Do you have a logic probe?

Its just aluminum tubing, cut to size. At work right now but I could measure tomorrow for you.

They are 13/16 inch long.

Take a pic of the sockets on the insert board, so I can see the color of wires on the sockets.

If the switches were bad the ball would sit there for 10 seconds then the ball search would kick the ball out. Since that doesn't happen the coil can't fire because there is no power or a board issue.

Did you check F-4 fuse on the power supply?

Look at page 28 in the manual. The solenoid 03a ball popper is controlled by the AC relay and transistor Q32. The relay powers the solenoid and the transistor gives it a ground. Page 28 shows the AC relay on the right side. Power goes thru the relay from Sol B+ to NC terminal any time the power is on. Then power goes thru the fuse which is under the playfield and then to the solenoid. So with the game powered on, remove the balls and lift the p/f. Check for DC power (@ 74 volts DC) at both sides of the fuse under the p/f, if its good then check for power on both sides of the coil. If this is good then page 28 shows that there is a diode board (# 11234) inline between the coil and the transistor. Since your troubleshooting solenoid 03a you would check for power on both sides of diode A3 on the diode board which in located in the bottom of the cabinet. If this is good then check for power at the metal tab of Q32 on the CPU board in the back box. If you have power on the transistor then you have a board problem.

I'm 99% sure this isn't needed. If you fix solenoid 03a, then the rest will most likely be fixed at the same time. Your problem looks like a broken power wire. To bad you had to work on Sunday.

Page 46 of the manual shows all of the solenoids and flashers and there placement and correct numbers.

Look at the 2.5 slow blow fuse in the backbox just above the flipper power supply. It has purple/yellow wires on it.

Glad to help, now post the pic of those flasher sockets that are giving trouble to get this game 100%.

If you are going to run LEDs in the flashers then remove the two smaller resistors on that flash lamp board. Since the brown/black flash circuit isn't working with standard #89 bulbs, then with the power off ohm the big resistor on the left. It should be 5 ohms. Also check for cracked solder joints on the board for the resistor. If this all checks out OK then turn on the game and go into solenoid test #9 and lock the advance button down so it stays on #9 test. Then use a jumper wire across the big resistor on the left, don't do too long as it will burn out the bulbs. Does it light with the jumper? If it lights with a jumper then the resistor needs to be replaced. Now onto your other problem, most LEDs bulbs are polarity sensitive and I needed the pic to see which wires are in the wrong place. Your bad luck is every wire is wrong on all four sockets. This will all need to be changed to get the LEDs to light. On the bright side, its good soldering practice.

You wont find much in the manual on the flasher wiring. In the pic you posted the red wire is the positive voltage. The positive voltage is then daisy chained to all four bulbs. The problem is that the positive voltage needs to go to the center pin of the bulb socket, but yours is going to the side terminal of each socket. So for example the upper left bulb socket, remove the single wire from the center pin and put aside then remove the two wires from the side terminal and install them onto the center pin terminal then install the single wire you first removed to the side terminal. Then repeat the reversing of the wires for each socket. How did the resistor test go?

Take a pic when your done and I can double check it before you power it back up.

1 No vote.

I'm with her.

Match the blue in the lower right of the translite. Also semigloss please. If it looks as good as I (and your daughter) think, I might do this to my pin.

This is AC power so no polarity issues when connecting the motor. Turn this on in coil test and retest with meter set to AC volts.

Dark blue with black legs?

It could end up looking like a 300lb black eye.

When measuring AC volts you need to measure across both sides of the transformer coil and not to the ground braid. But since you got 14 volts AC its most likely fine. With game on take a jumper and connect it to the ground braid and touch it to the metal tab of Q-6 on the MPU board. This should make the lights come on and rotate.

If the belts are to tight it causes problems. While they are in the backbox just pull (stretch)them a couple inches and release. If you want to test the power again, there is a 4 pin molex connector that has a red, brown, and two white/blue wires in it. With the game on put your test leads in the blue/white wires and it should be @ 32 VAC.

