(Topic ID: 66172)

F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.

By Hellfire

10 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

19 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #91 Insert color list Posted by jodini (10 years ago)

Post #98 Video - Add red flashers back to light show. Posted by Patofnaud (10 years ago)

Post #163 Technical Sheet - Matrix, etc. Posted by Snux (10 years ago)

Post #205 Speaker Panel - Early model= glue Posted by IceCreamMan (10 years ago)

Post #406 Pop bumper cap replacement. Posted by Fifty (9 years ago)

Post #466 Bulletproof - rectifier fuses Posted by Snux (9 years ago)

Post #477 Removing warming resistors Posted by Jumping-Box (9 years ago)

Post #513 Cliffy Flipper Frames Posted by Xenon75 (9 years ago)

Post #569 How to increase Bonus Posted by wayout440 (9 years ago)

Post #747 Pinball Cards Posted by agodfrey (9 years ago)


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#2211 7 years ago
Quoted from aerobert:

averell pm me the manual. I know german a bit.
Gave my F14 some TLC this evening. Tried LEDs from China with a single 5050 SMD cold white. Results are excellent! I was afraid the smd would not spread the light enough but its very good. The six controlled lights are also china made cointaker style with a white dome. These are super!
Switched to a clear bumper cap with a slow colour changer under. Spreads the colours very good. Also put in Transparent silicon slingshot rubbers, superbands and some lexan protectors. And finally I put in the two missing flashers up top but I haven't wired it up yet. And lots of electric tape underneath on every switch. Lol

I would suggest Blue LEDs for the right column of bonus inserts, mine were completely faded like yours and some blue LEDs really brought them back. Just a suggestion.

4 weeks later
#2288 7 years ago
Quoted from Samuelson3:

Hey everyone, just picked up my first pinball machine and it is a F14 tomcat. My game has the factory highscores set on it, and I was just wondering how it can save my score since my scores are lower then the factory's. thanks.

Congrats on your first game!! You would need to go into the settings and change the backup high scores to a really low level and then whatever you score will then be the high score. FWIW I think most people leave the factory scores until they beat them, which honestly shouldn't be too hard after playing it for awhile. Instructions for changing settings are in the manual you can find on IPDB if you don't have one.

#2292 7 years ago
Quoted from Samuelson3:

Thank you. I did try to change the high scores according to my manual but the scores I set didn't save and it put the factory high scores back on.

Are you getting an Adjust Failure or Factory Adjust error when you power up the game, are the rest of your settings saved? I've never changed mine but if you follow the process, have good batteries & connections they should save just like any other changes you make to the settings.

#2295 7 years ago

You probably have to do a reset on the high scores to make the backup ones take effect, didn't think about that before.

#2322 7 years ago

We need a "Grumpy help me with my System 11" thread.

1 month later
#2421 6 years ago
Quoted from Schabs81:

Anyone know where ican get full jet bumper switch? Got one a long time back but wasnt same as ome . Also not my machine a buddys.

Don't have my manual handy or I'd look up the part number but it should be available here: http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=catalog&parent=102&pg=1

2 months later
#2524 6 years ago
Quoted from EEE:

I just jumped into this club as well. Is there an adjustment to limit the Jackpot to make it more balanced in a tournament?
Or is it possible to increase the number of Landings to a very high level before a Jackpot is awarded?
Added 9 days ago: It seems that there is no Tournament setting or other way to limit the progressive jackpot or to make it more difficult to acheive directly. Just the usual game settings.

I know High Speed has an unofficial (hacked) "tournament" ROM available that fixes the jackpot at a set value (250K IIRC), my guess is the same thing is out there for F14. Just have to find someone who has it and will send it to you to burn.

2 months later
#2711 6 years ago
Quoted from captainadam_21:

I'm going to look at a F-14 this weekend. Is there anything in particular to look at that is problematic?

Beacons, although it's not as bad as it used to be since someone is making repro assemblies, but still expensive if all the parts aren't there.

#2733 6 years ago
Quoted from SkaterVet:

Does anyone know how to configure this remote batter to work with F14? The instructions say to put the red wire up in the far right and the black wire down on the far left. Leave the middle battery slot on the board open. When I do this, my machine resorts to factory defaults and gives and Adjust Error.

If you clear the error, play a game then turn it off and back on do you get the Adjust Error? If so test the voltage at the board where the battery contacts are.

