Hello,

I'm Averell from germany and I own a F-14 Tomcat, too.
Actually I try my best to recreate this great pinball machine.

The first new part was a new speaker panel.

http://abload.de/img/dscn0784yarwf.jpg

Here is the last available set of plastics in europe - I got it from a dealer in france and it really was the last set in stock.

http://abload.de/img/dscn0850tzdut.jpg

The clear plastics now look like this - a great job from a guy here in this community - I just changed the color on the edge of the decals.

http://abload.de/img/dscn0854pck9u.jpg

Here the cleaned lightcabs and holders.

http://abload.de/img/dscn1047vsoxn.jpg

The cabs and plastics itself will bei screwed, not clinched.

http://abload.de/img/dscn1072g3rry.jpg

http://abload.de/img/dscn1073f3ogk.jpg

The next step is the reconditioning of the ugly coin door and the change to euro coins including special coin acceptor.

My F-14 before I started the restauration... damaged decals and broken plastics.

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Take a look at the bad coindoor...

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Well,
here's my F-14 - not finished yet, but soon it will be an amazing pinball again.

First I cleaned the coindoor...

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... then came the primer.

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After that I started to coat it with a special coating for speakers. Now the door has got the same surface like original.

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The restored coindoor with new galvanized parts and new Euro coincontrols.

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Screwed plastics

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Cabinet better as new with new better speaker.

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Playfield coated 21 times and of course new set of CPR-plastics with protectors.
There's no more mylar!
Left and right modified clear plastics (thanks André) with black border.
Restored flashers in the upper playfield like the early Tomcats had and LED everywhere.

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Selfmade Spinner decals with an entirely MIG (look at the details on its wings) and a high resolution explosion.

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kind regards
Averell

This paintjob is very difficult and you need a lot of experience to do it.
You have to consider, that you must get rid off the mylar and repair the broken parts on the playfield first. This playfield was painted from a company with more than 10 years of experience with this work, and of course our F-14 is quite special because of bent inserts and rubbed decals. It took four month to repair it and the paintjob was done with an incredible dedication. If you have no experience - don't do it yourself. Most of the work I did myself, but not this beautiful playfield.
The starpost is just an idea to protect the plastic and keep the ball in distance, although I use protectors for every plastic, but you can observe that most of the Tomcats are often damaged in that area.
I also set a metal protector in the upper playfield between the flashers like some early Tomcat had. This prevents breaking the big plastic if the ball gets stuck under the rubber.
But it's not finished at all.

Here's a picture, where the metal protector is installed.
Some Tomcat had it, but most of them not?
Mine only had the holes in the playfield, but not the protector itself!

Bild 2.jpg

This happens, when your engine is to fast... result is broken plastic or short circuit!

Bild 1.jpg

The address is www.pinball-dreams.com

Well,
you see this part is very necessary in that area.
My Tomcat is very very fast because not only the playing field has become very fast, I also have strengthened the coils, in addition, with condensers.
It's no compare to the normal coils or the weak green ones.
Now, the game is as quick as it should be.
A problem is the yagov kicker, the backfire is so hard, that the ball almost smashes the glass. That needs an adjustment, then this F-14 is perfect.

When you have a playfield like mine, it doesn't matter what kind of coil you use. The surface is so smooth, that the balls became so fast - they get of out control!
That's the reason I only use the normal coils with condensers.
The one and only "problem" is the yagov kicker.
Of course, my intension was, to get this F-14 so fast as it was playable, without getting any trouble.
Another problem is, that I use a coated glass with antireflection and it's very expensive.
I have to consider that the coating of the glass could be damaged.
But you can thrust me, I will solve the problem in the next days.

Hello,

here's a decal for my Apron.

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First I have to clean the Apron and then it'll be powder-coated RAL9005.
Then it'll be pasted with the decals.
I bet, it'll look better as new!

If you clean the Apron yourself you just have to blast it with fine glass or sand to get a smooth surface.
Then it can be powdered - you have to count with ~30,- Euros.
The advantage is simple that the powder is tougher as the original thin layer of varnish and you never get light rust or corrosion in that area again.

I own the decal for Corel-Draw.
You can print this decal for ~25,- Euros in your printshop.
At the moment I think about to create target decals.

Anonther innovation is this - adjustable Flipperarms:

fl.jpg

They're soon available in different versions.
With this part you can adjust ankle and lengths from above, it's not needed to open the cabinet anymore.

Hello,

today I have received mail from Steve Ritchie - he's a nice guy!

