Joined the club yesterday. I'm kind of bummed because what I bought has more issues than I thought (I anticipated primarily just cabinet bruises, but it turns out I've got raised inserts--not surprising--and need to do a whole lot of adjusting)..I suppose I should have assumed this kind of condition and passed, as I really wasn't looking to take on another project after moving my eight ball deluxe to someone else's to-do list so I didn't have to do it.

The mylar is pretty gross on this but as I'm in no shape to strip it down, touch up, level inserts, and clear it, I guess I'm rolling with it as is. Hopefully I can make all the adjustments it needs and just play it for a bit. Right away I think I like it better than the high speed I've been hardtopping. I'll probably just sell that when I'm done and focus on making F-14 a lot nicer than it is now. It really is a great game.

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Really, I got what $1400 probably gets you on this one. I don't think I did horribly, it's just rougher than I understood it to be. Rookie mistake, hopefully I'll learn from it for next time.

I'll fix the maintenance items (re-sleeving/replacing flipper coils and adjusting right sling/pop switches), clean it, and shovel LEDs into it, then play it. I likely won't go after mylar removal until a hardtop is announced and/or I finish hardtopping my high speed. I really don't enjoy tearing machines down far enough to clear or hardtop though, so hopefully I can get it playing "okay" as is. It's a really cool game--i like it a lot!

I assume this is a dumb question but I'll ask anyway.. Is there any way to change the top (rear) GI bulbs without removing half of the crap on the playfield?

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Was really hoping to not have to go to that level of disassembly to do it, but ultimately I'll have to do whatever I need to do in order to get it done. Can't half-do an LED job for GI! I already need to go buy some wedges for the controlled lights that use PC boards. Blah.

Haven't given in yet and plucked the ramps off, but I will. You're right, it's not THAT bad.. Just wasn't something I planned on tackling right away. But I gotta finish these LEDs.

I did hit 2mil a couple of times (well, 1.95 this morning, 2.04 yesterday). I'm really enjoying this game. When I have it fully dialed in--pop still isn't as 'sharp' as it probably needs to be, right sling still doesn't kick as hard as I'd like, and the flippers probably need rebuilt--i think this will absolutely be one of my favorites in my lineup.. And has likely usurped High Speed, which I've all but decided will be leaving once I finish this hardtop.

I wasn't completely convinced I made a great decision buying this, given its rough aspects, but I'm in love with the game.. It was worth it.

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Oh, and I disassembled the right flipper because it felt like it was catching a lot of resistance..I assumed the coil/sleeve were bad (the sleeve IS stuck in the coil, so I'll replace both when I actually rebuild them), but check out this spring that was shoved in! The one on the left was literally included with the machine...I have no idea.

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I cheated and pulled sockets from the bottom to do it. Had to fix several parts of braid because I was too vigorous getting the staples out. Whoops.

Ended up having to pull the playfield TWICE because I accidentally subbed a warm white bulb for one of the cool whites--gah!

Now I need to order some wedge LEDs from comet so I can finish the controlled bulbs...

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Those stickers really do jazz it up a bit. Guess I'm going after some too!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/for-sale-f-14tomcat-brand-new-playfield#post-5456186

Holy crap... I'm a bit sad now lmao..I paid $1450 (delivered) for one much, much less nice....

I've still got lots of tuning to do on this thing.

The pop isn't as sensitive as it needs to be, so it's kind of lazy at times.. Both left and right gates are causing the ball to get hung up at times..I noticed the right one isn't always fully dropping after the ball shoots out (probably need to either remove and clean or just replace).. Right sling is still weaker than the left (needs additional switch adjustment I assume).. otherwise it's playing okay for a mostly neglected turd

Rubber looks fairly good so I'm assuming those aren't crazy old.. That helps.

Definitely let me know if you're around!

Lol...I just noticed....

I had to pull the playfield a second time to fix that one warm white bulb on the right... And then I lost this cluster. So out she comes for a THIRD time so I can pinpoint the break. Sheesh.

