(Topic ID: 66172)

F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.


By Hellfire

6 years ago



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344 posts in this topic match your search for posts by grumpy. You are on page 1 of 2.
#2002 3 years ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

The bottom two displays on my F14 have stopped working (player 3 and player 4). Any ideas of what to check?

Do you have a logic probe?

#2008 3 years ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

The spacer or standoff I think in the manual is P/N 02-4296-1

Its just aluminum tubing, cut to size. At work right now but I could measure tomorrow for you.

#2010 3 years ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

Might be able to find some scrap tubing at work

They are 13/16 inch long.

#2014 3 years ago

Take a pic of the sockets on the insert board, so I can see the color of wires on the sockets.

1 week later
#2024 3 years ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

If this somehow got stuck, would this cause the L/H center and the far right area where the wire ramps drop the ball at to fail and not kick the ball out into play??

If the switches were bad the ball would sit there for 10 seconds then the ball search would kick the ball out. Since that doesn't happen the coil can't fire because there is no power or a board issue.

#2026 3 years ago

Did you check F-4 fuse on the power supply?

#2029 3 years ago

Look at page 28 in the manual. The solenoid 03a ball popper is controlled by the AC relay and transistor Q32. The relay powers the solenoid and the transistor gives it a ground. Page 28 shows the AC relay on the right side. Power goes thru the relay from Sol B+ to NC terminal any time the power is on. Then power goes thru the fuse which is under the playfield and then to the solenoid. So with the game powered on, remove the balls and lift the p/f. Check for DC power (@ 74 volts DC) at both sides of the fuse under the p/f, if its good then check for power on both sides of the coil. If this is good then page 28 shows that there is a diode board (# 11234) inline between the coil and the transistor. Since your troubleshooting solenoid 03a you would check for power on both sides of diode A3 on the diode board which in located in the bottom of the cabinet. If this is good then check for power at the metal tab of Q32 on the CPU board in the back box. If you have power on the transistor then you have a board problem.

#2032 3 years ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

If I need to order a new board, would it be the main large one in the back with all of the chipsets in it? Any ideas on where to look into purchasing one?

I'm 99% sure this isn't needed. If you fix solenoid 03a, then the rest will most likely be fixed at the same time. Your problem looks like a broken power wire. To bad you had to work on Sunday.

#2034 3 years ago

Page 46 of the manual shows all of the solenoids and flashers and there placement and correct numbers.

#2035 3 years ago

Look at the 2.5 slow blow fuse in the backbox just above the flipper power supply. It has purple/yellow wires on it.

#2038 3 years ago

Glad to help, now post the pic of those flasher sockets that are giving trouble to get this game 100%.

#2041 3 years ago

If you are going to run LEDs in the flashers then remove the two smaller resistors on that flash lamp board. Since the brown/black flash circuit isn't working with standard #89 bulbs, then with the power off ohm the big resistor on the left. It should be 5 ohms. Also check for cracked solder joints on the board for the resistor. If this all checks out OK then turn on the game and go into solenoid test #9 and lock the advance button down so it stays on #9 test. Then use a jumper wire across the big resistor on the left, don't do too long as it will burn out the bulbs. Does it light with the jumper? If it lights with a jumper then the resistor needs to be replaced. Now onto your other problem, most LEDs bulbs are polarity sensitive and I needed the pic to see which wires are in the wrong place. Your bad luck is every wire is wrong on all four sockets. This will all need to be changed to get the LEDs to light. On the bright side, its good soldering practice.

#2048 3 years ago

You wont find much in the manual on the flasher wiring. In the pic you posted the red wire is the positive voltage. The positive voltage is then daisy chained to all four bulbs. The problem is that the positive voltage needs to go to the center pin of the bulb socket, but yours is going to the side terminal of each socket. So for example the upper left bulb socket, remove the single wire from the center pin and put aside then remove the two wires from the side terminal and install them onto the center pin terminal then install the single wire you first removed to the side terminal. Then repeat the reversing of the wires for each socket. How did the resistor test go?

#2051 3 years ago

Take a pic when your done and I can double check it before you power it back up.

1 week later
#2054 3 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

What do you think ?

1 No vote.

#2059 3 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

My daughter says blue but i dont think so

I'm with her.

#2061 3 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

maybe give blue a shot

Match the blue in the lower right of the translite. Also semigloss please. If it looks as good as I (and your daughter) think, I might do this to my pin.

#2072 3 years ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

My next job is the rotating beacon.

This is AC power so no polarity issues when connecting the motor. Turn this on in coil test and retest with meter set to AC volts.

#2073 3 years ago

Dark blue with black legs?

#2077 3 years ago

It could end up looking like a 300lb black eye.

#2080 3 years ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

Had 14 VAC the whole time.

