Test point one. 4.9vdc.
#2. I’m assuming is ground. I got nothing. (I was grounding on the screw on the edge of the board)
#3. 12vdc.
#4. -14vdc.

As for scr6 on cpu... is it labelled as that? Can’t seem to find it.

SCR6.

image (resized).jpg

Thanks will pay attention to that and see

4.9 volts is border line, maybe you could have someone play a multiball while you watch this test point to see if it drops lower under hard play.

Your SRC6 may have been replaced, hard to tell, but still looks very old. SRCs have resistors and capacitors inside. Its a known problem for the capacitors to fail causing erroneous switch closures like tilts. So we have been replacing this part with one with out the capacitors.

https://www.greatplainselectronics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=4609X-101-102

Speakers will only play what they are told, they are not smart enough to pick and choose the sounds they play. It sounds like a cable or a chip without a solid connection to me

Sometimes just removing and reconnecting will fix the issue. It is also possible you are having a sound board issue.

Greg

Need help. I was changing out my rom chips today to the latest release and did so making sure all legs were in place before turning on the machine. I turned it on and the 2.5 amp slo blow fuse blew the beacons on top started turning and that was it. I turned off the machine, changed the roms back to the original ones replaced the fuse and turned it on and nothing but some G.I. lights come on. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Actually changed back to the original roms and all worked as it should

Issue solved. Wait for the sound notification then start all is well.

Thanks

Having another sound issue. I replace the rom in the game with the l-1 rom from matts basement arcade. The rom world fine but the call outs aren’t happening correctly and sometimes it doesn’t say “I’m locked on” or yagov starts saying “you can’t win” bit it’s cuts off and he stops. The correct sound isn’t playing when you light Tom cat mostly no sound just a jet engine reving.
Secondly I noticed that the U10 chip wasn’t seated correctly so I removed it and the legs were so brittle that one broke off one was bent and when I put it back in place it broke. So now the game is dead until I get a replacement 6821 chip.

Any suggestions on the callouts not finishing or being right. I put the initial rom back in and it is now doing the same thing with the call outs. That was before the U10 chip disaster.

Anyone need mylar for the playfield? I ordered this one from Marco in 2019 and since have sold the game.

$28 shipped.

Had a crazy awesome game tonight! Definitely my best game to date on any F14. 4 multiballs and 3 extra balls.

received_219629579860877 (resized).jpeg

So I noticed a potential issue with my game while installing a mod that toyotaboy made for me. I'll post that mod up at a later time to show everyone his handywork but first....
Back to the issue. When I tapped in to the coin inserts for the constant 6.3v I noticed that when the attract mode or the beacons came on that both coin insert lights shut off for the length of time that the beacons were on and or the attract mode was active.
Basically voltage dropped or was diverted during the other stuff going on. Once the beacons stop or the attract mode sequence is over then they(coin insert lights) pop right back on and 6.3 voltage is present again. I probably would have never noticed this had I not been trying to find a constant 6.3v leading me to the coin insert lighting.
Further along, I figured I'd outsmart the game and turn off my beacons in attract and sound in attract mode. I hooked up the mod and attempted to use the 6.3 tap anyhow and it worked fine until.....
The game was over and the "now you die" sequence came on with the game over music. Once again noticing the familiar coin door lights going out and my mod rebooting. Crap.
Let the mod boot up and played another game. As I went to lock a ball in the launch saucer (gi's cutting out and crazy light sequence happening) after completing TOMCAT, the voltage must've dropped again and the mod rebooted during actual game play.
I found a post by grumpy that was somewhat similar in theory and points to a snubber board https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f14-tomcat-owners-club-fans-also-welcome/page/77#post-5029921 and thought if this is in fact a glitch then should I be looking for a snubber board issue as well.
Or is this normal when certain things happen during the game where it transfers or regulates voltage or cuts the gi's out during certain scenarios. ie: part of the programming?
Anyway, some confirmation that I have an issue or don't is what I'm looking for.
With the exception of the visual queue alerting me to a potential issue , the game seems to function 100% during play. I don't think I would've discovered it had I not been wanting to use that coin 6.3vac.
Thank you in advance and hope everyone has a great weekend.
r/
Mike

Yes, this a normal sequence of the GI lights. If you don't want it to happen then disconnect the 2 wire connector next to the GI connector on the power supply.

