(Topic ID: 66172)

F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.

By Hellfire

10 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

19 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #91 Insert color list Posted by jodini (10 years ago)

Post #98 Video - Add red flashers back to light show. Posted by Patofnaud (10 years ago)

Post #163 Technical Sheet - Matrix, etc. Posted by Snux (10 years ago)

Post #205 Speaker Panel - Early model= glue Posted by IceCreamMan (10 years ago)

Post #406 Pop bumper cap replacement. Posted by Fifty (9 years ago)

Post #466 Bulletproof - rectifier fuses Posted by Snux (9 years ago)

Post #477 Removing warming resistors Posted by Jumping-Box (9 years ago)

Post #513 Cliffy Flipper Frames Posted by Xenon75 (9 years ago)

Post #569 How to increase Bonus Posted by wayout440 (9 years ago)

Post #747 Pinball Cards Posted by agodfrey (9 years ago)


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263 posts in this topic match your search for posts by fifty. You are on page 1 of 2.
#270 9 years ago

I joined the club! My 1st pin!

There are a few things I want to work on right away;

1) Display issue. One of the numeric displays broke during transport.
2) There are a few places where screws are missing or seem out of place that I'd like to replace.
3) White beacon is yellow aged. Anyone try Retrobrite on these before?
4) Pop bumper isn't very sensitive so I'd like to investigate it.

I can't wait to start tinkering on this game!

F-14.jpgF-14.jpg
#277 9 years ago

Hi guys, hoping you can help me out. I wasn't sure where to put this so I'm just adding it into the club area. I'm still a rookie in the forums and I find it a bit hard finding my way still.

I've been going over my F-14. Things look good, but there are a few tiny bits I'd like to fix before my OCD overtakes me. I need some hardware. I wasn't sure how to measure these without one of those caliper micrometer gauges. I need to know the sizes for the following as they are missing on my pin;

missingscrews.pngmissingscrews.png

#280 9 years ago

Thanks LongJohns. Any idea what the length of the #6 screw is on the shooter lane? I can't use a screw size gauge as I don't have another screw for comparison in this area. It looks like a torx screw. Is it?

For the jet bumper, I can get the length from the remaining screw and look at the #4's.

The slingshot needs the nylon acorn nut. #6-32 you say? Thanks. I'll hit Home Depot tonight and see what they have.

================================================================

One last question for everyone in this thread; Are the PF plastics supposed to move? For example, the plastics covering my slingshots move. Not a lot, but I didn't expect them to move at all. What is the norm?

#283 9 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

They should be snug but shouldnt move. You dont want them overly tight though as you want a little give in case of ball contact.

That's what I thought. Mind are overly loose. I'll be tightening them up.

Quoted from Industen:

Another update. Another toy
» YouTube video

Kewl! What did you use to make it spin?

#289 9 years ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

New to the club and to the pinball side of the hobby. Just got a project game from Diz (great guy!) this past weekend. There are some really great looking games in this thread and these pictures really give me something to strive for.
Here is what I'm starting with. Solid game overall, but non-working. My plan is to get a nice, clean, working, player's game. I've already dove right in and am very excited to be learning the ropes with the pins.
Thanks for posting all these great pics and ideas.

Looks pretty good. The mylar is still stuck to the playfield which means the arrowheads haven't come loose or warped on you. I see some broken plastics, but other than that you look to be in good shape.

How is your display? Are all four working? Let me know because I'm looking for one.

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#292 9 years ago
Quoted from LongJohns:

FiftyQuid - I would have to measure mine - now that I think about it, it could be a long #4 on the shooter lane. I will check tonight is I remember.

Thank you. I would really appreciate it.

#294 9 years ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

Thanks. I don't plan on attempting to remove the Mylar, just going to leave it and clean up the playfield with Novus once I (hopefully) get the game working.
Not sure about the displays since I haven't gotten it powered up yet. They look like they were replaced at some point, though. I'm doing a cap kit on the power supply and just finished the remote battery mod on the mpu.

I'm the same. I'm leaving the mylar on the playfield for now. I have plans to polish and that's it. Mylar removal will come next year once I'm a bit more comfortable with game. I'm just replacing rubbers, bulbs, and cleaning up all the mech. dust. Man, that crap gets everywhere.

#297 9 years ago
Quoted from LongJohns:

Sorry for not getting back sooner, but the one on the shooter lane is 1/2" long.
Cheers,

Just to clarify, it is a #6-32 x 1/2"? Is it a screw or bolt?

#299 9 years ago
Quoted from LongJohns:

#6 screw (the 32 would only apply if it was a bolt as that is the thread pitch).

Thank you sir! I'm off to Lowe's.

#306 9 years ago

I thought a few of you might be interested in this. My white beacon was pretty dirty. I guess all the years of smoke and florescent lighting took their toll on it. Like most of the white beacons out there mine was yellowed. So being the internet savvy guy I am I took a look on YouTube for a solution. I ended up finding "Salon Care 40" and decided to give this a try.

Here are the before and after photos. I think you can figure out which is the before and which is the after. This is after one treatment with Salon Care 40 and sitting in the bright sun for about 8 hours. I tried a second treatment, but I didn't find it helped any further. The difference was definitely noticeable, but less impressive than I had hoped. High expectations I guess.

sidebyside.pngsidebyside.png

Please ignore the Spider-man colouring book. It was the only white paper I could find for contrast.

#308 9 years ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

Looks good. You have some scratches on the top of your domes too?
I did the same thing this weekend, too. I used Hydrogen Peroxide and OxyClean, though. Cleaned up the other domes and polished the reflectors also Too bad I couldn't do much with the gouges on the top of the domes.

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Yep. I guess it's from people slamming the backbox up without checking the clearance.

Hydrogen Peroxide is usually rated around 3%. This Salon Care 40 stuff is about 12% hydrogen peroxide. If you want to try it it's about 9 bucks for a 32oz. bottle.

#310 9 years ago

You guys would laugh at my high scores. I blame the jet bumper for not being sensitive enough for my liking.

#312 9 years ago

That was just my lame excuse for sucking.

#316 9 years ago

Does anyone know how many blue star posts are on an F-14 PF? I'm placing an order through pinballlife and I figure I'll order the posts at the same time (to justify shipping costs to Canada).

Has anyone done a full audit of the star posts on F-14?

How many blue?
How many red mini posts?
How many narrow posts?
Blah, blah, blah… ?

#319 9 years ago

Thanks to you both!

Quoted from StrangelovePhD:

I thought I would come to you F14 guys to get some input. I know the inserts on F14 are notorious for raising and I have the same problem on BSD. How do you guys deal with inserts that have raised and chipped when there are no replacements? Do you sand their face's down until their are flat and put on new decals?

I saw a thread a few weeks ago about a guy that flattened them using a heatgun, and some pieces of metal with a clamp. The idea was to remove the insert, place it inbetween the metal and then heat the metal with the heatgun while tightening up the clamp. I wish I could find that damn thread. The results were quite good.

I'm thinking it was a high speed restoration, but I can't find it!

#320 9 years ago

[EDIT] Double post.

Post edited by FiftyQuid: double post

#327 9 years ago
Quoted from SPeD66:

Finally got around to filming a decent round. 98% of my points came on ball one. Skip to 4:30 if you want to see the meat of the game. I want to check the pitch of my pin as I know it could/should be faster, but left my digital level at a friends house when I delivered a game to him recently. Pretty sure my F-14 has at least a 6 degree pitch but I want to take it to 7. (Will elevate the pitch when I get my level back.) Also have a couple of switches that need tweaking. Anyway, here's my gameplay for what it's worth.
» YouTube video

I'm not able to bank the ball into the launch with the right flipper like you can in this video. I'm aiming at the same spot, but the white rescue target on my machine sticks out further. So I either clip the right side of the rescue target or just slide past it but the angle is then wrong. I didn't realise the target was so out of place. It looks fine, but maybe it needs to be pushed towards the middle a bit?

#331 9 years ago

Thanks for the pics guys. My right target isn't that far over. It seems both of mine are bent slightly over to the right. I'll have to take a closer look. It's a little to dark in the room to check under the PF.

#333 9 years ago
Quoted from Geocab:

Your cover definitely looks whiter than mine. I didn't read up on the Salon Care 40 stuff and used regular hydrogen peroxide. Made a thread awhile back.
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/took-some-yellow-out-of-my-f-14-clear-beacon

I was into the retrogaming (still am) scene. The same stuff is used to get old Nintendo's and Famicom's back to their original white.

#336 9 years ago
Quoted from SPeD66:

Finally got around to filming a decent round. 98% of my points came on ball one. Skip to 4:30 if you want to see the meat of the game. I want to check the pitch of my pin as I know it could/should be faster, but left my digital level at a friends house when I delivered a game to him recently. Pretty sure my F-14 has at least a 6 degree pitch but I want to take it to 7. (Will elevate the pitch when I get my level back.) Also have a couple of switches that need tweaking. Anyway, here's my gameplay for what it's worth.
» YouTube video

SPeD66 are you hitting the no. 5 target here to bank the Launch shot? I am by no means a pinball wizard, but I'd like to consider myself above novice. I repeatedly attempted this shot tonight. Out of 30 attempts I made it up the Launch once.

I think I'm hitting the ricochet area you are, but when the ball bounces off the no. 5 target and heads over to the Launch ramp it just hits the far right side wall and then bounces off the back of the upper right flipper. The one shot where the ball made it all the way didn't have any of the velocity that your shots having off the bounce. Mine just trickled up the Launch and barely landed in the up kicker. Any tips for a above novice player? Please don't say practise. I just want to make this shot.

#338 9 years ago

Ah... yes. Target foam. I had forgotten all about that. My foam is practically non-existent. Glad you mentioned it because I was racking my brain out and getting frustrated.

Thank you for the link(s), but I've actually already ordered some replacement foam. My order from Pinball Life should be arriving this week.

Once I have the foam installed I'll report back.

#340 9 years ago
Quoted from 0geist0:

They sell basicly the same foam a Home Depot by the roll

Home Depot up here in Canada is limited. I've lucked out a few times, but many times I strike out.

I needed to order some stuff from Pinball Life so I added the foam when I did. I'm paying $40 for shipping so I wanted to get as much into the box as I could.

#342 9 years ago

Does anyone have any cool jet bumper mods? I've seen the multi-led bumper mod, but I was wondering if there were any other ideas out there. I like the old 70's style pins that had the stars on the bumper caps. Like this;

Flicker_Cap_Set.jpgFlicker_Cap_Set.jpg

I was thinking of having a decal made up for it. Maybe a hammer and sicle or the Mig star;

630px-URSS-Russian_aviation_red_star.svg.png630px-URSS-Russian_aviation_red_star.svg.png

#357 9 years ago

Close? It looks like it's putting the moves on it. I'm surprised it hasn't shorted out already.

#360 9 years ago

I have a question for all the F-14 owners. Occasionally a second ball will launch out of one of the ball locks, essentially creating a 2 ball multiball. This happens very rarely, but often enough that I thought I would bring it up. Is this part of the gameplay or is it a malfunction?

Unfortunately it happens so rarely that I don't have many details. I don't know which of the ball locks it fires out of or what is triggering it. When it finally happens I'm usually in the middle of the game and I'm focused on the main ball and don't see the 2nd fire onto the PF.

Anyone else?

#364 9 years ago

How do I take all the balls out? [EDIT] - Figured it out

FYI...My player 4 display is broken. I'm also a newbie when it comes to putting a pinball machine into any test mode. It took 10 minutes of fiddling around with the machine before I figured out how to reset it to factory default.

[EDIT] I fiddled with this some more. I managed to get the lamp tests going, but my kids were asleep so I didn't go any further. I will try this again tomorrow.

I should have a new PinScore early next week. Maybe this will help me figure out the menu for tests?

So I take it this is not normal? I'd say out of 50 games this has happened maybe 3 times.

#367 9 years ago
Quoted from Jumping-Box:

This is a post or rail problem, because there is no 2-ball mutliball. When a ball is launched from the center locks, sometimes the rail pops up and causes the incoming ball to land onto the playfield. This is due to a loose or broken post that holds down the center rails. Make sure those rails are nice and snug, and that should fix your problem. Also check if the rails are sitting on top of the ball lock, and not in the ball lock.

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I'm trying to understand what you are saying so bear with me. The center rails are both secure. The posts are snug and neither rail moves. I don't see how the rails could sit in the ball lock, but mine are not. Please excuse the mess of this area as I have not shopped it yet. Broken jet bumper cap, non-existant foam on targets and the homemade left/right roll under gates are all gifts from a previous owners. Please notice the piece of metal on the top left launch which has been bent upwards. Why? I have no idea.

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Quoted from zippydapinhead:

I had this problem with mine, ended up being a bad coil diode. When the coil fired, it was sending voltage upstream to the ball release coils and actually activating them. Look for a bad or de-soldered diode.

This is a little deeper than my expertise right now. I'm familiar with coil diodes, but I'm still getting familiar with this pin. I'll hopefully have my new PinScore this week and then I'll try what vid1900 suggests. If all checks out with the switch test I'll get into diodes.

#368 9 years ago

Since I'm posting issues… I shopped this area tonight. After comparing photos with others on the internet there are a few clear problems here;

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1) Broken plastic
2) There are two many screws.
3) The screws are all incorrect. The screw furthest to the left is seized in the post.
4) There should only be one full size post on each end of the plastic. The middle one I have no idea what it's supposed to be. Full post? Half post?

I want to get this pin back into original factory default condition. If you have pictures of this area could you please post them to help me out? I know many of you have torn down playfields. Thank you!