When measuring AC volts you need to measure across both sides of the transformer coil and not to the ground braid. But since you got 14 volts AC its most likely fine. With game on take a jumper and connect it to the ground braid and touch it to the metal tab of Q-6 on the MPU board. This should make the lights come on and rotate.

#2082 3 years ago

If the belts are to tight it causes problems. While they are in the backbox just pull (stretch)them a couple inches and release. If you want to test the power again, there is a 4 pin molex connector that has a red, brown, and two white/blue wires in it. With the game on put your test leads in the blue/white wires and it should be @ 32 VAC.

#2086 3 years ago

That's good.

Quoted from jetmechinnc:Tried to push it in, no idea if it moved.

Does it have a socket, if so its been replaced before. Now to fix the beacon transistor Q-6. Do you have a logic probe?

#2089 3 years ago

First off are you capable of replacing a transistor or an IC chip? If you are then a logic probe is something you should have in you tool box.

#2091 3 years ago

Can you find a junk circuit board to play with? Check out Terry B soldering guide that he post here, its a must.

#2093 3 years ago

If I was to guess I would replace Q-2 and Q-6. Also when I replace TIP122, I use TIP102 as they are more robust.

#2094 3 years ago
Quoted from jetmechinnc:

Not the relay at the circuit board below the motor?

When you grounded the tab on Q-6 and the motor and lights came on, this checked the wiring, the relay and motor and bulbs. The only thing left is the CPU board.

1 month later
#2132 2 years ago
Quoted from aerobert:

Anyone might know why my flashers 9 and 10 aren't working?

Check the flasher board on the back side of the insert board. Also check for power at the bulb pairs, I think its a orange or red wire.

#2134 2 years ago
Quoted from aerobert:

"Back side of insert board"

The board behind the translight.

#2139 2 years ago
Quoted from Frogman:

but not select or make changes.

Use the credit switch for changes.

#2140 2 years ago
Quoted from Frogman:

button on the left of this picture was no longer working.

This is the high score reset button, press and hold for 5 seconds to reset game high scores.

#2145 2 years ago
Quoted from aerobert:

it must be the board underneath since backbox works.

There is a separate flasher board for the backbox and for the playfield. I think its next to the shooter lane and should have a Wht/Blk wire going to it. In solenoid test, repeat solenoid #10 and briefly place a jumper across the larger resistor and see it the flasher bulb works. If the bulb flashes with the jumper on the resistor then the resistor is bad. Don't leave the jumper on to long as it will burn out your bulb.

#2148 2 years ago
Quoted from aerobert:

And as I was standing there with the soldering iron, the power went in the neighbourhood and I let out a big WTF

You need to get a smaller soldering iron!

#2152 2 years ago
shades required!!

1 month later
#2232 2 years ago
Quoted from miatawnt2b:

The pin plays fine except for the top left flipper flutters. From what minimal research I've done this is possibly a hold coil, the diode on the coil, or a transistor. Any thoughts on this?

No transistors in this circuit for older games like this, may guess is a broken hold winding.

Quoted from miatawnt2b:Needs a blue Beacon lens unless i can glue the cracks

Buy a new one for 30 dollars.

Quoted from miatawnt2b:I hear all the effects and voices, but there is no music. I'm going to pull out the sound board and clean it up a bit, reseat the roms and see where we're at.

If this doesn't work let me know as I have an early sound board for this.

Quoted from miatawnt2b:I'll get some pics up this evening.

Way to go and a great price too, you will love this game.

1 week later
#2246 2 years ago
Quoted from raplaka75:

Can anyone point me to the right direction on how I can resolve this issue please?

Start with solenoid test and see if the slings work then. If they work in test then you need to test the switches to see if they are working.

#2249 2 years ago
Quoted from raplaka75:

I've checked it in test mode and no reaction

In attract mode use a jumper wire connected to the ground braid and briefly touch the metal tab of Q-75. Does the sling fire now?

#2251 2 years ago

Look on the big board, right hand side @ half way up by the blue relay.

#2254 2 years ago
Quoted from raplaka75:

I've also checked out the c55 resistor it looks burnt

This is R-78 resistor and Q-49, this part of the switch matrix.

Quoted from raplaka75:Could it be the LED bulbs I've replaced that's causing the problem?

If you shorted the lamp power or coil power to the switch matrix circuit it could have done some damage to these components.

Quoted from raplaka75:I've checked the Q75 and it looks good

They don't always have visual damage when they are bad, so testing is required to determine there functionality.

#2268 2 years ago
Quoted from Lemank:

Can someone explain this board?

This a A/C relay board and has nothing to do with your pop bumper, this relay switches between a side solenoids and c side flashers.

#2270 2 years ago
Quoted from Lemank:

I dont think the two reds should be soldered together.

The red wires are installed correctly even tho it doesn't seem right. The labels on the board are what doesn't make sense.

#2273 2 years ago
Quoted from Lemank:

We're going to trace the wire to see if it has a short somewhere.

