Just started a tech thread for an F14 I got called out to look at.
Thought I would post the link here in case any of you System 11 experts can help me out.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f14-burnt-coil-and-other-questions

So very true.
In one night (Last night), he had me build a power connector from an old PC power supply and a 9 pin IDC connector so I could power up a customers F14 board on my dining room table and test my 7402 IC chip.
Truly a man who goes above and beyond the call of duty here.
Thanks Grumpy.
I will be driving the board back over to install tonight if the weather holds out.

Finally joined the club yesterday. After helping fix an F14 one town over from my a few months ago I finally came across another one for sale as a project. It is indeed a project, but I should be able to get it working eventually. The seller says the displays work and the game plays but he robbed three molex connectors from the backbox that I have to rewire. It is missing 3 rollover switches. The coin door buttons are messed up and the usual divertor coils are a problem. I think that is the worst of it.
It has the usual mylar bubbling over the inserts.
I will no doubt eventually start my own tech thread once I dive deeper into it.
Here are a few photos.

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Just started my tech thread. Here is a direct link to it.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f14-switch-help-and-wiring-help-needed

What I really need are two photos.
The underside of the ball trough area showing the switches and how they are wired.
And one of the plugs on the power board showing the wiring order. I believe it is 3J3.
The photos is the thread show exactly what I need.

Then if anyone knows where to get the switches from that I need, that would be awesome. None of the part numbers from the manual show in stock anywhere.
Thanks.

Just fired up my project F-14 for the first time. (Had a lot of issues to tackle first)
Good news it boots up.
But I noticed that two of the little square segments on the display are not on.
One in the top left and one in the bottom left.
What should I check first to maybe get these working again?
All the rest of the segments are bright and good.

Thanks wayout440.

Yes. One on top the other

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Yes. Extension cord is the only way to get power to the games in the work area.
The room has 16 pinball machines in it so I can't get it near an outlet when I work on them.
It is grounded though. I have never had an issue with this in over 25 years of repairing games.

If someone could take some close up photos of how these two diverter coils should be wired up and oriented it would help me a lot.
Looks like from the photo below someone has put the coils on upside down and spliced into the purple/yellow wire to only have to run one Purple/yellow to each coil. (Will that work?)
Also are these coils supposed to have diodes or no diodes.
Photos of a working games diverter coils are really needed.
I have two new coils with diodes, just don't want to install wrong. I already have to replace the tip and pre driver.

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Thanks Grumpy.
Awesome info.
I have 3 pulled out switches I am replacing now. But when I'm done with them I will tackle the two diverter coils and the display segments

Been there, done that. lol
We once got a Xenon that someone had wired the plug up backwards. (they had put the ground on a hot prong)
It actually worked until you accidentally leaned on two machines next to each other.

Thanks for the photos.
I have mine situated correct now but close up photos like this always help.
I have noticed they used Red/White wires on some F-14's and on others like mine they used a Violet/yellow wire.
I have already flipped my coils over because they were indeed installed upside down and replaced them with new coils with diodes.
Have not gotten to test them out yet because the CPU was a mess behind the Q77 and Q79 area. So much so that it was beyond my repair ability. So I am waiting for it to come back in the mail soon.

Wow. What a bizarre coincidence.

I use that same IDC connector. lol
It is indeed hard on the hands.
We had 4, 9 pin IDC connectors that were clipped off our F-14.
My brother and I traded off after each connector because our arms were killing us.
We did make the process easier by using a small piece of wood in our other hand to press against.
But sometimes the wires were so short it was a real magic act to get it done.

Just got my F14 to boot up and start a game with special thanks to Chris Hibler.
But since I do not want to bother him on his personal phone any more then necessary I figured I would post my new issue here for Grumpy and the rest.

My game now starts up and will kick out a ball to start a game. Yes!!! Finally getting somewhere.

But while most game switches and coils work, I have no flippers, pop bumper or slings. (All fuses tested)
Chris had me ground out a small diode on the MPU board to see if it brought back power to the flippers.
It is the first diode D3 above the large flipper relay dome in the photo. I believe he called it a 2N3904.
And success, it worked!!!
If I keep the left side of that diode grounded I get my flippers back.