#372 9 years ago
Quoted from Gov:

My dad's machine has the two ball multiball problem on occasion as well. It isn't consistent, but does happen from time to time. It seems to happen more often during multiplayer games. I will check out the diodes.

Yes, this is what my pin is doing. Sounds more and more like a diode issue.

Quoted from mbott1701:

I have a full sized post, but it is not screwed into the plastics. I was just working in that area last night, so here are a couple pics of my set up...

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Thank you for the photos. This is perfect. So it's just two standard bumper posts. The F-14 manual lists them as 02-4008 posts. I see them on BayArea here; http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=baa&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=MP-02-4008

I'll try to get them through my local supplier. Worst case I could dremel the top of the screw head off the seized bumper post and use that one in the middle.

Now I just have to find a replacement plastic.

#374 9 years ago

This is an easy thing to check so I'll take a look at it tonight. I think it may be the angle of the photo, but we'll see. If there is a gap, how the heck am I supposed to slide it to the left? The post holding it in place already looks like it's as far over as possible.

#377 9 years ago

Turns out there was a significant gap between the rail and the ball lock. I loosened the screw and managed to move it down and left quite a bit. Enough that I don't think it will be a problem, if that was the problem. Unfortunately I didn't test it yet as I was so disgusted with the mess in this area that I started tearing it down. All 3 rails came out, a set of clear plastics, both ball locks, and the jet bumper.

I really hope my parts come in this week.

Quoted from LongJohns:

I had the same problem, mine had to do with the shooter lane switch - best to go into the switch test and verify the switches (use a ball to activate them).

Will do once re-assembled.

Quoted from wayout440:

One thing I learned from Tomcat is the switches need to work consistently and accurately - every time & all the time. The switches monitor locations of all the balls - shooter lane, trough switches and locks are extremely important. If one of those is even the slightest bit flaky, this game program will lose track of the balls and weird things begin to happen. Making certain that your Tomcat passes the switch test and switch edge test repeatedly is important for troubleshooting these kinds of errors.

Thanks. Switch test it is. It's been driven into my head enough.

#406 9 years ago

FYI, for anyone ordering a replacement pop bumper cap, either the F-14 manual is wrong, or Marco has the part number listed incorrectly. According to the manual, the pop bumper cap p/n is;

03-7444-9

If you punch this number into the Marco search you get an opaque red pop bumper cap;
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7444-9

The proper p/n on Marco is;
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8254-9

I would have to guess the manual is correct and that Marco is wrong, but who knows? Either way, I'm stuck with a pop bumper cap I'll never use because I had a 3rd party order it for me that was not familiar with F-14.

BTW, PinballLife has the proper transparent cap as well;
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=327

They list the part number for the transparent cap as 03-8254-9 as well. Odd.

F-14 originally came with a transparent bumper cap right? I wonder why it's listed incorrectly in the F-14 manual from ipdb.org?

Lesson learned for me, I'll be ordering my own parts from now on.

#410 9 years ago

[EDIT] Found my answer back a few posts. Thank you.

#421 9 years ago

Me again, this time I'm replacing some plunger parts. I took the plunger apart. Now I'm putting it back together. There is a plunger sleeve that came with the new parts. Mine didn't have one. How is this installed?

#423 9 years ago
Quoted from Wolfmarsh:

It gets inserted from the inside. The lip will be inside the game.

That made the most sense, but I wanted to double-check. Thank you!

#425 9 years ago

That looks pretty badass! I have to get one of those LED bumper caps. PinballLife is sold out right now.

Is that installed on the under side of the cap? I really like the idea. Transparent print looks good and subtle. I think I like the look of it better with the center light/LED unlit. The middle bulb sort of wrecks it. Maybe the lighting could be softened?

All in all, I think it looks very good. Nice work!

#427 9 years ago

Hi guys, I've started shopping the upper PF. I'm replacing my flippers due to the build up of crud on them. They won't come clean. Anyway, I went to change the upper left flipper and noticed it has a clear piece of plastic on top of it. Is this normal? Seems weird to me. I don't know what purpose it would serve.

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#431 9 years ago

Thanks guys. Asthetically it looks like crap, even though I didn't notice it until now. Odd thing is, it doesn't have the Williams logo on it like the other 3 flippers. I'll remove it and toss the plastic into my parts bin.

#432 9 years ago

*Double post*

Same flipper. I've removed it. There was a washer installed under it. This is the only flipper on the PF that had a washer under it. Are they supposed to have washers under them, or is this flipper the anomaly again?

#434 9 years ago

103700

#436 9 years ago

Maybe. I haven't noticed anything else out of the ordinary.

#440 9 years ago

Sick! That looks sweet! I cannot wait until I'm done shopping my F-14 so I can get to this fun stuff! How did you mount the jets? Where did you buy those jets from? They look very clean. Do the wings open on the F-14?

I'm hoping to buy an F-14 and hook it up to a motor. I want the wings to be open during normal play. When the Release light is triggered I want the wings to close. Basically I want closed wings as long as the beacons are spinning.

#442 9 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Sounds to me like you've got a lot of work ahead of you

I'm almost there. The entire PF is cleaned and waxed now. I just have to reassemble everything. I'm wondering if I should wait and place an order for a few things first though. I want to make a lighting modification to the Yagov Kicker which requires swapping out some wiring under the black plastic. Since I'm doing that, I'm wondering if I should do the wiring to put back the two original flashers that were service recalled at the same time.

If I wait, then I can't reassemble anything as the black plastic (by the divertor) pretty much holds everything together. One thing leads to another in the world of pinball.

#444 9 years ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

Thanks, Fifty. I used 16 gauge, black hobby wire. Attached one end to the jet's stand mounting hole, then the other end I bent and put around the screw holding the plastics.

Do you have a pic of this?

#446 9 years ago

Looks pretty clean. Nice install.

Mind sharing your eBay link? I wouldn't mind knowing which models you purchased as these are more to my liking.

#448 9 years ago

Thank you!

Guys, F-14 has a ton of stand up target switches. The target faces on some of mine are warped. The one side sticks out further than the other. Do any of you have a trick to get them flat again?

1 week later
#452 9 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

Thank you!
Guys, F-14 has a ton of stand up target switches. The target faces on some of mine are warped. The one side sticks out further than the other. Do any of you have a trick to get them flat again?

No suggestions?

Okay, how about this one... Anyone have a ball eject 'Cliffy' protector on their F-14?

#454 9 years ago

Mylar... Nice one. I wouldn't have though of that.

Blow dryer huh? I didn't think enough heat would be produced but I'll give it a try. Thanks!

#456 9 years ago

I have completed shopping the top, and some of the bottom, of the playfield. I could not believe the amount of dirt, wood, and solder flux crap all over it. It is sparkling now. It is soooooo rewarding putting everything back together (and not having any spare parts leftover) and seeing the GI light up. I replaced #44 bulbs in places I didn't know there were #44 bulbs! It looks awesome! Then I hit the start button and played a game. The playfield was freshly waxed. Holy shit the ball was moving! It was crazy! The ball was moving fast! I was making shots that I would not have dreamt possible before, getting crazy bounces, and extra distance on weak shots. Man it was exhilarating! I've had this pin for about 2 months now. My scores have been garbage. At first I wasn't even hitting the replay at the factory settings of 900,000. Tonight I still didn't make the leaderboard, but I had my best game! 3,048,000. So close! It would have been awesome putting up my initials on the new PinScore!

During one game I had that two ball multiball thing happen on me again. I mentioned it back a few posts. The second ball fired out of the ball lock on the right. I had not hit the release, it just fired prematurely. I think it fired as I spelled T-O-M-C-A-T the second time.

For reference, I reset the pin to factory settings back in May.

#459 9 years ago
Quoted from Snux:

Great you have the machine working again
For the mystery ball kickout, try putting the machine in switch test and thumping quite hard on the playfield a couple of times and see if you get any switch action. The right hand eject will kick a ball out if the switch at the entry of the lower habitrail gets activated - it does that to avoid the possibility of 2 balls getting into the lock which it might then have problems kicking out.

Sorry, but what is the "lower habitrail"?

I have my defective PinScore installed so I'm able to put the pin in switch test mode now. I tried this very quickly last night, but there seem to be a few different switch test modes. I'm still getting familiar with going through the menus. Is there a specific switch test I should be in?

#461 9 years ago
Quoted from Snux:

It's the long wire ramp that runs right across the playfield to the lock on the right hand side from the bottom of the plastic ramp on the left of the playfield. Some folks call them habitrails although thinking about it I'm not sure why they're called that. Just into that wire ramp is a switch that closes to tell the machine that a ball is on the way to the far right lock. If that's closing when it shouldn't a ball kickout could happen.
The switch test you want is the "switch edge" test. When in that mode, you can activate all the switches on the playfield by hand and you should see them appear on the display if they are working properly. So in switch edge, a thump in the centre of the playfield in theory should not activate any switch, but if one is loose or badly adjusted a thump usually triggers it.
(and thanks for the PM!)

Habitrail. I was just calling it the lower wire guide. I learned something new.

Switch 'edge' test it is. I will check this out tonight. This makes sense though. When the two ball multiball started I had one ball in the right lock. The second ball I had just plunged. I remember the second ball starting to head down the second (or middle) habitrail to the center lock. I think it was just about to drop when the ball in the right lock fired out. Then the second ball fired out of the center lock. It happens pretty fast when it happens. It's difficult to remember. I need to try to reproduce it.

#462 9 years ago

@Nate - That wasn't meant to be a burn. I was being serious. I wouldn't have thought of it.

Okay, switch edge tests pass. I manually pressed each switch a few times and they all registered. Then I pounded on the PF a few times and nothing registered. Finally I gave the pin a good push tilt shove and still nothing.

When I originally posted this issue there were two other possible solutions. One was the habitrail not touching the center ball lock properly and the ball falling out. I have checked this and adjusted it. There is no possibility of it happening, besides it seems the culprit is the right lock, not the center.

The other was a diode issue I believe. This is a little deeper than my skill set right now. I think I need to play a few games without the glass and try to duplicate the issue to narrow down what exactly is happening.

[EDIT] I didn't do the switch test with actual balls. Will redo all tests now…
[EDIT2] Passed.

Hmmm… Now what?

#465 9 years ago

I've followed Vid's in the past for many things I'm doing, but not for bulletproofing. I didn't think Sys11's really needed any board bulletproofing. I've read about older Bally (Xenon) and Gottlieb needing work, but nothing specific for F-14 or even High Speed.

Added the 'sticker mod' to the lock/landing clear piece of plexi-glass tonight. I can't decide if I like it or not. I would say I'm 50/50 as of right now. Don't get me wrong, this is a quality sticker that is very much worth the price. The colours match up to the PF very very well. The overall look of the sticker I would say is a little more modern. I am not sure if it is a seamless blend, at less not to me (yet). Personally I was never a fan of the "L" shaped cover over the black area to begin with. I'm not really sure why Williams ever bothered covering it.

f-14sticker.jpgf-14sticker.jpg
^^^ This is only an example, this is not my pin.

Has anyone ever thought of painting it another colour? Red perhaps?

#468 9 years ago
Quoted from Snux:

Vids guide to bullet-proofing Sys3-7 has some useful advice in for Sys11. Things still wear out, so it's a good read. For Sys11 the particular one to take care of is adding the 2 missing fuses to protect against rectifier failure. Direct link to that is here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-bulletproofing-williams-system-6/page/2#post-945742

This is great to know. Thanks guys, I had no idea. I honestly haven't looked under the hood much except to look under the playfield. Having two kids, and this being my first machine, I want to protect both. Adding this to my life of "to do's".

#472 9 years ago

I just followed the instructions to install it. It basically goes on like a water slide decal. Wet the plastic, throw the sticker on top, slide it around into position, squeegee out the water with a credit card, allow to dry. Viola! Then trim after it is dry. I find the sticker blocks my view of the "Mach 3" bulb due to the angle. I also don't like how "Mach 3" is where the screw hole is and interrupts the lettering. I think it was short sighted of the designer not to align the "Mach" and "Landing" lettering to the right instead of the left. I could have just not cut out the hole, but I cut it out from the back and didn't realise it until I went to install the black post.

Back to my two ball multiball misfiring… I had to play quite a few games before it happened. It happens on the 2nd multiball. Ball 1 is in the right lock. Ball 2 is plunged and drops into the center lock (right side). It ejects and hits the T in T-O-M-C-A-T to complete the word and all the flashers go off to alert the player that she/he can lock another ball. This is when Ball 1 launches prematurely.

I "think" this is what is happening. Again it's hard to catch and it happens infrequently and I am not able to replicate it manually with my fingers or using the balls. It's an odd one. I'm going to try and see how many games inbetween instances it actually happens. Unfortunately I don't set off a 2nd multiball often so my results may be skewed.

#473 9 years ago

Played another 10 games tonight. No misfire. The mystery deepens…

In other news. I took the two KILL stand up targets out. The left was shifting left every time the ball hit it. Pulled it out with the intention of using vice grips to crimp down the rivet. I look closer and I see the point of a nail sticking out of it. I peel back the tape and find an ancient nail. I guess the rivet broke sometime in the past and the repairman decided to quick fix it with a nail and electrical tape. I removed the nail and put in a proper rivet.

I love (and hate) finding things like this. I think it's cool to find a piece of history like this. Some point in the past someone worked on this exact same target and this was the fix she/he decided on to get the game running again.

1 week later
#478 9 years ago

Has anyone added mirror blades to their F-14? If so, I would like to see it. Thank you.