If the wire is shorted you blow the fuse as soon as you turn the power switch on but it will not blow the transistor.

#2276 2 years ago

Lemank

First you need to cut the diode off of the coil and check the coil for ohms. It should be @ 4ohms. Then check that the sleeve isn't melted and the plunger moves freely. Then install a new diode correctly on the coil. Then replace Q-68 and Q-69 on the CPU. Then check that the skirt isn't sticky and the switch is adjusted correctly. Remove J-18 and J-19 and power up the machine in attract mode. Hook up J-19 while watching the coil, if it locks on then turn it off. If it doesn't lock on then start a game, does it lock on now? If it doesn't lock on then connect J-18, does it lock on now? Let me know what happens.

#2277 2 years ago
Quoted from raplaka75:

I finally had a chance to test the ground to the Q75 and no reaction at all

This means you have a play field problem. Check for power on both lugs of the coil. No power on both means you need to look for a bad fuse or a broken power wire. Power on one lug only means the coil is bad. Power on both lugs means you have bad trigger wire going from the coil to J19 on the CPU board or a cracked header pin on the CPU.

#2280 2 years ago
Quoted from raplaka75:

do I test it with AC or DC settings

Dc settings.

#2286 2 years ago
Quoted from raplaka75:

If I'm testing it out at the right spots.

Game on, DMM on DC volts, black lead stuck under the ground braid and do test with the red lead. You can check a working coil to make sure you are doing it correctly.

#2299 2 years ago
Quoted from raplaka75:

Ok I'm getting a reading on DC settings on the Kicker coils (Slingshots) & pop bumper

How much and on both lugs of the coil?

Quoted from raplaka75:pop bumper coil a 00.9

If I am reading you correctly this is bad, but I thought you were have troubles with the kickers.

#2302 2 years ago
Quoted from raplaka75:

I'm also gonna wait to receive the correct fuse for that specific holder

Before replacing the fuse disconnect 1J19 and check the ohms between ground and the metal tab of Q-69. Low ohms = a bad Q-69 transistor which will lock the coil on and burn the fuse.

#2306 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Before replacing the fuse disconnect 1J19 and check the ohms between ground and the metal tab of Q-69. Low ohms = a bad Q-69 transistor which will lock the coil on and burn the fuse.

It seems like you have a couple of problems at the same time. Repeat this test on Q-75

Quoted from raplaka75:

top of the Q69 and it's giving me a reading of O.L

This is fine.

#2308 2 years ago
Quoted from raplaka75:

I'm getting 09.8 on both Q75 &Q69

This doesn't sound correct. If you remove F-2 and F-4 from the power supply and turn on the game, what do you read for voltage on the F-2 fuse clip? Check for A/C and DC.

#2310 2 years ago
Quoted from raplaka75:

Ok I'm getting 30.2 in DC and 7.22 in AC

This looks like you have a bad bridge rectifier. You should be getting 37 volts dc and .75 ac. I think you have a shorted diode in the bridge. There are 2 bridges mounted against the metal back plane in the lower right corner of the back box. Remove the one with 2 red wires and a black and orange wire. Once removed you can retest it to know for sure but it looks as tho you need a new one, on a brighter note you were not getting full power to the coils and when fixed you will have a lot more power.

#2312 2 years ago
Quoted from Pauz21:

He tells me it needs a new power supply

Pm me as I have one.

#2314 2 years ago
Quoted from raplaka75:

Ok I'm trying to take the wires off but they are on there tight

They may have been soldered also. When you get the wires off you need to test the bridge rectifier to make sure its truly bad.

#2316 2 years ago

Those are soldered.

#2317 2 years ago

I would just replace it as they are 4 dollars and cut off the crimp on connectors and solder wires directly to the new bridge. Clean the metal ground plane and add new heat sink compound to the bridge and remount it.

#2319 2 years ago
Quoted from raplaka75:

I still got to cut off the wires and still test the voltages on the fuse holder correct?

This bridge rectifier is the source of the power for all of the low power coils in the game. If you remove this then do NOT turn on the power until its replaced. Also I see that your game doesn't have the fuses installed for the bridge rectifiers yet. This was a error on Williams part and needs to be done as its a fire hazard.

#2323 2 years ago
Quoted from raplaka75:

I had no idea I had to add fuses with the rectifiers.

You can get bridge rectifiers from PBL, Marcos, Bay area, Big Daddys and GPE.
I cut the red wire on the right for the top bridge and the blue wire on the right for the the bottom bridge @ 2 inches from the bridge. I then strip both ends of the wires and solder a fuse holder to the wires. Then I mount the fuse holder to the side of the back box with a screw. Then install a 8 amp SB fuse in each holder, no more fire hazard. Total cost 3.00.

#2337 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

It seems like you have a couple of problems at the same time.

