(Topic ID: 66172)

F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.

By Hellfire

10 years ago


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  • 5,581 posts
  • 467 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 4 days ago by Jumping-Box
  • Topic is favorited by 205 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

19 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #91 Insert color list Posted by jodini (10 years ago)

Post #98 Video - Add red flashers back to light show. Posted by Patofnaud (10 years ago)

Post #163 Technical Sheet - Matrix, etc. Posted by Snux (10 years ago)

Post #205 Speaker Panel - Early model= glue Posted by IceCreamMan (10 years ago)

Post #406 Pop bumper cap replacement. Posted by Fifty (9 years ago)

Post #466 Bulletproof - rectifier fuses Posted by Snux (9 years ago)

Post #477 Removing warming resistors Posted by Jumping-Box (9 years ago)

Post #513 Cliffy Flipper Frames Posted by Xenon75 (9 years ago)

Post #569 How to increase Bonus Posted by wayout440 (9 years ago)

Post #747 Pinball Cards Posted by agodfrey (9 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider inkochnito.
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#978 9 years ago

On F-14 the Flight Insurance is an actual ball save that returns ball to shooter lane after a Yagaov kicker drain or on last ball if score is low enough, depending on game settings.
Think F-14 was first game to have an actual ball save.

To bad this option is turned off when you set the game to "no extra balls".
The game "sees" the flight insurance as an extra ball.
I wish there was a way to keep the flight insurance, but no extra balls.

Peter

6 months later
#1453 8 years ago

I just created a Tech Chart for F-14 Tomcat.
I think it might come in handy when trying to repair your game.
It is possible there are errors in the file.
When you do find them, please let me know and I'll correct it.
After all, I'm only human

Look in the Tech Chart section in the left column.
www.inkochnito.nl

Peter

1 week later
#1461 8 years ago
Quoted from JPscranton:

Anyone know if the old style F14 display is intercahngeable with the newer style Display board ?
Old one was left over from Millionaire and looks like this :
ps-11415-f_acc.jpg
Newer style looks like this :
PS-11610.jpg
Only difference appears to be mounting points which could be solved with simple stand off relocation.
Thanks guys
Only reason I ask is the old style F14 display is out of stock everywhere!

Yes, it works exactly the same.
Just the mounting holes are different.

5 months later
#1786 8 years ago

Just a reminder.....
Put fuses in the AC power line before the bridge rectifiers.
That goes for both of the bridge rectifiers in the back box.
Otherwise you have a great risk of fire in the wiring if one of the rectifiers go bad in the ac side.
You can also use my Bridge Board which replaces both rectifiers, the big cap and add fuses and control leds.
For more information goto www.inkochnito.nl and click on the Bridge Board image.

Also available from my website is a Tech Chart for F14-Tomcat.
Comes in very handy when you are looking for some quick information.
Marco Specialties sells them printed on sticky vinyl or you can print the file yourself.
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Williams_F-14_Tomcat_Tech_Chart.pdf

Peter
www.inkochnito.nl

#1788 8 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

How much for the bridge board?
BTW, thank you Inkochnito for all your hard work reproducing the Tech Charts, Coil Wraps, and the rest of the stuff on your website.

Bridge Boards are available from: Big Daddy Enterprises and Marco Specialties for fifty quid.
http://bigdaddy-enterprises.com/boards/boards-index.htm#bridgeboard
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/5040-09051-RC

Here you can find some guide lines for installing the Bridge Board:
http://home.kpn.nl/p.koch3/Inkochnito_Bridge_Board.pdf

Peter
www.inkochnito.nl

8 months later
4 months later
#2328 7 years ago

Those boards are great!
They solve 5 problems in one go.
Replaces both rectifiers, adds both fuses and replaces the BIG cap.
More info is on my website www.inkochnito.nl
Just click on the Bridge Boared image.
Here is an image from my proto type board in F14...

P3191414 (resized).JPGP3191414 (resized).JPG

1 month later
#2451 6 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Here is my delema folks. When I got this machine it was in rough shape. Total tear down and resto. It was missing the main pcb at the time. I have a rotten dog replacement but no way of knowing how to connect the wires. Do any of you have pics that I could use as a reference?

Just a small tip, forget about placing those bridge rectifiers back in.
Replace them with a new Bridge Board.
I've got a series of pictures on my website how to do this.
Bridge Boards are available at Big Daddy Enterprises and Marco Specialties.
Also add fuses for the special solenoids while you're at it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/special-solenoid-saver-board-for-wms-3-7#post-3446995

Peter
www.inkochnito.nl

1 year later
#3383 5 years ago

Maybe...
First find the coil which is causing the problem by going into the solenoid test.

