.I'll recheck the rest and make sure the rest are the proper fuse.I can now start a game and some of the things that were not working are and maybe all,I didn't play long enough to find out as I noticed there's some light bulb issues so I turned it off.I did notice f2 in that minute or 2 seemed to be warming up and the other 3 right there weren't. Is it normal for it to get warm?my instinct says something wasn't right but there is current running through it.I'll poke around a little more and report back if needed in a couple days with what the lights are doing.
OK I got all most of the little problems on my other pins taken care of so I'm now ready to get my F14 back up and running.
I'm having issues with my flashers and back box lights.most of my back box lights are out and some of the flashers most notably most of the ones along the back of the playfield,not all of them but some are not working and also the ones in the big round center insert in front of the kill targets lock on.game still seems to play fine but I haven't left it on very long as when it first did it it blew a fuse and if I turn it on the new fuse gets warm quick.I had a tech out working on some other games but he didn't know to much on system 11's but he did test some of the transistors and found no problem but said this piece was getting hotter than it should.
Note that the center flasher does turn off for a split second when launching a ball but locks back on.I made a video but don't know how to post it.
Couple crappy pics.2nd is just turning the game on and 1st is after starting with the lights locked on blinding you and shows the lights out in the backbox.
That is the one I tracked it down to myself and then so did the tech that came out.he tested it then and said it was good and I did a few minutes ago myself and have no clue if 1.772 is low or not.I've also been having an issue with WW I thought I resolved but apparently not so I'll be posting over there again.
It seems it goes to 0 when a game is started.I'll verify tonight when I have a helper that can turn it on and start a game for me while I'm doing a reading
Ordered.I might as well ask now how to check u28 and u38 so I can do it as soon as it arrives.and what kind of reading should I be looking for?
OK I found U19 and the 2 test points to connect the logic probe but how are the pins numbered? Am I checking the top row or bottom? And does #1 start on the left or right?
I have a question on how to properly check q22,want to make sure I have the correct info for you.I used the ground where the braided wire is and am I supposed to check the leg or the big metal piece? And to check continuity I go back to the dmm on ohm,black on 6 red on q18 in attract mode?
Q 22 was the first thing I checked I just wanted to confirm the proper way to check it
Q18 test at .2 in for continuity on ohm setting.q22 is 5.4 and with closer inspection I'm seeing some distortion.
Thank younonce again!!! Good news is Q-22 was my first instinct bad news is I tested wrong and missed the obvious distortion and wouldn't know if 5.4 was good or bad.
Now before I order parts I need to figure out WW. I was looking at the switch matrix and seems like most of the issues have Q-44 in common.
Someone get Grumpy a plastic !!!! It's the least we can do for him.I looked on ebay,I was going to buy him one but there's none available right now.
I know that but if I ebay would of had one it would be on the way to you.it would of cost me about as much as a good beer and I would definitely buy you a beer if we ever meet.
I'm back up and mostly running I'm still missing the lower half of the back box lights (entire string)but the flasher is no longer locked on.no tips on the back box lights yet,i want to do a little fiddling around and see if I can figure it out on my own.
I fried my display trying to hook up an interactive under cab light kit.I either went to the wrong connector or tied into the wrong voltage.I'll get with the vendor to figure that out but my question is can this be fixed or just buy a new one.I verified it was fried by swapping in my one from fire which worked fine.
Edit: I got my answer and I was told since it was working before I shorted it out it should be able to be fixed
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