#482 9 years ago

So if I buy a set of blades from Cointaker I can transfer them onto another Williams/Bally game down the road right? Sys11 isn't a specific cut or anything?

#484 9 years ago
Quoted from volkdrive:

I put some on my Grand Lizard, you have to cut a piece out that's under the PF, if you want to move them to a different game later WPC etc, it would be underneath and not noticeable...

Would you mind sharing a photo of how it looks?

#486 9 years ago

Awesome! Thanks for the photos. I think it looks pretty good! It's not Fish Tales, or WPT, but I still think it adds to the look and is worth the price. Especially if you can move them out and into another machine later.

Thanks again!

#490 9 years ago

F-14 is like a drug. Well, pinball is the drug, but F-14 is like your re-up.

#498 9 years ago

Does anyone else have a bitch of a time getting the landings during multiball? I've had the game for 6 months, and I don't consider myself a novice, but I have yet to put my name on the high scores. I have failed…

#500 9 years ago

Yeah, I'm still having problems with that banked shot off the 5. Maybe 1 out of 10 I hit it properly. That use to be 1 out of 20 or 30 before I waxed the playfield. My "5" target is warped so it doesn't deflect properly. I'm waiting to place an order for a few new ones.

#503 9 years ago
Quoted from Gov:

Strong flippers make a difference as well.

This is on my larger "to do" list. I just haven't gotten there yet.

Lowering the high score defaults sounds like a great idea.

While I have everyone talking, what do you guys think I should do to fix this;

20140730_152744.jpg20140730_152744.jpg

After 27 years of pinballs hitting it the metal guide that leads to the flipper has been flattened. There is actually a bit of a dip and then just before the flipper bat you can see the corner is flattened. I've actually gotten a ball stuck between the post side of the flipper and the bracket. Nothing a tiny nudge didn't fix, but this piece of metal is affecting gameplay as it slows the ball sometimes when it comes down the inner lane. Not always, but sometimes.

Any ideas to fix this? I can't hammer it flat.

#506 9 years ago

Sourcing the sheet metal (proper thickness) and getting it cut are the two main blocking factors for me. Then I have to ensure it's polished sheet metal as well.

It's not a game breaker, so I'll file this in my back pocket as something I'm looking for casually, not hardcore.

Thanks.

#509 9 years ago

Yeah, mine is the original mylar as well. I would like to remove it and fix some of the inserts. I'm not going to attempt this until I'm a year or two in.

I tried adjusting the high score defaults this evening. I managed to lower all of them, but then I wasn't sure what to do. I closed the coin door, but the game didn't go into any sort of playable mode. So then I flipped the power switch on the belly, but this lost all the values I had put in. How do I save the new lower high scores?

#512 9 years ago
Quoted from Snux:

I think once the value is where you want it, you press the start button on the front of the machine to save it. To get out of the menu, just run all the way up to adjustment 70, once you go over that it'll quit back to attract mode

The start button allows you to move the value up and down depending on if you have the coin door button in auto or manual mode. I figured that out by myself. I'll try running all the way up to adjustment 70 tonight and see if that does the trick.

Quoted from Pinball_Nate:

FiftyQuid, you could try raising that metal plate slightly - put taller spacers on the bottom and shorten the spacers beneath the slingshot plastic - or just put a washer beneath the metal plate - that just might move it enough to lessen the problem with where the ball strikes it........

I don't understand how this would help. Maybe I'm not understanding what you are saying.

#514 9 years ago

Thanks for the link! Email sent for pricing.

#515 9 years ago
Quoted from Snux:

I think once the value is where you want it, you press the start button on the front of the machine to save it. To get out of the menu, just run all the way up to adjustment 70, once you go over that it'll quit back to attract mode

This didn't work. Well, it kinda did. Now when I look at the values in the menu it shows the high scores I inputted, but when I close the coin door or turn on/off the machine it still shows the defaults on the display? What the?

It's odd, because I tried turning off high scores using the same method and was able to turn them off.

#517 9 years ago
Quoted from Snux:

I think that after you change the values, you then need to reset the high scores, that's a button inside the door from memory

Duh. Right that makes sense. Let me try it…

Yep! Worked! Thank you!

#518 9 years ago

Where is all the F-14 love?

I reverse modded the service bulletin tonight and added back in the two missing red flashers. Simple to do as long as you use some patience. Took me about an hour. I love the look of it. Playing in the dark is killer on the eyes, but now it's even worse/better. This might very well be the only Williams game you need to wear sunglasses to play.

20140804_195056.jpg20140804_195056.jpg

#522 9 years ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

Where did you get that decal that goes over the ball diverters?

Yep, eBay. Very high quality decal. It's a water soluble decal. You need to use soapy water to apply and move it around then squeegee out the water with a credit card. I was in contact with the eBay seller and artist for this and asked him if he ever thought about designing side or rear decals for F-14. He had not, but is now considering it. However, he is currently working on similar decals for the clear plastics on the right (over the plunger lane.)

Quoted from mbott1701:

Good job with the flashers, Fifty! They really do enhance the light show.

Thank you! For my first mod, this is a good one. I would recommend this mod to anyone that has modding in their blood and is itching to do something with their F-14 pin. It was a lot of fun.

#523 9 years ago

So I triggered a two-ball multiball last night. I am pretty sure I yelled out "shit" because I was on a good run and this meant my score was bogus with two balls now rolling around on the PF.

The first two-ball multiball triggered with ball one locked. Ball two had just rolled past the switch in the second habitrail when I heard "Fire!" and ball one launched out of the lock.

I am starting to think one of the switched located in the habitrail is sticking. I am leaning to the defective one being in the lowest habitrail.

#527 9 years ago

Woot! Finally put up a decent high score! 4,099,650!!! I knocked out 3,000,000 points on Ball 1 alone! Me and the pin were in complete sync. What an awesome feeling! Added my score to the leaderboard, and I will add a photo later! Ha!

#530 9 years ago
Quoted from NightTrain:

Anyone have any NOS, repro, or nice used F14 slingshot plastics they'd be willing to part with? I suppose I only really need the left, but would prefer a pair. Maybe they're still for sale somewhere but I couldn't find them.
Thanks!

Did you try contacting this guy?
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f-14-machine-parted-out

I know the banana plastic is gone, but I didn't think the slings were yet.

#536 9 years ago

I had a couple more instances of the 2 ball multiball last night. I really think it is the switch in the lower habitrail misbehaving.

When I send the ball to the upkicker the ball gets shot upwards towards the divertor. Sometimes the upkicker hits the ball perfectly and it rolls quickly over to the divertor. Sometimes the upkicker hits the ball less that perfectly resulting in the ball rolling more slowly towards the divertor. When the upkicker really connects I notice the switch trigger in the lower habit moves. I'm thinking this is my issue. It shouldn't move unless something comes in contact with it. This switch is the only thing that sets off the kicker in the right side lock.

I am going to try replacing all 3 habitrail switches and see if this corrects the problem.

#537 9 years ago

(mods please delete)

#541 9 years ago

Woohoo!!! Just broke my high score! 4,688,910! I set off multiball, got 1 landing. Then I got the extra ball, then I set off multiball again, no landings. Then I had the extra ball lit, and 1 ball locked with the lock lite for the second ball and I drained!!! F-E-C-K!!!

Man, I'm drained! No pun intended!

Man is multiball a pain to trigger the 2nd time. Spell T-O-M-C-A-T for every ball lock and then again to light Release? Holy crap. I guess it's best to get the Fighter Jackpot on the first multiball, but I like how the Landings carry over from one multiball to the next. I don't get many Landings so this was the first time I noticed this. *blush*

Quoted from Gov:

Please report back!

I need to order the switches first!

I discovered the wire gate in my ball trough is broken tonight. I think it's been this way all along. Whenever a ball drains I can hear the trough shuffling the balls around a few times and then it stops.

Does anyone have a picture of the ball trough and/or know what the gate is supposed to look like? I can't find a part number in the manual. Maybe it's not a gate? I just have the broken part to go on.

[EDIT] Is this it?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/12-6542

#544 9 years ago
Quoted from Snux:

There's a picture here from a PinBot, trough is the same.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/outhole-kicker-weak#post-59486

I think that would do the trick

Yep, that's what it looks like. I still have part of the old one and it matches up to your picture.

Quoted from Ghoen:

That would be the gate you need.
Don't forget Planetary Pinball has the complete parts catalogs on their website.

Damn, I wish they showed the lengths of each side. I have wire and a bender from Marco so I could just make the gate myself but I don't know how long the wire should be before each bend. I could wing it, but if I screw up I don't have a lot of wire.

#547 9 years ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

In case you F-14 owners missed it, Jean-Luc Picard has pop bumper decals available for Tomcat now. I just installed mine.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/terminator-2-chrome-cap-decals-helps-with-led-caps/page/4#post-1832556

Pretty nice. I just order a Comet red/white bumper ring for my F-14. I'll see how that turns out and then maybe look at making my own decal.

Quoted from SPeD66:

You're getting somewhere now friend.
Before you know it, you'll be rolling the displays back to zero & beyond.

Ha! I wish!

#550 9 years ago

Yeah, I think I have a long way to go before I roll the display. I can dream though!

#553 9 years ago

A couple things corrected on my F-14 tonight! First, my Cliffy return lane guides arrived! They are stunning and a perfect fit! Here are a few photos of my old ones. Please note the straight lines - not! Check out the flattened edges on these babies. The last photo is the new ones installed.

Don't cut yourself on those raised edges!Don't cut yourself on those raised edges!

Bends where there should be straight lines.Bends where there should be straight lines.

New Cliffy's INSTALLED!!!New Cliffy's INSTALLED!!!

Built my first ball gate from scratch tonight too! It came out pretty nice. This was my second attempt, my first was a complete mess because I was trying to get the measurements right (and didn't). It fits and moves around just like it is supposed to. No ball hang ups and no shuffling sounds in the trough. Perfect!

Shiny!  Please ignore my old man hands.Shiny! Please ignore my old man hands.

Snug as a bug.Snug as a bug.

That looks better!That looks better!

Avec pinballs.Avec pinballs.

#554 9 years ago

Installed a new rollover switch in the plunger lane last night. It's the one halfway up the habitrail. What a pain in the ass! I had to disassemble half of the PF just to get at it. Clear plastics came off, ramp habitrail came off, PF plastic came off... Ugh! The wire form had broken on it so I thought maybe, just maybe this could possibly be a malfunctioning switch that might be causing my two-ball multiball problem.

It was late by the time I got everything back on the PF so I'll be testing out the new switch while playing tonight! Wish me luck!

1 week later
#560 9 years ago

So it's been 72 games since I installed a new rollover switch in the shooter lane. The one under the wire ball guide, not the one in front of the plunger rod. I am happy to report that so far I have not experienced the two-ball multiball issue that I have reported on a few times in this thread. Out of those 72 games I've played, many have been intense ones. Multiple multiball games, multiple extra ball games, ball flying all over the place, and multiple people playing multiple styles. My initials are now all over the high scores in spots 1, 2, 3, and 4.

I don't want to jinx it, but so far so good. I am keeping track of how many games I've played so I'll report back after I hit another 100-200 games. *fingers crossed*

#562 9 years ago

All you F-14 owners, how do you increase the bonus? I understand how to increase the multiplier BONUS X (red chevrons), but how do you increase the bonus (blue chevrons)? I can't figure it out.

#564 9 years ago
Quoted from Gov:

Dunno, I always assumed it was just added to each shot in a small amount.

This is why I'm trying to figure it out. Sometimes I'll have a great ball where it's hitting everything on the playfield and then I'll drain and get 6x 14,000. Other times I'll hardly hit a thing and get a 3x 90,000 bonus. WTF? Where are these magical spots on the playfield to hit?

#566 9 years ago
Quoted from Wolfmarsh:

Most of your bonus comes from the upper playfield orbit.

This was my assumption too, but any idea how it adds up?

#568 9 years ago

I could do this, but i was hoping someone already went to the trouble of doing this and could just share the info.

#572 9 years ago

Outlanes? Well I won't be aiming for those. Thanks very much for checking! I just got home and was going to give this a try. Instead I found a package at my door. New COMET LEDs!!!!!!!!! Check out this new pop bumper ring! The upper PF is much brighter now!

I replaced 3 of the blue chevron lights with LEDs, 3 of the red chevron's and some of the white KILL lights with LEDs. The blue is like night and day. The red is not as noticeable as I had hoped, but they really weren't bad to begin with. The white is crazy bright. I might have to rethink them.

Sorry for the quality of the photos. Anyone that has tried to photograph LEDs knows how difficult it is to capture the truthiness of them.

20140825_205433.jpg20140825_205433.jpg

20140825_210311.jpg20140825_210311.jpg

#575 9 years ago

I just used regular old 1 SMD under the entire PF with the exception of the Green LED for the 'radar' I use a 1 SMD flexi for that one. Cheapest bulbs they had. Clear dome for all.

http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smd5050.htm
http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/1smdflex.htm

I haven't had the chance to play as I just finished LED'ing under the entire PF last night. I'll let you know if the LED's bug me in any way. F-14 is just so incredibly bright and laced with inserts that I thought 2 SMD would be too much.

Red had the least impact. Blue and White had the most. The only colour I am disappointed with is the Orange. I find it too dark. I guess it really shouldn't be Orange, it should be Amber. Comet lists Orange and Amber as the same colour, but I still think it looks off. I tried White under the orange inserts but it was too much - almost washed out. I am going to order some Yellow next time and see if that brings it back to looking the way I like.