This is the other problem
Disconnect 1J-19 to avoid melting the coil. Then power on the game and check 1J-18 pin 3 with your voltmeter with the connector still in place. What do you get?

#2339 2 years ago
Quoted from raplaka75:

Ok I'm getting 4.88 DC

That's good. Now measure voltage on U-45 pin 4 with the power on in attract mode.

#2341 2 years ago
Quoted from raplaka75:

It's reading 156.8 DC, if that's correct

Could this be milivolts?

#2343 2 years ago

If this is 156 milivolts than it's good. Then you will need to replace Q-70 (2n4401) and Q-71 (TIP102) and the diode (1n4007) on the coil.

#2344 2 years ago
Quoted from raplaka75:

I've now replaced the old bridge rectifier with the new rectifier board from Inkonito

Just my OCD here... check the solenoid power at the fuse for both AC and DC.

Quoted from raplaka75:Ok I'm getting 30.2 in DC and 7.22 in AC

I bet they will be a lot better ^^^^ then these numbers.

#2347 2 years ago
Quoted from raplaka75:

I didn't change the diode at the coil yet.

When you remove the diode, check the ohms on the coil. 23-800 coils should read @ 4.2 ohms.

#2349 2 years ago
Quoted from raplaka75:

That's with the game powered on

Ohms=not powered, volts=powered.

#2352 2 years ago
Quoted from raplaka75:

is that still compatible?

It's a higher voltage rating for the same price, use these on all coils and switches and power supplies.

#2355 2 years ago
Quoted from raplaka75:

I've tested the ohms on the coils and it reads 4.2

Sounds great do you know which way to install a diode?

#2357 2 years ago
Quoted from raplaka75:

Yes I can solder it back on the same way I took off

How do you know the last person installed it correctly?

#2359 2 years ago

You install a diode with the band facing the power wire. The power wire is shown on page 59 of the manual. It will be red or red/white wire.

#2361 2 years ago
Quoted from raplaka75:

and the readings are DC 38.6

This is almost 30% increase in power. Plug in J19, install a new fuse and turn on power and test it.

#2367 2 years ago
Quoted from raplaka75:

IT WORKS, IT WORKS, ITS WORKS!!!!!!!

#2378 2 years ago
Quoted from PARKER12345:

photo of the center pop bumper coil wiring for an F14?

Do you need a pic or is this good enough... Red/white power wire... Blue/yellow control wire... Band on diode faces toward the power wire.

Quoted from PARKER12345:upper right corner of the PC board.

Which board?

#2386 2 years ago
Quoted from SunMonkeyAZ:

Any tips on getting all three with this motor?

Find out if its a power issue first by removing the 3 lamps and retesting.

2 weeks later
#2426 2 years ago

This is AC powered so it doesn't matter which wire goes where.

#2428 2 years ago
Quoted from PokerJake:

I turned it on this morning and the right sling was fully extended

The coil was locked on for some reason.

Quoted from PokerJake:then retracted after 5 sec or so. Now neither sling and the pop bumper works.

The fuse under the play field burned out.

Quoted from PokerJake:Any suggestions?

Cut off one wire on the coil that was locked on then replace the fuse. Now you can troubleshoot the problem at hand.

#2437 2 years ago

Mount the head to the cabinet and pull the harness up thru the hole and we can start from there.

2 weeks later
#2461 2 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Power up, locked on again so I quickly powered off.

You need to check the switch input, a closed contact from a sling rubber being to tight or a shorted zener diode will cause this.

#2462 2 years ago
Quoted from SunMonkeyAZ:

Maybe 8-10 hrs of playtime between fuses. Just curious if there is something I should check as to the cause or if it's just one of those things?

There is 7 or 8 coils on this fuse, you need to ohm each one and compare it to the coil resistance chart. One of these coils is drawing to much current.

#2465 2 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

. Looks like the transistor is dead again.

Quoted from desertT1:

Are these frying instantly, or do I have a second before the cook like coils? These are TIP 102.

Yes they can, its always best to remove the control wire from the coil for testing until the problem is solved. Once this is done you can check the switch input with a voltmeter. Install the sling rubber and check the 2 switches for adjustment. Then check for voltage on pin 12 of U-45 in attract mode, should be 5 volts DC then push on the sling rubber and the voltage should drop to zero volts. Then check the voltage on pin 11, it should be 2 volts and higher. Lastly check pin 13 and it should be below .8 volts DC. Let me know what you find.

#2467 2 years ago
Quoted from cb23:

3 of the 4 displays are out

To repair this 225.00 + labor so I would buy a LED display for your game. These can be had for 200.00 and less and should last your lifetime.

Quoted from cb23:Can you ever find people selling them, or is ordering from something like pinballlife.com the best way to go?

People don't normally resell these items unless they are parting a machine. You can order from PBL, BDE, Bay area amusments and Marcos.
Congrats on your purchase you will love it.

