Just want to jump in and join the club! I just picked up my F-14. I owned one several years ago, should have never sold it. Anyway, I am looking for the 3 diverter wireform ramps. Mainly Part number 12-6712, the center wireform. I have found the other 2 on Ebay, but thought I would check here first, and buy them as a set. I would also consider buying the whole set of 5 wireform ramps if you have them.
Thanks!

Just sent him an email. Thanks heni1977

Afternoon folks. Ok, on the backboard of my F-14, there are 6 flashers in a straight line, with red covers on them. What's the best way to get to those bulbs to change them? I lifted the playfield and felt behind it, and it feels like a circuit board or a cover back there. There has to be a trick to it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Chris

Thank you @Waderade812, I will go check it out and see if mine is like that. Looks like a PIA to get at!

Ok, its like yours, with wingnuts. I'm going to tackle this Saturday, when I have daylight and time hahahahaha. When I lift the playfield all the way, there's no way I'll be able to do it. There's very little room between that board and the bottom of the cabinet when in that position. Looks like it'll be easier if I do it with the playfield at an angle. I'll need to most likely remove that little harness strap so I can pull the board away far enough to unplug it, and more importantly, be able to see when I plug it back in. Going to put LEDs back there so I don't have this issue again. (The center 2 are burned out) Going to need to use a mirror no matter what.

And again, thank you for your help!

Thanks for the tip!!!

Thanks @Dallas_Pin. That's what I'm reading, and I believe I'll stick with incandescent. Don't want to make it s miserable game.

Thanks @heni1977, that's an idea! Also, still looking for Part number 12-6712, the center wireform ramp for the diverter assembly. Haven't had any luck finding one yet.

That's pretty cool !!!

Good Morning. Well, I tried to replace those two flashers, and actually pulling that board like you said Waderade812 was pretty easy. Unfortunately, the bulbs are good, and the traces look good. I visually checked all the resistor boards for broken leads as suggested by GRUMPY and saw no broken leads. Can anyone tell me which resistor board(s) is for lights 03C and 04C? I read thru a lot of the posts for these flashers being out and in looking at the matrix on the 1st page of the manual, well, like any of the other matrices, they leave me scratching my head. I will try to apply the technique of jumpering the two larger resistors once I find out which board, to determine whether it's a resistor problem or a diode problem. Now, one question. Should all those resistors have continuity? If so, that would be an easy check without having to jumper and then turn the machine back on. Lastly, if I ever do decide to go LED on the flashers, I understand that I must either snip off the smaller warming resistors, on the outsides of all resistor boards, leaving the two in the center intact, OR unsolder the ground wires from all the resistor boards. If I do the un-soldering, do I un-solder the ground wires from both sides of the board? I've noticed a couple boards have the ground wires soldered on both sides. Enough for this morning, I'm at work, and won't be able to try any suggestions until tonight, so please be patient with me.
Thanks,
Chris

Thank you very much GRUMPY for the Matrix diagrams. I did all the lamp tests yesterday, and it does appear that all the playfield lights are working I did not see anactual flasher test, but I'm going to go thru the diagnostics again because there has to be. Currently in the backboard, there are only incandescent bulbs. Was I correct in the thought about continuity in the resistors?

Also, I bought a couple of these from K's Arcade this morning in preparation

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Ok, @grumpy , I looked at a copy of the manual and saw where the flashers on the playfield are that are tied together with the ones on the backboard and YES, those are working. I remember them working when we were playing yesterday.

Thank you sir. I have some work to do tonight, and I will repost in the morning how it comes out. I will do the solenoid test first, to verify the playfield flashers are actually working. Thanks again! Oh, I looked on your profile and saw you grew up in L.A. I grew up in the San Fernando Valley, in Reseda. I graduated HS in '73. Anyway, Talk to you in a bit. Thanks again!

Ok, well it really looks like I have my work cut out for me. In doing the somenoid test, it appears 03C is not working on the back board, or the playfield. Will check resisitor boards
04C is not working on the backboard, but IS working on the playfield. Will check for cracked solder joints, bad bulb socket or bad bulb on the back board pcb. Flasher 07C nothing anywhere, but I recall a Service Bulletin about that, will check that out. And either 9 or 10 isn't working. 2 out of the 4 flashers begind the translite arent working. Whew!

