(Topic ID: 66172)

F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.


By Hellfire

6 years ago



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#54 6 years ago

Thought I would add mine here as well - recently finished a rebuild/restore with LED.

IMG_0254 [800x600].JPG
IMG_0255 [800x600].JPG

2 weeks later
#112 5 years ago
Quoted from jodini:

Bob,
With the ball drain, I would say yes...it is common if you don't hit the ball with the upper left flipper.
I love this machine with the LEDs! Here's a vid of my son playing. Next time, I'm going to get a stand for the camera! Sorry!
ยป YouTube video

Damm, that's weird. My F14 is set up with a CC Hollywood just to the left of it as well. What are the odds? Of course I am missing the other games around it...

As for LED's - I installed matching colors in the inserts, GI is using frosted cool whites - I tried using colors, but I didn't like the way the 'other' colors were washed out/over powered on the plastics. In the back box I used some blues in the bottom right to highlight the water and under the left wing, a couple of orange in the top right explosion with the rest cool whites.

Left standard bulbs for the flashers as it is well bright enough for me now - have considered them especially since my blue domes have faded some and so far I have found an exact replacement as the ones that are available are ribbed on the sides.

Thinking of adding some of the mirrored sides - I think the black chrome ones should looks cool, but undecided.

#118 5 years ago

Here is the color LED's I am using in the back box:

IMG_0380 [800x600]-696.JPG

IMG_0383 [800x600].JPG

IMG_0381 [800x600]-731.JPG

#120 5 years ago

:p

What is even odder is that we both also have a Dodge City as well (still trying to fix mine - waiting on some parts).

1 month later
#137 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballfan:

thanks! if cpr made a playfield for this machine he can sell a lot...

I recall a post where Planetary made mention that they will have a repro playfield around Feb - have to wait and see...

BTW nice work on yours.

1 month later
#183 5 years ago

Anyone have a source for the blue play field domes? Mine are somewhat faded and I would like to replace them - however I can only find ones that are not smooth along the sides.

#186 5 years ago
Quoted from Pac-Fan:

These? You will need to drill out the rivets and re-rivet them since they didn't use scerws on them I don't think. I don't think that you be able to find them without the ribbing on the sides like the originals.
$1.25 each: (25% off 5+)
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=309
$1.35 each:
http://www.pbresource.com/lampcov.html
$1.50 each: ($1.25 3+)
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8149-10
$2.50 each (OOS):
http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=LD-03-8149-10
LD-03-8149-10.jpg 2 KB

Hi - thanks, but I have seen those and they are not the correct ones. The ones lists do not have the smooth sides to them as the OEM ones. The other option is to replace them all so that they all have the same 'textured' sides.

2 weeks later
#202 5 years ago
Quoted from IceCreamMan:

Just picked up an F-14. Can anyone provide up close pictures of how the speaker panel cover attaches? The top section was glued and it's no longer holding. I'd like to fix it the OEM way.
I'm used to seeing H-trim above the display/speaker board to hold the cover in place. My trim piece is Z-shaped and bolted in place on the backside. There's no ledge up front to go over the speaker panel cover. Make sense?

I am pretty sure mine has the H-trim along the top of the speaker panel.

2 months later
#279 5 years ago
Quoted from Atomicboy:

New CPR plastics are coming end of summer again, if this hasn't been covered here already.

Thanks for the heads up.

Quoted from Fifty:

Hi guys, hoping you can help me out. I wasn't sure where to put this so I'm just adding it into the club area. I'm still a rookie in the forums and I find it a bit hard finding my way still.
I've been going over my F-14. Things look good, but there are a few tiny bits I'd like to fix before my OCD overtakes me. I need some hardware. I wasn't sure how to measure these without one of those caliper micrometer gauges. I need to know the sizes for the following as they are missing on my pin;

missingscrews.png 535 KB

Someone else may want to verify, but the screw on the shooter lane should be a #6 screw, the one on the pop bumper IIRC is a #4 screw and the post thread on the sling shot should be a #6 - 32 machine screw/nut. You should be able to pick up a screw size gauge at Lowes or other home improvement store (or just take a sample in and use theirs).

#290 5 years ago

FiftyQuid - I would have to measure mine - now that I think about it, it could be a long #4 on the shooter lane. I will check tonight is I remember.