#2470 2 years ago

Now you have 2 broke down, will this cause more drinking? This sounds like a power supply issue or a slam tilt. Make sure both slam tilts have a large enough gap so to not cause accidental tilts. If that's not it then put a voltmeter on the 5 volt line and have someone watch it while you play a mutiball. If it drops below 4.8 volts on the CPU you will have resets. Also flip you meter to AC while on the 5 volts test point and see how AC is on the DC signal, should be less than .2 of a volt. Did you ever replace your BR?

#2473 2 years ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

to pick up a Black Belt with a faulty flipper

The pins are a popping!!!

#2475 2 years ago

There is a slam tilt under the p/f around the flippers and on the coin door. The other tilts give a warning but a slam tilts kills the game just like a reset. The last pic is the coin reject coil, this will give you your quarter back if the game is turned off.

#2476 2 years ago

Maybe a broke pro.....

#2479 2 years ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

I'll check voltages tonight

I'm thinking you will have 2 PS to rebuild now.

#2480 2 years ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

I'll check voltages tonight

See page 60a of the manual (note 3).

#2486 2 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

The main transistor was bad, so I replaced that. Power up, locked on again so I quickly powered off. The pre-driver transistor tests fine

Quoted from desertT1:

Pin 13: .113mV

Quoted from desertT1:

The pre-driver transistor tests fine

One of two things can cause this,
#1 Q-74 is bad even tho is test good. I usually replace the predriver when I change the driver.
# 2 There is a broken trace between U-45 pin 13 and R-97.

#2488 2 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

I will unsolder the sling coil as well.

This is very important while testing, if your not using the game then unplug 1J19 to remove the control wire.

Quoted from desertT1:Maybe I will hook up a light instead to the driver and see if I can keep from killing the driver by testing with 5V.

Not needed, other tests can be done to confirm correct operation before plugging in 1J19.

#2492 2 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Can you clue me in on that?

Sure can, with 1J19 disconnected you need to start a game for the special solenoids. Then you can use a logic probe or a DMM and check the base leg of each special solenoid TIP transistors, they should be a low or zero volts. If you are reading voltage then the predriver is turned on or shorted and needs to be replaced. If your reading zero volts on the TIP base leg (transistor is off) then check resistance between ground and the metal tab or the corresponding pin on 1J19. There should be very high resistance if not the TIP is bad.

#2494 2 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Plugged in J119 with a very high pucker factor and nothing happened.

I didn't even get excited.

Quoted from desertT1:but just wanted to say that the major problem is solved.

Glad to hear it.
Now play ball.

1 week later
#2497 2 years ago
Quoted from Crile1:

Flashers 4 and 6 did not work.

Do the #4 and #6 flashers on the playfield work?

Quoted from Crile1:Now, none of the bulbs in back flash even in test.

Did the connector fall off the board after you installed it.

Quoted from Crile1:all but the flashers above pop bumper stay permanently on (330 ohm reistor issue, right?).

Correct, either remove the ground wire from each flasher board or remove both 330 ohm resistors from each flasher board.

Quoted from Crile1:also anyone want to take a crack at fixing the board if that is the problem?

Some 12 volt flasher bulbs are polarity sensitive and will not light when wired backward. So you should check to see if the center pin of the bulb socket has a positive DC voltage. If not the socket needs to be reversed on the board.

#2500 2 years ago
Quoted from Crile1:

When pulling 330 resistors, do I pull ALL of them?

You need to both on every flasher board under the p/f and in the back box.

Quoted from Crile1:

Afraid of disconnecting something I need.

Flasher boards are only for the flashers bulbs and the standard bulbs will still work with out the warming resistors.

#2502 2 years ago
Quoted from Crile1:

I stink at soldering and after 3 tries have failed.

Get some paste flux, it will help.

2 weeks later
#2533 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

But I noticed that two of the little square segments on the display are not on.
One in the top left and one in the bottom left.

Would this be the same segments on both displays #1 and #3?

#2538 2 years ago

To tell whether its the CPU or the display board, lock the displays on all 8s and check 1J1 pins 1-7 with your logic probe and see if they are all pulsing. If you find one that isn't pulsing then remove the connector and retest. If you still find one that is not pulsing then check src-7. If they all are pulsing then the display board needs testing.

#2539 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Looks like from the photo below someone has put the coils on upside down and spliced into the purple/yellow wire to only have to run one Purple/yellow to each coil. (Will that work?)

Yes as long as the splice is good.

Quoted from Arcade:Also are these coils supposed to have diodes or no diodes

Diodes, yes a must. Silver band towards the purple/yellow wire.

Quoted from Arcade:I already have to replace the tip and pre driver.

I have install a 1.5 amp fuse on each of these coils on my game to stop this from happening.

1 week later
#2544 2 years ago

Take a picture of the pop coil.