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This plastic will get a special place in my Tomcat.

Yes, first I've sent him some pictures of the Tomcat and then I asked him signing that plastic - that's it.
He told me also, that he and his brother are the voices behind Yagov and Hitman, Steve is Yagov - very funny.
My Pin is almost finished, I just have to wait for the new LED-Displays.

Rec: Yes, it's an honor to have something special on our pinball and you must be a lucky man!
I try to meet Steve somehow here in Germany. Next I want to restore an Indiana Jones and then I want to have something signed from Steve's brother Mark.

Here's my next idea - Target decals for our Tomcats.
It's the same design like on the playfield.
The white targets get black decals, the red and blue ones get white decals.

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The Decals will be printed next week, then I will get a Proof to check how they fit on the target.

And here's another innovation: Buttons manufactured from aluminium

Here's a first prototype.

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In a few weeks they're available in five different colors - same like the adjustable flipperams.

Yes, I think about it - this is just a prototype.

The switch uses the same electric potential like the side borders and glass cover - that's it.

Here're some new pictures of my Tomcat.
It's finished to 90 %, I still have to wait for the new LED-Displays.

Coindoor with polished bolts, same as at the backbox

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ALU-Buttons in new polished sidebars, they're drilled with only two screws.

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Finished Playfield with new Inserts, Decals, Plastics, Protectors, Rubbers, and LED.

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Left Lane

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Right Lane

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Rebuilt Flashers like the Prototypes and some Early's had on the right (not finished).

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Rebuilt Flashers like the Prototypes and some Early's had on the left (not finished).

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Polished Early-Beacons looking new.
In play you have to wear sunglasses.

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This Tomcat is not finished yet and it took me 7 month of time and a lot of money, but it's worth it.
I have no restore thread here, all information about this Tomcat is in this thread.

Here're my new Instructions and Checklist, but I don't know which one I should use?

F-14 Tomcat Instruction-Coin-Cards_3.jpg

F-14 Tomcat Instruction-Coin-Cards_5.jpg

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Very nice Cards...

That's weird...

No Beacons on top - no Tomcat!

Just look at post 1181 how beautiful these beacons could be.
They're an elementary component on this pin.

Hi,
I've ordered a LED-System from PINLED in Germany, but I still have to wait for delivery.
Same problem at my Tomcat with the old damaged display.
A good choice to change in new technology.

The LED from PINLED is adjustable with same color as original and they use a filter between LED and Panel.

Here's a picture to the entrance of my pinball hall of the future downstairs.
I use old but good translites from Tomcat and Indiana Jones, last one will be the next pin, if Tomcat is finished.

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So it is, you have to fix all the inserts to have a nice playfield.
Remember, my playfield was coated 21 times and now it has a perfect smooth surface.
In combination with new plastics and the custom decals from André it looks fantastic.

dscn7379small8yu20.jpg

In my opinion the playfield protector is useless, while there would still get dust and dirt under the protector and damage the playfield.
And for sure you just cover existing scribbles and scratches, but they're still there - no option for me.
It's a long process and it took four month for the playfield only!

White on slingshot and others like that and blue for the flippers.

Here's the first Proto from my target decals.
The white on transparent with black lines and for the red and blue ones I print them with white lines.
They'll have a hole in the middle, so they'll fit for 100%.

DSCN1397.JPG

Yes, that's the reason why I use same target decals for all.
Just wait for the new pictures, you'll understand if my Tomcat is finished - it'll look harmoniously great!

Good news for me, I'll get my display next week.

Check the tilt-switch in the coindoor and the cables, maybe they're broken or short circuit?

If someone need the manual (all parts) from the Netherland page, I can send it via email as PDF.

Hello Guys,

here're new pictures of my Tomcat.
It's still not finished at all, but in a few days the work is done!
Enjoy...

Finished Cabinet that looks inside as good as outside.
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Finished Electric, LED-Lamps, Coils, Wires, Inserts, etc.
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New LED-Display and Speakerpanel - Backglas fired by LED.
Still there's a sight with the original translite.
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Finished Playfield with very fast smooth surface that looks like ice.
There're no scratches or damages - this is the best condition you can get on a Tomcat.
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Finished Backbox - all parts inside look like new, there was no damage.
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Adjustable Speaker level for the new Sound System.
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It looks like someone had forgotten this beautiful Pinball since 1987 in the storeroom.
This was really a hidden treasure.
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Here're new pictures...

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This is the capacitor to power up the upper flipperfingers

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Here the restored flashers from Prototype and Early protected against short circuit.