#2743 6 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

Here are some pics of the finished project with new repro playfield and plastics and cabinet decals and LED lighting with OCD LED controller installed. Also new Rottendog MPU board and power source and Pinball Pro Speakers.

Remind me where the cab decals came from please?

4 weeks later
#2836 6 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

Yes, very tight and with lock washers. The entire switch stack is brand new. The skirt pin is centered and not pressing but just touching. I used the flashlight from above trick. I know it's the contacts spreading out. I just can't believe the thick support leaf is not holding steady, but it isn't.
Also FYI, I originally bought the pop bumper switch stack assembly from Pinball Life and it is junk. I later bought the one from Marco Specialties and it's much better quality (same size as original). The Pinball Life one is shorter in length and height and also has a black spoon which sucks for centering skirt pin (can't see through it).

It sounds like the adjustment tab is not as strong as it should be. Instead of bending the whole thing forward to make the contacts tighter try to use a pair of small needle-nose pliers and bend the end of the adjustment tab forward at an angle. This may help to maintain a more consistent gap.

3 months later
#3042 6 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

Adding to my growing list of minor issues....today it won’t start a game. Boots fine, but won’t eject a ball to start a game. I have 4 balls in it and all of the trough switches register in the switch test.

Does it have any credits or are you sure it's set to free play?

1 month later
#3140 6 years ago
Quoted from CoitusMysterioso:

I just purchased an F-14 Tomcat as my first SS Pin. I've been wanting one of these or a High Speed and this one came up locally a couple of weeks ago.
Its in good condition with very minimal PF wear and only a little mylar bubbling over a couple inserts. Currently its completely stock but I am planning to go fully LED within the next few weeks. I am also contemplating installing a PF protector but haven't decided on that one yet.
Man I love this game!!! It makes all of my EM machines feel super slow!

My concern with the PF protector would be removing the mylar first which is likely to pull up the inserts or other art-work, I don't think I'd put one over the mylar. Fun game and very anti-EM like other than it can have some short ball times. Good luck!!

#3151 6 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

Remember to use warm white lights if under a colored insert if you want to maintain accurate insert color. Also be sure to use warm white frosted above play field if it is really exposed to your eyes. Cool white is hard on my eyes unless under an insert or hidden from direct view. I also recommend using warm white flashers (if you’re going with led flashers you need to remove warming resistors). Warm white looks like incandescent bulbs. Of course blue frosted GI looks great under blue plastics and red and blue leds look great under same color inserts. Comet is good! You will def get ghosting if not using a led controller, so if not, get non ghosting leds for all cpu controlled lights. You have to decide before dropping the cash.

I agree with most of this but if your blue arrow inserts are faded like many are on F14 some blue LEDs will bring it right back to life.

7 months later
#3515 5 years ago

I encountered an odd situation last night when fixing my F14 that resides at my sister's house (I'm out of space). None of the ejects, diverters or the ball popper would fire in game or in test. Having seen this before I knew that the 2.5 amp slow-blow fuse was going to be blown and it was. I expected a shorted drive transistor but they all tested fine so I put another fuse in it and it popped immediately when I powered the game back on though I didn't hear anything firing. I decided to jumper the fuse very quickly to see what was locked on and burning the fuse but I got nothing, no sparks, no coil or flasher stuck on, nothing. I thought maybe it blew the 4 amp on the other side of the rectifier but it was fine. So I put another fuse back in it and everything worked fine, played five or six games with multiball and the kickback firing and everything continued to work just fine. I have no idea what was blowing that fuse but apparently a little extra current through whatever it was fixed it.

#3517 5 years ago
Quoted from BigLebowski:

did you use the exact same fuses each time? I had a similar effect with ceramic fuses, but since I put in a regular fuse everything is fine

Yep, glass slo-blos all from the same package.

2 months later
#3585 5 years ago
Quoted from GoneFishinLvMsg:

OK, it has all four balls and I got switch 13 working. It still starts a new game after the previous game ends. What happens is it will start the match sequence, but restart before it completes. Any locked balls are not ejected. It just sorta forgets about them until you do a reset. It does not do a reset on its own; it just starts a new game. The issue with it starting a new game any time a ball is locked and the next one is plunged seems to be gone, however.
In my 12 years of owning pins I've never seen anything like this. It almost seems like corrupt software. It has the original ROMs, so I will replace them unless someone has a better idea. The pin seems to have been stored in a very humid environment based on the amount of mildew I'm seeing and a little bit of delamination of the backbox wood. Like it sat in a garage with no temperature control for a long time. Perhaps this damaged the ROMs? The MPU board was repaired and certified good by CoinOp Cauldron, so I hope I can rule that out.
Kinda stumped on this one. I'm anxious to rip this filthy thing apart and clean it, but I want to get it working right first.