2 years later
#4716 3 years ago
Quoted from Acreacher:

Good evening everyone. I have recently acquired an F-14 and I have been doing research for when I start to pull everything apart and give it a good cleaning. I am seeing a difference in what is in the manual, Williams Parts Catalog, and what is on my machine as far as the solenoids. The WPC shows there are 2 AE-23-800-13 where the manual doesn't show any, and I have at least 3 on my playfield. In everyone's experience which is the way to go as far as reliability and correctness? Thanks in advance.
Scott

I see 12 AE-23-800 coils.
The -13 is just a different coil sleeve or diode.
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Williams_F-14_Tomcat_Tech_Chart.pdf

Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl

1 week later
#4734 3 years ago
Quoted from mikepmcs:

also, in the second photo, which is my machine, does the 87167 mean the 167th day of 1987? June 16th, 1987(tuesday)
I can't find anything on how to read the date of manufacture.
[quoted image]

Yes, you are correct.
YYDDMM format.
I've created several reproduction files for the STD-795 FCC sticker and they all look the same format.
When it is month 10, 11 or 12 you will get a digit more.

Coil wrappers are on my website http://www.inkochnito.nl
Scroll down to "Coil Wrappers" and read the top text of the page to get the right file.

Peter

3 months later
#4824 2 years ago
Quoted from RobDutch:

Anyone got a spare left wire gate? Missing one in my game and they're unobtainable here.. I know they're for sale at Marcos, but I really don't like the shipping costs to the Netherlands.
If you've got a used/new one, please send me a pm
[quoted image]

I've got one for you....

1 month later
#4850 2 years ago

b558209cfa3300f9b6889039ecf5b49264027ee5 (resized).jpgb558209cfa3300f9b6889039ecf5b49264027ee5 (resized).jpg

Use a ZPY91 Vishay zener to lower the voltage to 91V and -91V.

1 month later
#4888 2 years ago

The varistor is there to protect against a too high solenoid voltage.
Sometimes they go bad.
Just replace it.
Check your voltage.
Check the rectifier (in the backbox) and put a fuse in line.
Or use a Bridge Board.

#4895 2 years ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Well, no success today. Socketed and replaced the 7402 installed new predriver transistors. Put the board in and all seemed fine. Ran a solenoid test and when it got to the diverters one diverter locked on again. I immediately shut off the power.
The coils are new and are wired exactly like my machine. So I dont understand whats going on here...
Tested the Tip102s both are good on one leg bad on the other. Tested the new chip with a logic probe and it appears to be bad again too.
Disappointing.
What should I look for next?

Is there a diode on the coil?
Is it good?
Just replace it anyway as it is only a few cents part.

2 weeks later
#4907 2 years ago
Quoted from statictrance:

Pull the fuse out and test it with a meter. Especially on a slow blow, 'looks' good isn't always good.
Determine which transistor it is and ground out the tab. Can also figure which line on the snubber board is connected to transistor and ground that to test as well.

That would be Q6.
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Williams_F-14_Tomcat_Tech_Chart.pdf

4 months later
#4977 2 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

Yep Williams shipped with proto roms when that was what was available. Any of your favorite ROM burning services can get you the latest. Upgrade sound roms as well if they are proto.

In Pinmame we only have the L1 sound roms.
No other files available right now.
If the sound roms are indeed proto, just should save them.

7 months later
#5146 1 year ago

The beacon lights are switched via a relay in the backbox (center of the backbox).
The motor is connected parallel to the lights.
If the lights don't work, the motor won't work.
No resistors used for the beacon lights.
They aren't flashers.
Make sure the fuse below the relay board is not broken. (4Amp SB).
It is common for the motor to break down.
The wires often break with no possibility to repair them.
You might need to replace it.
This motor is hard to find and expencive.
I used a 24VDC motor (90 RPM) from AliExpess for only a few bucs.
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/32886966857.html
Put in a small rectifier to change the 28VAC to 28VDC for the motor only.
It works perfectly.

8 months later
#5397 1 year ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

I didn't... but this sure doesn't look great. I'll check voltages tomorrow.
[quoted image]

The plastic is toasty, but the pins look good.
They removed the burned pins and replaced them with the un-used pins.

#5399 1 year ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Ah yes, I see that too. I can't decide if that's a lame repair or perfectly adequate. Seems like yet another shortcut to save $1.50, which is..whatever, I guess.
I need to get out to the shop later today and check some voltages. The weather is crummy again. Ugh.

The 12-pin print header is obsolete and not available or hard to come by.
This is a way of repair which is done more and more lately.

9 months later
#5529 87 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Your new coil is not the correct size, and now the diode on the new coil is bad too. Also you did damage to the cpu board, Q-25 is shorted and you may have damaged the diode on the old coil, Q-21 and U-20. I would replace Q-25, Q-21 and the diode on the old coil and retest it. There is nothing wrong with the old coil, most likely a mechanical issue that was solved with the new parts.

Also, don't forget to put two fuses in line with the bridge rectifiers in the backbox or use a Bridge Board.
If something goes wroung, the wires to the transformer will burn....

http://www.inkochnito.nl and click on the Bridge Board image for more information.

Peter

#5533 83 days ago
Quoted from Cariba:

So Tomcat needs fuses for Bridge Rectifiers like Pin*Bot needs?

Short anwser, yes!

Great explanation @DumbAss

#5536 77 days ago

Check the upper TOM targets.
Those are near Yagov and the upper left loop gate...

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