#2548 2 years ago

I would need a schematic for a RD board to be sure. Not sure what RD has changed from the original system 11A board.

#2551 2 years ago

Check U-19 pin 2 with a logic probe in attract mode, then start a game and see if it changes.

#2553 2 years ago

Yea I just got home from work and am getting ready to go to bed too. Using a logic probe is real easy and makes trouble shooting a breeze.

#2558 2 years ago

Have you read Terryb guide to logic probes?

#2567 2 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

I was incorrectly thinking Q69.

It is Q-69 on a Williams board. And its Q-10 on a Rottendog board.

You said earlier that the coil doesn't lock on until you start a game or diagnostics so this tells me that the FET Q-10 is fine. This is why I wanted you to get a logic probe.

#2573 2 years ago

Now that the mosfet is Q-10 and not Q-69 you will need to check a different driver chip.

#2574 2 years ago

What does U-11 pin 18 show in attract mode and in a game?

#2576 2 years ago

This should stay low until the skirt switch closes. Is this chip socketed?

#2579 2 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

but will not show up in switch edge test or switch levels test.

This maybe where the problem is starting from. Doesn't RD boards only fire a coil once if a switch is stuck closed.

#2583 2 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

You still out there?

I'm back, check pin 9 of U-24 in attract mode and in a game.

#2585 2 years ago

Check pin 2 of U-11 in attract mode and in a game.

#2587 2 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

U-11 pin2 is High in both modes

This is what it should be. So lets recap here, U-11 input pin 2 stays high in game mode but its output pin 18 switches from a low (correct signal) to a high. This leads me to believe that U-11 is bad. But remember I'm no RD expert.

#2589 2 years ago

I have never sent a board out to be repaired so I would not be much help deciding this.

#2590 2 years ago

It's good to have a few spares on hand for the future, but Q-10 is still working correctly.

4 weeks later
#2625 2 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

Your advise about U11 was correct.

I get lucky once in a while.

Quoted from StylesBitchly:

I have tried everything to get it working right from the spoon switch in game mode

Have you checked the height of the switch? If you don't have enough spacers on the switch stack you maybe adding pressure to the skirt pin causing it to drag. If too many spacers the skirt will move a bit before the spoon does causing it to be unresponsive. Spacers that come with a new switch is only to get you in the ballpark, you may need to add or remove as needed. They come in 1/8 1/16 and 1/32 of an inch. And you can also use card stock to make your own = to 1/64.

#2627 2 years ago
Quoted from uncle_jose:

is there a way I can confirm that the relay or board died?

Put game in coil test and stop at beacons, you should hear the relay clicking.

Quoted from uncle_jose:source of where to find a new snubber board/relay?

I just fix the one I have.

#2629 2 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

Most likely the old IDC connector.

A new board should have new connectors installed, but don't forget the molex connector on the harness in the cabinet.

#2634 2 years ago

This is the tool I got from Swinks. I like it and it will last a life time.

Quoted from StylesBitchly:

Pop bumper now working correctly.

Glad to hear it.

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#2639 2 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

I haven't yet nailed down the conditions as to when it happened.

You could have a bad diode or two, or as Puffdanny has suggested you may have a low 5 or 12 volt condition.

#2641 2 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

Pop bumper now working correctly.

Let me know if you want to have more pop in your pop.

#2644 2 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

Hell yes. It's lame!

You can use or make your own high current driver for this coil. Then run this coil on 50 volts instead of 25 volts. Not very hard to do.

#2645 2 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

alternately trigger the Left flipper and Left sling

Replace the diodes on both.

#2647 2 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

both sling switches?

Diodes on the coils.

#2649 2 years ago

No left flipper and left sling coil.

#2650 2 years ago

You can't drive a 50 volt coil directly from a TIP122 or a TIP102. You need to add a TIP36a in between the TIP102 and the coil.

#2663 2 years ago

Buzz one of the back box flasher is tied with one of the pf flasher circuit and need to changed together.

#2666 2 years ago

Then the Left lane change switch and the left sling score switch diodes.

#2667 2 years ago

Buzz the flashers 1c-8c that you want to change are not tied to the back box. But you can remove the ground wire from all the boards as it won't bother either type bulb if you want.

#2670 2 years ago

No problem. Now if you find a LED bulb that doesn't work, check that the center terminal of the socket has the orange (flashers 1-8)or red (flasher 9-10) wire.

#2672 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

It is the first diode D3 above the large flipper relay dome in the photo.

If you applied a ground to the anode side of D3 the relay will engage making the flippers work which then leads you to a CPU board problem.

#2673 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Any ideas appreciated.

You can start a game then check the voltage at U-50 pin 10.

#2674 2 years ago

Are you sure that both diverter coils are working?

#2676 2 years ago

You should check in coil test. It sounds like none of the SS are working. Do you have a logic probe?

