Joining the club today with a non working beat up project lol. we will see if I can get her running!
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Joining the club today with a non working beat up project lol. we will see if I can get her running!
could any of you fine f-14 owners let me know what the fuse value is for the in-line fuse box? cant find it anywhere in the manual or im just dumb.
was thinking its probably an 8amp slo blo but dont really want to blow stuff up.
got a game that was missing it so want to make sure i dont wreck stuff on it.
Quoted from darcangeloel:I'm pretty sure it is an 8 amp slo blow. I can check when I get home. To confirm this is the one that is in the metal box in the cabinet right? Thanks!
Yeah, the one in the metal box where the power comes in next to the service outlet
thank you!
Quoted from vid1900:You can replace that 8amp fuse with a 4 amp
Whenever I look at Dr Watt to see what the peak draw is on a pin, it's usually under 2 amps.
Thanks vid! good to know
Okay so ive been working on an f14 I got that was completely dead.
Have everything working in terms of coils/lights/flasher but the two diverters for the ball locks.
These were melted when I got the game so I ordered new ones. Installed them today and they both melted while I was testing it...
What do I need to look at ?
Quoted from vid1900:Did they instantly lock on the moment you turned the game on?
not that i know of; so i used my hands to light the locks and then locked them and they each worked (but they made a pretty loud buzzing noise when the diverter was opened, then once the ball went passed to its locked position they turned off. I wired them the same as the previous coils i took out so maybe I copied a mistake on which side goes to the banded side of the diode? or maybe the pre-transistor is bad? I looked at the photos from that rebuild thread you linked a few posts back and they appeared wired the same way I wired mine. (i looked it over prior to soldering on the wires to double check)
i currently do not have a working display but working on everything else in the meantime so I cant really go into test for coil tests at the moment.
edit: after looking at photos I put the wires that are blue/orange (i think its orange but im color blind) on the banded side of the diode on each coil. This looks to be the same as the shop out photos as well as what was previously installed. I put the coil specific wires (Blue/Black and Blue/Green) on the non-banded side of the diode. Does this sound correct?
Okay, so I'm a dumbass. The coils didn't melt like the pervious one's... The diverter plastic cover was missing screws and was blocking the diverter coil plungers from being able to push into the coil and activate. Haha, crisis averted and only cost me my pride and dignity
Anyone source the belts for the topper beacons from local places verse buying online? I just had to take apart and repair my beacon motor and im missing the belts. Would a place like Ace hardware or something similar carry something that would work? Couldnt find the dimensions in the manual but a third party site lists their replacements as 7 x 1/4 x 1/4 each.
EDIT: looks like my NAPA has the #252 o-rings in stock that was referenced earlier in this thread, i will give it a shot and report back.
Anyone who did a full restore or a plastic swap have a non broken plastic for the lower left side above the lower "T O M" targets?
Mine is broke at the bottom and then glued at another broken spot and it wont last long. My game is the definition of a "players game" with a worn playfield and im not going to buy a whole plastic set for it. Leveled the inserts and waxed her up and put leds in it but not going all in on a full restore.
If anyone has this piece id love to buy it from ya
Quoted from cletus:I’ve got one that isn’t too terribly thrashed. It’s yours.
I think I still have your address.
[quoted image]
Sweet, that'd be awesome!
Finally got my project f-14 all up and running 100%. The issue with the garbled display I was having was fixed by replacing U44 and I replaced the SRC's 1-9. I added sockets to all of them and ended needing to jump 6 traces. Sound board issues were fixed with new chips and a cap kit.
still have a few little things to do, like the knocker was taken from this game so need to add one back in, but pretty happy I got a completely dead game that was destined to the parts machine pile from the previous owner back to life!
Quoted from cletus:Yes. Totally overwhelming and amazing! I have the clear flash domes on my back panel and I put red flashers in them. I love it. I see spots for a couple of hours after, but I’ll suffer for a great light show.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Me TOO!
haha fair enough.
anyone else do it and regret it?
i absolutely hate having to pull that board out but may just have to so I can test it out and see for myself.
Quoted from Waderade812:= Has anyone here done the small spot light fixtures? I'm unsure of who makes those. I would be interested to try them before dropping the money on some pin stadiums.
you can buy the parts to build the spot lights for way cheaper than buying them assembled. Ive put some on games in the past, they work pretty great. Comet sells them assembled, probably others as well.
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