(Topic ID: 66172)

F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.

By Hellfire

6 years ago

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  • 4,079 posts
  • 322 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by GRUMPY
  • Topic is favorited by 132 Pinsiders


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#2209 2 years ago

Just started a tech thread for an F14 I got called out to look at.
Thought I would post the link here in case any of you System 11 experts can help me out.

1 month later
#2387 2 years ago
Quoted from SUPERBEE:

I must give gredit to GRUMPY !!! He is so patient and has taught us all so many things !! Just want to say thanks again GRUMP !! You are such an asset to the pinball community !!

So very true.
In one night (Last night), he had me build a power connector from an old PC power supply and a 9 pin IDC connector so I could power up a customers F14 board on my dining room table and test my 7402 IC chip.
Truly a man who goes above and beyond the call of duty here.
Thanks Grumpy.
I will be driving the board back over to install tonight if the weather holds out.

2 months later
#2508 2 years ago

Finally joined the club yesterday. After helping fix an F14 one town over from my a few months ago I finally came across another one for sale as a project. It is indeed a project, but I should be able to get it working eventually. The seller says the displays work and the game plays but he robbed three molex connectors from the backbox that I have to rewire. It is missing 3 rollover switches. The coin door buttons are messed up and the usual divertor coils are a problem. I think that is the worst of it.
It has the usual mylar bubbling over the inserts.
I will no doubt eventually start my own tech thread once I dive deeper into it.
Here are a few photos.

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#2510 2 years ago

Just started my tech thread. Here is a direct link to it.

What I really need are two photos.
The underside of the ball trough area showing the switches and how they are wired.
And one of the plugs on the power board showing the wiring order. I believe it is 3J3.
The photos is the thread show exactly what I need.

Then if anyone knows where to get the switches from that I need, that would be awesome. None of the part numbers from the manual show in stock anywhere.

1 week later
#2530 2 years ago

Just fired up my project F-14 for the first time. (Had a lot of issues to tackle first)
Good news it boots up.
But I noticed that two of the little square segments on the display are not on.
One in the top left and one in the bottom left.
What should I check first to maybe get these working again?
All the rest of the segments are bright and good.

#2532 2 years ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Start with reseating - more appropriately, replacing - the score display ribbon cable. 9 times out of 10 faulty cable will cause various problems with the score displays. You can reseat or wiggle and sometimes get them to work, but likely that a flaky cable will fail again later is high. Replacement insures the connectors get a nice, gas tight seal between male and female pins.
The next step would be to take a look at this link:
Partial Segment Failures on Score Displays and on down the page.

Thanks wayout440.

#2534 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Would this be the same segments on both displays #1 and #3?

Yes. One on top the other

IMG_3986 (resized).JPG

#2536 2 years ago
Quoted from bronco-jon:

Is that the machine plugged into that white extension cord?
....not that it would have anything to do with the display

Yes. Extension cord is the only way to get power to the games in the work area.
The room has 16 pinball machines in it so I can't get it near an outlet when I work on them.
It is grounded though. I have never had an issue with this in over 25 years of repairing games.

#2537 2 years ago

If someone could take some close up photos of how these two diverter coils should be wired up and oriented it would help me a lot.
Looks like from the photo below someone has put the coils on upside down and spliced into the purple/yellow wire to only have to run one Purple/yellow to each coil. (Will that work?)
Also are these coils supposed to have diodes or no diodes.
Photos of a working games diverter coils are really needed.
I have two new coils with diodes, just don't want to install wrong. I already have to replace the tip and pre driver.

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#2540 2 years ago

Thanks Grumpy.
Awesome info.
I have 3 pulled out switches I am replacing now. But when I'm done with them I will tackle the two diverter coils and the display segments

#2542 2 years ago
Quoted from bronco-jon:

I was just having flashbacks from a couple weeks ago when I unloaded an older Bally ss.
I sat it down on the ground after I unloaded it and plugged the cord (someone cut the ground prong off) into my grounded extension cord. I went to open the coin door and it shocked the piss out of me.....I haven't looked yet to see what is shorted or grounded.

Been there, done that. lol
We once got a Xenon that someone had wired the plug up backwards. (they had put the ground on a hot prong)
It actually worked until you accidentally leaned on two machines next to each other.