I don't plan on converting the GI to LED, except for maybe the blue bulbs in the divertor as the blue condoms let too much of the white incandescent light through. I'm considering doing the translite (but not the flashers).

I also ordered spare 1 SMD flexi LEDs so that I can light up the flipper buttons and spare Orange for the coin slots which brightened them up quite a bit. I might try Yellow LEDs in those too though.

I will take more pictures tonight.

#576 9 years ago

Finished LED'ing my F-14 last night. Holy crap it is bright! Fire up my first LED game and ended up getting my 2nd ever Fighter Jackpot. End score was 3.6M which was good enough for 3rd on the high score list at my house.

Overall, I find the 1 SMD incredibly bright. I cannot imagine using anything brighter. When I walked away from the machine my eyes were wide open. I didn't have a headache or anything, but I felt... uh, off. I'm guessing that it is the flicker of the LED's bothering my eyes. My wife has better vision than I do so I brought her down to take a look. She's able to read the thoughts in my head so seeing flicker isn't a problem for her. She says it's flickering.

I really like the look of the LEDs so I'm keeping them. I've decided to go ahead and purchase a LCD OCD board. There's supposed to be a batch of Sys11 released in Sept so hopefully I'll end up with one.

Oh, and my bumper ring broke. Part of the soldered connection came right off the board and it went dead. Art is going to replace it at no charge. Lastly, I still haven't warmed up to the new orange LEDs. I need to change them out for yellow or try another companies version of orange.

Photos to come I promise!

#578 9 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

CT premiums in mine and no flicker. Make sure your power supply is good too. Mine is quite bright with all the LEDs and standard bulb flashers along with the added in missing flashers. I can't play in total darkness, but with enough ambient light it's awesome.

How do I test the power supply? I'm getting power therefore it is good?

Are these the ones you bought?

http://shop.cointaker.com/category.sc;jsessionid=82ECA9E4413AB8D5F09610E027234BAB.m1plqscsfapp04?categoryId=184

These are more than twice the price I paid. I know I went cheap though. I think my entire order with the bumper ring was under $80 shipped to Canada. The money I saved on bulbs I can put towards the LED OCD PCB.

How do you find the orange?

#580 9 years ago

Your blue and whites look very similar to mine. Your orange is definitely better, but I'd wager my red is deeper. It could be the photo, but your red looks more white than mine. You would think LEDs would all be the same seeing as they are all coming from China.

I don't see any ghosting on mine. Ghosting is when an insert is lite up or partially lit up when it shouldn't be - correct?

Flickering I relate to the refresh rate on an LCD monitor. Some people can see a computer monitor refreshing the screen and others cannot. A decent video camera will always capture a low refresh rate.

Strobing is the one that confuses me.

#583 9 years ago

I find the biggest change is the green LED. The radar stands out now instead of hiding in the PF.

#585 9 years ago

I had the two-ball multiball issue happen tonight. Actually I had quite a few oddities happen tonight.

The first weird issue, happened with the diverter. I was just playing a normal game. Ball was in play and I heard the diverter engage. I'm not sure which diverter arm was active because I have a decal mod on that clear plastic. The ball was no where near the VUK, or any of the switches that typically engage the diverter.

The second weird issue, was the two-ball. I had 3 balls locked and RELEASE was lit. The ball was in play and the next thing I know it kicked the ball out of the right lock.

Crap! It had been almost 150 games since I replaced the switch midway up the habitrail in the plunger lane with no issues until tonight.

This is definitely pointing to a diode issue. There is voltage leaking backwards somewhere. However, it could all be related the diverter, but I honestly haven't looked at the diverter in enough detail to know what could be wrong with it.

#591 9 years ago

I just want to confirm something with everyone that I believe is common for F-14, but I'm not sure. When set to FREE PLAY if your games ends and there are balls locked the game will go into MATCH mode and kick out the locked balls.

If I press START before the balls kick out it will start a new game and the balls will remain in the locks. The CPU doesn't seem to care. So now I'm starting a new game and I have balls already locked. Is this just an F-14 thing?

#593 9 years ago
Quoted from Pac-Fan:

Correct, this is an F-14 thing. In addition (I believe I posted earlier in this thread or another thread), if you press the start button (on free play or with extra credits loaded) *while* the last ball is draining, it will improperly give your bonus onto your new game, AND eat your first ball leaving ready to shoot ball #2 instead of ball #1. This is a bug I have only noticed on F-14.

Cool. Thanks! I'm bringing my pin to a show here in Ottawa and I was a bit concerned about this.

#594 9 years ago

Guys, I need to know the proper diode number for flipper coils. I have a broken one. It's a 1N4003. I took a look at the other diodes on my coils and the numbers are all different. 1N4002, 4004… what diode is supposed to be on the coils??? The manual doesn't list the diode number, just the coil and the diode for the EOS switch which is a 4001.

#596 9 years ago

4004 for the flippers it is. Thanks.

In the F-14 manual is states that the banded side of the diode should be connected to the solid blue wire and the non-banded side goes to the trace wires. On mine, none of the bands are connected to the solid blue wire.

Should they be?

#599 9 years ago
Quoted from Snux:

No....
Just took a look at my old playfield and the manual. I see where you found the comment in the manual (on the page with the flipper assembly, right)? The comment there about the blue wire is wrong - checking my old playfield and the schematics later on in the manual, they are not blue. Also - this comment would only apply to the flippers anyway.
For general coils, there is one power line which daisy chains around all of them (there might be a couple of chains, but you get the idea). This one is easy to spot as generally there are 2 wires on that lug. One bringing the power line in from the previous coil, the other looping off to the next one. Only exception is the last coil in the line. You can also tell which one is the power line as the cable is thicker. The other lug has the ground connection - this gets connected to ground by the driver board when it's time for the coil to fire. The banded end of the diode goes to the power side, so generally speaking the lug with 2 wires on.

Yeah, it was in the flipper assembly notes.

What do you mean it would only apply to the flippers? The coil controls the flipper action. Aren't we talking about the same thing here?

If the banded side of the diode goes to the power side, then for me that is the blue wires and my diodes are all backwards.

Sorry, maybe I'm misunderstanding something...

Quoted from wayout440:

Add: If they were installed backwards, you'd pop your solenoid supply power fuse.

Good to know. Thank you!

#602 9 years ago

I'll take another look tonight to see if the blue wires to my flipper coils have a trace colour on them. I didn't see any, but I'll trace it back even further. The blue wires I'm talking about are soldered to the middle terminal on the coils.

#604 9 years ago

The center contact is solid blue wire. The blue wire is coming off the EOS switch. I resoldered the diodes onto the flipper coil and matched them up to the other flipper coils. Nothing blew up, or melted or started smoking so that's good. Played about 15 games after I done with the iron. No misfires.

#605 9 years ago

So I tossed another 35-40 games onto my F-14. No two-ball. Which is good. Even better, I left the pin plugged in overnight, and had it powered up and in attract mode all day. So whatever possible issues that may be lingering are definitely not being caused by heat.

#606 9 years ago

Check it out, all packed up for the Ottawa Pinball & Gaming Show this weekend! Pick up is Wednesday for me!

20140908_234704.jpg20140908_234704.jpg

#609 9 years ago

You have to remove the clear plastic, and black divertor plastic. Unfortunately you have to remove all of the habitrails first to get it out of there.

#611 9 years ago

The screw driver needs to be the right size especially on stripped stuff. Many people think a Phillips is just a Phillips when really there are a variety of different sizes and shapes to the points. I'm not saying that's you, just saying for anyone listening.

Are you able to cut the heads off using flush cutters or a mini hand saw?

#614 9 years ago

You can also get them from Comet. Comet's version has LEDs on both sides of the ring. You are only purchasing the ring, not the bumper cap from Comet.

Here is what mine looks like;

comet.jpgcomet.jpg

1 month later
#628 9 years ago

It looks great Dreg! As long as the colours match I think I'm in.

If you need an F-14 to test a set on I'm in Ottawa. Canada Post lettermail is cheap.

#631 9 years ago
Quoted from Hellfire:

Does anyone have pics of these plastics installed on a F14???

Here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f14-tomcat-owners-club-fans-also-welcome/page/5#post-1594698

Here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f14-tomcat-owners-club-fans-also-welcome/page/10#post-1773798

Here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f14-tomcat-owners-club-fans-also-welcome/page/10#post-1774318

Here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f14-tomcat-owners-club-fans-also-welcome/page/11#post-1818785

My opinion of this sticker mod? I can't imagine my F-14 without it. I was unsure at first, but after having in installed for about a week I love it. Brightens up a dreary part of the PF. I'm all about colour and this fits the theme perfectly!

#636 9 years ago

Guys, I've been curious about this for a while now so I thought I'd ask. Is this a common screw post on F-14? What the hell is the purpose of it?

upkicker_clearview.pngupkicker_clearview.png

Better pic;

wtf_screw.pngwtf_screw.png

#639 9 years ago
Quoted from Freeplay40:

On another note... I've completed, for now, my production of Space Station ramps, and about to start on the one I want to do for the F-14. While not technically a ramp I guess, it's the collector/diverter in the upper left hand corner. Plan at this point is to do it in dark transparent BLUE and dark transparent RED and then look to offering a lighting mod tied into the landing/lock on signals. Could also do it easily in clear if desired.

Looking forward to seeing this!

#645 9 years ago

I think I'm leaning towards wanting red more than blue.

1 week later
#649 9 years ago

Time for my recurring post. I am still looking for this plastic;

f14_forum.pngf14_forum.png

Please PM me if you have one that you are willing to sell. I would like to pay under $30 shipped to my location.

#652 9 years ago

[post deleted by author]

#661 9 years ago

Got mine today Dreg! They look great! I hope to finish up my flipper rebuild/upgrade this weekend and put them on. I'll post photos for all.

#667 9 years ago

One of the #47 bulbs burnt out on my divertor. When I pulled off the blue condom it ripped (crap!) so I ordered a bunch from PinballLife. I put the new condom on today and turned on the game and the new condom with the bulb lit up looks completely different from the other two. Almost green. It looks like crap.

I installed a blue LED and it looks fine, but the bulb condom doesn't fit the bulb properly and the LED is shorter than the 47 bulbs.

Where do you guys purchase replacement bulb condoms?
What should I do?

#669 9 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

I would replace the diverter lamps with frosted blue and red LEDs and forget about the condoms.

What bulb do you recommend? I'm in Canada so ordering LEDs is not so easy and shipping can really bit me in the ass. I prefer Comet.

#671 9 years ago

Those bulbs look too short to be installed into the divertor. #44 bulb types stick out further, I'd prefer a taller bulb.

#675 9 years ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

Titan Pinball's are longer.
http://www.titanpinball.com/products_detail.php?ProductID=28

LED BA9S Frosted White Sq_070309... 8 KB

Those do look longer. At least longer than Comet's. Are you using them? Do you have the condoms on them?

#678 9 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

I don't get the obsession with the longer bulb, and why anyone would want/need big pointy long bulbs sticking out of the diverter sockets. Must be an inferiority complex

For me it's the look. The short bulbs are too hidden in the black divertor plastic. I also have Dreg's sticker mod on the clear plastic so that takes a bit of height away from the bulbs.

I personally don't like the look of the frosted bulbs sitting in the divertor. If I bought some I would cap them using the bulb condoms to keep the red/blue theme going.

Quoted from mbott1701:

Yes and Yes.
I kept the condoms on to reduce light bleeding into the adjacent frosted dome when one of the lights was lit but its partner was not.
Not the best pic...but

leds.png 406 KB

That looks perfect. Thanks for the photo! How long did it take you to find the correct bulbs?

#680 9 years ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

Actually found them by accident.
I got a bunch of 555s from Titan for the arrow inserts and I just included some 44s in the order. Turned out the 555s were too tall for the arrow inserts, but I figured the 44s would work great in the diverter. Tried it, like it, so I kept them in there.

No problems putting the bulb condoms on them? Are they loose?

#686 9 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

I guess your sockets are not right. Mine are just fine with the short bulbs.
» YouTube video

What? They're fine. I'm just more particular than you are.

Man, that new sticker mod looks great! What are your thoughts on it Industen?

#697 9 years ago
Quoted from el_brio:

If anyone could take a look at the one I posted I would appreciate it. What do I need to look at if I go see it?

$1400-$1500 seems to be the normal price for F-14 with the typical issues. Quick sales will be in the $1K range, but anywhere between $1K-$1.5K is average for a perfectly working machine that needs some TLC.

-1
#706 9 years ago

Your wiring looks good, at least on the flippers. The lower right flipper has had some of the wires changed out completely, but it is wired correctly. You have solid red wire in place of factory white/purple wires.

I just rebuilt my flippers, and while I'm still troubleshooting a problem on mine, I have become familiar with how it should look. Yours look good.

#709 9 years ago

Before I start hunting all over the internet, does anyone know where to buy these snubber board pcb nylon standoffs?

standoffs.pngstandoffs.png
#713 9 years ago

Uh… why do you only have one transformer under the PF? I have two.

#720 9 years ago
Quoted from TrainH2o:

second one simply burns electricity, and makes the Canadian government feel better.

I think the US government buys the electricity from Quebec and then sells it back to us so if any government is feeling better I would guess the USA.

Never knew about this isolation transformer. When I attended a pin show here in Ottawa a few months ago I tipped my pin on it's end and the damn isolation transformer nearly broke from it's screws and fell to the bottom. It held on with only one half screwed in screw. I'm taking that thing out tomorrow and selling it.

