(Topic ID: 66172)

F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.

By Hellfire

6 years ago

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  • 4,079 posts
  • 322 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by GRUMPY
  • Topic is favorited by 132 Pinsiders


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#2211 2 years ago
Quoted from aerobert:

averell pm me the manual. I know german a bit.
Gave my F14 some TLC this evening. Tried LEDs from China with a single 5050 SMD cold white. Results are excellent! I was afraid the smd would not spread the light enough but its very good. The six controlled lights are also china made cointaker style with a white dome. These are super!
Switched to a clear bumper cap with a slow colour changer under. Spreads the colours very good. Also put in Transparent silicon slingshot rubbers, superbands and some lexan protectors. And finally I put in the two missing flashers up top but I haven't wired it up yet. And lots of electric tape underneath on every switch. Lol

I would suggest Blue LEDs for the right column of bonus inserts, mine were completely faded like yours and some blue LEDs really brought them back. Just a suggestion.

4 weeks later
#2288 2 years ago
Quoted from Samuelson3:

Hey everyone, just picked up my first pinball machine and it is a F14 tomcat. My game has the factory highscores set on it, and I was just wondering how it can save my score since my scores are lower then the factory's. thanks.

Congrats on your first game!! You would need to go into the settings and change the backup high scores to a really low level and then whatever you score will then be the high score. FWIW I think most people leave the factory scores until they beat them, which honestly shouldn't be too hard after playing it for awhile. Instructions for changing settings are in the manual you can find on IPDB if you don't have one.

#2292 2 years ago
Quoted from Samuelson3:

Thank you. I did try to change the high scores according to my manual but the scores I set didn't save and it put the factory high scores back on.

Are you getting an Adjust Failure or Factory Adjust error when you power up the game, are the rest of your settings saved? I've never changed mine but if you follow the process, have good batteries & connections they should save just like any other changes you make to the settings.

#2295 2 years ago

You probably have to do a reset on the high scores to make the backup ones take effect, didn't think about that before.

#2322 2 years ago

We need a "Grumpy help me with my System 11" thread.

1 month later
#2421 2 years ago
Quoted from Schabs81:

Anyone know where ican get full jet bumper switch? Got one a long time back but wasnt same as ome . Also not my machine a buddys.

Don't have my manual handy or I'd look up the part number but it should be available here: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=102&pg=1

2 months later
#2524 2 years ago
Quoted from EEE:

I just jumped into this club as well. Is there an adjustment to limit the Jackpot to make it more balanced in a tournament?
Or is it possible to increase the number of Landings to a very high level before a Jackpot is awarded?
Added 9 days ago: It seems that there is no Tournament setting or other way to limit the progressive jackpot or to make it more difficult to acheive directly. Just the usual game settings.

I know High Speed has an unofficial (hacked) "tournament" ROM available that fixes the jackpot at a set value (250K IIRC), my guess is the same thing is out there for F14. Just have to find someone who has it and will send it to you to burn.

2 months later
#2711 2 years ago
Quoted from captainadam_21:

I'm going to look at a F-14 this weekend. Is there anything in particular to look at that is problematic?

Beacons, although it's not as bad as it used to be since someone is making repro assemblies, but still expensive if all the parts aren't there.

#2733 2 years ago
Quoted from SkaterVet:

Does anyone know how to configure this remote batter to work with F14? The instructions say to put the red wire up in the far right and the black wire down on the far left. Leave the middle battery slot on the board open. When I do this, my machine resorts to factory defaults and gives and Adjust Error.

If you clear the error, play a game then turn it off and back on do you get the Adjust Error? If so test the voltage at the board where the battery contacts are.

#2743 2 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

Here are some pics of the finished project with new repro playfield and plastics and cabinet decals and LED lighting with OCD LED controller installed. Also new Rottendog MPU board and power source and Pinball Pro Speakers.

Remind me where the cab decals came from please?

4 weeks later
#2836 2 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

Yes, very tight and with lock washers. The entire switch stack is brand new. The skirt pin is centered and not pressing but just touching. I used the flashlight from above trick. I know it's the contacts spreading out. I just can't believe the thick support leaf is not holding steady, but it isn't.
Also FYI, I originally bought the pop bumper switch stack assembly from Pinball Life and it is junk. I later bought the one from Marco Specialties and it's much better quality (same size as original). The Pinball Life one is shorter in length and height and also has a black spoon which sucks for centering skirt pin (can't see through it).