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The key-fob signed from Steve, in my opinion the best place to put in.

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Mirror metal plate left...

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... and right.

The Apron was in a bad condition.

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I've cleaned it outside...

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... and inside

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The Speakerpanel will be upgraded, too.

First sanding...

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then painting...

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... and new LED-Display.

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I will change the speakers against Visaton FX16-4 and SC10N-8, they will fit into the panel like the original. They also harmonize with the Visaton BG20 in the cabinet. I just have to use a 10 yF Capacitor for the SC10N.

The panel for the translite was not so beautiful.

So again sanding...

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... and painting.

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With the new Superfluxx-LED it will be an amazing effect with the translite.

Here're the new speakers - not high-end, but better as original at all.
They fit perfect in the panel and the drillings are same.

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Now the panel is ready, I had to turn the speakers for 90° to be able to solder the cables.

Next step is my "Afterburner" for the upper flipperfingers.

With this modified circuit you get much more power into the game.

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With the little switch you can fly without "Afterburner".

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The sign just shows the direction how to switch to play with "Afterburner".
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Now, the speaker panel is finished with self build filter.

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Today the apron was finished.

Inside...

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and outside in top condition - better than new!

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I have had so much work with it but now the end is in sight.

I just have to do some cosmetic into the cabinet and the electric for the proto-flashers.

Just take a look at this beauty... I love this pinball so much.

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Finished speakerpanel

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Undamaged translite

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Me too
Here's my idea with decals on the apron - it looks like original.
They're colored same as the apron in glossy RAL 9005
With my special playfield glass the outlines are invisible.

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Polished plate for main switch...

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Hi pinballfan,

the decals are created on my own - if you need them, send me your Email.
The panel is glossy white and I did the same for this:

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No,
I have created button in full Aluminium - they're in outstanding quality.

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Next week we launch new customized sets of buttons with different options.
Just wait, I will show some pictures then.

Thank you, the next generation will be much more innovative.

Yes, full automated cnc.
It's just another feelling with those buttons - no comparison to that plastic crap.

Now I'm working on the Proto-Flashers.
First step was to separate the blue and white flashers.
Now they're working how Steve had designed it.

Here you see the white and the white/black wire soldered together.

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Just unsolder the white/black wire and solder it to the connector lamp on the other side of the resistor board.

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Flasher 9 and 10 with LED.

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Now you see the blue one on flasher 9.

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The white one on flasher 10.

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And here're the isolated bulb sockets as they used to be in the proto-models and early productions.
They will work on flasher 7.

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This night I finished the circuit for the proto-flashers.

First I solder a black wire on the switch-board to connector A7 and lay the wire to a resistor-board with free connectors driver and lamp.

Switch-Board.jpg

Next I solder the wire from A7 to the connector driver on the resistor-board.
The other wire is soldered on connector lamp and put to the proto-flashers.
The 24 volts must be taken from multiplexed lamps with orange wire.
I took a red wire back to the proto-flashers.
Don't solder the wire on the power-supply for the coils, this won't work!

Resistor-Board.jpg

Here the first of the two flashers - protected against short circuit.
On the backside of the target I use the same isolator as fitted frontside.
The bulb socket is isolated twice.

Flasher 7.jpg

Today I've finished the flashers.
All is working fine.

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My last building site - the beacons.
I'll restore them complete...

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Cleaned and polished parts of the beacons.

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I also have to fix the power supply and use a power reducer.

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The Beacons are ready - take a look, it's better then it ever was!
All parts cleaned and polished including drive.

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What exactly do you mean?
Behind the speaker panel - normally there're no lights.
You think there're light because there're sockets in the LED-Panel?
Well, this panel is same as used in the Williams Millionaire pinball, but in F-14 Tomcat, there's no function!

Today I finished the power supply - very beautiful look.

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Here's a picture how the F-14 looks at the moment...

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@ChoppaCade: Good idea... I think about it.

@FiftyQuid: Also a good idea...

@pinballfan: Do you mean the led for slingshots? There are no led installed. The rest of lights are led and I've bought them in a complete set from camper (www.superfluxxer.de). But you have to keep in mind that you have to install some standard lights into the circuit to prevent "spirit lights" by the led.

These are the led I use in my Tomcat: http://www.superfluxshop.de/products-mainmenu-64.html?page=shop.browse&category_id=387

Just follow the hyperlink posted above and look at "Kuppel LED".

And now here's Tomcat with exposed mirror blades!