Have you put it through a thorough switch test to be sure you don't have a matrix issue? I'd also try a doing a factory restore if there are no problems in the switch matrix.

1 week later
#3624 5 years ago
Quoted from Waderade812:

Color matched leds under the inserts makes them so much bolder.

This is especially true for the Blue ones that are almost always faded on the original PFs.

1 week later
#3631 5 years ago
Quoted from Elliott99:

Hi, what exactly am I looking for? Sometimes a ball will bounce the wire gate open from the outside, and enter an already occupied eject. I can see what appear to be a broken bit of spring steel held by 2 screws, presumably the "springs" listed as 01-8615 and 01-8651 in the manual, can anyone post a picture of an unbroken spring, or does anyone know if they are available?
Thanks,
Elliott.
[quoted image]

It has been a while since I dealt with that part of the game but I'm pretty sure there are no springs on them. The gate should have a bend at the end that prevents from over-travelling and sticking up, that is most likely broken off the end of yours and you need to replace the actual gate. They are different for the left and right.

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#3635 5 years ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

Play field restoration: complete. It really deserves a new plastic set, but the originals are decent, so they’re OK until I scrape together the $ for a repro set.
Every insert is a replacement, lots and lots of paint repair, a ton of water slide decals, 3 coats of clear, the works.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Impressive!!

2 weeks later
#3693 5 years ago

They did one run a couple years ago so if you look / ask around you may be able to find someone who has decided not to do the swap / sold the game / etc. willing to sell.

1 week later
#3703 5 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

Ball popper issues again....
The ball popper coil won’t fire. The fuse tests fine and I replaced it anyway. Passes switch test, but not the coil test. All other switches associated with the ball popper’s transistor (Q44) test fine in the switch edge test, so I don’t think it’s a transistor issue.
Any ideas?

Use a jumper to very briefly ground the tab of the drive transistor and see if that fires the coil, if it does the transistor is most likely bad, if not you have a different problem. I don't remember if the ball popper is dedicated or if it's switched with a flasher via a snubber board, if it is shared and a flasher fires when the ball popper should then you need to start at the snubber board.

#3705 5 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

Here’s a twist...
I left F14 on for about 5 or 6 hours before noticing the problem. Usually I turn it on, play a few games and turn it off.
This morning I turned it on after being off all night and the ball popper worked as it should.
So, what does that indicate? Think I have a power supply issue maybe?
I ordered a bunch of the driver transistors just in case. I’ll install that this weekend.

Could be a bad solder joint that fails when hot / warm or it could be a bad driver transistor that doesn't like to be warm anymore.

6 months later
#3917 4 years ago
Quoted from Shabazz18:

F-14 Tomcat with no displays. It would boot and play fine with display unplugged. 5 flashes with it plugged in on the diag LED followed by 10 flashes of the reset LED.
Replaced shorted 6557 with new 15031 as per the online guide, and installed a temporary 0.25a breaker since I didn't have a fuse. Powered on and immediately smoked something in the upper right corner on the main board. I have ~95vac at the fuse holder. Nothing looks burnt where the smoke came from.
It now doesn't boot at all even though the LEDs are normal (with display disconnected). Any guidance is appreciated. Would like to not have to call in the professional.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Are all your other test point voltages within range? I'd suggest you start a thread on this in the SS Tech section and you'll probably get GRUMPY and some of the other Sys 11 gurus to help you out with it.

#3920 4 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

He installed the wrong transistor. He should have installed a 15030. I'm not sure what else is damaged too.

Ah yes, the old PNP'd when you really should have NPN'd!

#3934 4 years ago
Quoted from chadryan44:

Good Morning F-14 family! While I'm well versed in arcade tech, I'm still a little green with Pinball troubleshooting. Hoping you've had a similar issue that I am and can tell me where to start.
From a cold start, my F-14 plays great! After playing for half an hour (give or take), the pin shuts down. It doesn't matter where I am in the game, and there's no nudging of the table when I play. If I try to immediately power cycle the pin, it will not work. If I walk away for a minute and come back, it plays like a cold start (plays fine) and the cycle starts over.
Any ideas where to start chasing this down? Power supply?

Most likely the 5VDC power supply.