#2555 2 years ago

Thanks for the photos.
I have mine situated correct now but close up photos like this always help.
I have noticed they used Red/White wires on some F-14's and on others like mine they used a Violet/yellow wire.
I have already flipped my coils over because they were indeed installed upside down and replaced them with new coils with diodes.
Have not gotten to test them out yet because the CPU was a mess behind the Q77 and Q79 area. So much so that it was beyond my repair ability. So I am waiting for it to come back in the mail soon.

4 weeks later
#2618 2 years ago
Quoted from doodlesdaddy:

94222 was the first one so My 94276 would be 54th. 554 is the game designation. All from the pinball serial number database so hopefully correct

Wow. What a bizarre coincidence.

2 weeks later
#2633 2 years ago

I use that same IDC connector. lol
It is indeed hard on the hands.
We had 4, 9 pin IDC connectors that were clipped off our F-14.
My brother and I traded off after each connector because our arms were killing us.
We did make the process easier by using a small piece of wood in our other hand to press against.
But sometimes the wires were so short it was a real magic act to get it done.

#2671 2 years ago

Just got my F14 to boot up and start a game with special thanks to Chris Hibler.
But since I do not want to bother him on his personal phone any more then necessary I figured I would post my new issue here for Grumpy and the rest.

My game now starts up and will kick out a ball to start a game. Yes!!! Finally getting somewhere.

But while most game switches and coils work, I have no flippers, pop bumper or slings. (All fuses tested)
Chris had me ground out a small diode on the MPU board to see if it brought back power to the flippers.
It is the first diode D3 above the large flipper relay dome in the photo. I believe he called it a 2N3904.
And success, it worked!!!
If I keep the left side of that diode grounded I get my flippers back.

But that is where we left off.
What should my next steps be to get the game playing fully?

Any ideas appreciated.

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#2675 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Are you sure that both diverter coils are working?

No but when we plunged the ball it was diverted by one of them.
They are new coils and the CPU board was repaired by Chris a few weeks ago.
We can check the voltage sometime tomorrow. Not near the game at the moment.

#2678 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

You should check in coil test. It sounds like none of the SS are working. Do you have a logic probe?

Just a multimeter.
I will get back to the game soon but kinda stuck in what's left of Hurricane Harvey at the moment.
We had 7" of rain fall last night.
Beaumont is flooded pretty good right now.
It is not as bad as Houston which is close by but we could get in that situation fast.

This is the road my business is located on here in Beaumont.

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#2680 2 years ago

Had a few min.
Both diverter coils are working great. I was able to lock all balls and start a multiball.
Just found U50.
Noticed that every time I press on it the relay above it clicks.

#2681 2 years ago

Here is a photo of U50.
Since I don't want to screw anything up which pin is 10 ?
Guessing third from left on bottom row of photo.
The white dot on the board is on the top right pin just like the chip to the left shows.

IMG_4496 (resized).JPG

#2682 2 years ago

Weather is crazy and only going to get worse until Thurs or Friday.
Hoping for the best but the damn storm is heading back out into the gulf and then straight into Houston. Thank god we all have flood insurance but not looking forward to a drowned house which could easily happen now.
On the bright side we are stuck at home with electricity and pinball machines.

#2686 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I think you found your problem, this is a good reason for not using sockets.

So--- resolder the back of the socket?
Replace the socket?
Or bend the legs out a little bit on the chip and reinsert?

#2688 2 years ago

Thanks grumpy.
We got over 5" more of rain last night.
Still stunned at how insane this weather event is.

You guys are awesome with all of your help with games.
Much appreciated.

#2690 2 years ago

Thanks Grumpy.

Ok had time to pull U50 bend the pins a bit and re seat.
Now my flippers are working again!!!!
Very happy camper.
Only 3 issues left.

1. No slingshot scoring or sling coil activity.
2. No pop bumper.
3. One entire segment out on player 1 and player 3. Same segment on both, they are stacked one on top the other.
It is the 5th segment from the left on each.

Will have time for 1 and 2 later. Hoping it is just wiring or switch issue.
Edit... All wiring, diodes and coils look good on both slings and pop.

#2699 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

These are most likely a problem with U-50 still. A trace on top of the board from pin 6 U-50 connects all 4 enables on U-45 together. I think this trace is not making contact with the pin of the socket which will kill all of the other 4 special solenoids. You can check this easy by checking ohms between pin 6 of U-50 and pin 6 of U-45. Should read 1 ohm or less.

You will need a logic probe for checking this, you lock the display on any number and test 1J1 connector for low pulses.