Thanks for the links!

#723 9 years ago
Quoted from LongJohns:

...but I have only 1 transformer on my F14 (and Getaway for that matter). %)
I can tell you that I never heard of having to install an extra transformer into a unit that already has a transformer (unless the voltage requirements are different) and I deal with CSA (Canadian Standards) fairly often as we bring in a lot of "foreign" equipment where I work.

It's an Ontario Hydro thing. This is the post from google rec.games.pinball;

"Way back when in Canada, many Provinces required an isolation
transformer for safety. Not needed so you can usually just unplug &
run the prestine original cord to the wall. Another thing way back in
the early electronic pin days in Canada, was that you couldn't have
bare wood under the transformer & power board. So the operators had to
roll on some gray or black paint to prevent a possible fire. That was
another useless thing which was abandoned, aolong with Ontario Hydro
approval instead of CSA or the USA version UL. Thank goodness for free
trade which has done away with stupid seperate approval agencies, so
now UL or CSA is good in Canada. We had ULC also in the past."

#727 9 years ago

I don't think this happens any more, especially since some of their isolation transformers have caught fire. Not to mention some of their 'precautions' are now listed as 'useless'.

#729 9 years ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Has anybody on this forum added bulbs to the Tom Cat spot targets at the upper play field? I just switched over all the lamps to LEDs on mine, and thought it seemed really strange that the same lighting detail wasn't in place at all the spot target areas. Doesn't seem like there's a practical reason why they wouldn't have done this from the factory.

I added the flashers back in and thought the same thing about the GI by the targets. The only thing I could think of was that they were worried the bulbs would shatter from the upper flippers.

1 week later
#772 9 years ago
Quoted from jeffpm:

This may be a stupid question, but when changing the GI bulbs, do you do it from below the playfield like the insert bulbs?

Depends on the bulb location. Some are easiest to replace from the topside of the PF, but there are quite a few where it's just easier to unscrew the socket and remove the bulb from underneath.

#780 9 years ago
Quoted from jeffpm:

Makes sense. And how do you change the diverter bulbs? I looked around but didn't find any obvious way of doing it.

These can be a pain in the ass, but they just untwist like the others. The divertor bulbs are the hardest ones to change, at least on my pin.

#784 9 years ago
Quoted from Snux:

It's not quite as fancy as that. During multiball, if you hit all the TOMCAT targets on the playfield (top and bottom), then the outlane SPECIAL will light. Or at least I'm pretty certain that's what it is.

Yes that is correct.

#791 9 years ago

Yep. Plus some whitening. I can't stand yellow flippers on F-14.

#793 9 years ago

What was the original colour? I thought white, but I may be wrong.

#796 9 years ago

In your location? Probably $1200. Price up here in the Great White North is closer to $1500.

#802 9 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Pretty cheap. Good luck finding one in the locally in the Toronto area for that price unless its a little beat up.

Toronto is the center of the universe. Prices there are inflated. I picked mine up in Ottawa for $1500. Player's Copy. Needed some minor work, but it was my first pin so I put a shit-ton of work into it.

In regards to the sound, mine does the same thing. You just need to let the machine boot a little more. The sound on mine returns on Ball 2 or after I lock Ball 1 (I think).

2 weeks later
#816 9 years ago
Quoted from Hess:

How often do you guys see an air ball that get's trapped up top at one of the flashers or hits the glass hard down on the lower flippers or ends up back in the shooter lane? Not worried about the glass and the shooter lane but the one that gets caught up by the flasher sucks because I have to pull the glass and usually lose the ball that's being played. Flasher misfire probably happened about 3-4 times after a lot of games played since Christmas day. Just wondering if I need to adjust something or add a bounce off pin or ???

I've had this happen once. This was before I installed the proper coils (green) intro the upper PF area. Someone had put the stronger red coils up there.

#846 9 years ago
Quoted from Snux:

Not sure without checking the manual again. Also, often the manual was printed before the final ROM versions so they don't always tie up. The number of locks from spelling TOMCAT is adjustable though I think, if 2 isn't the default.

I'm not sure what ROM version I have, but the default on mine is 2 for spelling TOMCAT the first time. If you manage to set off multiball, then the default after multiball ends sets to 1 for spelling TOMCAT. I'm not sure if this is the same with everyone else's pin. Here is the summary;

START game.
Spell TOMCAT
Lock Ball 1, Ball2
Spell TOMCAT
Lock Ball 3
RELEASE lights
MULTIBALL!

2nd time

Spell TOMCAT
Lock Ball 1
Spell TOMCAT
Lock Ball 2
Spell TOMCAT
Lock Ball 3
Spell TOMCAT
Light Release
MULTIBALL!

The default for the second multiball feels a little unbalance to me when compared to the first.

#850 9 years ago
Quoted from jeffpm:

So if I spell TOMCAT 3 times, I can then lock all 3 balls one right after the other. Is this how it's supposed to be?

Yes. Mine is the same on the first MULTIBALL. After MULTIBALL finishes if I spell T-O-M-C-A and drain before getting the final letter it resets. My spelling progress is not retained.

#860 9 years ago

Hi guys, my VUK seems to be double firing. I'll send the ball up the right side of the PF into the VUK and it'll kick the ball into the upper habitrail. As the ball rolls into the divertor and passed the lower habittrail switch I'll hear and see the VUK activate again. This doesn't effect play at all, but I would like to fix it. I'm thinking it has something to do with the lower habitrail switch.

Has anyone had a similar issue before I bust out the manual and start digging?

#865 9 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

If I remember correctly, the VUK switch is a "forked" flat copper switch actuator that gets pushed down by the weight of the ball to trip, I think the double firing of the VUK is often related to how loose/tight the tolerance of the VUK trip switch is. It seems that after firing, the VUK can trip itself again if it is adjusted to be too sensitive. You might look into starting a switch edge test and adjust so that the switch trips only when it is all the way down with the weight of the ball and no sooner.

Sorry, I didn't explain my issue very well. "Double-firing" was not the correct term I should have used. It is not rapid firing, machine gunning, or double-firing. Here is what happens;

I will send a ball up to VUK, I'll hear "Fire" and it will launch it into the upper most habitrail. As the ball gets to the divertor I hear "Fire" again and I can see the VUK activating. So it is not an issue where the VUK is activating twice in rapid succession. There is a delay between the first "Fire" and second "Fire".

Has anyone experienced this sort of thing? Sorry for not being clear in my original post.

#871 9 years ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

Have you inspected the VUK, specifically the plunger from underneath?
I had a similar issue and it turned out to be the role pin for the plunger had worked itself out and was preventing the cup from re-seating itself, so the game thought it still had a ball in the lock on hole.

I have not. I was looking for bits of genius like this before starting my troubleshooting. This will be the first thing I check tonight. Thanks everyone. I will report back with my results.

#886 9 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Check adjustment #45 in the adjustments menu:
Off
01 - Weak Kick
02 - Hard Kick
03 - Weak Kick w/Flight Ins
04 - Hard Kick w/Flight Ins
05 - Kill Flipper

What's the default setting? Minus the kill flipper option.

#889 9 years ago

Weak is the default? Damn… I'd better check mine, there's no way that sucker is set to weak the way it is kicking out.

#908 9 years ago

Woohoo! New high score for me! Finally managed to get my 2nd ever Fighter Jackpot! Almost set off multiball a second time, killed Yagov once. My longest game ever!

20150125_122645.jpg20150125_122645.jpg
#911 9 years ago

Hi guys,

Noticed I lost the bottom two rows of lights in the backbox. Top two rows still work. Bulbs are fine. Flashers are fine. Connections look fine. It's the bulbs that use the brown and white/brown wiring.

My cheap-o multimeter has a dead battery. Hoping you guys will tell me it's just a fuse as I can't measure the damn voltage right now.

1 week later
#933 9 years ago

I fixed both of my issues today. Thank you for your posts. Resolutions are shown below to help others out in the future.

Quoted from mbott1701:

Have you inspected the VUK, specifically the plunger from underneath?
I had a similar issue and it turned out to be the role pin for the plunger had worked itself out and was preventing the cup from re-seating itself, so the game thought it still had a ball in the lock on hole.

This is exactly what had happened. The role pin had worked itself out to one side. A ball would sit in the cup and the VUK would fire, but on the way down the role pin, because it was sticking out to one side, would sometimes catch on the forked switch and trigger the VUK again. Simple fix, just pushed it back in with a flat head screw driver.

Quoted from wayout440:

Sorry but "look fine" doesn't cut it here, you'll have to break down and get some batteries for that meter. It's almost never just a fuse
The schematic below shows the connectors 6P4 at the backbox, 3J8 at the power supply board, and offboard 5A SB fuse that serve the brown & brown/wht circuit.

I measured the voltage coming off the power board. Voltage was present so I worked my way down the line. Through the fuses was also fine. Then I got to the 6P4/6J4 connector. I took it apart and voltage was okay here. Odd, since there's only another couple feet of wire before it is soldered to the lights. So I connected the 6P4/6J4 connector back up and voila! The lights came back on. I was surprised by this because the connector was a pain in the ass to take apart. Once it was back together I wiggled it around, but the bulbs remained on. Seems the connector pins are good. I'm guessing it is just oxidization that was the problem.

2 weeks later
#951 9 years ago
Quoted from GixerEd1:

Hello Fellow F-14 Pinsiders!
New to pinballing, about a month or so, but it's been a crazy few weeks.
I tried pinballing, found it intriguing (contrasted to arcade games), and here I am now - a proud owner of an F-14 Tomcat (cool theme and "lightshow" on this pin!!).
Hope to contribute someday to offset some of the knowledge and insight I'm gaining from you all and other pinsiders.
Already planning to go to Pinfest on May 2, 2015.
Talk about diving in head first.

Welcome aboard! Where are those new Pinfest posters anyway? *heads off to find link*

#966 9 years ago

I only replaced the incandescent bulbs under the inserts. I bought the cheapest LEDs Art sold. They worked great and made a huge difference in the look of the game, especially under the chevrons. After a few games I started getting a bad headache and I never get headaches. Since I liked the look of the LEDs so much I ended up buying a LED OCD board from Herg. This eliminated the LED harshness and the on/off transitions became smooth, almost fluid. To me it was night and day. I'd recommend one to anyone here thinking of going the LED route under the PF.

For the GI, I've been hesitant to switch to LEDs. I'm worried about ghosting or flicker. For those of you that have switched the GI to LED have you had any issues?

Oh, and sort of on topic off topic, has anyone found a decent orange? I ended up trying orange, amber, yellow and white LEDs under my orange inserts but I didn't like the colour and switched back to incandescent.

#975 9 years ago

Cointaker premiums are $2/bulb. I haven't counted the GI bulbs, but there have to be 50 of them no? So that's $100 plus shipping/taxes for me. Hmm... I'll check Comet.

Did you order frosted bulbs for everything? 1-SMD or what?

#980 9 years ago
Quoted from jeffpm:

IMO the Cointakers are not worth the money. But to each their own, of course. I used the 38 cent Comet bulbs for all my inserts and they are great. No ghosting or flicker.

I agree. I have used Comet and Art with zero issues. His customer service is excellent and he has always gone above and beyond for my orders. Even replying to emails at 2AM his time!

I'm sure Cointaker bulbs and service are also great, but for me Art has earned my business for life.

#983 9 years ago

I have the 1-SMD, what you are calling premiums, under my inserts as well. I find they work great and you can get them in nice and close and still not see the outline of the bulb.

I'll go with frosted on top of the playfield for the GI. I already have some 3-SMD and 7-SMD strips that I had planned on using in the Yagov kicker and by the apron.

#986 9 years ago

I've decided to place an order for GI LEDs. Anyone know how many bulbs I'm going to need off the top of their head? Thank you.

Oh, and is there a #1683 equivalent in LEDs? Beacon LEDs?

#988 9 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Yeah, there is some equivalents out there for the beacon bulbs. IMO these are real aircraft beacons and last a long time, and are super bright - so I've left mine as is. The thing is bright as hell with all the standard flashers and premium LEDs in it anyway.

Good to know. I'll leave them as is.

For the GI bulb count, I checked the manual but it doesn't include GI under the "Lamp" section. It just goes over the inserts and flashers. I've counted the bulbs in the backbox using pictures people have provide in this thread, but it looks like I'll have to count the GI bulbs on my pin.

#996 9 years ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Comet sells 2 LED dome bulbs in packs of 25 for real cheap. Go crazy and get two of 'em.

I'm going to order the 1 SMD frosted natural white bulbs. I am using the 1 SMD bulbs for the inserts and I like them so I'll give them a try in the backbox and for the GI.

Quoted from jeffpm:

I can't find the notes I took, but I think it was somewhere around 22 GI bulbs. Might want to give it a once over to make sure I'm not totally off base.

I counted 27, but I tossed a few numbers in there because I wasn't exactly sure. Either way I'll order two 25 pack bags from Comet. Thanks!

Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Can any of my fellow F-14 fans post a picture of their spoon switch under the jet bumber? Or even direct me to a good thread? Im pretty sure my wiring is correct because points are scoring, but I dont know where the diode belongs.
Need some assistance and Im not 100% positive on what goes where.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-rebuilding-pop-bumpers

1 week later
#1031 9 years ago
Quoted from Gorno:

Hey guys, I am looking to replace my back flasher domes, as I have an early run with the clear domes. I couldn't find the domes in the manual, so I wasn't sure which to replace them with. Will these work?
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8149-10
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8149-9

These are the wrong shape I believe. The ones in the back have a wider diameter. They would work, but you'll have a gap.