It sounds like the adjustment tab is not as strong as it should be. Instead of bending the whole thing forward to make the contacts tighter try to use a pair of small needle-nose pliers and bend the end of the adjustment tab forward at an angle. This may help to maintain a more consistent gap.

3 months later
#3042 1 year ago
Quoted from shirkle:

Adding to my growing list of minor issues....today it won’t start a game. Boots fine, but won’t eject a ball to start a game. I have 4 balls in it and all of the trough switches register in the switch test.

Does it have any credits or are you sure it's set to free play?

1 month later
#3140 1 year ago
Quoted from CoitusMysterioso:

I just purchased an F-14 Tomcat as my first SS Pin. I've been wanting one of these or a High Speed and this one came up locally a couple of weeks ago.
Its in good condition with very minimal PF wear and only a little mylar bubbling over a couple inserts. Currently its completely stock but I am planning to go fully LED within the next few weeks. I am also contemplating installing a PF protector but haven't decided on that one yet.
Man I love this game!!! It makes all of my EM machines feel super slow!

My concern with the PF protector would be removing the mylar first which is likely to pull up the inserts or other art-work, I don't think I'd put one over the mylar. Fun game and very anti-EM like other than it can have some short ball times. Good luck!!

#3151 1 year ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

Remember to use warm white lights if under a colored insert if you want to maintain accurate insert color. Also be sure to use warm white frosted above play field if it is really exposed to your eyes. Cool white is hard on my eyes unless under an insert or hidden from direct view. I also recommend using warm white flashers (if you’re going with led flashers you need to remove warming resistors). Warm white looks like incandescent bulbs. Of course blue frosted GI looks great under blue plastics and red and blue leds look great under same color inserts. Comet is good! You will def get ghosting if not using a led controller, so if not, get non ghosting leds for all cpu controlled lights. You have to decide before dropping the cash.

I agree with most of this but if your blue arrow inserts are faded like many are on F14 some blue LEDs will bring it right back to life.

7 months later
#3515 1 year ago

I encountered an odd situation last night when fixing my F14 that resides at my sister's house (I'm out of space). None of the ejects, diverters or the ball popper would fire in game or in test. Having seen this before I knew that the 2.5 amp slow-blow fuse was going to be blown and it was. I expected a shorted drive transistor but they all tested fine so I put another fuse in it and it popped immediately when I powered the game back on though I didn't hear anything firing. I decided to jumper the fuse very quickly to see what was locked on and burning the fuse but I got nothing, no sparks, no coil or flasher stuck on, nothing. I thought maybe it blew the 4 amp on the other side of the rectifier but it was fine. So I put another fuse back in it and everything worked fine, played five or six games with multiball and the kickback firing and everything continued to work just fine. I have no idea what was blowing that fuse but apparently a little extra current through whatever it was fixed it.

#3517 1 year ago
Quoted from BigLebowski:

did you use the exact same fuses each time? I had a similar effect with ceramic fuses, but since I put in a regular fuse everything is fine

Yep, glass slo-blos all from the same package.

2 months later
#3585 11 months ago
Quoted from GoneFishinLvMsg:

OK, it has all four balls and I got switch 13 working. It still starts a new game after the previous game ends. What happens is it will start the match sequence, but restart before it completes. Any locked balls are not ejected. It just sorta forgets about them until you do a reset. It does not do a reset on its own; it just starts a new game. The issue with it starting a new game any time a ball is locked and the next one is plunged seems to be gone, however.
In my 12 years of owning pins I've never seen anything like this. It almost seems like corrupt software. It has the original ROMs, so I will replace them unless someone has a better idea. The pin seems to have been stored in a very humid environment based on the amount of mildew I'm seeing and a little bit of delamination of the backbox wood. Like it sat in a garage with no temperature control for a long time. Perhaps this damaged the ROMs? The MPU board was repaired and certified good by CoinOp Cauldron, so I hope I can rule that out.
Kinda stumped on this one. I'm anxious to rip this filthy thing apart and clean it, but I want to get it working right first.

Have you put it through a thorough switch test to be sure you don't have a matrix issue? I'd also try a doing a factory restore if there are no problems in the switch matrix.

1 week later
#3624 10 months ago
Quoted from Waderade812:

Color matched leds under the inserts makes them so much bolder.