That's good.

Does it have a socket, if so its been replaced before. Now to fix the beacon transistor Q-6. Do you have a logic probe?

First off are you capable of replacing a transistor or an IC chip? If you are then a logic probe is something you should have in you tool box.

Can you find a junk circuit board to play with? Check out Terry B soldering guide that he post here, its a must.

If I was to guess I would replace Q-2 and Q-6. Also when I replace TIP122, I use TIP102 as they are more robust.

When you grounded the tab on Q-6 and the motor and lights came on, this checked the wiring, the relay and motor and bulbs. The only thing left is the CPU board.

Check the flasher board on the back side of the insert board. Also check for power at the bulb pairs, I think its a orange or red wire.

The board behind the translight.

Use the credit switch for changes.

This is the high score reset button, press and hold for 5 seconds to reset game high scores.

There is a separate flasher board for the backbox and for the playfield. I think its next to the shooter lane and should have a Wht/Blk wire going to it. In solenoid test, repeat solenoid #10 and briefly place a jumper across the larger resistor and see it the flasher bulb works. If the bulb flashes with the jumper on the resistor then the resistor is bad. Don't leave the jumper on to long as it will burn out your bulb.

You need to get a smaller soldering iron!

No transistors in this circuit for older games like this, may guess is a broken hold winding.

Buy a new one for 30 dollars.

If this doesn't work let me know as I have an early sound board for this.

Way to go and a great price too, you will love this game.

Start with solenoid test and see if the slings work then. If they work in test then you need to test the switches to see if they are working.

In attract mode use a jumper wire connected to the ground braid and briefly touch the metal tab of Q-75. Does the sling fire now?

Look on the big board, right hand side @ half way up by the blue relay.

This is R-78 resistor and Q-49, this part of the switch matrix.

If you shorted the lamp power or coil power to the switch matrix circuit it could have done some damage to these components.

They don't always have visual damage when they are bad, so testing is required to determine there functionality.

This a A/C relay board and has nothing to do with your pop bumper, this relay switches between a side solenoids and c side flashers.

The red wires are installed correctly even tho it doesn't seem right. The labels on the board are what doesn't make sense.

If the wire is shorted you blow the fuse as soon as you turn the power switch on but it will not blow the transistor.

Lemank

First you need to cut the diode off of the coil and check the coil for ohms. It should be @ 4ohms. Then check that the sleeve isn't melted and the plunger moves freely. Then install a new diode correctly on the coil. Then replace Q-68 and Q-69 on the CPU. Then check that the skirt isn't sticky and the switch is adjusted correctly. Remove J-18 and J-19 and power up the machine in attract mode. Hook up J-19 while watching the coil, if it locks on then turn it off. If it doesn't lock on then start a game, does it lock on now? If it doesn't lock on then connect J-18, does it lock on now? Let me know what happens.

This means you have a play field problem. Check for power on both lugs of the coil. No power on both means you need to look for a bad fuse or a broken power wire. Power on one lug only means the coil is bad. Power on both lugs means you have bad trigger wire going from the coil to J19 on the CPU board or a cracked header pin on the CPU.

Dc settings.

Game on, DMM on DC volts, black lead stuck under the ground braid and do test with the red lead. You can check a working coil to make sure you are doing it correctly.

How much and on both lugs of the coil?

If I am reading you correctly this is bad, but I thought you were have troubles with the kickers.

Before replacing the fuse disconnect 1J19 and check the ohms between ground and the metal tab of Q-69. Low ohms = a bad Q-69 transistor which will lock the coil on and burn the fuse.

It seems like you have a couple of problems at the same time. Repeat this test on Q-75

This is fine.

This doesn't sound correct. If you remove F-2 and F-4 from the power supply and turn on the game, what do you read for voltage on the F-2 fuse clip? Check for A/C and DC.