#1041 9 years ago

I don't see it in the manual. This looks like the one you need though;
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-6306-2

It's best to take it apart and compare. I see this one as well. It's possible Williams used a VUK kicker for the outlane;
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/565-0029-01

#1050 9 years ago

The stickers really do fit the game well. At first I was unsure, but now I can't image the pin without them. As a bonus, my right side clear plastics had yellowed slightly. No normal person would have even noticed it, but I noticed it all the time! I tried to sun bleach them back to white, but it didn't work. So covering them up made me one happy camper.

If you are concerned that you won't be able to see the ball going up the habit trails as you pull the plunger - don't. You can still see the ball plenty.

#1057 9 years ago

It looks fantastic! Beautiful work! For the plastics, did you just buy all new ones? Oh, and are those the plastic protectors off eBay? They look really nice!

#1060 9 years ago

Man those new CPR plastics are beautiful. I love the rounded edge on them.

#1096 9 years ago

Averell what size protector is that? I've been trying to make one but I can't get the size down.

#1102 9 years ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

Pinball resource sells it for pennies. Just ordered one a month ago.

Part number or it didn't happen!

#1105 9 years ago

Thank you!

#1107 9 years ago
Quoted from Hess:

I believe mine has double rubbers on it to prevent the ball from getting in there.

Mine had the same, but I didn't like the look of it, especially since the holes for the guard are pre-drilled. In 100+ games I've only ever got the ball trapped in this space once and that was before I replaced my upper coils from red to the proper green ones.

#1110 9 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Well,
you see this part is very necessary in that area.
My Tomcat is very very fast because not only the playing field has become very fast, I also have strengthened the coils, in addition, with condensers.
It's no compare to the normal coils or the weak green ones.
Now, the game is as quick as it should be.
A problem is the yagov kicker, the backfire is so hard, that the ball almost smashes the glass. That needs an adjustment, then this F-14 is perfect.

I'm not sure how to respond to this post. Why would you strengthen the coils? I had the red coils in the upper playfield and switched them to green. Green is what was shipped from the factory. You don't need anything stronger in the upper mini-playfield. The flippers up there are meant to be toned down so you don't put the ball through a target.

As quick as it should be? Your F-14 is beautiful looking, but it sounds like you've tweaked it so that lower PF flipper shots will send the ball through the back of the wood cabinet. That's not the way the game was intended to be played. To each their own.

#1130 9 years ago

Has anyone managed to source the red chevron inserts for the PF? My blue look to be fine, but I've noticed a line through one of the red ones. I can't tell if it is the mylar creating a line to trick my imagination or if the insert has broken. I'm surprised no one has tried 3D printing these things.

2 weeks later
#1175 9 years ago

Are the chevrons under some license or copyright protection? Why hasn't someone started 3D printing these things? They don't need to be perfect as they are going to be sanded flat when installed.

#1187 9 years ago
Quoted from Gorno:

I printed mine off of this guys website and they turned out great: http://www.pinballcards.com/Pinball-Cards/Page/2
In other news, I finished converting to LEDs and got rid of the ugly incandescent flashers. Looks 100% better. But, I did have to disconnect the warming resistors on my lamp boards.

Agreed. These are the best cards I've seen. I have a yellow set printed on glossy card stock on my pin. They look fantastic.

2 weeks later
#1236 9 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

I keep seeing folks that are changing the targets out for custom designs, I just have to say that I am not a fan...yes, it's your game so do what you will. It's odd, I've modded my games but there's something disturbing to me about changing the targets. Am I the only one?

I am not a fan either. There have been some nice ones designed, but having all the targets done up with a custom design to me is just as boring as them all being stock. Either way they are all the same. There have also been some that have the letters T-O-M and C-A-T, but I am not a fan of this either as there are already inserts on the PF for this. To each their own.

#1239 9 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

However, if they came out with OLED screen targets...I could be persuaded. Could you imagine targets that spell out T-O-M on the target face, then hitting them a small explosion of color, perhaps evolving into other pictures? An F14 plane flying "through" your targets sequentially during attract mode? Hey, if they can do it with slot machine buttons that folks are hammering on all day, why not a pinball machine target?

That would be sick! You painted a vivid picture.

#1248 8 years ago

Switch 44 is the is "4" target (right center) of the PF.

#1288 8 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

I used Cointaker.frosteds in mine and like it very much

1430866980361-1489537901.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

I stole wayout's colour scheme and used frosted 1 SMD bulbs from Comet. Looks great!

#1295 8 years ago
Quoted from tonedef131:

I've also thought about getting one in green with the flex head too.

I have a flex head under mine. I makes a world of difference. The entire insert is lit up now.

1 week later
#1310 8 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Next step is my "Afterburner" for the upper flipperfingers.
With this modified circuit you get much more power into the game.
DSCN1518.JPG (Click image to enlarge)
DSCN1519.JPG (Click image to enlarge)
DSCN1522.JPG (Click image to enlarge)
DSCN1523.JPG (Click image to enlarge)
With the little switch you can fly without "Afterburner".
DSCN1524.JPG (Click image to enlarge)
The sign just shows the direction how to switch to play with "Afterburner".
DSCN1525.JPG (Click image to enlarge)

You're dedicated, I'll give you that.

#1315 8 years ago

Can't wait to see it with the mirror blades exposed.

1 week later
#1337 8 years ago

Does anyone have a scan of the RESCUE decal for the Rescue Kickback area? Mine has worn off and I want to replace it. It's the one closest to the apron by the left flipper button. PM me if you have a scan. Much appreciated!

#1341 8 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

Here's a picture how the F-14 looks at the moment...
DSCN1787.JPG

Power that baby up and turn off the lights! Then take a few pics!

#1347 8 years ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

I think pinballfan meant what the lights you used for the "Lock On" (Red) and "Landing" (Blue) on the diverter housing, upper left of the playfield.

Yes, this is what he meant. I was going to ask the same question.

#1353 8 years ago

We just want to know what type of bulbs he's using in the diverter. The diverter is housed in the black chunk of plastic up on the top left of the PF. We are not asking about issues with LEDs there.

#1356 8 years ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

Help!
Most of the time a ball ejected from the right eject hits the rubber and does NOT go through the orbit, this is getting very frustrating... has anyone seen this or know how to adjust the eject properly? Left side works perfect every time, only an issue on the right.
Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

IMG_4818.JPG

Could we get a better picture of the area? Lights on with the machine off. Remove the glass and take a photo straight down at the PF. Make sure to get the right eject and the right side loop in the photo.

I take it is hitting the post rubber behind the blue standup targets?

3 weeks later
#1375 8 years ago

FYI... There is a F-14 apron on eBay for a decent price if anyone is looking for one or wanting to upgrade theirs.
ebay.com link: Williams pinball F 14 Tomcat apron

1 week later
#1404 8 years ago

Okay, that looks pretty sick!

#1409 8 years ago

Nice catch!

3 weeks later
#1427 8 years ago

I honestly thought this was going to be too much, but you pulled it off. It looks fantastic!

#1436 8 years ago
Quoted from mbott1701:

Well, according to the score card, hitting lit targets 1-6 lights the Fly By Bonus X and spinner.
So, as I understand it, once that's lit and you get the ball around the upper right loop, it increments your bonus arrows (red chevrons). Could be wrong, I'll have to do a specific test...

This is pretty much an unused feature for F-14. I mean why hit 1-6 when you can just shoot the ball through the inner orbit to light the Bonus X? I never aim for 1-6 unless I'm trying to ricochet the ball into Yagov, or the Launch. Even then it's only 2 and 5 that I hit intentionally.

#1439 8 years ago
Quoted from Snux:

That's why on Second Sortie I've brought them much more into gameplay. You have to light 1 thru 6 in order to make a mission available to play. One of the missions involves hitting the moving lit 1-6 target. They are a bit of a waste in the stock code though for sure.
On the subject of Second Sortie, I finally have some vacation coming up. I'm away for most of it, but I'll be taking my laptop and cutting some code offline with a cold beer or three. Let's see how it looks for real when I get back....

Snux I hope this becomes a kit someday. I've said it before, but if DP ever decided to produce this for you it would be awesome. F-14 had a 14,000+ production run. BOP only had a run of 8,000+

As it stands I'm growing a little tired of my F-14. I still enjoy it, but the game is definitely lacking and it's not exactly a crowd favorite at my house. Getting people to grasp the concept of 4 flippers is a lot harder than I ever expected it to be.

3 weeks later
#1455 8 years ago

I paid $1500 CAD ($1200 USD) for mine just over a year ago and I never had buyers remorse. $700-$900 you are going to get a beater. Player's condition is over $1K without a doubt. Immaculate condition... sky is the limit.

1 week later
#1465 8 years ago
Quoted from dri:

F14 fans, what kind of coilstops are you using in your games? I bought a kit from Marco (WFLKIT8787) and I've realized the angle of the flipper is way too steep. Comparing the Marco one vs the ones I took out, they're about 2.5mm longer than the kit ones.
Looking at the pictures of A-10821 (what the fine manual says) and A-12111 on Marcos website, then ones I took out looked more like A-12111.
Ideas?

It's this one;
http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=977

#1467 8 years ago
Quoted from dri:

Thanks! It seems clear Marco got something mixed up.

No problem. I ran into the same issue when I upgraded to WPC style flippers on my F-14. The A-12111 is for games 1988 on... F-14 was 1987.

#1471 8 years ago

Using Vid's guide it was easy to do. I find them much snappier than before. Plus I don't have to worry about that conical (sp?) spring rubbing against anything now.

#1474 8 years ago

Your picture isn't the best, but I know it's not the one furthest to the right. It's the left most or middle that are authentic. They look different in the photo.

#1482 8 years ago
Quoted from Averell:

... white beacon on prototype and early Tomcats is clear, later ones were glazed like shower glass.

I didn't know this. I just picked up a clear beacon on the weekend to replace my glazed one. I have a later edition F-14. I just figured my white beacon was old and sunbleached. Thanks for the info. I'm still going to replace it with the clear one. It's as clear as glass!

#1494 8 years ago

Has anyone swapped out the ceramic resistors on the flasher warming boards with any other type of resistor? I have a couple that are broken and need to be replaced and was wondering if I should just not bother with the ceramic and go up a step to these;

http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/W22-330RJI/985-1147-2-ND/2401645

Same rating, flame proof and I won't have to pay Marco ridiculous international shipping fees.

1 week later
#1498 8 years ago

Hi guys, I'm having an issue with my F-14. The outhole kicker died on me. No kick. Making the game pretty much useless. Flasher 1 also died at the same time. Both of these are on the same transistor - Q33. I connected an alligator plug to the transistor and touched the other end to ground. The coil kicked so I knew there wasn't any problem with the coil or the wiring under the PF. I put the outhole into coil test mode and then used a logic probe to trace the pulse. Q33 is fed from Q29. Q29 is fed from U20 pin 3. With the outhole in coil test mode I used my logic probe to detect the pulse off U20 pin 3. It was good. I followed the trace to Q29 and used my logic probe again. Q29 was also good. I again followed the trace to Q33. This time I measured a pulse but it was sporadic at best and didn't follow the same pattern of U20 or Q29. I determined Q33 was faulty and decided to replace it.

q33.pngq33.png

I remove the CPU board from the pin. Removed Q33 from the board and replaced it with another TIP122. This one; https://www.fairchildsemi.com/datasheets/TI/TIP122.pdf

I put the CPU back into the pin and turned it on. All seemed good, but then I noticed the outhole kicker moving. Almost like it was haunted. It crept out slowly, and then back. It was at this point I smelled burning electrical components. I switched off the pin and took a look at Q33. I went to touch it and I could feel the heat coming off it before my finger tip got close. Great...

I pulled the CPU out again. There was no visible damage to Q33 or the surrounding area, but I decided to replace Q33 again. Once I had the CPU back in I turned on the pin. This time the outhole kicker kicked and stayed active. I did a 10 count and nothing blew but turned off the pin again. Q33 was hot once again.

At this point I am not sure what to do. The datasheet on the TIP122 replacements I received are identical to the ratings for the original transistor. The B C E are also the same (I triple checked). I have the transistor installed correctly. I'm going to have to turn the pin on and use the logic probe on U20 and Q29 again, but I don't want anything burning up.

BTW, I posted this issue over at MAACA as well, but I wanted to put it out to a larger audience and I didn't want to continue pestering my local pin repair guys.

I am not sure what to do next. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

#1501 8 years ago

Thanks guys. I'll place another order today for some TIP102, 2N4401, resistor network. I'll probably order another U20 IC to cover my ass as well and some 1N4001 diodes for the coil. I'll post my list soon. If you guys could check it before I order I'd be grateful.

If there is anyone close to their machine could you let me know if SRC7 is a 10SIP? It's hard to tell from the schematics.

#1503 8 years ago

Thanks Snux! So looks like this is the resistor I need for SRC7;
http://www.digikey.ca/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=181151715&uq=635796455001324185

Here's my shopping list. Look okay?
digikeyorder.pngdigikeyorder.png

#1505 8 years ago

Sorry, the link was for SRC7 resistor network. Here;

schematics.pngschematics.png

In the schematics SRC7 is a 4.7K with 470pF so this makes it a resistor/capacitor???
Where the hell do you find these???

This was the resistor network I was going to replace it with;
47KSIP.png47KSIP.png

[EDIT] I see what you are saying. On the first schematic I posted the resistor shows 2.7K for SR7-3. SR7 and SRC7 are not the same thing. I have been reading the schematics incorrectly and making bad assumptions. SR for series resistors and SRC for series resistors and capacitors correct?

