(Topic ID: 66172)

F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.

By Hellfire

7 years ago


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  • 4,898 posts
  • 392 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 13 hours ago by Coyohtay
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19 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 4898 posts in this topic. You are on page 98 of 98.
#4851 64 days ago

Just picked up this beauty today. Nice players condition. Owner said it hasn’t worked in 4 years. Got it home and changed out the batteries and it fired right up. A good check over and cleaning and it’s ready for the basement. $775

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#4852 64 days ago
Quoted from ringonu:

Just picked up this beauty today. Nice players condition. Owner said it hasn’t worked in 4 years. Got it home and changed out the batteries and it fired right up. A good check over and cleaning and it’s ready for the basement. $775
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice score!!!

#4853 64 days ago

Good price. Mine was pending for $2500 and I change my mind....

#4854 62 days ago

2 questions,

1)
Are these sides stickers: launch (right) & diverters (left) still available somewhere ? Unfortunetly André Gagnon (designer) doesn't reply...

2)
I have 2 cables just hanging around... White/Violet. associated to a number of switches in the matrix but all switches seem to work fine...
Any idea how/where these should be connected to? or just to each other ?

Just near it I have 2 orange ones as well, soldered to each other...
cables (resized).jpg

#4855 62 days ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

2 questions,
2)
I have 2 cables just hanging around... White/Violet. associated to a number of switches in the matrix but all switches seem to work fine...
Any idea how/where these should be connected to? or just to each other ?
Just near it I have 2 orange ones as well, soldered to each other...
[quoted image]

Those wires are for the flashers behind the standup targets. A Williams service bulletin (https://www.ipdb.org/files/804/Williams_1987_F_14_Tomcat_Service_Bulletin_41.pdf) said to disconnect those flashers because they could short out the switch matrix.

If you want you can reinstall them: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/returning-f14-flashers-to-original-design-vids-guide

#4856 62 days ago
Quoted from koen12344:

Those wires are for the flashers behind the standup targets. A Williams service bulletin (https://www.ipdb.org/files/804/Williams_1987_F_14_Tomcat_Service_Bulletin_41.pdf) said to disconnect those flashers because they could short out the switch matrix.
If you want you can reinstall them: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/returning-f14-flashers-to-original-design-vids-guide

Thx ! Strang thing is I only see 2 cables while on the drawing it should be 3 and 2 of these 3 should be bundled together... I'll Have a closer look but do you think bundling 2 is a must if I find the 3th one? And whcich 2 to bundle, will than be the next question

#4857 62 days ago
Quoted from koen12344:Nonono, just the little circuit board with the lamps on it that you took the picture of. The diodes are on the backside.

Quoted from FLASHBALL:

On the back side of this board... there should be a diode right about where this arrow is.
[quoted image]
**Edit** if you replace the diode. Make sure you pay attention to which direction the grey band is facing.
Also, sometimes these lamps create a small divot in the resting place when its locked. Applying solder and filling the divot can sometimes fix this issue as well.

Thank you guys for helping me out. That's what it was and now it's fixed!

#4858 58 days ago

I have some issues on both my alphanumeric displays. (not on the bottom numeric ones)
I got some jitter during a couple of minutes, partial parts of the display are blinking/illuminated (see pics)
After a while it's gone ...

Swapped it for a partially defective Big guns display (only player 2 is still working and when used it on F14 I didn't have the issue on this alphanumeric display)

My logic says if it works fine on another display the main boards in the pinball are fine and problem must be on the display themselves or IC's processing and sending data to them on the display board..

It's like they (IC's or displays) needs to heat up a bit first...

I already got some good feedback from other pinside members (thx for that !!) but ideas were mainly focussed on possible pinball/backbox PCB problems as source of the issue. Which in my opinion doesn't seems to be the source based on what i just wrote....

Anyone some fresh ideas?

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#4859 58 days ago

still in need of a 7 digit/segment display p/n 5670-09439-00. interested in single glass or partial/complete working display board. let me know, thanks

#4860 56 days ago

Looking for a spot to get an inexpensive cabinet speaker. Nothing fancy as she is a players condition game. Just looking to replace a damaged one.

#4861 55 days ago

Anyone here ever get message U10 PIA Failure on power up? It does this then makes the bong sound again then boots and plays fine.

Wondering if my U10 chip might possibly be on its way out?