Light bleed - yes, as other mentioned there is. I just cut some black poster board to cover the holes and stapled to the wood.

#296 5 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Hi guys, hoping you can help me out. I wasn't sure where to put this so I'm just adding it into the club area. I'm still a rookie in the forums and I find it a bit hard finding my way still.
I've been going over my F-14. Things look good, but there are a few tiny bits I'd like to fix before my OCD overtakes me. I need some hardware. I wasn't sure how to measure these without one of those caliper micrometer gauges. I need to know the sizes for the following as they are missing on my pin;

missingscrews.png 535 KB

Sorry for not getting back sooner, but the one on the shooter lane is 1/2" long.

Cheers,

#298 5 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Just to clarify, it is a #6-32 x 1/2"? Is it a screw or bolt?

#6 screw (the 32 would only apply if it was a bolt as that is the thread pitch).

3 weeks later
#375 5 years ago

I had the same problem, mine had to do with the shooter lane switch - best to go into the switch test and verify the switches (use a ball to activate them).

1 month later
#475 5 years ago

Thinking of changing to LED in the flashers - which ones have those that have done this used?

I am looking at the 8 SMD #89 SUPER BRIGHT TOWER FLASHER from Comet, but wanted to see what others say. It is also mentioned that on Comet's website that these are a bit wider than normal, so is the a problem?

Thanks

#479 5 years ago
Quoted from Jumping-Box:

For Flasher LEDs, I believe you need to first make an adjustment to the board by removing the warming resistor. I don't know how to do that, do there are threads about it.

Thanks - but I am aware of that already.

Just wondering which LEDs people are using (too many choices/makers).

Quoted from Fifty:

Has anyone added mirror blades to their F-14? If so, I would like to see it. Thank you.

I have considered it, but wasn't sure if it was worth it since the left side would be mostly covered - have also thought about adding some art as well, but didn't go much further on that either. But would also like to see if anyone has added blades.

2 months later
#635 5 years ago

I would probably be in for 1 as well.

1 month later
#722 4 years ago
Quoted from TrainH2o:

From what I have read, the second transformer is a Canadian thing. Something about different regulatory issues.
Only one is needed. The second one simply burns electricity, and makes the Canadian government feel better.

...but I have only 1 transformer on my F14 (and Getaway for that matter). %)

I can tell you that I never heard of having to install an extra transformer into a unit that already has a transformer (unless the voltage requirements are different) and I deal with CSA (Canadian Standards) fairly often as we bring in a lot of "foreign" equipment where I work.

#726 4 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

It's an Ontario Hydro thing. This is the post from google rec.games.pinball;
"Way back when in Canada, many Provinces required an isolation
transformer for safety. Not needed so you can usually just unplug &
run the prestine original cord to the wall. Another thing way back in
the early electronic pin days in Canada, was that you couldn't have
bare wood under the transformer & power board. So the operators had to
roll on some gray or black paint to prevent a possible fire. That was
another useless thing which was abandoned, aolong with Ontario Hydro
approval instead of CSA or the USA version UL. Thank goodness for free
trade which has done away with stupid seperate approval agencies, so
now UL or CSA is good in Canada. We had ULC also in the past."

...ah, that explains it - Ontario Hydro likes to create their own rules in addition to CSA (they have their own sticker too that it "passes").

I have seen some of the old Nortel equipment that has the Ontario Hydro sticker on it...

1 week later
#770 4 years ago

I used Pinball Bulbs LED's in my F14 (used frosted in GI as well) - couldn't be happier

#781 4 years ago
Quoted from jeffpm:

Thanks, I really like the look of your game from the pics earlier in the thread.
Did you go with the non-ghosting option?

No, the only place I have noticed it being a problem is on the lock lights and then it seems to be only during attract mode.

rottenrobert1313 - first thing I would do is resolder the pin connections on your sound board and your display board. Then measure the power supply inputs on the board and make sure you are getting proper voltage.

Is the right display (or the lower ones for that matter) also affected with extra digits?

#803 4 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Pretty cheap. Good luck finding one in the locally in the Toronto area for that price unless its a little beat up.