Here is the correct one;
http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?keywords=4610X-1-272LF-ND

#1510 8 years ago
Quoted from Snux:

Yup, correct, mistake I made once too Your part number is good.
The SRC are almost impossible to find these days. Clay's guides mentioned you can do without the cap side of it, just use a resistor SIP for the correct value, I've done that before and all has been well.

Thanks. Order is going in now.

#1512 8 years ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Replaced Q32 transistor to no avail. My coil is still locked on when I turn on the game. In my switch edge test the ball popper switch does not register unless I press the popper down.
Any more suggestions?

Your ball popper switch may be bad and stuck in the ON position.

Quoted from Snux:

I'm with Mr Wayout
Unplug J11 and then you should be able to get in with the logic probe without making anything toasty. I'd swap Q33 again and Q29. Also pay attention to that resistor array SR7 - they do fail. Use your meter on that from pin 1 to each of the other pins - although testing in circuit isn't great, you should at least find if one of the pins is open or dead shorted.
Off the MPU, check that the diode on the kicker coil is OK (assuming it has one). The other diode for this coil is on that big board under the playfield at the back with 16 diodes on. Grab a DMM and check that they all measure the same. Also try measuring the resistance of the coil with the meter and compare it to another coil with the same numbering.

I received my parts today so I was able to continue troubleshooting. I unplugged J11 and turned on the machine. As soon as I went into test mode the jet bumper started to fire repeatedly. I'm starting to think I have gremlins.

So I disconnect J19 to stop the jet bumper from machine gunning. I'll deal with that later... My focus is the outhole kicker. J11 is still disconnected so I put the outhole kicker into test mode. I use my logic probe to measure U20 pin 3. I get a low pulse. Same for SR7-3, same for Q29, same for Q33 same for the pin on J11. This seems correct to me.

#1514 8 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Don't you mean a high pulse?

s11ssol2.jpg

Well that's a handy schematic! No I mean a low pulse. I'm using a LP610 logic probe like this;
1lp610.jpg1lp610.jpg

All I'm seeing is the green LED which is low. When the pulse happens the red LED doesn't go on, it's more like the green LED is just taking a break.

#1516 8 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Hmmm. Just looked at the manual, Green LED is logic level low (solenoid would be inactive, as it should be, provided everything else is correct)
However, the red LED not going on appears suspicious to me. If all the LED go off means bad level or open circuit according to the manual.

The green LED doesn't really turn off. The pulse happens too quickly. The green LED doesn't really even flash. I can hear the pulse clearly though.

I have a DMM that measures TTL. I'll try it and see if I can see the high.

#1518 8 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Makes sense...I agree that is sounds like it is probably working correctly. I just use a DMM.

I'm looking for approximately 5VDC for a logic 1 correct? I have a TTL setting but it just has an up/down arrow. My guess it will show the down arrow solid and the up will be flickering. This won't really tell me much.

Could someone explain to me how to read the schematics? Specifically the lettering after the 1J11, 1J19 connections. For example, on the schematics (page 55) near Q69 it shows Q69 goes off to 1J19-6 which is the jet bumper, but beside that is STS4D. What does STS4D represent?

#1520 8 years ago

Thanks. It's been 16 years since I took Digital Logic in school.

#1522 8 years ago

Guys this is the outhole kicker under the apron of my F-14. Do I have the wires correct? Like a dumbass I took them off and put them back on without taking a photo.

20151008_212609.jpg20151008_212609.jpg

Are the wires correct? Is the diode correct?

[EDIT] Okay, I went through this entire thread and found an old photo I took. The wiring and diode are correct.

I put a new diode on the coil. Soldered everything back up and turned the pin on. The outhole kicker fired and remained on. I checked the resistance on the coil and it's reading 4 ohms. Good. I check the voltage... I'm expecting 30VDC. I get 7VDC. WTF?

I need a beer.

#1524 8 years ago

I had two beers.

This issue seems completely random. I had the coil in test mode when I measured it. The coil was not locked on. Earlier in the evening I was taking measurements. The pin was on and the coil was locked on. As I'm taking measurements the coil just turns off. This is when I put the coil in test mode. Nothing. I take a measurement and it's 7VDC on each lug. So while the coil is in test mode I put an alligator clip on the transistor Q33 and ground it. Nothing. Well fuck...

I will pull the board and replace Q33 and Q29. I'm wondering if I should just replace U20 at the same time. I've been hesitant to remove the board because it seems like something else goes wrong every time I put it back in.

This type of thing pisses me off. There is some shitty solder work around Q71 and that section is working perfectly. My soldering looks like heaven compared to it and it doesn't friggin work. Someone is testing me.

#1526 8 years ago

Thank you wayout. I think I just need to slow down. I get home from work, make dinner, and do the bedtime routine for my kids. By the time they actually go to sleep and I head downstairs and it's close to 9PM. I'm drained from the day so I don't really feel like soldering or even looking into the problem, but force myself to as my time is limited. Then I end up making dumb mistakes.

Tonight I will re-measure the voltage and resistance on the coil. If the correct voltage is not there then I will check the other coils in the chain. Then I'll call it a night, get some rest, and start fresh in the morning when I have much more free time.

#1530 8 years ago

Okay, I've settled down a bit. I managed to get a couple hours to look at this problem without interruptions. I measure the coil and I'm only seeing 7VDC. So I trace the wiring under the PF and there is a 2.5SB fuse practically 12" from the coil. I pop out the fuse and it's blown. New fuse goes in, power up the pin, and I have 34V at each coil again. Great.

Next step, the board comes out. I remove the TIP122 and 2N4401 pre-driver. The TIP122 is replaced with a TIP102. I check for solder splashes and also check for continuity from the top side of the PCB side to the bottom side. I check for continuity from U20 pin 3 all the way to 1J11-1. Everything checks out. The board goes back in. Power up the pin, and the outhole kicker locks. I shut it down before it pops another 2.5SB fuse. I disconnect 1J11 and bust out my logic probe. The readings I'm seeing are almost identical to what I saw before.

*Sigh*

So I put the ball release into coil test mode. It uses 1J11-3 and Q25, Q21, and U20 pin 11. This will at least give me something to compare to. The signals coming out of U20 pin 11 are nice and clean with a nice BEEEEEEEP . Low pulse out of pin 11. Clean pulses out of Q21 and Q25. I switch back to the outhole kicker coil test. The signal coming out of U20 pin 3 is dirty. Instead of being a clean Low pulse, it's a Low pulse, but I can see the High LED ever so faintly and the sound out of the .30 cent logic probe speaker sounds distorted.

I switch the pin off/on again and finally the 4 player display gives me the answer I think I've been chasing;

U51 PIA FAILURE

Well shit.

I switch the pin off/on again and again see;

U51 PIA FAILURE

I switch the pin off, unplug it, let it sit, and then plug it in and turn it on again. The error is gone and the pin boots normally. Heh.

I don't have any more time tonight to continue troubleshooting, but I'm guessing this is why my issue seemed so random? I'm hoping the pop bumper is fed off U51 as well because it's still machine gunning in whenever I go into test mode.

#1531 8 years ago

More info;

How's the logic signal at input pin 1 of U20?
LOW when the coil is not in test mode. LOW with a HIGH pulse when the coil is in test mode.

Is your MPU getting a good, spot-on +5V DC power?
pin 4 = 4.886V
pin 5 = 4.886V
pin 6 = 4.886V
pin 8 = -14.97V
pin 9 = 12.27V

All of these measurements, including the logic probe, seem correct to me so I decided to focus on U20. The logic probe behaves oddly whenever I probe pin 3. It just sounds distorted compared to other pins.

The ball release uses the same logic gate so I have started using it for comparison. The ball release uses pin 12 and 13 as the inputs and 11 as the output.

(ball release - with the coil in test)
pin 12 - LOW/HIGH Pulse (clean)*
pin 13 - HIGH (clean)
pin 11 - LOW Pulse (clean)

(outhole kicker - with the coil in test)
pin 1 - LOW/HIGH Pulse (clean)
pin 2 - HIGH Pulse (clean)
pin 3 - LOW/HIGH Pulse (dirty)**

*clean means I am hearing a clean tone from the logic probe and that the LOW/HIGH LEDs on the probe are coming on solid.
**dirty means I am hearing a distorted tone from the logic probe and that the HIGH LED on the probe is flickering, never solid.

To me, this means the logic gate for pin 1, 2, and 3 is faulty. So I went ahead and replaced U20 and then repeated the test. Unfortunately the test results were identical with the new IC in place.

#1533 8 years ago

I get a LOW out of the bases of Q29 and Q33.

I get a LOW out of the base of Q21 and a HIGH out of the base of Q25.

Now this would seem like a problem but it makes sense. Q24 exhibits a HIGH out of its base as well. Q24 is right beside Q25.

Q33 exhibits a LOW out of its base. Q33 is right beside Q32.

U20
pin 3 = 4.471V
pin 6 = 4.840V
pin 8 = 0.281V
pin 11 = 0.283V

Q29 C = 4.842V
Q29 E = 0.26V

Q20 C = 4.84V
Q20 E = 0.00V

Q21 C = 4.843V
Q21 E = 0.00V

Q28 C = 4.84V
Q28 E = 0.00V

SR4 (560 ohm SIP) = 558 on every pin
SR5 (2.7K SIP) = 1.6 on every pin except for pin 6 which was 2.7K
SR6 (560 ohm SIP) = 558 on every pin
SR7 (2.7K SIP) = 1.6 on every pin except for pin 6 which was 2.7K

R48, 49, 50 and 51 all measure 68 ohm.

The values for SR5 and SR7 are low except for pin 6 which is right on the money. However, when compared to each other the readings are identical which makes me think the readings are fine.

Q29E has some voltage leaking out, but it's under .5 volts.

#1535 8 years ago

I will re-check U20 pin3. That might be just a typo.

I've been racking my brain out on this for over a week and I've had you and others helping me out for just as long. The CPU seems good to me. The measurements are off, but the difference is so minuscule that I don't think this is the issue. The pulses for Q32 and Q33 are identical, but one works and the other doesn't. So I decided to go about this a different way. What's the old saying? "The simplest solution is most often correct". The outhole uses SOL1A/C. This is one of the 8 solenoids that goes through the diode sw. board under the PF. So since everything for the coil seems correct (the A side), I decided to look Flasher 1 (the C side). The coil uses a solid brown wire for power. The flasher uses solid orange wire so I traced the orange wire until I found this;

20151011_130212.jpg20151011_130212.jpg

20151011_130328.jpg20151011_130328.jpg

The +28VDC is touching GND. The +28VDC wire must have gotten so hot that it desoldered itself and slipped onto the GND where is soldered itself once I turned off the pin. There is a solid brown and solid orange wire on the snubber board.

I have to run off to my first Thanksgiving dinner, but I believe I have found the culprit. I'll repair it tonight and report back.

#1537 8 years ago

Well that sucks. I thought I was onto something.

I will recheck u20 pin3 when i get home.

#1542 8 years ago

Sorry for monopolizing this thread guys.

U20 (rechecked. in attract mode)
pin 1 = 1.61V
pin 2 = 4.88V
pin 3 = .281V
pin 6 = .280V
pin 8 = .281V
pin 11 =.283V

Measurements for Q29C and E remain the same. I'm not sure why my measurements were off in my original post.

#1544 8 years ago

It is still locking on.

U20 pin1 = .165V
Q33 is still LOW (.005V)
Resistance to GND (game off) = 14.78K
Resistance to GND (game on) = 16.6K

Are you thinking SR7?

Please note: I have 1J19 disconnected because the pop bumper was repeatedly firing whenever I went into test mode. I don't think this matters, but I wanted to mention it.

#1547 8 years ago

Infinte resistance? So I'll see OL on my DMM?

#1549 8 years ago

I see infinite resistance on 1J11-3. I don't see it on 1J11-4. 11J1-4 I see 6.5M. I'm trying to understand why 11J1-4 is not infinite.

#1550 8 years ago

I removed Q33. It tested good *sigh* again. While removing the transistor the solder pad separated from the top of the CPU. Maybe this is the cause of my grief??? The rest of the traces are fine. I buzzed them out using the DMM. Here is a pic of the damage;

20151012_205921.jpg20151012_205921.jpg

20151012_205858.jpg20151012_205858.jpg

I'm not sure how to fix this. The middle solder pad that came off doesn't go anywhere on the top of the board. Underneath the trace goes to J11-1 and buzzes out fine. But the top is not reaching the bottom using the solder pad. The voltage/signal would travel through the transistor pin. Correct?

I'll toss the board in without Q33 now and re-measure the resistance on J11-1...

[EDIT] I'm measuring infinite resistance on J11-1 with the game on now. 2.5M ohm with the game off. If I stick a probe in the broken trace hole I get 10M ohm, but if I hook a piece of wire to the trace on the other side of the board I see OL on the DMM. Q33 is not in the board. It has to be the solder pad. How do I fix this? Do you think this is the source of my issue?

#1552 8 years ago

The bottom of the solder pad is still present and the trace from it to J11-1 is intact. Also, the ring of the eyelet still in the through hole. I checked for continuity between the solder pads on the top of the CPU and there was none. Did the same for the bottom. I will re-insert the transistor as you have described.

I am not a praying man and I don't ask people to pray often, but if owners of F-14 could say a little something to the man upstairs for me I would appreciate it.

[EDIT] Family pictures this evening. Didn't get a chance to work on this. Tomorrow it is!

