(Topic ID: 66172)

F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.

By Hellfire

10 years ago


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  • Latest reply 14 hours ago by GRUMPY
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Topic index (key posts)

19 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #91 Insert color list Posted by jodini (10 years ago)

Post #98 Video - Add red flashers back to light show. Posted by Patofnaud (10 years ago)

Post #163 Technical Sheet - Matrix, etc. Posted by Snux (10 years ago)

Post #205 Speaker Panel - Early model= glue Posted by IceCreamMan (10 years ago)

Post #406 Pop bumper cap replacement. Posted by Fifty (9 years ago)

Post #466 Bulletproof - rectifier fuses Posted by Snux (9 years ago)

Post #477 Removing warming resistors Posted by Jumping-Box (9 years ago)

Post #513 Cliffy Flipper Frames Posted by Xenon75 (9 years ago)

Post #569 How to increase Bonus Posted by wayout440 (9 years ago)

Post #747 Pinball Cards Posted by agodfrey (9 years ago)


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#2988 6 years ago

I have a problem with my flashers that is driving me crazy. The controlled flashers work fine, but the switched flashers are messed up. When running the coil test, flashers 1 and 5 light simultaneously for each of the switched flashers, but none others light. As mentioned, the controlled flashers test fine. I have done the following:

* Several of the resistor boards were a mess. All have been repaired and new resistors were added as necessary.
* Swapped in an MPU from a different game. Same result.
* Checked the multiplexing relay. Is is working fine. Its normal state is not to be energized.
* Tested all of the diodes on the diode board. All test fine.

There is no voltage at any of the resistor boards connected to the switched flashers until the multiplexing relay is switched. Is that correct? The resistor boards connected to the controlled flashers have voltage and the small resistors are appropriately hot (very hot).

Any help or magic would be appreciated.

#2990 6 years ago

Yes. Likewise, if I run the test for 2c, 3c, 4c, 6c, or 7c, they don't light but for each one tested both 1c and 5c light simultaneously. Flashers 9, 10 and the backbox flashers (controlled, not switched) work just fine during the test.

#2991 6 years ago
Quoted from FiatsRUs:

I have a problem with my flashers that is driving me crazy. The controlled flashers work fine, but the switched flashers are messed up.

SOLVED. I had natural white LED flasher bulbs in 1c and 5c (the ones with clear lenses) and incandescent #89s in the rest of the switched flashers (the ones with colored lenses). On F14 Tomcat, the switching relay is set to the "a" coils until switched for use with any one of the switched flashers. That means there is no voltage to the 330ohm resistors on the resistor boards (they are all cool to the touch). I don't know the science of the electricity flow other than to say it all now works fine with nothing but incandescent 89 bulbs in all of the switched flashers.

Has anyone every mixed LEDs and 89s before with this result? Do LED flashers work in this game for the switched flashers?

#2993 6 years ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Yes, if there is 2 bulbs on the circuit and 1 is led and the other is incandescent no harm no foul. If only 1 bulb then the warming resistor or ground wire needs to be removed from the flasher board for this circuit for the led to work properly.

Switched or controlled no problem with leds if you remove the warming resistor or ground wire for the circuit you are installing leds.
Remember each flasher board is 2 circuits, and not all of the circuits are being used.

Great info. Thanks!

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