Did not notice if you got a response yet... Don't know off hand what to tell you about your high score but as far as the balls doubling up without firing, that is likely just a switch issue. In the wire frames that direct the balls, you will see a switch in each of them. You need to be sure that the ball actuates that switch when it flies by. Had the same issue on mine.

Yes...H Trim

Most likely to prevent an air ball from getting caught there.

On another note... I've completed, for now, my production of Space Station ramps, and about to start on the one I want to do for the F-14. While not technically a ramp I guess, it's the collector/diverter in the upper left hand corner. Plan at this point is to do it in dark transparent BLUE and dark transparent RED and then look to offering a lighting mod tied into the landing/lock on signals. Could also do it easily in clear if desired.

Me too!!...since I actually own one.

It will be a couple weeks probably. In exchange for my friend loaning me his Space Station I'm doing a few days restoration on it for him. Should be finished by the weekend then I will pull the F-14 apart and get started on it. I'll post photos as soon as I've formed one.

When I get ready I'll form both a red and a blue.

Yup... I want to see if I can do it without the cover anyway and lit up. I'll begin taking mine apart in the next couple days

Switch adjustment??

PM sent

OK...Here's my 2 cents... The most notable differences between early production and late production F-14's are the flashers on the back wall of the playfield...Early production they were clear and later production they were red. Additionally, the white beacon dome on the early production machines were clear and the later production they were frosted. I have owned several F-14's. I currently still have an early production machine but it is not here at my house. I believe it has just one screw. I do have a photo of one of my others that was a later production machine and it has all three screws. I recall that occasionally with my current machine (early production) that the kickback did not always come out clean....rattled up the lane. So my guess is that the later production machines have the 3 screws in an attempt to solidify that guide.

I like chrome...

Hmmm... I have new ramps available in clear, transparent blue or transparent red.

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I did post some photos here when I first made them. Very little light under that ramp since it was black. So in a couple of the shots I put a 12v LED strip....probably overkill but wanted to see it with some illumination.

Photos here...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f-14-tomcat-custom-ramps#post-3501958

Sending pm

That's how I did mine and it came out great. I certainly am no artist with an airbrush, but it is a great little spray gun.

Here's a photo of the front of my repainted F-14. Took this photo to show the repair I did to the front. This was done by slicing off the bad, then sectioning in a new piece of plywood along the bottom.

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If it is structurally sound, I'd give it a fresh coat of white paint on the front and call it a day!

You want them fairly tight. Otherwise they will gouge the cabinet. Nudging has nothing to do with how tight the legs are.

Nevermind...Seems you already have your answer.

Blue LED's will make those look good again.

Probably a stupid assumption, but do you have all 4 balls in the machine?

If it doesn't have 4 balls, it will likely start looking for the 4th ball which will screw everything up.

Uh, no.

The first games made were with a clear center beacon.....but as KSUWildcatFan says, while not blinding, is much brighter. What I had heard was that locations wanted it "toned down", so they switched to the translucent white.

Lot's of different ways to flatten plastic safely. I deal with a LOT of plastic. The key to not damaging them is to heat them slowly. A little heat....a little pause...a little heat...etc. The goal is to bring the whole plastic temperature up as evenly as possible. Once the plastic is warm enough it will lay flat easily. I have a glass top stove so generally do my flattening there. Once warm enough you just need to set something smooth on top of it and let it cool....like a piece of glass. I'd agree with @luckymoney. If at all nervous about doing this, use a hair dryer. A heat gun can get away from you. The plastic only needs to be about 140 degrees to be pliable. Just don't rush it.

The Blue Chevon playfield plastics up the right side are usually pretty washed out colorwise….Blue LED's really make them nice!

I did basically the same thing with my High Speed probably 8 or 9 years ago. 12VDC rotating light (used stock dome) and a bridge rectifier to convert the AC to DC. Has always worked perfectly.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/14-7946E

It's not like there are a lot of choices. This is the kind of piece that, if it's what you need, you should buy it. Often the way with pinball parts is, here today...gone tomorrow.

I have not personally used that motor as mine is fine. I did convert a 24vdc off the shelf beacon for my High Speed. Used a bridge rectifier to convert the 26vac to vdc. Has worked perfectly for 8 or 9 years.

Sorry, I couldn't resist this one. Several years ago at the NW Pinball Show, I was showing Steve Richie the new clear ramp I made for High Speed just before the show opened. After transporting from my home to the show, the game was slightly out of level which affected the plunger shot. Steve asked if I knew how they addressed that at the factory..... I replied, "No". He replied, "With a 2 by 4 and a hammer!"