#2677 2 years ago
Quoted from Buzz:

Thank you all so much. I really appreciate everyone's insight on this. You all are awesome thank you for the fast responses.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f-14-tomcat-beacon-diy-step-down-voltage-regulator#post-3044401

#2684 2 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

Changed both of these and still the random tilt

Last one I would change is the slam tilt diode on the coin door.

#2685 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Noticed that every time I press on it the relay above it clicks.

I think you found your problem, this is a good reason for not using sockets.

#2687 2 years ago

Only you can tell if this socket is any good still. Pull the chip and look at the socket leafs, have they been damaged from the corrosion. Was it just poorly installed and needs to be reflowed? These connections needs to be 100% reliable.

#2689 2 years ago

Wow that 12 inches in 24 hrs. Do you need a snorkel yet? I hope things work out for the best for you and yours.

#2692 2 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

OK GRUMP,
That one didn't change anything either, however, while flipping the left flipper alone again and again (in game mode), and no balls rolling around at all, I noticed that the phonetic alphabet inserts (Alpha, Bravo, Charlie, Delta, Echo...etc.) are one by one lighting up until they are all lit up and I get a KILL!
WTF??

Crap. It looks like the easy ideas are not working. Time to check them all now, that's a lot of fun. The alpha, bravo, Charlie sounds like a switch is set to tight. Vibration from the flipper is causing a switch to register.

#2695 2 years ago

Yagof switch#55 will light the alpha and bravo lights. Check this for being to close. That being said you should check diodes on switches 49 and 50.

#2698 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

1. No slingshot scoring or sling coil activity.

Quoted from Arcade:

2. No pop bumper.

These are most likely a problem with U-50 still. A trace on top of the board from pin 6 U-50 connects all 4 enables on U-45 together. I think this trace is not making contact with the pin of the socket which will kill all of the other 4 special solenoids. You can check this easy by checking ohms between pin 6 of U-50 and pin 6 of U-45. Should read 1 ohm or less.

Quoted from Arcade:One entire segment out on player 1 and player 3. Same segment on both, they are stacked one on top the other.
It is the 5th segment from the left on each.

You will need a logic probe for checking this, you lock the display on any number and test 1J1 connector for low pulses.

#2700 2 years ago

Correct, counter clockwise from the notch.

#2705 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Just way to busy helping feed the National Guard and helping others

Keep up the good fight.

#2716 2 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

I also discovered that the Yagov kickback solenoid fires whenever I get an Alpha, Bravo, Charlie, etc...

This is the key here. the game thinks switch #55 has closed. Then it fires the coil and lights the alpha light.

You hit the left flipper, the left EOS closes, the game thinks switch #55 closed and fires Q-8 and sometime tilts the game. Does this still happen if you just manually lift the left flipper to close the EOS switch.

#2718 2 years ago

Remove and insulate both wires on the left lane change switch. Then retest by using the left flipper button.

#2722 2 years ago

StylesBitchly
Did you rebuild this flipper, replace the EOS switch?

#2725 2 years ago

What I am wondering is there any way that the lane change switch can be Getting voltage from the EOS switch.

#2727 2 years ago

Stylesbitchly

How about a pic of the flipper assembly in both up and down positions.

#2731 2 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

I disassembled and reassembled the stack and it solved the problem. No more hot screws and no more free kills.

Do you have the insulation tubes in the stack spacers?

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/3A-7007-114

#2734 2 years ago
Quoted from SkaterVet:

Does anyone know how to configure this remote batter to work with F14?

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#2736 2 years ago

Do these switches have a pink crimp on connector? If so remove them and solder wire to the switch directly.

#2740 2 years ago

Play ball!!

#2748 2 years ago

Look at that score! Practice, practice, practice. : ))

9ea84e5ebc0dda6c053be86a48d2959d83ddf1eb (resized).jpg

#2757 2 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

I noticed that the font is different on your second photo of your score. How did you do that?

That is his new LED display!

#2763 2 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

lol..
Perhaps I should have said "Windows 10 Paint program" to be more clear.
Cheers!

You caught the BEE sleeping!
That won't happen again.

#2778 2 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

Any help for my question above?
Thanks

Do you mean that 2 balls may both go to the left eject. And other times 2 balls may go in the right eject. Does the first ball lock correctly in the lower right lock before they lock in the left- right eject. You may have a flaky diode or switch on any or all 3 lock switches.

#2792 2 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

It locks two ball in the same trough. Mostly on the left but sometimes on the right.

But does this happen after you lock the first ball?

#2801 2 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

I had two red diverter lights lit and after my ball drained, I launched next ball and it locked in the left center trough.

This ball should have went into right eject.

Quoted from StylesBitchly:

Then the next ball I launched also went into the left center trough (two balls there now).

This is correct, but you need to figure out why the first ball didn't go into the right eject.

Quoted from StylesBitchly:

there they sit for quite a while before machine kicks them out.