#4862 54 days ago

Little more research lead me to this link, which has some helpful info. Just posting for anyone else that might run into this U10 PIA failure.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/u10-pia-failure-where-to-find-and-replacement-repair-advice

#4863 54 days ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Little more research lead me to this link, which has some helpful info. Just posting for anyone else that might run into this U10 PIA failure.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/u10-pia-failure-where-to-find-and-replacement-repair-advice

So what fixed your issue? the +5v or the PIA?

#4864 54 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

So what fixed your issue? the +5v or the PIA?

I havent done anything but reseat the chip so far. But I have already rebuilt my power supply and my 5v is solid so Im leaning towards PIA.

#4865 51 days ago

F-14 Crew,
Needing some ideas on a spinner gate problem. When the ball hits the right spinner, about 75% of the time, the ball doesn't make it through and just rolls back into play. I've looked at it and frankly I'm not sure how to adjust how it hangs without messing up the switch position. That switch has been giving me fits previously and so I'm at a point where the switch is only activated when hit (as intended) but the ball just gets jumbled up in it and doesn't go through. it appears to hang correctly, but just doesn't want to spin very easily.

Any thoughts, advice, ideas???
Thanks all,
BH

#4866 51 days ago
Quoted from Bigghauss:

F-14 Crew,
Needing some ideas on a spinner gate problem. When the ball hits the right spinner, about 75% of the time, the ball doesn't make it through and just rolls back into play. I've looked at it and frankly I'm not sure how to adjust how it hangs without messing up the switch position. That switch has been giving me fits previously and so I'm at a point where the switch is only activated when hit (as intended) but the ball just gets jumbled up in it and doesn't go through. it appears to hang correctly, but just doesn't want to spin very easily.
Any thoughts, advice, ideas???
Thanks all,
BH

I worked on a friends Tomcat a while back that had a similar problem. His spinner leaned back a little in the resting position so I was able to tweak the spinners arms up a bit and allow it to sit a little more flat facing.

This may not be your case but Ive found that a slow motion video will usually reveal things you cant always catch in real time.

Post a picture of the spinner at rest and lets see if anything sticks out.

#4867 51 days ago

So what specifically would I tweak or adjust?

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#4868 51 days ago

It may be just a bad angle, but it looks like the arm that goes through the playfield is bent and rubbing against that metal guide.

If it were me I'd start looking there. If its bent, pull the arm off completely and straighten it out, then make sure it has a little space and is not touching anything nearby when you reinstall.

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#4869 51 days ago

Hmmm....it is bent. See, when I got the machine, that wireform was missing, but the switch wire had a bend. When I put the wireform in, that bend seemed to go around the wireform. I'm not sure how it should be, straight or bent. If straight, it hits the wireform. I wonder, the ball always got stuck there...perhaps the ball hitting it when the wireform was missing is what deformed it???

Maybe I need to move it laterally on the shaft??? Can I see others setup?

#4870 50 days ago
Quoted from Bigghauss:

Maybe I need to move it laterally on the shaft??? Can I see others setup?

The little white bushings on the shaft are there to help keep the rod where you like.

Here's mine.

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2 weeks later
#4871 36 days ago

Just added a Pinshaker to my F14. Not sure I would recommend it. Not plug & play which I knew going in. Also the triggers are very limited for this machine. Still adds a bit to it and luckily I got my pin on a steal so adding some mods is no big deal. Just wanted to provide some feedback.

#4872 36 days ago

I posted this in the tech threads but thought I’d add it here as well.

I am wanting to add a button battery holder on my tomcat. Does anyone know if it requires a blocking diode to be installed with it? I’ve been looking all over a pin wiki but it’s not clear whether or not I need one.

Thx

#4873 36 days ago
Quoted from Pauz21:

I am wanting to add a button battery holder on my tomcat. Does anyone know if it requires a blocking diode to be installed with it? I’ve been looking all over a pin wiki but it’s not clear whether or not I need one.

There is one on the mpu board already because the original batteries were normal AA. If someone had some other kind of setup in the game though double check. IIRC it's either D1 or D2.

#4874 35 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

There is one on the mpu board already because the original batteries were normal AA. If someone had some other kind of setup in the game though double check. IIRC it's either D1 or D2.

https://www.tntamusementsstore.com/wptnt/product/franks-famous-battery-board/

This worked on my F-14. I since replaced with NVRAM.

#4875 35 days ago

Recently the switch for my yagov kicker has become very intermittent. Ive tried adjusting it and cant get it to register with the ball. I cleaned the switch contacts with a dollar bill and they were pretty dirty. But even though I can see the switch move when the ball hits the wire, its still not registering.

Thoughts? Ideas?

