Just joined the club today! Game isn't fully working, so I'm excited to dig in. I'll have to find a pic.....

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Haven’t dug in too deep yet, need to order the manual, but anyone quick know what this is for? It’s blowing and for sure blows when I press start button

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So that fuse is the purple wire that goes to the coils affected, and the top plug of the flipper power board. However all the flippers work just fine.

ahhh... I'll get more fuses. Is that fuse a 2.5amp? I think it is this fuse in the pic, in red. 2.5.

And I see that that ball shooter lane feeder coil could cause it. To test, should I just un-solder the coil or is there a better way to test that.

Thanks! I was tracing wire all over last night and I'm glad you confirmed. I did read some of the pdf manual, but man I love the paper ones

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HA! I just realized I should state the actual issue now that I messed with some stuff last night.

Currently. Power game up, attract mode and coin up works. I coin up, and press start, I hear some coils or things reset. I launch the ball and it just goes around the ramp to the 3rd spot and runs to that lower right lock...then another ball comes out into the shooter lane and does the same. So 2 balls in the lower right lock. Balls wont eject from lower right lock, middle two locks, upper right VUK, the upper left 2 ramp diverters or the kick back on the lower left.

Yeah, all the switches seemed good. No continuity when open, I cleaned one, but all had continuity when closed. I will re-test again. If a switch was stuck though, wouldnt the coil fire and hold?

HA, I always forget old games have test modes. Thank you, I'll run switch tests.

I didn’t remember to do the switch tests. Ended up boxing up all the boards and shipping them out for repair. Pretty excited to get them back. I’ll be doing the rectifier board mod and reflowing solder on that other common issue board. Then the game “should” work!

Ya, for sure cure and some say to rotate it every x days. Neo or kruz would be good guys to ask

My boards are back! Excited to install and get this game rockin! Forgot to order the rectifier board but I’ll do that soon

could scan it and make a new one?

My f14 is alive and working! yay

My board came with the nvram. I'd recommend going that route, but I'm not sure how hard the install was.

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That’s what my fear was, I haven’t done my own yet, as I send all my used games boards out for repair/update and they usually come back with it installed

Crap, put f14 on route Friday and got a call today it stopped ejecting balls when starting a game :/

Man I should check mine too. Used game and I didn’t go through it completely.

Went to the bar and luckily it was a stuck ball. I checked the switches and one looks hacked with a bolt/nut instead of a rivet holding the switch blades together. I tightened it down and ordered two new ones

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New targets are in and my new Inko rectifier board/kit! Routed f14 is still playing well!

That is the best part about this forum! knowledgable people helping each other!

Quick question before I have time to dive in.

My f14 on route. You hit start and the coils fire except the ball through to push a ball into the shooter lane. In coil test the game fires both trough coils fine.

I’ll look into a switch test, I’m just not used to the sys11’s menu system to test and diagnose....time to fix Munsters...

That’s what I thought.

I found the switch level and switch edge test, the trough switches all show a different switch when triggered. Like shooter lane is top left loop. The manual says it could be a column and row mixing.. but I took a video. It is odd. All troughs show a different switch but that switch it shows acts just fine in test. I physically looked at all the switches and they seem good solder wise and working.

Here is an example

They were in and out. When in, they don’t trigger anything on the test read outs. When out, I triggered the switches with my fingers and they showed the different switches being triggered.

All the switches I tried displayed, but only the trough and shooter lane show weird results.

I visually inspected all the switches I could and all seem fine. I tugged on wires and diodes and didn’t see any broke.

Is that the one in the manual? Where you unplug a plug and do a jumper test?

My worry is board, and I just had the boards worked on.... ugh pinball

I’ll give that a shot. thanks

J10 and j8 unplugged. In switch edge and switch level tests. No switches pop up on the displays

Edit
I take that as a good sign my boards aren’t bad, but now it’s finding out why a random part of a column and a row are showing a different switch in test

The dreaded long look ya I’ll have to go tomorrow with daylight. Always a fun time when it’s on route thanks for the tips! I’m gone a week for work so I’d love to have this work while I’m gone... I’ll just look over all switches and see if something fell or is loose

Man under pf looks good but I have pics and a quick vid of diagnostic leds.

I traced wires around, continuity is good. Wires look fine. Reseated the connector on the board. Pins look good.

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If they are parallel to the pf, I think flipper coils, unless I’m over looking something. If they are perpendicular then it’s the pop bumper or eject (s)

Ohhhhh hahah sorry, I didn’t see the word wire. Ya someone just replaced the wires with super thick coating ones

Spoke with a board repair, he thinks switch row1 logic is blown on the cpu board, gotta get it worked on again.

Thanks,
I’ll try this ASAP. Just got home from a work trip. Bar is probably sick of my broken game :/

mine did this. had some crazy board issues. I shipped it out to get board repair done...which if you search this thread for my name, you may actually see, I forgot if I did troubleshooting. My board had some crazy logic issues.

I think a lot of the solenoids on the pf are not fused. I had to add a board to do this.

Here is a little help
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-knight-fuses

manual
https://www.ipdb.org/files/310/Williams_1980_Black_Knight_English_Manual_with_paginated_schematics.pdf

PIcutre is what i found on the manual for the power board. You can see, they hav a solenoid fuse but 1 fuse for all? ya, there is a reason to add the fuse board
There are also fuses behind/near the rectifier/capacitor in the lower right of the head and some under the PF for the magnets.

Here is the solenoid saver board
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/special-solenoid-saver-board-for-wms-3-7

I totally recommend that. Help save from the locked on coils and blown transistors.

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Ya on power supply board f2 is for solenoids.

Almost seems like a hack to try and fuse that coil. I would remove and install the solenoid saver instead. This will do the job correctly

https://nvram.weebly.com/repair--conversion-kits.html

Get your DMM and check continuity of that wire from the coil lug to other places that wire is supposed to connect to, ie. fuse.

Sold my f14 to my neighbor and he mentioned sometimes when the upper right flipper flips the kick back coil fires...

I haven’t gone over yet to trace them out, and see if it’s wiring or a board issue, but boards were all sent out for repair, solenoid saver fuse block installed. Any one have heard of that? I almost thought it could be a switch too tight

Hmmm I’ll test it! Hopefully I can run over there this weekend

Oh interesting. I think I have some 1n4004's, maybe i'll shot gun all the flippers.