This looks like you have a bad bridge rectifier. You should be getting 37 volts dc and .75 ac. I think you have a shorted diode in the bridge. There are 2 bridges mounted against the metal back plane in the lower right corner of the back box. Remove the one with 2 red wires and a black and orange wire. Once removed you can retest it to know for sure but it looks as tho you need a new one, on a brighter note you were not getting full power to the coils and when fixed you will have a lot more power.

Pm me as I have one.

They may have been soldered also. When you get the wires off you need to test the bridge rectifier to make sure its truly bad.

Those are soldered.

I would just replace it as they are 4 dollars and cut off the crimp on connectors and solder wires directly to the new bridge. Clean the metal ground plane and add new heat sink compound to the bridge and remount it.

This bridge rectifier is the source of the power for all of the low power coils in the game. If you remove this then do NOT turn on the power until its replaced. Also I see that your game doesn't have the fuses installed for the bridge rectifiers yet. This was a error on Williams part and needs to be done as its a fire hazard.

You can get bridge rectifiers from PBL, Marcos, Bay area, Big Daddys and GPE.
I cut the red wire on the right for the top bridge and the blue wire on the right for the the bottom bridge @ 2 inches from the bridge. I then strip both ends of the wires and solder a fuse holder to the wires. Then I mount the fuse holder to the side of the back box with a screw. Then install a 8 amp SB fuse in each holder, no more fire hazard. Total cost 3.00.

This is the other problem
Disconnect 1J-19 to avoid melting the coil. Then power on the game and check 1J-18 pin 3 with your voltmeter with the connector still in place. What do you get?

That's good. Now measure voltage on U-45 pin 4 with the power on in attract mode.

Could this be milivolts?

If this is 156 milivolts than it's good. Then you will need to replace Q-70 (2n4401) and Q-71 (TIP102) and the diode (1n4007) on the coil.

Just my OCD here... check the solenoid power at the fuse for both AC and DC.

I bet they will be a lot better ^^^^ then these numbers.

When you remove the diode, check the ohms on the coil. 23-800 coils should read @ 4.2 ohms.

Ohms=not powered, volts=powered.

It's a higher voltage rating for the same price, use these on all coils and switches and power supplies.

Sounds great do you know which way to install a diode?

How do you know the last person installed it correctly?

You install a diode with the band facing the power wire. The power wire is shown on page 59 of the manual. It will be red or red/white wire.

This is almost 30% increase in power. Plug in J19, install a new fuse and turn on power and test it.

Do you need a pic or is this good enough... Red/white power wire... Blue/yellow control wire... Band on diode faces toward the power wire.

Which board?

Find out if its a power issue first by removing the 3 lamps and retesting.

This is AC powered so it doesn't matter which wire goes where.

The coil was locked on for some reason.

The fuse under the play field burned out.

Cut off one wire on the coil that was locked on then replace the fuse. Now you can troubleshoot the problem at hand.

Mount the head to the cabinet and pull the harness up thru the hole and we can start from there.

You need to check the switch input, a closed contact from a sling rubber being to tight or a shorted zener diode will cause this.

There is 7 or 8 coils on this fuse, you need to ohm each one and compare it to the coil resistance chart. One of these coils is drawing to much current.

Yes they can, its always best to remove the control wire from the coil for testing until the problem is solved. Once this is done you can check the switch input with a voltmeter. Install the sling rubber and check the 2 switches for adjustment. Then check for voltage on pin 12 of U-45 in attract mode, should be 5 volts DC then push on the sling rubber and the voltage should drop to zero volts. Then check the voltage on pin 11, it should be 2 volts and higher. Lastly check pin 13 and it should be below .8 volts DC. Let me know what you find.

To repair this 225.00 + labor so I would buy a LED display for your game. These can be had for 200.00 and less and should last your lifetime.

People don't normally resell these items unless they are parting a machine. You can order from PBL, BDE, Bay area amusments and Marcos.
Congrats on your purchase you will love it.