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Thanks, I just have to wait for the new proto-buttons, target decals and then this mission is accomplished!

And now here they're: ALU-Flipperfingers and brand new ALU-Buttons.
With these fingers you can change the angle from upper playfield without disassembling the whole assembly.
The buttons can be changed in hardness and length by using different springs.

You can get this cool stuff here: http://www.adpin.de/

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Here I've used a combination with red housing and polished button - great look.

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Three of four fingers are ready.

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The left finger in the upper playfield is a bit tricky to change, but it's possible without disassembling the diverter gate.

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Installed fingers

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Here're the last and long awaited parts for this project:

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• Target Decals (selfmade design)
• different Protectors
• Decal for Service-Buttons (new selfmade design)
• different Scorecards (on translite)

Decal for Service-Buttons fit perfect

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Custom made target decals - great look.

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I think there's something wrong with the solenoid circuit - check blanking signals!

First Update of the axes, you can see that they're knurled now.
This is necessary to prevent that the fingers twist in the assembly.
I hope this solution works with the weak Williams clamps.
Another idea is to change the clamps and use newer massive ones from Stern.

// Error: Image 419899 not found //

I only use old aprons with decals.

Today I've inserted a cliffy protector for the ball box - very usefully.

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No,
the reason is, to prevent danger of a short circuit to the switch line board if the prototype flashers are installed.
Just take a look at the service bulletin SS41 and you'll understand.
You can see how my solution works one page before.
You can use more powerful coils, but you have to make sure the problem mentioned above!
I also have modified the flipper board with a stronger capacitor to get the speed Tomcat is designed for - it works and it makes the machine much more attractive to play.

Yes, it's right.
But this is not the reason - in fact, this improvement is just to keep warranty for Williams and take the game as long as possible in play with low costs to earn money!
The design of the playfield with the prototype flashers was wrong and took effect in the short circuit of the switch line board, caused by contact of backside target and lamp socket.
I never saw a F-14 with damaged targets, I only know damaged machines due to short circuit.
Trust me and try my modification and you'll see - it's impossible to destroy a target or the switch line board.
It doesn't matter if with or without the flasher installed.

I use later EL 11722-50V (green) - but with capacitor switched on the EOS-contact will be fired with ~70 Volt and burns down much stronger and quicker.

My assemblies and bearing are modified, too.
In my case it's regardless what type of coils I use, because when I switch on the capacitor the coils become stronger and the game gets very fast.
I have improved the whole pinball machine to make it steady and playable.
The playfield is protected everywhere and I have produced special bearings for the axes and I use clamps from Stern to prevent twisting the axes into the clamps.
Also, I have installed ALU-Flipperfingers - I know what I do, and I bet there's no F-14 that makes possible a stable powerplay like mine.

Achslager_Williams[1].jpg

Are these new balls after playing a while, or are they still old balls?
You should use new balls and check the playfield and the ramps, it looks that the surface is not only dirty... do they have grooves or scratches?
First clean your pinball machine - the most dirt appears from rubbers, smoke and bad balls, of course - they wear out the surface of the playfield!
Don't play with these balls anymore!
And don't use lubrications on the playfield or assemblies, because remains of it stick on the balls and close up with the wear.
And be sure to get rid of superfluous wax, that causes the same problems.

Today we finished the new modified axes for the adjustable flipper fingers.
In combination with the much more better Stern clamps, it's impossible that the axes will twist again into the assembly.

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And here's the clear evidence - Stern clamps fit perfect with the Williams assembly.
Now I change all four assemblies for a steady gameplay.

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Yes, show us some pictures, maybe it's not so much trouble.
For example, I've cleaned my cabinet and used complete new decals.
You also have the choice to restore the cabinet with stencils.

I agree with Superbee, strip the cabinet and use new decals.
You also have to close the holes from the damned door lock in the front, so did I.

Here's my machine after restoration with decals.

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Now my Scorecards are finished - they look like translite.

Inverter for 110 Volts
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Electric light foil
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Scorecards on translite
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Tomcat in play
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This morning I've finished the protector for the right outlane and it fit perfect..
It's really usefully to protect the wooden part.

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Now left and right lane are protected.

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Here's the connection to the inverter at the power supply (Connector 3J6 ).
You have to connect pin 6 for 12 volts + and pin 11-14 for ground - that's it.

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Congratulation and much success with the restoration.

Ah, it's a late Tomcat.
For me there's no choice for a perfect restauration, just look at the areas spinner, the inserts 32k and 64k and the right targets.
First you have to get rid of the Mylar and then you'll see.
You can order a new set of plastics at CPR, they're still in stock.

