(Topic ID: 66172)

F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.

By Hellfire

10 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

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  • 5,596 posts
  • 469 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 7 hours ago by pb456
  • Topic is favorited by 205 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

19 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #91 Insert color list Posted by jodini (10 years ago)

Post #98 Video - Add red flashers back to light show. Posted by Patofnaud (10 years ago)

Post #163 Technical Sheet - Matrix, etc. Posted by Snux (10 years ago)

Post #205 Speaker Panel - Early model= glue Posted by IceCreamMan (10 years ago)

Post #406 Pop bumper cap replacement. Posted by Fifty (9 years ago)

Post #466 Bulletproof - rectifier fuses Posted by Snux (9 years ago)

Post #477 Removing warming resistors Posted by Jumping-Box (9 years ago)

Post #513 Cliffy Flipper Frames Posted by Xenon75 (9 years ago)

Post #569 How to increase Bonus Posted by wayout440 (9 years ago)

Post #747 Pinball Cards Posted by agodfrey (9 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#2311 7 years ago

Planning to look at a machine possibly this weekend. He tells me it needs a new power supply. And I'm guessing possibly an mpu board. Wondering how much that would set me back in Canadian dollars. If not sure I'd take the U.S. dollars amount and figure it out. Just trying to figure out what I want to spend on this thing. Thanks in advance.

3 years later
#4662 3 years ago

Can someone post a picture of a close-up of the lower right flipper assembly with the coil and all the connections? I’ve been having an issue where my lower right flipper is horribly weak and can’t seem to figure out what’s going on. I thought it was may be a diode issue but I have since proven that wrong. However I have now found a loose wire I’m not sure where it connects. Thanks

#4663 3 years ago
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:

Finally got around to cleaning up this junk.
[quoted image][quoted image]
This resistor board is under the flashers on the right mid playfield. Is it the one for them? Tested everything and the machine looks to be working fine. All three flashers are going off although the blue one less often than the others.

How do you know which block resistors to put in? I have one board that is missing one of the shorter block resistors and I am assuming it’s the same rating as one of the other shorter ones but I’m not 100% sure

#4672 3 years ago
Quoted from Pauz21:

Can someone post a picture of a close-up of the lower right flipper assembly with the coil and all the connections? I’ve been having an issue where my lower right flipper is horribly weak and can’t seem to figure out what’s going on. I thought it was may be a diode issue but I have since proven that wrong. However I have now found a loose wire I’m not sure where it connects. Thanks

Bump on this. Could someone please throw up a pic of the flipper assembly of the lower right flipper? Thx

#4678 3 years ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

And this:
[quoted image]

Thx. Appreciate it. I really need to see how the switches are wired

#4679 3 years ago

So looking for some thoughts from you guys. My lower right flipper is horribly weak. I have tested the diode‘s and don’t believe there is a problem. And today I tried swapping coils with the left and right coil switching places and the lower right flipper is weaker than ever. Anyone have any ideas what could cause this. It seems the hold is fine it’s just the initial engage that has zero power.

3 weeks later
#4690 3 years ago

Still trying to diagnose what I think is a diode issue. Does anyone have any tips on tracing these. Here's the symptoms:

- Like many others... it randomly kicks a locked ball out giving an unintentional 2 ball multiball.
- I see to get several random kills while the ball is in play, no where near registering a kill.
- I have a set of flashers in the back box that if you tap on the playfield or make any bump or bang on the lower cabinet they will flicker or even lock on. Doesn't seem to be as sensitive if you bang around the head. No reaction if I wiggle the wires in the head so I'm certain it's an issue in the cabinet.

I've looked at the diodes on the flippers often... can't see an issue here... but this game has thousands of diodes. Just can't seem to trace it.

Few other issues I'm having
- Randomly a ball will begin with just sound. No music.
- Question... what's the easiest way to scrape these old insert decals off? I have a decal pkg for it... but these things are horrible to get off. I think that's my small list.

#4701 3 years ago
Quoted from Coyohtay:

I have that issue. Mine has a rottendog MPU board and the original audio board

Nope. Mine are original.