Thank you sir. I really appreciate your help

Good Afternoon @GRUMPY. Took care of most of my issues. The Flasher #10 issue was a cracked solder joint. My Flasher 3c turned out to be a bad resistor and the small warming resistor next to it. Both register as open when checking with my meter. I received my new boards the other day, and will be installing them this coming week. My question is this, I have never done this before. My soldering skills aren't too awful, and I think I should be able to get thru this. But having to do this on the underside of the playfield without an extra set of hands is intimidating for my first time, without an extra couple feet of wire to get it in a more confortable position. So, is there anything wrong with soldering leads with insulated quick connects to the board while on my bench, then just removing the wires one at a time from the old board, putting connectors on those wires, then installing the new board in its place and plugging it in?
Thanks,
Chris

Ok, I'll give it a try. The board is brand new, with just a tiny hole where the wires are going to go, so I think I should put a small glob of solder on those holes first.

Ok, so I finished my powdercoat project on my F-14. I powdercoated the side rails, lockbar, shooter rod housing, legs, and all 5 of the wireform ramps in a red white and blue patriotic theme, which goes well with the game. Since there are 5 ramps, I couldnt evenly split the red, white. and blue theme, so I took the longest ramp, on the right side which runs around the top, and powdercoated half red, half white, so the upkick ramp is powdercoated blue. The two-tone ramp color change is covered by plastics, even though its not necessary because the transition is sharp on even. So, after all that, here is my question. I bought a full set of ramps, new lockbar, side rails, and legs, so I could powdercoat these items without having a huge downtime from palying my machine. I now want to sell the originals. Do I try to sell them as a set, sell them individually, or powdercoat them exactly as I have my own, and sell them as a set, or as a set with exchange parts? What are your opinions?

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Ok, Thank you guys. I will powdercoat the parts and sell them as a set. I appreciate your input.

Good Afternoon. I had posted an issue I was having with the 6 flashers at the back of the playfield several months ago, and with the gracious help from @Grumpy, and several others, I was able to fix them by tracking down, a couple of bad resistors, and replacing those resisitor boards. Which brings me to today. 2 quit working again, and I've determined the lamp sockets in that back circuit board are bad. I decided to replace all the sockets with new ones, so I removed them from the board then started looking for new ones. I cant find any exactly like the originals. On the originals, there was no mounting bracket, and the terminals pointed straight down and were soldered directly to the board. I was able to find the ones in the attached pictures, but Im curious what you guys who know what you're doing would do. Would you bend the terminals down, and snip them to a thinner width to fit in the holes in the board, and solder them in? Or do I need to find the correct lamp socket. Unfortunately, the originals have been tossed. Nobody has replacement boards, and I can't find a used one.

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Unfortunately, they got tossed. I left them near some things that were headed to the trash, and they got tossed. However, the fiber insulators were cracked and pieces were falling out.

That's a great idea! Thank you @Grumpy!

Thank you for the offer cletus , but I got her up and running! I really appreciate it though.

Actually @Grumpy, that's a yes and no hahahaha. I got a board from a gentleman that used to make these boards up with 906 wedge connectors mounted on the new board, with the connector relocated to the back of the board. Im doing my best to improve soldering skills and try to learn to do as much as possible, so I'm taking my original board, and am in the process of attaching the new #89 sockets on the board. Except rather than epoxy, I got a solid carbide drill, and am drilling mounting holes in the board, making sure I'm not anywhere near traces, and will ise the bracket thats on the socket. The Im going to use the idea of soldering wires to the little connections, then to the traces. He contacted me and said he had a board and I jumped on it. Whenever I get the opportunity to improve soldering skills, I'm all over it. But, I was kind of afraid to do it without a backup plan, and he had one

I was also a bit afraid the epoxy would get on the end of the center plunger connection, and make it immoble.

Absolutely! Will do!

Ok, so I follwed ya'lls advice, and powdercoated my otiginal wireform ramps red, white, and blue to match the ones on my F14. So, my question is, what should I ask, or are there any offers?

I did mine in Red, White and Blue. Love them!

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I bought an extra set of ramps when mine were out being powdercoated. When mine came back. I the extra set powdercoated the same as mine because someone wanted them. Then the buyer flaked out on me. So I have an extra set.