F-14 Tomcat
Williams, 1987You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider kguenther6.
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Quoted from embryonjohn:Does the Yagov kicker supposed to kick it down only once is say, three times, or does it supposed to shoot it back every time? Mine's sporadic.
It's supposed to do it every time. But it's hard to see if the ball actually makes it all the way up. Put your pin in switch test mode and roll a ball up there and make sure it registers every time. Might need to adjust the switch.
Quoted from Spencer:Any-one have the issue where all the out-lane switches don't work? ( including the kick-back ) Ive checked all the fuses, everything was working fine and then I noticed the kick-back didn't work. Checked all 4 switches and none are working now??
These are all in the same column (8) of the switch matrix. Put the pin in the switch test and remove J8 and J10 and use a jumper wire to jump the pins j8-9 with J10-3 through J10-7 and see if it registers. This will tell you if you have a problem on the board or the playfield. If it's the playfield then you probably have a wire that came loose or a bad diode. If it's the board start with replacing the Q46 transistor.
Quoted from FLASHBALL:How can I tell which transistor is the predriver transistor?
You have to read the schematic. Q28 is the predriver for Q32. If you still have an issue after replaceing Q28 then replace the IC at U20.
Quoted from BrewNinja:I wondering if someone can help me with an issue Im having. When locking in balls, ball 1 locks, ball 2 locks, ball 3 locks, then when ball 4 comes to lock, it kicks the ball out of the right shoot (ball 3) like it should. At that point, there should be 3 balls locked, ready to start multiball. However, as soon as I activate the upper right flipper, it shoots the top right ball out (where ball 3 locks), so that I have 2 balls going. I know that switch is bad (I tested and found it only sometimes activates to know a ball is there), but cant see why that would cause this issue. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks!
The pin thinks that your ramp switch was activated. I'm not sure which ball your talking about but the pin thinks switch 30, 31 or 32 has activated. If it detects that it will shoot the ball out thinking another ball is coming. Remove the balls. Put the pin into the switch level test that will show multiple switch closers and activate the flipper and it will probably show the ramp switch activating as well. Test other switches in the same rows/columns and see if you get the same results. But you have some type of switch matrix problem. Your going to have to test around to see if its a switch row or column problem. Or it could be something shorting out that is causing the other switches to fire.
Quoted from Fifty:Does anyone have a logic probe that is willing to buzz out pin 10 and 11 of U49 for me. I'm getting the following in attract mode;
My F14 is down and out right now. When I get it working again I will be glad to do this but it might be a few days or next week before I can get to it. Hopefully someone else will be able to help out before then.
Quoted from nerdygrrl:I rebuilt the top flippers on my F14 and now the top left is kind of shotgunning. I tried adjusting the switches, but it's either doing this or not working at all. Can something other than a stuck switch cause this?
Just a guess would be that the coil has lost the low power side of the coil. After the EOS switch engages to enable the low power side of the coil if its not working it will drop down and the EOS will disengage and fire the coil again. Inspect the coil and make sure all the tiny coil wires are connected and not broken. Also make sure all the power wires are secure and you have power to them.
Quoted from nerdygrrl:Other odd thing was that this coil does not have any diodes on it? That being said it was working before we took apart the flippers to rebuild.
Do you have power at all your lugs? Put the black lead of your DMM to the metal side rail or the ground braid and the red lead on each lug of the coil and you should get 50V at each lug.
I would also put diodes on the coil. I don't know if that would keep the coil from working or not but you can damage your board if they aren't on there.
Quoted from FLASHBALL:Is there a relay associated with solenoid 3A? I'm reading that sometimes the relay boards need solder reflowed on the back side. I see that the grey wire on my solenoid is linked directly to a small board that says snubber.
Yes, I forgot about the relay boards. If your diode on the coil failed it can cause the switches on your relay to take some abuse. You will need to pry off the plastic cover of the relay and check the switches and make sure they are clean and not welded together. If they are welded together it will cause the coil to lock on. You can clean these switches with flexstone or small file as these are not gold plated. Also test the resistor on the relay board with your MM and make sure its good.
Quoted from PPS:Can someone that has immediate access to an F-14 please give me a call to help me with something?, I'm trying to get some info about a dimension that I want to check for a part. My F-14 is 4 hours away so I can't get directly to it!
thanks,
rick 408-891-7878
calling now
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Burlington, KY