Now you have 2 broke down, will this cause more drinking? This sounds like a power supply issue or a slam tilt. Make sure both slam tilts have a large enough gap so to not cause accidental tilts. If that's not it then put a voltmeter on the 5 volt line and have someone watch it while you play a mutiball. If it drops below 4.8 volts on the CPU you will have resets. Also flip you meter to AC while on the 5 volts test point and see how AC is on the DC signal, should be less than .2 of a volt. Did you ever replace your BR?

The pins are a popping!!!

There is a slam tilt under the p/f around the flippers and on the coin door. The other tilts give a warning but a slam tilts kills the game just like a reset. The last pic is the coin reject coil, this will give you your quarter back if the game is turned off.

Maybe a broke pro.....

I'm thinking you will have 2 PS to rebuild now.

See page 60a of the manual (note 3).

One of two things can cause this,
#1 Q-74 is bad even tho is test good. I usually replace the predriver when I change the driver.
# 2 There is a broken trace between U-45 pin 13 and R-97.

This is very important while testing, if your not using the game then unplug 1J19 to remove the control wire.

Not needed, other tests can be done to confirm correct operation before plugging in 1J19.

Sure can, with 1J19 disconnected you need to start a game for the special solenoids. Then you can use a logic probe or a DMM and check the base leg of each special solenoid TIP transistors, they should be a low or zero volts. If you are reading voltage then the predriver is turned on or shorted and needs to be replaced. If your reading zero volts on the TIP base leg (transistor is off) then check resistance between ground and the metal tab or the corresponding pin on 1J19. There should be very high resistance if not the TIP is bad.

I didn't even get excited.

Glad to hear it.
Now play ball.

Do the #4 and #6 flashers on the playfield work?

Did the connector fall off the board after you installed it.

Correct, either remove the ground wire from each flasher board or remove both 330 ohm resistors from each flasher board.

Some 12 volt flasher bulbs are polarity sensitive and will not light when wired backward. So you should check to see if the center pin of the bulb socket has a positive DC voltage. If not the socket needs to be reversed on the board.

You need to both on every flasher board under the p/f and in the back box.

Flasher boards are only for the flashers bulbs and the standard bulbs will still work with out the warming resistors.

Get some paste flux, it will help.

Would this be the same segments on both displays #1 and #3?

To tell whether its the CPU or the display board, lock the displays on all 8s and check 1J1 pins 1-7 with your logic probe and see if they are all pulsing. If you find one that isn't pulsing then remove the connector and retest. If you still find one that is not pulsing then check src-7. If they all are pulsing then the display board needs testing.

Yes as long as the splice is good.

Diodes, yes a must. Silver band towards the purple/yellow wire.

I have install a 1.5 amp fuse on each of these coils on my game to stop this from happening.

Take a picture of the pop coil.

I would need a schematic for a RD board to be sure. Not sure what RD has changed from the original system 11A board.

Check U-19 pin 2 with a logic probe in attract mode, then start a game and see if it changes.

Yea I just got home from work and am getting ready to go to bed too. Using a logic probe is real easy and makes trouble shooting a breeze.

Have you read Terryb guide to logic probes?

I think this probe is only good for 12 volts systems such as automotive testing. I use something like this.
https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai=DChcSEwj1kvWz9_zUAhUOeH4KHcTyBT0YABAIGgJwYw&sig=AOD64_2C-Wbtibcd1CcDzK9rjRjT5rSPVg&ctype=5&q=&ved=0ahUKEwi5tNmz9_zUAhXo3YMKHWZdC6QQvhcILg&adurl=

You said earlier that the coil doesn't lock on until you start a game or diagnostics so this tells me that the FET Q-10 is fine. This is why I wanted you to get a logic probe.

Now that the mosfet is Q-10 and not Q-69 you will need to check a different driver chip.

What does U-11 pin 18 show in attract mode and in a game?

This should stay low until the skirt switch closes. Is this chip socketed?

This maybe where the problem is starting from. Doesn't RD boards only fire a coil once if a switch is stuck closed.

I'm back, check pin 9 of U-24 in attract mode and in a game.

Check pin 2 of U-11 in attract mode and in a game.