2 weeks later
#4728 3 years ago
Quoted from mikepmcs:

As I'm shaking out some bugs and making adjustments on the greatest game about the greatest aircraft ever made for the greatest Navy the world has ever known....could I get confirmation that when I initially complete the TOMCAT (and not stacking) that 2 balls initially will be locked instead of just one basically making multiball achievement that much closer and easier to attain.
It just seems awful funny it does this every time and the last time I put any time on this game was at a local bar near NAS Miramar in the late 80's early 90's. Memory is a little suspect.
That's me in there, 1989 in the back seat working mids and changing out a 142 pin connector hours before a scheduled sortie. What you hear on the radio is my Master Chief screaming at an ambitious AQAN changing out a 142 pin connector hours before aforementioned sortie. It got done. Flight made it on time. It was a funny story....but not that day.
I loved that plane more than life itself.
[quoted image]

Yes the newest code spots 2 locks.

#4737 3 years ago

Hey guys just a quick question. I know there has been talk about the random weirdness on this game being tied to diode‘s. I want to try replacing the diode‘s on the left flipper as that seems to be the one that’s engaged when the weirdness starts happening. Would you replace the diode‘s on the coil or the diode‘s on the switch. Or all of them.

#4740 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

There are no diodes on the switches for the flippers. I would replace both diodes on the coil to start.

Mine does. I’ll check if it’s the eos switch or the always closed one.

#4742 3 years ago

Replaced the diodes on the lower left coil which I suspected may be the issue. Still doing it. I’ll replace the rest. But can confirm the lower flippers have a diode on the switches.

480A3330-007E-4E10-BFA3-4094DF1F0E1B (resized).jpeg480A3330-007E-4E10-BFA3-4094DF1F0E1B (resized).jpegE54AD256-B689-4E51-843D-D9F19DA10C59 (resized).jpegE54AD256-B689-4E51-843D-D9F19DA10C59 (resized).jpeg
#4746 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Those switches are lane change switches and are used to put your name in for the high score and have nothing to do with the flippers. The inner switch is the EOS or end of stroke switch for cutting the high power coil winding off when cradling the ball so the coil doesn't melt. The flipper switches are mounted in the cabinet and have capacitors mounted to them.
Now since you are having issues when the left flipper is pressed you would also need to replace the upper left flipper diodes too.

So... I replaced all the diodes on the flippers. Still occasionally spits out a second ball and occasionally tilts mid ball.

Would changing the diodes on the kicker and pop bumper coils be the next step?

#4751 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Check the 5 volts on test point #1 on the power supply.
How about a pic of SCR 6 on the CPU board.

Test point one. 4.9vdc.
#2. I’m assuming is ground. I got nothing. (I was grounding on the screw on the edge of the board)
#3. 12vdc.
#4. -14vdc.

As for scr6 on cpu... is it labelled as that? Can’t seem to find it.

#4752 3 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Check the 5 volts on test point #1 on the power supply.
How about a pic of SCR 6 on the CPU board.

SCR6.

image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpg
1 month later
#4796 3 years ago
Quoted from Pauz21:

SCR6.
[quoted image]

Does anyone have one of these kicking around? Found one thru Great Plains but it’s about a .90 part with $20 usd to ship. Trying to source elsewhere.

#4799 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinhead306:

Have you tried the digikey website or jagr electronics in Regina? Not sure if either place would have them but worth a shot.

You are a beautiful human. Didn’t know jags existed. Ordered this and a few other things. Parts were more than GPE but shipping very fair to offset the slight increase in part cost. Very happy to learn this.

#4801 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinhead306:

No worries glad to help out. I always check with them if I’m in a pinch and only need a few things. They surprise me with some of the things they have in stock and have access too.

They have to order this stuff in but still. Price is right.

-1
#4804 3 years ago

Silly question. With the recent price hike. What’s a base model G n R pin cost in Canada? Are there any availability with the distributors? Can’t imagine I’ll ever get to that stage in my life to afford one. But curious.

#4810 3 years ago
Quoted from Pauz21:

Silly question. With the recent price hike. What’s a base model G n R pin cost in Canada? Are there any availability with the distributors? Can’t imagine I’ll ever get to that stage in my life to afford one. But curious.

Sorry. Wrong thread. Wondered why no one replied!! Lol

3 months later
#4872 2 years ago

I posted this in the tech threads but thought I’d add it here as well.

I am wanting to add a button battery holder on my tomcat. Does anyone know if it requires a blocking diode to be installed with it? I’ve been looking all over a pin wiki but it’s not clear whether or not I need one.

Thx

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