The game has lost where a ball is and does a ball search, kicks them out and you play a 2 ball multiball.

I think you need to check switch #21,#20 and #30.

#2806 2 years ago

I've fallen and I can't get up!

63926d43c8252fbc455574651fff19eaafbf0bcf (resized).jpg

#2812 2 years ago

Count me NOW!

xchicken-eggs-baby-chick-in-shell.jpg.pagespeed.ic.-kG0Nv3nci (resized).jpg

2 weeks later
#2833 2 years ago

When you spin a motor manually it becomes a generator which can be enough power for leds

#2842 2 years ago

That resistor board is scary.
As to your other question SS 5 and 6.

#2844 2 years ago

SS = Special Solenoid # 5 and 6 .

#2845 2 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

What is the proper solinoid for the diverters?

Oh did you mean the coil size and type? Both are the same, AL-26-1500-02

#2851 2 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Do I do this by basically putting the meter on ohms and making sure it's above 3.9 or so?

Yep.

#2853 2 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Do I do this by basically putting the meter on ohms and making sure it's above 3.9 or so? Thanks

If you get a funny reading then lift a leg of the diode and retest the coil. A bad diode can cause a burnt TIP too.

#2855 2 years ago
Quoted from scampcamp:

Is it pretty rare for it to have a bad diode?

No, diodes go bad at times. Most of the time they go open and don't cause any immediate damage. Sometimes they short out which will cause current to bypass the coil and damage the TIP driver and possibly other parts in the circuit.

#2857 2 years ago

Page 59 of the manual shows that blue/yellow and blue/violet wires go to the right flipper. Blue/grey goes to the left flipper. Page 29 shows the white /violet wires go to the left and right lane change switch. The green/ grey wire goes to the left lane change switch. All of these wires are direction sensitive and if connected incorrectly can cause damage to something. Would be better for you to start with pics of one flipper assembly and put numbers on the terminals. And I can tell you which wire goes to which terminal.

#2859 2 years ago

The green coil is for the upper flipper. The blue coil is correct for the lower coil. I only see one diode on the green coil right now, a second diode must be added before using it. So lets start with your last pic, this is the right flipper. The lug with no wire on it (bottom lug in the pic) gets the blue/yellow wire. The top lug gets the blue/purple wire. Now for the lane change switch (switch closest to the return spring) both green/red wires connect to the leaf nearest the led bulb. The last wire for the lane change switch is the white/purple and it connects to the leaf where the diode connects just underneath the white cable tie is. This should fix the right flipper. When you change the green coil out for the correct blue coil I will help you with that then.

1 week later
#2864 2 years ago
Quoted from tdiddy:

Can I just direct wire the white blue to the topper

If you do the beacons will be on as soon as you turn on the machine.

#2875 2 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

The switch makes contact and I can hear the relay clicking, but the coil is not firing.

Check for voltage at both lugs on the coil. Should be @ 62 volts DC.

#2883 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Both under playfield fuses are good and do not blow out.

All SS use a ground wire to activate the TIP on the CPU. These grounds are daisy chained from switch to switch. Did you remove the ground wires from the resistor boards to add LED flashers?

#2884 2 years ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

I shot a ball up the right side to start the lock and it went crazy as if i got an extra ball or something as it locked the first ball then let me lock the second ball at that point it ended my turn and went to ball 4 and would not kick the ball out to the shooter lane.I retrieved the balls and can start a game but it won't kick the ball out.

You need to check the trough switches in switch test.

Quoted from Puffdanny:P.s.it also reset my high scores the other day and the batteries are not old.

You need to check the battery holder to see if the contacts have come off.

#2886 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

I did not remove any ground wires.

Then you should check the inputs at the CPU board 1J18 pin 3, 4 and 5. Use a voltmeter check for 5 volts at pin 3, then press the right kicker rubber and the voltmeter should drop the zero volts. Then repeat for pin 4 = pop skirt. Pin 5 = left kicker.

#2889 2 years ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

When it goes through coil test nothing happens until 17

So none of the flashers are working? As for the coils not working check the fuse in the backbox just above the flipper power supply.

#2891 2 years ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

No flashers, I checked every fuse in the back box I could find on and off the boards.

Remove 1J8 and 1J10 from the Cpu and retest the coils.

#2897 2 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Done.
All spots on J18 behave as described. 4.8 volts then drop to zero when pressed.

Then check for power on both lugs of each coil that doesn't work. If power is good then briefly ground the metal tab of Q-69, Q-71 and Q-75 to see if the coil fires.

#2899 2 years ago
Quoted from Puffdanny:

Same thing except now it won't go through the switch test but I bet you already know that.also it doesn't do nothing on the switch edges test (ever) unless I hit a flipper or start button.

Replace J8 and J10.
Try reseating game ROMs as this is a weird problem. You can do a factory reset also.

#2901 2 years ago