As usual, Awesome info Grumpy.

And just to make sure I am counting my pins correctly, from my photo above pin 6 would be the second pin from the left on the top row of U50. Correct?
If my memory is right on this you count from the white dot on the board, notched end of the chip and go all the way around.

#2704 2 years ago
Quoted from Buzz:

I hope Arcade is doing well and got this beautiful game working and didn't get the flooding I saw on tv for Beaumont. Wishing you the best in both. Hope all is well.

I was extremely lucky with high water.
All machines are still good. Just way to busy helping feed the National Guard and helping others to work on games now.
My cousin lost all 5 of his pins with water up to his attic.
Then to top it all off both of our city water pumps failed last night in a river that is now 16 feet over flood stage.
The sky is filled with helicopters rescuing people and evacuating one of our hospitals. It is all so very surreal.

#2708 2 years ago
Quoted from captainadam_21:

I'm going to look at a F-14 this weekend. Is there anything in particular to look at that is problematic?

Both F-14s I have worked out had burnt diverter coils and well as the coresponding transistors and pre drivers.

2 months later
#2869 2 years ago
Quoted from StylesBitchly:

Last night while I had a friend over for F-14 battle, we noticed that both the right and left flippers are causing random scoring to occur, but only in 100 point increments at a time. Can't locate any tight switches that could be causing this. Any other suggestions as to the cause?

Almost has to be a switch gapped to close.
With 4 flippers on this game it could be almost anywhere.
How about the pop bumper. Sometimes that gets to close simply from gravity.
I would certainly check any gap on switches near a flipper.

#2879 2 years ago

Finally have some time to work on my game again.
Everything is working great but the pop and slings.
When I turn on the game it tells me to check pop and sling switches.
I pulled every switch out and checked for shorts or missing parts.
I found the left sling had it's 25v cap with a leg missing so I replaced the cap.
Still no luck though. Game plays great but refuses to activate those three coils.

#2882 2 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

Sounds like we've got a similar issue(see my post a couple above yours)! I'm curious why these three are out. Is your issue also taking out that under playfield fuse?

Both under playfield fuses are good and do not blow out.
If there are more then two then the one I can't find may be my problem.
I have located one by the left flipper which I assume are for the flippers.
And a second all the way down at the bottom right side when the playfield is lifted.

#2885 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

All SS use a ground wire to activate the TIP on the CPU. These grounds are daisy chained from switch to switch. Did you remove the ground wires from the resistor boards to add LED flashers?

I did not remove any ground wires. The only LED flashers I have installed are under the large round clear window in the center of the playfield. All the rest of the flashers I have not messed with yet.
Where are the resistor boards so I can check if someone else may have done that?
The two led flashers in the round window do work though.

#2887 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Then you should check the inputs at the CPU board 1J18 pin 3, 4 and 5. Use a voltmeter check for 5 volts at pin 3, then press the right kicker rubber and the voltmeter should drop the zero volts. Then repeat for pin 4 = pop skirt. Pin 5 = left kicker.

Thanks Grumpy

#2892 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Then you should check the inputs at the CPU board 1J18 pin 3, 4 and 5. Use a voltmeter check for 5 volts at pin 3, then press the right kicker rubber and the voltmeter should drop the zero volts. Then repeat for pin 4 = pop skirt. Pin 5 = left kicker.

All spots on J18 behave as described. 4.8 volts then drop to zero when pressed.

#2900 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Then check for power on both lugs of each coil that doesn't work. If power is good then briefly ground the metal tab of Q-69, Q-71 and Q-75 to see if the coil fires.

Not exactly sure how to test coil power. But by grounding each wire on the three coils while In attract mode I get 1.5 volts.
Grounding the transistors while in attract mode does not fire the coils.

#2906 2 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

DMM set to 200 volts DC, black lead to ground braid and red lead you check for power at each lug on the coil. Power on both lugs = good power and good coil. Power on one lug = good power and bad coil. No power on either lug = no power, then check both sides of the fuse with the red lead. Power on both sides of the fuse = good power and good fuse.

Thanks again.
Leaving for Florida in the morning so I will get back to this next weekend.

#2910 2 years ago
Quoted from Tmezel:

I'm picking up one of these games for $50. A guy came by the shop and does not want it anymore. No details whatsoever.

Awesome Tim. Congrats.
Paid $500 for ours Enjoying it a lot.
Fun game to fix up.

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