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Tried to solder the break without pulling... Of course it was the FURTHEST POINT possible... So I'm balancing on a chair, dangling myself upside down... To no avail, of course. I finally give in and pull the damn thing, try to solder with it leaned up against something... NOPE... Give up and lay it flat, solder it easy peasy, and put the damn thing back in. Looks good now!

Used a purple passion 2SMD from comet in the center, but had to pull it pretty far away to get it to diffuse properly. Love the color, wish I could get the bulb to diffuse properly up close..

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Good suggestion. I do need to do that.

I've noticed that I have (and still have, even after replacing with known working) flashers with issues. The white one in the right doesn't work no matter what I do. Probably the warming element..

This still isn't dialed in perfectly but it's playing better than it was, anyway. I'm getting there with it.

At some point I need to figure out why the cabinet and the back box both seem....snug? Warped? Idk. Both the glass and the playfield seem to resist having the pieces installed. It's more so the back box than the cab, as I think my issue there is just that the playfield is heavy and maneuvering it is awkward.

The speaker panel and the backglass are nightmares to fit in place and I'm noticing that there are actually rub marks as well. Not sure if I need to sand some material down and then repaint black, or what.. Something to deal with later on down the road.

Snapped the spoon like a twig trying to get the pop working well more consistently -- oops. Stole one off the high speed I have in pieces (I'll put brand new stuff in it when I get the hardtop down anyway), verified it was in good condition / cleaned it and installed... Thus far no mis-hits. So I think I have that fixed. I'm about 98% there with the most important stuff. Fixed the bum flasher too, the warming board had some gross soldering work done--stuck out like a sore thumb with the PF raised--and one leg had come loose. Soldered it down and away we go. Fixed the beacons too.

I love this game.. Way underrated imo.
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Holy F that's obnoxious, I absolutely love it.

Quick question on the gate to the right of the pop.. mine was completely destroyed, and installed backwards, so I removed it and did my best attempt at bending a new piece (temporarily) but couldn't actually even get it installed except backwards.. is there some trick to installing the damn things?!

I messaged him on eBay, to no avail. Would love to buy a set from him if you find any success here.

Left gate seems oriented correctly. It's certainly possible the right gate was actually a left gate and that's why it was so screwed up. I had to absolutely destroy it to remove it. I actually bent a new gate from a wire hanger, being careful to match the bends up with a RIGHT gate picture, and I simply couldn't get it to go on any way other than with the loop facing the pop. Unfortunately it has a tendency to rub on the cap like this and that causes it to stick open, etc.

Side note, decent first game this morning..I think I'll leave it at that for now lol

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Good suggestion. So here's the real question I have... Should the loop be on the OUTSIDE, or inside facing the pop? It's on the outside on the left gate, but I could only get it installed facing the left for the right gate. It also seems that the metal bar that restricts movement is orientated on the inner (left) part for the right gate...?

I tried my damnedest to get the right gate on like that but couldn't do it. Granted I was using a pliable part bent from a coat hanger, but still... I need to order the actual part still.

I wasn't sure just now much I'd really enjoy F-14 because it's challenging and I kinda suck at Pinball. But since I got it, I haven't played much else. Right now it's stealing the bulk of time I was putting in to meteor and space shuttle right next to it.

I was a bit unsure of where this left high speed when I finished its hardtop but barring a complete change of direction I think high speed will be leaving my lineup once eight ball deluxe is finished. I really only have room for 5 comfortably and imo high speed (though itself a gun game) is not better than f14.

I'm really enjoying F14 a lot...comrade.

ebay.com link: Williams F 14 Tomcat Pinball Decals Mod Yagov and Lift Off Stickers set

Might make some slight tweaks but the lighting is now done. Love the ice blue 2SMDs!
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JK I swapped the kill lights with some green 2SMDs I had. I'm digging it.
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Unrelated, but my test menu goes straight into display test and I can't get it out. Connections look fine. Any ideas?
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You did well for yourself little buddy

Not sure why but my left decal didn't fit at all. Very weird. He asked for measurements and said he'd double check things.. But I'm assuming my plastic is just some oddball junk.