#3943 4 years ago

I think those are just telling you those two switches haven't been triggered in a while, probably nothing to do with the move at all. Just go into switch tests and hit those two switches and you'll probably see they aren't working properly, probably easy fixes on both especially compared to all the work you've already done.

3 weeks later
#4022 4 years ago
Quoted from northvibe:

Here is an example

I'd use the diode and jumper method to find out if the problem is on the board or on the playfield then go from there. Good luck!

2 months later
#4084 4 years ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Any particular reason why you'd want the 555s? Over the years I've had far less trouble with the bayonet style bulb sockets than the 555 sockets. Id assume just preference for ease of changing them out?

I think the repro playfields are dimpled for individual sockets, probably not a big deal but something to be aware of.

1 month later
#4176 4 years ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Quick question on the gate to the right of the pop.. mine was completely destroyed, and installed backwards, so I removed it and did my best attempt at bending a new piece (temporarily) but couldn't actually even get it installed except backwards.. is there some trick to installing the damn things?!

Are you sure you don't have the right gate installed in the left?

2 months later
#4277 3 years ago
Quoted from fisherdaman:

Hey Gang, having an issue. My game starts up but when you plunge the ball it goes up drops into the first lock area, instead of firing it out it acts as if the ball drained and moves onto the next ball. I replaced the 4amp fuse at F2 to no avail. Any other recommendations?
[quoted image]

Does it ever eject the ball out of the lock spot? Does that coil fire when it should during solenoid test mode?

#4286 3 years ago
Quoted from BrewNinja:

Mine has light boards also for the arrow inserts.

It's not that unusual at all, I'm not sure when they switched over but there are plenty examples of both in the wild.

1 month later
#4375 3 years ago
Quoted from fabsj82:

Before I source everything separately. Would anyone happen to have the whole center rotating assembly for sale?
[quoted image]

https://www.tiltedpinball.com/tilted-pinball-shop/f-14-beacon/

1 month later
#4453 3 years ago
Quoted from bowtech:

Thank you very much, 2 questions, where did you aquire the transistor? And any shot of sharing a picture of where that is?

Before you go changing transistors make sure it's not just a broken wire at one of the switches in that column, remembering that they are not necessarily wired in in the order they are shown in the matrix. Trace that Green-Grey wire between all the switches in the column using a meter if possible because sometime the break can be very hard to see. A quick test is to see if any other switch in that column registers in switch test, if they do it's not the transistor.

#4457 3 years ago
Quoted from bowtech:

I think you're on to something with the transistor....
[quoted image]

Shattered, shadoobie!

#4460 3 years ago
Quoted from bowtech:

So when I first got into this addiction I started out with a Taxi and High Speed. Long story short I had some issues with them. A cool local repair guy came out and repaired them and showed me some tricks. He left me some new parts in case I had issues. He left me transistor 2n4401 k27. They looked the same so I cobled it in there and everything seems to work. Will this be an issue since it's not the number you suggested? Only issue is the left inlane switch still doesn't register but the rest now work.

2n4401 is a suitable replacement as you can see that things are working except that switch. You probably have a broken wire on it or near it, possibly it shorted to a high voltage switch / coil and that's what caused it to blow up dramatically like that. Switch test mode and an ohm meter (not with the game on) are your friend in this instance. First check for a broken wire as I suggested before, if you don't find a broken wire test / clean the actual switch to see if the contacts are good or possibly dirty.

#4467 3 years ago
Quoted from heni1977:

Socks optional?

He was clearly sliding around in them to produce that blurry photo.

1 week later
#4479 3 years ago
Quoted from Brewchap:

Hello folks, I got a thread started. I got 10 flashes on the MPU and I changed out U27, then tried disconnecting the connectors all except 1J17 and still get 10 flashes. Any help would be appreciated.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f-14-tomcat-sys-11a-10-diagnostic-flashes#post-5733260

I just responded in your thread too but that board needs major, professional help to clean up and resolve the damage from leaking batteries. Good luck!

2 weeks later
#4495 3 years ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Working on another F14 for a friend. This fuse keeps blowing on startup. No transistors on his rottendog board look bad or toasty. All coils on purple/yellow arent working. Flippers are working fine.
Where should I start hunting? All diodes on these coils look intact... no obvious burnt coils. I have a fuse breaker on the way to help diagnose this without wasting a bunch of fuses.
[quoted image]

I'd start by testing the drive transistors for all those coils, I suspect you'll find one shorted. If none test shorted the breaker will help you determine which one is locking on at power up, if it isn't that you'll need to check the diodes and coils for a short.