#4876 34 days ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

cently the switch for my yagov kicker has become very intermittent. Ive tried adjusting it and cant get it to register with the ball. I cleaned the switch contacts with a dollar bill and they were pretty dirty. But even though I can see the switch move when the ball hits the wire, its still not registering.
Thoughts? Ideas?

I’ve got the same thing going on and haven’t yet attended to the problem. The best fix is to just replace the switch outright. The metal arms can get fatigued and break if you bend them too much, dirt may be causing the switch to stick, any number of things. It’s a pain to correct since it’s way in the back and Sys11 games use that delightful single pivot point for under playfield access, but you’d be in there to do anything else as well. I’m planning to just clip off the old switch and solder in a new one and bet that fixes the problem.

#4877 34 days ago
Quoted from sethbenjamin:

I’ve got the same thing going on and haven’t yet attended to the problem. The best fix is to just replace the switch outright. The metal arms can get fatigued and break if you bend them too much, dirt may be causing the switch to stick, any number of things. It’s a pain to correct since it’s way in the back and Sys11 games use that delightful single pivot point for under playfield access, but you’d be in there to do anything else as well. I’m planning to just clip off the old switch and solder in a new one and bet that fixes the problem.

Good plan. I probably have a new one already anyway. I'll swap it out and report my findings.

#4878 30 days ago

I ordered a set of insert decals at classicarcade on 05/19 but never got them !! Ebay just authorized a full refund.

I saw planetarypinball as them as well but saw posts saying the quality is not so good. Anyone has experience with these or knows another (better quality) source to get them ? (located in Europe but US is fine, if they ship it out )

#4879 27 days ago

Hi just joined the club! Excited, love playing this game so glad to have one at home. Such a fast game!

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#4880 21 days ago

So working on a friends F14 tomcat today. We stumbled across a strange one. When in coil test the top diverter works fine every time. But when in game the lower 2 will lock but when the third ball is ready to lock the top diverter never comes out.

Anyone have any ideas why this would happen?

Thanks.

#4881 21 days ago

I had to put a piece of electrical tape between the two diverters. The lower diverter was magnetizing the upper based on a post I saw. After the electrical tape fix it’s worked perfect. There’s a service bulletin out there somewhere on this.

#4882 20 days ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

So working on a friends F14 tomcat today. We stumbled across a strange one. When in coil test the top diverter works fine every time. But when in game the lower 2 will lock but when the third ball is ready to lock the top diverter never comes out.
Anyone have any ideas why this would happen?
Thanks.

Did you test the switches in the lock and wire ramp of the second diverter? It may not be registering that there is a ball in there

#4883 20 days ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

I ordered a set of insert decals at classicarcade on 05/19 but never got them !! Ebay just authorized a full refund.
I saw planetarypinball as them as well but saw posts saying the quality is not so good. Anyone has experience with these or knows another (better quality) source to get them ? (located in Europe but US is fine, if they ship it out )

I have half set. I’m happy with the ones I used. Interested in buying let me know. I can’t remember where I got them.

#4884 20 days ago
Quoted from koen12344:

Did you test the switches in the lock and wire ramp of the second diverter? It may not be registering that there is a ball in there

Yes. Tested each switch. Not only the ones in the ball guides, but also the switches down in the locks too. Also just for clarification, during gameplay the first two red lights on the diverter after locking stay solid, and are no longer flashing.

We were really hoping the magnetism was the issue. After messing with the diverter plunger underneath trying to feel any magnetic cling... it is working better than it was but still only about 50%...

The search continues.

#4885 15 days ago

Had this for about 10 years now; but sadly termites got to the box so had someone make a box then gutted the original and built this back up. Never looked better with the new LEDS ; even had the S/n reproduced.

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#4886 13 days ago

Anyone ever had the Varistor on the power supply go bad? Im trying to find why my solenoid fuse keeps blowing so I started repinning one wire at a time on the power connector. I repinned one wire and power on and realize this Varistor is arcing.

Ive only ever heard of big power surges blowing the Varistor in the line fuse box.

Never come across this before. Ideas?

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#4887 12 days ago

Thats pretty crazy. Are you sure there is nothing sticking out of the board in the back touching the metal? The standoffs are high enough for everything to clear?

#4888 12 days ago

The varistor is there to protect against a too high solenoid voltage.
Sometimes they go bad.
Just replace it.
Check your voltage.
Check the rectifier (in the backbox) and put a fuse in line.
Or use a Bridge Board.

#4889 11 days ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

The varistor is there to protect against a too high solenoid voltage.