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Going to be working slowly on getting these added in. Forgot to buy corresponding kill targets so I'll order more at some point, probably either clear or green to match the bulbs I used.

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Mine has that issue also. It likes to report the right spinner as a stuck switch.. But it works fine Durning normal play.

That looks so damn good. Crazy jealous!

Side note: the old PF looks better than mine. That makes me very sad lol

Did that to my high speed the day after finishing it, but it was clearly my own fault as I was trying to adjust flipper position and didn't loosen it enough (rushed adjusting, yay).

Purple flipper rubber, bring me all your hate

Also realized I have this thing at 7.5-8 degrees of slope (depending on whether I use the 7.5 measurement with my phone in the case, sitting on a pop socket, or if I try it case-less which could skew because of the camera lens) and it's naaaaasty. The ball drops like a lead weight. But I'm leaving it like this -- F-14 is supposed to be brutal.

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I was thinking that, also. My high speed had issues with the apron. It was bent and in the way of the kickout. Had to carefully bend it back and no more issues. Installed incorrectly I could see issues also. Glad you're up and working again!

Another dead giveaway is if you notice ANY feeling of looseness when you pull up on the apron. The metal brackets have to be tight but loose enough to let the apron slide in. Too lose and it wiggles around. Too tight and you can't slide it in (giggity). It takes some adjustment to get it exactly where it needs to be.

Well crap. Anyone know the part number to replace what I just broke? For the right loop (gate).
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Looks like part SW-1A-168 (unobtainium), A-11664 (unobtainium), and Action Pinball says this part will work also..?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=18807

Yeah, doesn't look like anyone stocks the part.. Hoping this gottleib part works, I guess. I'll have to swap my diode over.

That's not terrible. The gottleib switch is $10 and the decals (mine are missing) are $6.

Good catch. Might be worth just grabbing that instead.

Blah. Made the mistake of waiting around for his super slow responses and missed out. So I guess I'm back on the prowl. He said he doesn't have the actual gate switches.. which is weird because he definitely has at least one of the gates... Meh

I'm doubting there's any way to repair this in any way, but does anyone know if it's possible to buy JUST this leaf?
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//Edit I soldered it back together and started trying to adjust again. Couldn't get it to move worth a damn... Then it broke again. So I'm pretty sure I'm back to either sourcing a leaf or an entire switch stack.

Yeah, I ended up ordering one. I went to replace my pop cap (Evo + starburst red cap looks AWESOME) last night and found that my lower right flipper suddenly isn't working and that wonderful left gate that WAS working fine is suddenly getting stuck and keeping the ball from falling through. So I might just beat it with a hammer at this point.

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You son of a...

Don't you have an eight ball deluxe to be working on?! Oh, wait, I have all the stuff you need in my garage....

Beauty!

From my understanding that's just part of attract mode. More than one person has told me "..Just wait until it goes into its 20 minute attract mode..."

Looks great! I'm making progress on some things also. My F14 needs some definite attention, but it's further down the list I'm afraid.

Two down, 96 million more to go. These front ones were... Uh... Interesting in how they were secured together.

Both stacks disintegrated in my hands as I tried to remove the blade, so I had to reassemble completely from scratch. I really hope the remaining 18 don't do the same.

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The blues...oh my! Side note: it's waaaaay too cramped where these lower switch stacks are, ugh!

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Blues all done, 6 reds tomorrow and then I have to wait to do my middle (1-3 left and 4-6 right) in yellow until I have them back.

At least, I think I'm going yellow.. It's that or green.. Depends on what gets used on my eight ball deluxe I guess..
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#6 screws (3/4") with kepnuts. It's snug, but works.

Pics from my high speed, but I'm following the same guidelines.

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I need to replace my right gate switch, completely at this point. I bought the Gottleib part with intention of just stealing the blade off it and now I've got two piles of switch parts.