These decals from André Gagnon are looking great.
I also create a new decal for the ramp and the spinner.
The original decal for the ramp would be covered anyway, so I stuck mine in front.
And the new decal for the spinner has a new design with the entire MIG and a better explosion on the other side.

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And I create these decals for the targets, too.
In the center is a hole for the rivets, so there shall be no evidence of lifting or blistering of the decal.

rt.jpg

Now it's done - Tomcat is finished!

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Thanks goes to all which were involved "somehow" in the restoration of the pinball machine.

• André Gagnon
• CPR-Californien
• Flippermarkt.de
• Flipperservice Litfin
• Fody
• Fredelchen
• Froesius
• HanBee
• Krummel
• Michael
• GTE-Oberflächentechnik
• MBT-Eurotec Pulverbeschichtung
• RC-Schrauben
• Pinball-Dreams
• Pinball-Shop Fach 8
• Pinside.com
• Pro-Kilo
• The PinWitch Pinballparts
• Zpeakabonks-Pinball-Paradise

And quite special thanks go to STEVE RITCHIE for the nice contact, good tips and the signed Plastic No. 554-10.

Soon I want to start the next project - Williams Indiana Jones Pinball Adventure

Prototype have these two red flashers in the upper playfield, other stronger coils for the upper flipper fingers, a gate under the upper plastic in the middle and of course cable wired insert lamps and no compact switchboards.
Prototype and early Tomcats only had six white flashers in the back, later Tomcats had red ones.
Also Flasher 7, 9 and 10 are different connected as later Tomcats.
Take a look into the backbox, if this is a prototype, roms are suitably labeled.
Prototype and early Tomcats also have another mainboard with other optical diagnostic program, too.
Some Tomcats also have other lightboards in the backbox between translite and mainboard - some are laminated, others are raw.
The white beacon on prototype and early Tomcats is clear, later ones were glazed like shower glass.

The reason is funny. People in bars, shops or amusement arcades had complained about the bright lights.
So Williams decided to change the white beacons!

Yes, this is correct, but lots of machines were modified over the years - I have seen Tomcats with other artwork on the cabinet that was colored with yellow stripes like on the picture, and some machines had artwork (like Key fob) on the speaker panel, too.
I know, prototypes have the x in serial number.
My information about Earlys was, there have been about 80 units, but I can't believe it.

Mine is S/N I100470

F-14 is still my favourite machine!
This weekend it's possible to get an Indiana Jones, also one of the best machines ever built - I must have it.
And again I will restore it and try to get a keyfob signed by Mark Ritchie.

@zippydapinhead

If you send me an email ([email protected]), I can send you a new artwork (Corel) for the spinner-decal.
On this decals you will see the entire MIG and a better explosion in higher Resolution.
I remember, that all decals in stock are done unkind - they look terrible.

Kind regards
Averell

Looks not so bad.

Show us how nice your Bombcat is and then we discuss your membership.

You should change the Display to LED-Technology to reduce power consumption and save the electric power supply.
Unfortunately the original Displays die earlier or later.

Ah ok, that's good.
I use a LED too and it works fine.

These are just covers - some Pins had this as decals painted on the grills.

As I promised - here's the new wingman for my F-14 Tomcat.

Indiana Jones - The Pinball Adventure

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@KingBW:

A lot of work and it looks fantastic - you just have to change the ramp decal like I did.
If you need corel-data to print it, send me an email.
You can see the "Landing/Lock On"-decal in the Galerie (unknown pic.8 and 13)

Ahh, not exactly what i mean - look at page 28.
Take a look at post #1365 here in this Topic, there you see the modified "Landing/Lock On"-decal.
You use the plastic-decal from André and on the left side it interferes the "Landig/Lock On"-decal - you now understand?
I also create an new Spinner-decal with the entire MIG and an improved explosion and the "Kill Gen. Yagov" is also new aligned and fit better on the assembly in front of the ramp.
If needed, you can get these decals in corel to print.

Hi KingBW,

just send me an email to this address and I send you the decals, ok?

[email protected]

regards
Averell

Left in the cabinet, near by the tilt mechanism is the volume control.
And it's more and more difficult to get slingshot plastics, often the left one is more damaged.
I use double-sided protectors on both of my new slingshot plastics.

That's right, on F-14 there's no knob on the potentiometer - looks like missing, but it's original.
Service assembly with Buttons is easy to get.