I would have to agree, wouldn't sell mine for that ($1500) either.

rottenrobert1313 - are both displays showing the same extra segments lit? Are they all lit? Obvious question, do you have another display board you can try? There are only 6 devices (3 for each display) that drive the extra segments U12, U13, U14, U15 (and 2 resistor networks). U12 & 13 are the high voltage drivers for the displays (those should be working since the segments are lit, but verify that there is -115v on pin 10, pin 9 is ground). What happens if you unplug J1? If both displays are showing the same, I would probably suspect a problem on the processor board - possibly the PIA at U51. But get back to me and we can go from there.

1 month later
#901 4 years ago

Also just ordered a new plastic set (even though I only have 1 broken piece as well) - never hurts to have a spare fresh set.

1 week later
#931 4 years ago
Quoted from Lame33:

Four of the plastic white feet/sliders that you nail into the back so that when the cabinet is on it's back it does not rest on the floor.

I got some for another project from Home Depot - I will see if I can dig up the info.

edit - this is all I could find, not the same, but I did find the exact same ones (all white and same shape) in store in the same section as these are in the store. http://www.homedepot.ca/product/low-friction-slider-glides/849566

3 weeks later
#981 4 years ago

I used frosted (flex and removed the cap where needed) pinballbulbs.com ones on my F14 (inserts and GI) and issues.

4 weeks later
#1143 4 years ago

CPR is not doing the F14 playfield - PP is already in the process of having them made (no expectant date know at this time).

http://www.planetarypinball.com/forum/index.php/topic,77.0.html

1 month later
#1279 4 years ago
Quoted from Gorno:

I actually found a set of ramps, but the seller backed out and never replied back to me. Other than having the ramp tig welded and re-chromed; I don't think I have any other options.

Mine is the same - so far I am just 'ignoring' it as it doesn't seem to affect the play ATM.

4 months later
#1496 4 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Has anyone swapped out the ceramic resistors on the flasher warming boards with any other type of resistor? I have a couple that are broken and need to be replaced and was wondering if I should just not bother with the ceramic and go up a step to these;
http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/W22-330RJI/985-1147-2-ND/2401645
Same rating, flame proof and I won't have to pay Marco ridiculous international shipping fees.

I don't think there should be an issue.

I did buy some replacement ceramic ones from Digikey, so they have them as well (or had).

1 week later
#1529 4 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

I had two beers.
This issue seems completely random. I had the coil in test mode when I measured it. The coil was not locked on. Earlier in the evening I was taking measurements. The pin was on and the coil was locked on. As I'm taking measurements the coil just turns off. This is when I put the coil in test mode. Nothing. I take a measurement and it's 7VDC on each lug. So while the coil is in test mode I put an alligator clip on the transistor Q33 and ground it. Nothing. Well fuck...
I will pull the board and replace Q33 and Q29. I'm wondering if I should just replace U20 at the same time. I've been hesitant to remove the board because it seems like something else goes wrong every time I put it back in.
This type of thing pisses me off. There is some shitty solder work around Q71 and that section is working perfectly. My soldering looks like heaven compared to it and it doesn't friggin work. Someone is testing me.

When the coil is not on you should be measuring the 34V at the collector of the TIP122 transistor (metal tab) (or at either coil lug). If not you have to trace back why there is no power feed to the coil. Maybe it is simple like a fuse.

If the coil locks on, you are either getting a high into or out of U20 or a high on the base of the TIP122 - if those are low then I would suspect the TIP122 is bad (collector to emitter short) or there is some other short from the coil to ground (maybe you have a bare spot in the harness that is shorting to ground?).

If you are getting a high into U20, then I would suspect the PIA has a problem (or could be the switch). Do you have access to an EPROM burner to burn a System 11 test ROM? Although you would be getting an error code on the LED's if you have a bad PIA.

I assume you have re-flowed the solder on the connectors (IJ11 & IJ12) on the board.

#1553 4 years ago

Sorry, been away.

A bit confused with the messages. So just to start (game on and in stand by (attract mode)):

Is the coil still locked on? Yes - power off disconnect the coil from the board (remove the pin from the connector 1J11-1 if we are on the same page and talking about the correct coil - the coil that kick the ball over after draining). Tape up end so you don't short it to ground. Power on, coil still locked? Yes problem not on the board you have a short someplace in the harness/playfield.