Is there any way to buy replacement 'tube' pieces for these Williams switches? I can probably reconstruct this stupid stack if it's possible to buy replacements of those.

Looking good! That bent nail fix is hilarious, but it works.... Lol

Every single target I've replaced thus far on this machine has caused the entire stack to fall apart in my hands. I've gotten used to just keeping the rivets (loosely) in place while I position my hands to deal with everything that's come apart. Usually it's the stupid target blade clinging to the inner plastic tube pieces. I slightly wallow out the holes on all my new target blades prior to install for this very reason.

Still 6 more red to go and 6 white. Bleh.

Unfortunately since I destroyed my right gate switch entirely, I've broken the connection on several things (like the microswitch for the right middle ball eject) and more or less rendered my game inoperable for now. Sigh.

I hate that switch, so damn much. Someday I'll get it right and I'll never have to touch the damn thing again. Until then, I hate it.

Hahahahahaha, suckerrrrrrrr!!!!

http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/product_info.php?products_id=55{1}25

Don't forget to grab clear pop bodies while you're there, I think he's the only guy selling them:

http://pinball-mods.com/oscom/product_info.php?products_id=42{1}70

I went with frosted clear since nobody seems to sell the plastic piece that actually sits ON the playfield and thus, shows through the bumper body a bit. Looks fine if the pop has white art under it but I imagine it looks less great on a non-white background.
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As always, you're the MVP.

I'm buying 9 million of these stupid things.

Someday I want to pull my ugly bubbling mylar but I won't risk it unless a hardtop exists, that way I know I have outs.

My cab is hella sucky (especially the head) so I'm not sure just now much money is worth putting into it. Not that I usually care, but this cab is pretty fuggo. I'd hardtop it in a second.

It should be clear, unless yellowed. Use whatever bulb you want. I went with a purple passion bulb from comet. I believe original was a bulb with a green plastic sleeve.

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Ah, well that makes much more sense. Mine is yellowed and not great. White ones look great. Avoid clear unless you want to be blind... Lol

For me, a large part of what makes me love F14 is the absurd light show and obnoxious sounds. I might go full on idiot mode with LED flashers someday, just because. I want to add in the ones that were factory deleted also... because.

My red and blue beacons are plenty salvageable with a quality buff job, but I don't think there's any proper saving the white one. It's too yellowed and the mounting base is chipped anyway. So I need to source a replacement... Someday.

I still need to fix my right lane and spinner (need to order more parts but I'm struggling figuring out a part I need for my meteor) and I need to finish up with the replacement of my target blades. Still have both sets of TOM to do as well as the 1-6 white center targets. But seeing as how every single damn stack I've disassembled has fallen apart in my hands and I've now lost several plastic tubes...I need replacements.

One step forward, 37 steps back.

Oh, random question freeplay40, since you're here... Ever given any thought about a clear diverter for F-14? I was talking to a friend about this the other day. Just curious!

Looks great. Love your stickers over the clear plastics. For whatever reason my upper left piece fit really poorly and kinda looks like crap because of that. Not sure why/how my piece is so messed up. All the other stickers fit perfectly.

I've seen links fly here and there but I haven't looked recently. Whatcha got?

Have him PM me a price? Shipping to 66605 if he needs it for a quote. First class would be fine if it's light enough.

If you end up buying new plastics please sell me the clear diverter cover (upper left)! Mine is somehow not the same size as everyone else's and the sticker set I bought didn't install worth a damn on that piece.

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It's not an original piece. A guy in Canada makes them and sells them on eBay. ~$50 iirc. I do agree they look awesome. Just wish my plastic hadn't been so damn awful.

You don't have to let it go freeeeee, but I'd certainly appreciate being able to get my hands on one! A disgusting yellowed, but not warped, one would be absolutely perfect.

Mine was warped as all hell, I'm betting I shrunk the damn thing when I went to flatten it in my oven. That hadn't occurred to me until just now, but it makes sense. Self-inflicted pain, but I'm not sure it would have been useable for the sticker as it was before, anyway. Or at least, it probably would have looked like crap.