#4503 3 years ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Thanks Grumpy. Board is out on the bench.
I'm unfamiliar with testing MOSFET transistors. They arent the same as the Darlington Tip102 that I'm used to. Do you have a recommended way of testing these?
Thanks.
[quoted image]

Since you're just looking for a shorted one testing is relatively easy, put the red lead on the Drain (D) and the black on the Source (s), it should read essentially open (very high ohms), if it reads near 0 it's shorted.

#4505 3 years ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

I'm gonna guess Rottendog used different Q numbers than the manual to label their transistors?
I have 2 shorted transistors (Q1 and Q12) out of all of the 13N10L on this board.
Q1 has .5 K Ohms
Q12 has 0.001 ohms
All of the rest read about 11 K Ohms.
Going to order a handful of these for the future.

I don't know those Rottendog boards at all other than looking at them occasionally as a potential replacement but seeing as how the same board can be used in so many games and even in Data East it appears, I'm sure they are different. I looked at the website and saw the "Schematics" tab but there is absolutely nothing there, rather strange. I'd guess the fastest way to map the drivers to their respective coils would be to beep them out to the connector for all the returns to the board. My advice on testing them just came from experience testing Mosfets in general, good luck!

#4510 3 years ago
Quoted from Phantasize:

Help please?
I have finally gotten my F14 up and running after buying it as a project a little over a year ago. But unfortunately i encountered a problem..
A couple of days ago, when finished with it, I played 7-8 games on it, and then turned it off. At that point i thought i smelled something funny coming from the machine, but was unable to pinpoint it. But as everything was working, I thought it was probably just dusty old electronics "settling in". Then yesterday, when i wanted to play it again, i noticed the upper right flipper was barely moving. When inspecting it, it was obvious that the coil had been quite warm, and the (brand new) sleeve was extremely tight, stopping the plunger from going into the coil. So the funny smell from yesterday was obviously the coil getting warm.
I changed the coil and sleeve, and tried turning it on again, expecting the problem to still be present. And it was. After flipping a little on it (a minute or two), the upper right coil was clearly beginning to get hot, where as the rest of the coils were not.
So the question is, where do i start? As everything is actually "working", could it be a leaky transistor? I checked that the EOS is adjusted properly, and opens when the coil activates. And the flipper also only activates when pressing the left cabinet flipper button all the way in.
My main experience is with WPC machines, so i am having a little problem reading the F14 diagram. If you think i need to check the driver transistor, could you please point me in the right direction, if possible?
THANKS!

The flippers in F14 are not CPU controlled so there isn't a driver transistor for them, they are simply controlled by the cabinet flipper buttons and the EOS switch. It sounds like they are working correctly in game other than getting too hot. Is is the proper coil? Be sure it's wired correctly, though if it weren't I'd expect it not to work properly but be absolutely sure that no voltage exists across the low impedence (flip) side when the flipper is fully extended. I suspect a bad or mis-adjusted EOS switch.

3 months later
#4629 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyohtay:

Had a right slingshot coil fire and stay powered on. Friend didn't shut it down quickly and when I came over the solenoid was smoking, so that will need replacing. What is the most common cause of a solenoid circuit failure like that? This machine has a Rottendog board. The wire at connector 1J19-4 now always has power applied at start up. The transistor in position Q71 appears to be a tad blue colored looking to be over heated, and that corresponds to the Blue/red wire in position 4 for that Right sling. Numbers off that transistor are 1J39AD FQP 13N1OL. I had a older Rottendog MPU do something similar to a different coil, but the same issue and it got swapped out for this newer board. THoughts?

Shorted drive transistor, this is very common on any kind of board (original WMS, etc.) that a drive or pre-driver shorts out. The better question is why didn't the fuse blow before it melted the coil, that's what should have happened. You can test both transistors (drive and pre-drive) with a DMM in diode test but I would replace the driver now even if it was caused by the pre-driver shorting out. I'm not saying you should buy from this source but this is the part number and type of transistor you need: ebay.com link: c

#4632 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyohtay:

Been reading up on Mosfets. the one in the board is a 13N100. rated at 13 amps. would that one in the link be rated at 33 then?

Yes, which is major overkill but not a problem really. Check around and you might get lucky enough to find a local parts supplier that has a suitable replacement, otherwise digikey, Mouser, possibly Great Plains Electronics, Pinball life of Marco will have something suitable, you'll just pay more for shipping than the part but that's life!