This is especially true for the Blue ones that are almost always faded on the original PFs.

1 week later
#3631 10 months ago
Quoted from Elliott99:

Hi, what exactly am I looking for? Sometimes a ball will bounce the wire gate open from the outside, and enter an already occupied eject. I can see what appear to be a broken bit of spring steel held by 2 screws, presumably the "springs" listed as 01-8615 and 01-8651 in the manual, can anyone post a picture of an unbroken spring, or does anyone know if they are available?
[quoted image]

It has been a while since I dealt with that part of the game but I'm pretty sure there are no springs on them. The gate should have a bend at the end that prevents from over-travelling and sticking up, that is most likely broken off the end of yours and you need to replace the actual gate. They are different for the left and right.

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#3635 10 months ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Play field restoration: complete. It really deserves a new plastic set, but the originals are decent, so they’re OK until I scrape together the $ for a repro set.
Every insert is a replacement, lots and lots of paint repair, a ton of water slide decals, 3 coats of clear, the works.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]


2 weeks later
#3693 10 months ago

They did one run a couple years ago so if you look / ask around you may be able to find someone who has decided not to do the swap / sold the game / etc. willing to sell.

1 week later
#3703 9 months ago
Quoted from shirkle:

Ball popper issues again....
The ball popper coil won’t fire. The fuse tests fine and I replaced it anyway. Passes switch test, but not the coil test. All other switches associated with the ball popper’s transistor (Q44) test fine in the switch edge test, so I don’t think it’s a transistor issue.
Any ideas?

Use a jumper to very briefly ground the tab of the drive transistor and see if that fires the coil, if it does the transistor is most likely bad, if not you have a different problem. I don't remember if the ball popper is dedicated or if it's switched with a flasher via a snubber board, if it is shared and a flasher fires when the ball popper should then you need to start at the snubber board.

#3705 9 months ago
Quoted from shirkle:

Here’s a twist...
I left F14 on for about 5 or 6 hours before noticing the problem. Usually I turn it on, play a few games and turn it off.
This morning I turned it on after being off all night and the ball popper worked as it should.
So, what does that indicate? Think I have a power supply issue maybe?
I ordered a bunch of the driver transistors just in case. I’ll install that this weekend.

Could be a bad solder joint that fails when hot / warm or it could be a bad driver transistor that doesn't like to be warm anymore.

6 months later
#3917 86 days ago
Quoted from Shabazz18:

F-14 Tomcat with no displays. It would boot and play fine with display unplugged. 5 flashes with it plugged in on the diag LED followed by 10 flashes of the reset LED.
Replaced shorted 6557 with new 15031 as per the online guide, and installed a temporary 0.25a breaker since I didn't have a fuse. Powered on and immediately smoked something in the upper right corner on the main board. I have ~95vac at the fuse holder. Nothing looks burnt where the smoke came from.
It now doesn't boot at all even though the LEDs are normal (with display disconnected). Any guidance is appreciated. Would like to not have to call in the professional.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Are all your other test point voltages within range? I'd suggest you start a thread on this in the SS Tech section and you'll probably get Grumpy and some of the other Sys 11 gurus to help you out with it.

#3920 86 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

He installed the wrong transistor. He should have installed a 15030. I'm not sure what else is damaged too.

Ah yes, the old PNP'd when you really should have NPN'd!

#3934 83 days ago
Quoted from chadryan44:

Good Morning F-14 family! While I'm well versed in arcade tech, I'm still a little green with Pinball troubleshooting. Hoping you've had a similar issue that I am and can tell me where to start.
From a cold start, my F-14 plays great! After playing for half an hour (give or take), the pin shuts down. It doesn't matter where I am in the game, and there's no nudging of the table when I play. If I try to immediately power cycle the pin, it will not work. If I walk away for a minute and come back, it plays like a cold start (plays fine) and the cycle starts over.
Any ideas where to start chasing this down? Power supply?

Most likely the 5VDC power supply.

#3943 81 days ago

I think those are just telling you those two switches haven't been triggered in a while, probably nothing to do with the move at all. Just go into switch tests and hit those two switches and you'll probably see they aren't working properly, probably easy fixes on both especially compared to all the work you've already done.

3 weeks later
#4022 58 days ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Here is an example

I'd use the diode and jumper method to find out if the problem is on the board or on the playfield then go from there. Good luck!

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