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Oven, at a very low temp, is supposed to be the way. But I can't think of any other reason why my plastic would be so far off of the norm.

Don't believe this guy, he doesn't know anything about plastic! KIIIIIDDDINGGGG. I 100% agree, take it slow and don't get rushed. Get it to juuuust the right spot where it's pliable and then let a weight do the rest.

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I went with ice blue LEDs for arrows and translucent light blue standup targets which I really like but every time I see a super vivid dark blue setup I wonder if I made the right call

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That's what I was going for. Going with yellow translucent for 1-6 and red translucent for TOM.. And you can see the purple translucent up front.

+1

Hope he likes crappy, poorly adjusted games if he's coming here though

My man!

One thing I've learned from multiple-machine ownership, there's always one or fifty things wrong. Almost never zero.. And if currently zero, probably 5+ by next week.

Did the guy in Canada who was making the awesome vinyl stickers drop dead? I can't seem to get hold of him anymore, and now that I have a new left plastic I need to buy the corresponding sticker for it. Is he active on pinside by chance?

Side note, finally got back around to trying to fix my flaky right gate (it hasn't ever worked in the time I've owned this) after exploding the entire stack and then losing one of the tubes... I had it left like this for weeks while I drowned at work, decided to finally tackle it today.

As per usual with this damn thing, I just couldn't get it to really work consistently right. So I went to pull the wire hook from the top and bent it. Oops. Except it fixed the issue and now it registers properly. Whatever, good enough.

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Groan. I had this happen several times today. Never, prior to swapping the target blades. I'm not sure if the ones I bought are just too flimsy to withstand direct hits up front or what, but UGH. And there's only one small post with a small rubber on it behind there..I assume that's correct?

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Also, I don't know if it's just how F14 plays or what but compared to how my other games all play, F14 seems like the ball drops like a lead weight. I know my slope isn't super aggressive. Do your machines play similarly in this regard?

Still no idea why the gap was so large with my new target blades. I moved the brackets inward, new outer screw hole between the original screw holes, and secured. Hopefully that doesn't screw up any of the other gameplay dynamics.

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Respectfully, I disagree, and if anyone ever drops that line on me I'll tell them to drop my number too. Anyone who owns a pinball machine for more than about 12 seconds should very quickly realize that things break all.the.damn.time. At any given moment there seems to always be some stupid quirk with every machine I own or play.

I get what you're saying, people expect a lot of things, but I know Flash personally and he isn't doing this as some sort of high priced service, he's doing it because he can't help but try to assist people who truly don't have any idea what the hell they're doing. And I assure you, he's not just blindly poking around, either...

Kind of a crappy unnecessary response post to him if you ask me, but you do you.

Grumpy, as always, you are my hero.

FTFY

Grumpy seems to always have some useful info to pitch in, especially when it comes to Sys11 games. I/we are quick to tell him how much we appreciate him, because he's quick to help us whenever we need it. Kinda like reading Vid's guides on things..unbelievable resource to the community that would have had NONE of this available in the olden days. We have it so easy lol

Wow!

LOL wrong pic. Love it.

Good to note on the Rottendog board....weird, but useful info.

Round 2 for me with F-14. This one is a much nicer starting point than my last one. Knocked out all the features LEDs this morning and cleaned/magic-erased/polished/waxed the lower 1/4 this afternoon. The middle area should go much faster in some ways because I won't be spending as much time working out ball swirls/marks on exposed wood. Then again, I'll be removing wire forms and all the crap on the sides so... maybe a wash.

I was amazed how light a coating of dust there was under the apron. With just a light wipe from a paper towel it was already shiny.

I'd still love to pull the mylar and level inserts...but I'm not brave enough to try. Maybe someday.

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Yeah, I'm not pulling my mylar...at least for now... I'll polish it up as best I can and deal with it. Whatever raised inserts I have aren't currently affecting ball travel so nbd. I just think the mylar looks ugly.