#4636 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinchild:

Much better.
I wonder where I can get those white spacers?
Thanks!

Someone is selling a complete new assembly these days if you really get in a bind and can't get yours working properly again.

2 weeks later
#4666 3 years ago
Quoted from Peruman:

I’m shopping out an F14 for a buddy and I noticed the left inlane guide on his game is very different from the photos for this game that I found on Pinside.
The photos below are of his game with the inlane guide circled in red. It only has one screw holding it in place and it just does not look correct when compared to the other photo.
Is this a hack? Maybe a sample game? I don’t know much about the game, just shopping it out for a friend.
Thanks!
[quoted image][quoted image]

I think just one screw on that lane guide is the correct / main production version and I believe they are the same as HS uses: http://www.passionforpinball.com/FlipFrames/AndyHS2.jpg These replacements from Cliffy are awesome BTW.

3 weeks later
#4688 3 years ago
Quoted from Johnnny:

Here is our new member post and introduction i guess. Just bought the family our first ever pinball machine. Looked at several before landing on the F-14 itself. This F-14 or seems to be the best of the 3 f-14's we looked at. Sorry for the bulb glare in the pictures.
The cabinet seems like it is pretty sweet overall.
Boards and components seem good so far.
No corrosion around batteries.
LEDS installed in everything except for the flashers. (future project ---will search previous posts on this forum for knowledge).
Beacons work (small squeak gonna get belts and clean).
Playfield seems pretty decent for wear and such, it has what seems to be typical insert pealing and finish cracking.
back glass is not original it is a piece of glass with a plastic like sheet attached to it. Looks okay.
Here is where I could use some experienced advise, pry a lot more but maybe we can start here.
Flippers are due to get freshened up. My plan is to rebuild all four. new sleeves bushings and everything in the kits. Thoughts on using the external spring rather than the one around the plunger? if so anyone have a part number for that external spring.
As part of the flipper rebuild (which began due to the top left flipper getting hung up once in a while not going back to the home position) my playfield does not have any positioning holes behind the flippers. Seen that before?
Behind the lower flippers is there supposed to be metal guide rails in the two small holes shown in the picture?
On occasion when I shoot a ball into the center targets it takes and jumps off the field and bounces all over. i have ordered a little foam blocks for behind the target along with a set of padded targets. Any other advise on how to correct to keep from damaging the playfield? are they weak targets.?
Opinion -thinking about using black legs with a red pen stripe or do you think chrome would look better?
And yes I have a little experience with electrical, but from what i have read in the previous forum pages i have lots and lots to learn. lol
Thank you in advance for any help you can offer.
Johnnny
located in Nebraska[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Congratulations on your first game and welcome to the forum/club.

Yes, you are missing the "biff bars" that go in those holes. It won't really affect gameplay as they are primarily there to prevent bangbacks which no one should be doing on your game more than once anyway. Can probably find replacments somewhere though I will say I've never looked for them.

I think custom black / red legs or just standard stainless would look great since you have stainless trim and lockbar already. Since yours are already black I say have fun doing the custom look.

F14 came with a translite, not a true backglass so that's factory and okay unless it's badly faded, ripped, etc. in which case it's pretty simple to replace.

When you re-build the flippers just us a straight edge to align them with the ball guide and you'll be in good shape.

Stopping airballs from hard hits to those center targets is tough to do because they are so close to the flippers. Some softer target backing foam may help but since your playfield already has the typical wear in this game I don't think I'd be overly worried about that.

#4696 3 years ago

Any chance those of you with the intermittent sound issues are all running Rottendog boards?:

#4710 3 years ago
Quoted from koen12344:

Can't have too many flashers!

That must have been the design team's credo when they did GOT.

8 months later
#4926 2 years ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Here’s an interesting one. My F14 is awarding bonus and going to the next ball when you plunge into a kickout. It always starts in the one on the far right side, right? Well these are going to the left (say on ball 1) and then right (on ball 2) kick outs that are in the center of the playfield.

I'm pretty sure the correct behavior is for it to plunge to the centers and kickout when no locks are lit. Once you light lock it should go to to the far right for lock one, then divert to the two center ones alternating and kicking out a ball that's locked there when necessary until all the locks are lit. My guess is you have a problem with one of the switches on the ramp that trigger the diverter.

#4929 2 years ago

Some things have changed for me so if anyone is looking for a Buthumburg (sp?) reproduction playfield for their F14 please shoot me a PM as I won't be installing mine anymore.

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