#1554 8 years ago

Sorry for the delay on this one guys. It was Thanksgiving up here in Canada and we had a long weekend. Then swim lessons on Tuesday and family portraits on Wednesday. I am only getting back to this now, but I have seemingly good news...

... the coil is no longer locked on!!! I replaced Q33 again, and this time folded the middle lead onto the solder trace under the CPU. I still had to cut it, but I left much more leg on it than in my original replacements. I installed the CPU into the backbox for the umpteenth time and left J11 off. I powered on the game and checked the resistant on pin 1. 25M ohms. I was a bit disheartened as I was expecting infinite, but I plugged J11 in and voila! The coil didn't energize. It sat there like a beautiful lump. I rolled a ball down to it and it kicked it over! I nearly ran around the house with glee!

Unfortunately I didn't get to play test it. Remember my machine gunning pop bumper? Well as soon as I hit START the pop bumper started popping. I had to shut things down again. So I'm on to troubleshooting something new now. I'll check the switch stack and then dive deeper.

Thank you very much to everyone that has helped me to this point! wayout you have be extremely patient with me and been an exceptional teacher as I fought my way through this!

On to the pop bumper! After my last issue I doubt this one could be any worse (fingers-crossed).

#1559 8 years ago
Quoted from thall17:

Looking at a nice F-14 though it does not have the dome lights on top. Are those ready available and easy to add?
Thanks

They are not impossible to find, but they are borderline rare. If you are missing the entire metal beacon assembly then be prepared to begin a long search.

#1561 8 years ago
Quoted from Snux:

Well done getting this fixed up, I suspect the pop bumper will be a simpler fix

Maybe simpler to troubleshoot since I just went through a bit of hell. Here we go again...

Problem: The pop bumper begins to machine gun as soon as you hit start or go into test mode.

Troubleshooting: I checked the switch stack and adjusted the gap. No change. Grounded Q69 and the Pop Bumper fires. Issue is on the CPU which makes sense because I have had it in and out of the machine countless times. Took out the logic probe (what a handy tool). U45 pin 8, 9 are the inputs and 10 is the output. 9 is pulsing non-stop high. Not good. U45 pin 9 is fed from U44 pin 20. Pin 20 is pulsing non-stop high/low. U45 pin 20 is fed off U51 pin 5. Pin 5 is pulsing non-stop high/low. When I was troubleshooting an earlier issue I saw "U51 Failure" on the display. I haven't seen that message since, but U51 is definitely not supposed to be rapidly pulsing like this.

Does my troubleshooting make sense? I could use a second opinion.

#1563 8 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

If you saw U51 failure and you also have pulsing when you shouldn't, I would agree with the likelyhood that U51 is flaky.

Well, I'm going off an assumption that it shouldn't be pulsing like that. It's a rapid pulse and none of the other pins on U45 are behaving in this manner.

#1566 8 years ago
Quoted from LongJohns:

When I got my F14 I was getting intermittent PIA error like you had - most of the time it would boot fine (sorry don't remember the actual problem, but different PIA also). Once I replaced the PIA, the problem went away and never had it pop up as an error again.

If I disconnect 1J19 the machine gunning stops. I'm going to look closer at the spoon switch.

#1570 8 years ago
Quoted from Fifty:

If I disconnect 1J19 the machine gunning stops. I'm going to look closer at the spoon switch.

I'm finally getting back to troubleshooting this. Election on Monday, swim lessons for kids on Tuesday... Wednesday begins a new week of troubleshooting.

I checked the resistor on the pop bumper. 100 ohms.
I checked the diode and it came in at 5.6 and OL as it should.

I disconnected the orange-yellow wire off the spoon switch. I thought I would start here because when I was fixing my outhole issue the pop bumper would start machine gunning and I would disconnect 1J19 to get it to stop. So off comes the orange-yellow and I start up a game. Everything is playing fine and the pop bumper starts machine gunning. I turned off the machine. Okay... Seems like It's not the orange-yellow wire.

I unscrewed the entire switch stack from under the PF. Instead of disconnecting the green-yellow wires next I just wrapped electrical tape around the switch contacts. I started playing a game and managed to get multiball started before the pop bumper starts machine gunning again. Since I was in multiball mode I just ignored it and let it continue machine gunning. The game comes first right? So I'm playing multiball and all of a sudden the pop bumper stops. 30 seconds later it pops 5 or 6 times and then stops again. Then it machine guns for a bit and stops. It continues this random pattern even after multiball has ended and a new ball is sitting in the trough.

Well shit...

So my plan now is to connect the orange-yellow back up and see if I can get the machine gunning to happen. Maybe when I was disconnecting in during my outhole troubleshooting I just never had it disconnected long enough or just never had the machine on long enough. I need to narrow down the problem.

Thoughts anyone?

#1572 8 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

There are two switches for the pop bumpers. One that activates it and one for scoring, etc.
I was having a similar problem with my Rollergames. One of my six "special solenoids" was activated-I would disconnect one at a time until the problem stops. Also you can burn your coil out allowing it to fire like that.
There is a good description and explanation here: http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index1.html
Just do a control 4 search for "machine gun"

Thanks for this. Great info. I'll start by disconnecting the pop bumper.

#1588 8 years ago

Does anyone have a logic probe that is willing to buzz out pin 10 and 11 of U49 for me. I'm getting the following in attract mode;

U49
pin 11 - solid HIGH
pin 10 - fast pulsing HIGH

The input is pin 11 is the output is pin 10. My understanding of this IC is that whatever is going into pin 11 should be coming out of pin 10 but that is not happening in my case.

Could someone verify their U49 for me. In attract mode please.

Thank you!

#1593 8 years ago
Quoted from kguenther6:

My F14 is down and out right now. When I get it working again I will be glad to do this but it might be a few days or next week before I can get to it. Hopefully someone else will be able to help out before then.

I feel your pain. My has been down and out for just over a month. I fixed one issue only to have another rear its ugly head. I've been chasing this new issue for over two weeks. Damn life keeps getting in the way of my troubleshooting.

#1597 8 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

I rebuilt the top flippers on my F14 and now the top left is kind of shotgunning. I tried adjusting the switches, but it's either doing this or not working at all. Can something other than a stuck switch cause this?
» YouTube video

Check the EOS gap.

I take it it was working before you rebuilt the flippers? I'm having a similar issue with my pop bumper machine-gunning.

#1600 8 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

OK, so I looked at this coil and compared it to the one on the right-the wiring for the outer lugs had been reversed. My friend had labeled the lugs and the wires, but they were completely opposite of the other coil. Other odd thing was that this coil does not have any diodes on it? That being said it was working before we took apart the flippers to rebuild.
I flipped the wires around to match the coil on the right and now I get nada. I'm guessing I should go back to where we started and go from there.

Photos would help. Please post.

#1607 8 years ago
Quoted from nerdygrrl:

I am out of Diodes so I plan on placing an order from Marco. I just want to wait to see if I need to order a coil too.
I am getting 25V all around on all of my coils and continuity between the lugs. I thought I had found the problem here, took everything out and reflowed, but nothing changed. It's still not shutting off properly. Going to trace my grounds back??
unnamed-7.jpg

You can buy the diodes cheaper from Digikey. Put them on the coil. F-14 does not like it when diodes are missing or fail. I had a two-ball multiball issue that took many months to figure out and it ended up being a diode on the left flipper that had broken off.

You need to clean up that soldering as well. No offence, but it's pretty rough.

Quoted from erak:

Started to put on my new insert decals today.
So far its going good.
I havent done any of the X or K arrow inserts yet.
One rescue target on the left is the new one.
Then the finished product.
CAM00455.jpg
CAM00456.jpg

1445985101364.jpg

Looks great! Did you buy the new insert decals or make them yourself?

#1612 8 years ago
Quoted from Elliott99:

Pins 10 and 11 are both solid high in attract mode on mine. Hope that helps, and sorry it took so long!
Elliott

Shit. I figured as much. Now I have to figure out why U49 is acting stupid. I've already replaced it so it. Hmmm.... Maybe the SR? Feck...

Thank you for checking this.

#1620 8 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

You indicated earlier you were getting a fast pulsing high on the output of U49. The only way this could be happening is if you have a short to another line that is pulsing.

Ya, but the problem will be finding it. I've already used my DMM to see if any of the pins are shorted to each other and buzzed the hell out of the board.

#1623 8 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

The IC could also be shorted internally. If any other pins are doing the same way I would cut the offending pin with micro shears. If you find the pin is still pulsing, the IC is shorted. If you find the disconnected trace is pulsing, you have a short elsewhere.

I have already replaced the IC. I put in a socket. I buzzed out the socket with my DMM and couldn't find a short anywhere. I replaced the IC and the problem remained. I did all this with the board out though. Maybe I'm check for shorts on U49 with the board powered up.

#1626 8 years ago

Thanks Snux. I will definitely pick one of those up. Nifty!

wayout, thanks also. The odd thing about this issue is that it doesn't occur right away. For example, this morning I plugged in the pin and turned it on. I measure the socket where U49 normally sits and I get solid HIGH on both pins 10 and 11. If I check the socket 5 minutes later (once the chips have warmed up) I get the fast pulsing LOW/HIGH on U49 pin 11.

SR20-7, ZR5 and C72 are all fast pulsing LOW/HIGH.

If I take some comparison measurements to the adjacent capacitors and zener diodes I see;

C72 = fast pulsing LOW/HIGH
C71 = solid HIGH
C73 = solid HIGH
C74 = solid HIGH

ZR5 (banded side) = fast pulsing LOW/HIGH
ZR6 (banded side) = solid HIGH
ZR7 (banded side) = solid HIGH

SR-7 = fast pulsing LOW/HIGH
SR-6 = solid HIGH
SR-5 = solid HIGH

When the pin is cold and I plug it in and power it up the pin exhibits no problems. The fast pulsing is gone. It's only after the CPU has warmed up a bit that the problems occur. With this in mind C72 makes the most sense to me. It takes a while for caps to charge so my thinking is that the pin would be fine until that happens.

#1627 8 years ago

FIXED!!! I'll upload pics of what the problem later tonight. In short, it was a short under U49. Thanks everyone very much for the help!

#1631 8 years ago

So here was the problem, under the newly installed U49 socket some of the green must have came off the trace line in-between pins 9 and 10. Remember how I said I saw "U51 Failure" on the display? Well the trace that runs between these two pins goes directly to U51. Here's a picture of the issue, sorry for the crappy photo. Zooming in tight and staying in focus on trace lines for a PCB with a cell phone camera is not something that should normally be attempted.

20151101_112642.jpg20151101_112642.jpg

After everyone here schooled me on what it could possibly be I finally decided to just draw out the entire circuit and mark the pulses down on the hand draw schematic. Once I did that I could visually see the path and it was much easier for me to see that U49 was the only thing that it could be. Here is a view of the inside of my mind (please pardon the notebook it's my 4 year old daughters and she has recently discovered her love of scissors);

20151101_165156.jpg20151101_165156.jpg

Thanks again for all the help everyone. This issue was driving me crazy. I have learned a shit ton from troubleshooting my recent issues. One of which is to keep a calm head. One of which is to throw out my unregulated Weller soldering iron. From now on it's my new Hakko FX-888D or nothing.

#1637 8 years ago

Anyone know where you can get the white nylon PCB stand offs in Flashball's photos? I have a couple that are broken off. These aren't the normal standard ones.

[EDIT] Part number is 20-9521.

#1639 8 years ago

Thanks. Was hoping I wouldn't have to order from Aussieland, but this seems to be the only place that has the offset version.

1 week later
#1671 8 years ago

Looks nice. I've never seen one with a blue display added. I prefer the orange, but it's not bad at all.

2 weeks later
#1702 8 years ago

Sorry to see you go wayout! God speed to you!

#1711 8 years ago

Kind of Sternish, but I like it. Got a wide shot so we can see how it plays with the side rails?

#1713 8 years ago

I not sure about it. I don't dislike it, but I've have to see it in person I think to give it full passing marks.

1 month later
#1765 8 years ago
Quoted from bronco-jon:

Go here and scroll down, you will find some good info there.
C:\Users\user\Pictures\Internet Pinball Machine Database Williams 'F-14 Tomcat'.htm

How is he supposed to remote in to your C: drive?

#1774 8 years ago

You mean the silk screened warning on the back of the backbox? Yellow here. Never seen an orange one.

1 week later
#1787 8 years ago

How much for the bridge board?

BTW, thank you Inkochnito for all your hard work reproducing the Tech Charts, Coil Wraps, and the rest of the stuff on your website.

#1790 8 years ago

[EDIT] Delete. F-14 is a System 11A game.

1 month later
#1819 8 years ago

Averell is there any sort of knob on your volume control? Mine is just the end of the potentiometer.

Does anyone know where to buy the red and black buttons for the menu controls located on the coin door. Mine are missing.

#1821 8 years ago
Quoted from Sheprd:

There are a bunch of knobs on this forum, but I have never seen one on the volume potentiometer of a Williams machine.
I have not seen the red and black buttons sold separately... the whole switch is cheap to replace.

What's the entire thing called??? I want to look it up on Marco.

[EDIT] Is this it?
red one ---- http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7601-4
blk one ---- http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-7601-7

#1823 8 years ago

Nah, I just need the service buttons. I think that's them in my post (#1821).

#1825 8 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

Can you even put the volume on the service buttons on an F14 ? Would be a lot handier for sure.

I'm sure it could be done. I'm just not the one to try to figure it out.

My two questions were not related, I was just curious about the volume control and then remembered I was missing the caps for the service buttons.

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