Someday. Maybe. My clearcoat guy already has one of my projects (Stars) about 3 or 4 back in queue as it is. No sense building more on top of that right now.

Similar to my approach, I use Meguiars Ultimate Polish and a Dremel Versa.

The speedball on a cordless drill may get higher RPM though, so it might work better for the mylar. I think I have one of those around, as well as some other products, so I'll check my supply. Good idea.

Stripped the rest of the topside today and cleaned plastics. Almost time to dig in to cleaning and polishing the middle/top.

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Pushed through and got it back in one piece tonight.

Need to replace one of my sling switches (it's bent to hell and I can't adjust it out), clean backing plates/replace foam on 5ish targets, and clean all the target faces. Then I'm basically done with the playfield, at least for a bit.

I did fly a bit too close to the sun in one spot (the discolored area up top between the two pieces of mylar) and then got really gunshy about doing much more elsewhere. So there are still some swirls to buff out later on down the road.

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Straight up?! That's a hell of a trade!

Sometimes it's worth it to just get one already finished. I've been afraid to dig into my WCS since I got it -- the topside teardown looks pretty awful.

Starting work on this for a friend so it can be sold as soon as I'm done shopping it out, I'm seeing weird behavior right off the bat:

Ball ejects to the shooter lane just fine to start a ball. As soon as it hits the middle switch from the wire form it ends the ball and starts the next ball. DOES NOT eject. If I manually eject the ball and let it drain it ends the next ball.

I assume there's a broken wire or something like that--I've not dug in yet--but this one just seems a bit nutty. Anyone experienced something similar?

I'm not home to mess with it more so I intend to dig more when I can.. just figured I'd post here in the interim to ask.

Thanks!

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Both switches register correctly as L CENT EJECT and R CENT EJECT. Outhole registers correctly as OUTHOLE.

I'm less confused by the fact that the solenoids don't fire to actually eject and far more confused that the game correctly registers the switches but still ends the ball as though it thinks it's the outhole... or something. Weird.

Woof. The only solenoids on the game that appear to be firing (ignoring flashers) are slings and flippers. I've got some craziness going on, I don't feel like digging into it tonight. I'll go mess around this weekend. Hoping it's not board problems...

All looked fine and fuses are good. This is all apparently new behavior for this so it looks like I'll have plenty of fun ahead.

So, admittedly I'm clueless a lot of the time but I shouldn't have continuity across different diodes of this playfield diode board..should I? The vast majority of solenoids aren't working.

Also, I noticed this...err...repair?. . .

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0.8V, pretty much on all of them.

I didn't... but this sure doesn't look great. I'll check voltages tomorrow.

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Ah yes, I see that too. I can't decide if that's a lame repair or perfectly adequate. Seems like yet another shortcut to save $1.50, which is..whatever, I guess.

I need to get out to the shop later today and check some voltages. The weather is crummy again. Ugh.

Makes sense. Similar to the connector in the bottom right. This board has had wires (and a connector) extended off of it in order to make the connection. My repair guy told me those are obsolete and he doesn't have any, from past repairs I've had to have him make.

So I tested voltages on the connector. I'm not sure which ones are 6 7 and 8 but the left three measure 17.X, 27.X, and 27.X top to bottom. The rest...0.

Notes I received (but forgot about until now) on this machine are as follows:

"Needs flipper rebuilds, beacon lights broken, we got halfway through removing the ground wires from the flasher boards (LEDs) before I had to load Richard into an ambulance and it didn't get looked at again"

Sounds pretty similar to my issues. Oof.

Does anyone have a decent used translite that they're no longer using? I have no idea what happened to the one in my shop but I had it laying on one of my games and the ink just absolutely grenaded itself. I'm assuming the sun was on it for an extended period of time while I was working and I just didn't notice.

I'm going to be selling the game in my shop for my friend soon, but it'll be far easier to sell with a translite than with just a clear piece of glass in the backbox. Doesn't have to be perfect.

Thanks!