If no - voltage at base of Q33? High, check voltage at base of Q29?

Q29 base low skip to next paragraph, base of Q33 is shorted to power. Now that could mean Q29 collector to emitter short or something else. Best if you can now bench test it for the following (saves taking in it and out of the game) - no big deal if not, just more time consuming. Power off, cut the trace near the pad of the emitter of Q29 (make sure it is open - use a sharp knife and cut through the trace, make 2 passes the second just beside the first not too wide - just wide enough to break the circuit but narrow enough that it is easy to bridge with solder to repair afterwards). Power on, voltage at base of Q33? If high you will have to trace through the connection between the cut and the base to find where it is getting power. If low measure the emitter of Q29. If high bad Q29

Q29 base high, Check U20 pins 1 and 2. Both pins 1 & 2 have to be high for pin 3 to be high, if either pin 1 or 2 are low and pin 3 is high then power off. Cut the trace that connects pin 3 to the rest of the board (make sure it is open - use a sharp knife and cut through the trace, make 2 passes the second just beside the first not too wide - just wide enough to break the circuit but narrow enough that it is easy to bridge with solder to repair afterwards). Power on check pin 3 of U20 again, if high bad U20 otherwise a bad SR6.

If U20 pins 1 & 2 are high, I will continue. But at this point I suspect a bad PIA

#1564 4 years ago

When I got my F14 I was getting intermittent PIA error like you had - most of the time it would boot fine (sorry don't remember the actual problem, but different PIA also). Once I replaced the PIA, the problem went away and never had it pop up as an error again.

1 week later
#1602 4 years ago

I have a new set of mylar for the F14 is anyone is interested. I bought these as a replacement for mine but decided to clear it and never used them.

Free to a good home, but you will have to pay shipping. I am in Canada, so US shipping can be a bit high (I will guess it to be around $40 based on past experience). Obviously shipping in Canada will be less (guessing again at around $15-20).

PM me if you are interested

1 week later
#1638 4 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Anyone know where you can get the white nylon PCB stand offs in Flashball's photos? I have a couple that are broken off. These aren't the normal standard ones.
[EDIT] Part number is 20-9521.

http://www.rtbb.com.au/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=15&products_id=2566
http://www.pinballspareparts.com.au/parts-by-machine/williams-parts/20-9521.html

If you can also check out Digikey if they don't have to be exactly the same: http://www.digikey.ca/product-search/en/hardware-fasteners-accessories/board-supports/2097660

#1650 4 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Thanks. Was hoping I wouldn't have to order from Aussieland, but this seems to be the only place that has the offset version.

If you don't mind the screw down ones, The Real Bob Roberts has them: http://www.therealbobroberts.net/pcbfeet.jpg

or Twisted Quarters (probably others as well): http://www.twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=52&products_id=112

4 months later
#1832 3 years ago

Coin door service buttons assembly parts:

3 switch metal bracket (holds the switches - screws to the label plate): Mouser, part number 611-C0310
4 switch metal bracket (holds the switches - screws to the label plate): Mouser, part number 611-C03175

locking switch: Digikey, part number CKN10023-ND
momentary switch: Digikey, part number 401-1225-ND

cap for switch, white: Digikey, part number 401-1216-ND
cap for switch, red: Digikey, part number 401-1218-ND
cap for switch, black: Digikey, part number 401-1215-ND

I also installed a new set of plastics, so I would be willing to sell my original set - banana shape plastic has the front hole mount broken and the plastic around the upper Tomcat target is also broken, all other are decent. Not sure I want to part out the set (yet) - make me an offer for the whole set and we can go from there. Note: if you are in the US expect shipping to be about $40 (with tracking, probably less without but that is at your own risk). Those of you in Calgary that will be at the Edmonton show, I can bring them there. Also to add that the domes are still attached as I installed new ones.

#1836 3 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Will the Digikey caps fit on the stock Williams service switches???

Yes - they are the exact same part (everything in the list). Well at least they fit my machines...

2 months later
#1885 3 years ago

My new (about 1.5 years ago) beacon motor will still stick once in a while as well (not very often, but once every few months it seems) - it will start rotating on it's own though after about 1-2 seconds.

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