Seems that was likely the case, behind the MPU was evidence of previous extreme damage at the special solenoid drive transistors.
20210721_110002 (resized).jpg

I replaced the vairstor and tried power, both diverters locked on.

I pulled the MPU today and found the 2 diverter transistors were shorted. Installed 2 new tip102s in their place and popped the board back in. This time the lower diverter locked on. I probed the drive chip at U50 and sure enough its bad.

Tomorrow's project will be to remove U50(7402) socket, and replace.
received_2984524715150254 (resized).jpeg

Hopefully this will get it back up and running again for my friend.

#4890 11 days ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Seems that was likely the case, behind the MPU was evidence of previous extreme damage at the special solenoid drive transistors.
[quoted image]
I replaced the vairstor and tried power, both diverters locked on.
I pulled the MPU today and found the 2 diverter transistors were shorted. Installed 2 new tip102s in their place and popped the board back in. This time the lower diverter locked on. I probed the drive chip at U50 and sure enough its bad.
Tomorrow's project will be to remove U50(7402) socket, and replace.
[quoted image]
Hopefully this will get it back up and running again for my friend.

You should have replaced the predrivers too, and then tested.

#4891 11 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

You should have replaced the predrivers too, and then tested.

Honestly, I don't know why I didn't. I have them on hand, they just weren't right next to me at the time. When I pull the board tomorrow for the chip replacement I'll change those out too.

#4892 10 days ago
Quoted from rvermeire:

I ordered a set of insert decals at classicarcade on 05/19 but never got them !! Ebay just authorized a full refund.
I saw planetarypinball as them as well but saw posts saying the quality is not so good. Anyone has experience with these or knows another (better quality) source to get them ? (located in Europe but US is fine, if they ship it out )

If you buy the ones from PPS, you can scan them and make waterslide decals off the scans, and just ditch the original sheet.

#4893 10 days ago

I put the F-14 Insert Decal Set - Non-LAMINATED on my F-14 from Planetary Pinball and I thought the result looked great. I'm not a stickler for accuracy though. My inserts were awful when I got the machine and removing the mylar removed what was left so I was happy to have them all readable again. Prepping the inserts is incredibly important. I even screwed up one decal and they sent a replacement right away for free.

#4894 10 days ago

Well, no success today. Socketed and replaced the 7402 installed new predriver transistors. Put the board in and all seemed fine. Ran a solenoid test and when it got to the diverters one diverter locked on again. I immediately shut off the power.

The coils are new and are wired exactly like my machine. So I dont understand whats going on here...

Tested the Tip102s both are good on one leg bad on the other. Tested the new chip with a logic probe and it appears to be bad again too.

Disappointing.

What should I look for next?

#4895 8 days ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Well, no success today. Socketed and replaced the 7402 installed new predriver transistors. Put the board in and all seemed fine. Ran a solenoid test and when it got to the diverters one diverter locked on again. I immediately shut off the power.
The coils are new and are wired exactly like my machine. So I dont understand whats going on here...
Tested the Tip102s both are good on one leg bad on the other. Tested the new chip with a logic probe and it appears to be bad again too.
Disappointing.
What should I look for next?

Is there a diode on the coil?
Is it good?
Just replace it anyway as it is only a few cents part.

#4896 8 days ago
Quoted from Inkochnito:

Is there a diode on the coil?
Is it good?
Just replace it anyway as it is only a few cents part.

Didnt think to change them ill swap them and try it all over again.

#4897 8 days ago

Looking for some Help, Matrix help.

Few weeks ago, I started getting a switch error on boot up. It would clear, didn't pay much attention to it. Then the game started tilting whenever the upper targets were hit. Left side would tilt machine, Right side would put it back to just an ended game.

Did switch edge test to see what was going on.

All of the column 7 switches would show as column 8 switches, same row as the switch in column 7, as being activated. The reverse, activating Column 8 switch would show the correct switch activating.

Disconnected the ribbon cable to the pcb, and pinned out the switches, and same thing happened. So this tells me there isn't anything wrong on the play field, but something wrong on the PCB.

With column 7 showing as column 8 switches Except Column 7 row 8 does show the correct switch. I am assuming this is because Column 8 row 8 is unused in the matrix.

So where do I go from here? Ideas??

1 week later
#4898 13 hours ago

Hey everyone, got a new issue that cropped up. A couple times we have had a good game going in a multiball mode. With one ball still in play it, it ends the game and goes to the high score initial entry, flippers still hot and you can bat the ball around but the game is done.

Flakey trough switches?

There are 4898 posts in this topic. You are on page 98 of 98.

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