But that is where we left off.
What should my next steps be to get the game playing fully?

Any ideas appreciated.

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No but when we plunged the ball it was diverted by one of them.
They are new coils and the CPU board was repaired by Chris a few weeks ago.
We can check the voltage sometime tomorrow. Not near the game at the moment.

Just a multimeter.
I will get back to the game soon but kinda stuck in what's left of Hurricane Harvey at the moment.
We had 7" of rain fall last night.
Beaumont is flooded pretty good right now.
It is not as bad as Houston which is close by but we could get in that situation fast.

This is the road my business is located on here in Beaumont.

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Had a few min.
Both diverter coils are working great. I was able to lock all balls and start a multiball.
Just found U50.
Noticed that every time I press on it the relay above it clicks.

Here is a photo of U50.
Since I don't want to screw anything up which pin is 10 ?
Guessing third from left on bottom row of photo.
The white dot on the board is on the top right pin just like the chip to the left shows.

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Weather is crazy and only going to get worse until Thurs or Friday.
Hoping for the best but the damn storm is heading back out into the gulf and then straight into Houston. Thank god we all have flood insurance but not looking forward to a drowned house which could easily happen now.
On the bright side we are stuck at home with electricity and pinball machines.

So--- resolder the back of the socket?
Replace the socket?
Or bend the legs out a little bit on the chip and reinsert?

Thanks grumpy.
We got over 5" more of rain last night.
Still stunned at how insane this weather event is.

You guys are awesome with all of your help with games.
Much appreciated.

Thanks Grumpy.

Ok had time to pull U50 bend the pins a bit and re seat.
Now my flippers are working again!!!!
Very happy camper.
Only 3 issues left.

1. No slingshot scoring or sling coil activity.
2. No pop bumper.
3. One entire segment out on player 1 and player 3. Same segment on both, they are stacked one on top the other.
It is the 5th segment from the left on each.

Will have time for 1 and 2 later. Hoping it is just wiring or switch issue.
Edit... All wiring, diodes and coils look good on both slings and pop.

As usual, Awesome info Grumpy.
Thanks.

And just to make sure I am counting my pins correctly, from my photo above pin 6 would be the second pin from the left on the top row of U50. Correct?
If my memory is right on this you count from the white dot on the board, notched end of the chip and go all the way around.

I was extremely lucky with high water.
All machines are still good. Just way to busy helping feed the National Guard and helping others to work on games now.
My cousin lost all 5 of his pins with water up to his attic.
Then to top it all off both of our city water pumps failed last night in a river that is now 16 feet over flood stage.
The sky is filled with helicopters rescuing people and evacuating one of our hospitals. It is all so very surreal.

Both F-14s I have worked out had burnt diverter coils and well as the coresponding transistors and pre drivers.

Almost has to be a switch gapped to close.
With 4 flippers on this game it could be almost anywhere.
How about the pop bumper. Sometimes that gets to close simply from gravity.
I would certainly check any gap on switches near a flipper.

Finally have some time to work on my game again.
Everything is working great but the pop and slings.
When I turn on the game it tells me to check pop and sling switches.
I pulled every switch out and checked for shorts or missing parts.
I found the left sling had it's 25v cap with a leg missing so I replaced the cap.
Still no luck though. Game plays great but refuses to activate those three coils.

Both under playfield fuses are good and do not blow out.
If there are more then two then the one I can't find may be my problem.
I have located one by the left flipper which I assume are for the flippers.
And a second all the way down at the bottom right side when the playfield is lifted.

I did not remove any ground wires. The only LED flashers I have installed are under the large round clear window in the center of the playfield. All the rest of the flashers I have not messed with yet.
Where are the resistor boards so I can check if someone else may have done that?
The two led flashers in the round window do work though.

Thanks Grumpy

Done.
All spots on J18 behave as described. 4.8 volts then drop to zero when pressed.

Not exactly sure how to test coil power. But by grounding each wire on the three coils while In attract mode I get 1.5 volts.
Grounding the transistors while in attract mode does not fire the coils.

Thanks again.
Leaving for Florida in the morning so I will get back to this next weekend.

Awesome Tim. Congrats.
Paid $500 for ours Enjoying it a lot.
Fun game to fix up.