Otherwise I can show you a different place to connect to for 6.3 volts that is always on when the game is on.

I would gladly take another location rather than modify existing setup.
Thank you for your assistance
r/
Mike

full disclosure. it's actually dc voltage that ultimately is needed. the 6.3 is being converted by a bridge rectifier then into a little outlet box that is normally off until the voltage trips it on. basically turn the game on and the little video screen Joe made me turns on with the game. Joe gave me some 5vdc input suggestions to tap into in the back box but was hoping to use the little wired contraption Joe made using 2 alligator clips to the 6.3v source and then converting it to the dc needed to switch on the box.
hope that makes sense.
coin insert lighting was convenient. one clip to one wire one clipped to the other wire on the gi housing.

Do you have the tools to crimp molex pins?

I do not. Was hoping harbor freight had a cheapy but they don't appear to.

I can make you one if you want. Where does the mod end up at?

It's a video monitor on the upper playfield in between the spinner and the launch orbit. It sits right on top of the right flipper plastic. I've wired the mod and its secure there. It's the 6.3v tap converting to dc power, plugged in to the outlet strip that powers the mod, where I need this wire setup.
I'll take pictures of the peripherals and post them up.
I think pictures can explain stuff better than I can.
Give me a little bit.
Thank you.
r/
Mike

How about a pic of the connector on the 6.3 volt tap that you are using so I can make you a new one.

Maybe I'm not explaining myself well. The mod and everything with it works 100%. The issue is the voltage not remaining constant on the coin door insert lights when the gi cuts out or a sequence involving the beacon or attract mode. When this stuff happens it reboots my video screen.

I'm not using a connector. I'm using alligator clips from a harness Joe made clipped on to the coin insert lights and they work fine. The issue is that I need a 100% constant 6.3vac or a direct dc source that never shuts off no matter what the game is doing. That dc voltage fires the normally off switch on the outlets for continuous video.
Let me get those pictures.

This is what I need a pic of.

Here we go. 1st pic is the mod. It's wired up and works 5x5.
20210214_170549 (Medium) (resized).jpg

2nd and 3rd shot is the green clips attached to the coin insert light and the wire travelling to the outlet strip. I need this constant 6.3 to travel through the bridge rectifier and then the resulting dc voltage will make the switch inside the outlet strip and power the mod on when I turn the game power switch on. The idea is I don't have to go in the coin door and manually flip the outlet switch every time if I plug it in the normally on outlet(also on the black box) This is actually an ok option If I can't find a constant 6.3v source that never flinches.
20210214_170824 (Medium) (resized).jpg20210214_170848 (Medium) (resized).jpg

4th pic is the connector going in to the black outlet box that makes the normally off switch flip from off to on when it recognizes the dc voltage.
20210214_170858 (Medium) (resized).jpg

5th pic is the outlet strip and will probably help explain what I'm failing to do in written form. If I were to take that plug and plug it in the normally on outlet the mod works mint all the time and never glitches because it has constant power at all times. The minor drawback to that is I have to reach in the coin door and flip the box red switch when I turn the game on and turn the game off. So with Joes cable he made me I can just plug the green connector in and flip the red switch on the black box and when I power the game on and off everything follows with it.
20210214_170904 (Medium) (resized).jpg

Last pic is the power supply which,of course carries the power from the black box to the mod. None of that needs tampering.20210214_170917 (Medium) (resized).jpg

Sorry. I was already in too deep to turn back.

I think you took the long way around the block on this one.

May I make a small suggestion?

Of course. Fire away.

If the service outlet inside the cabinet were to turn on and off, then you would be able to plug in the power supply directly to the service outlet and do away without all the other stuff.

I understand this, but wouldn't that leave me 2 options. Add an additional switch underneath the cabinet controlling service power or reach in and flip a switch that I installed interrupting power until I flipped it. My thinking is if I have to go in the coin door to do this(controlling power to the service outlet) I'd rather not mess with the service outlet on the game and just use the 4 outlet black box red switch. I don't have to have the cable with the green clips if I just leave the plug in the normally on portion of the black 4 outlet box. If I'm reaching in there anyway to control service power I'd be more comfortable just flipping the red switch on the black outlet box.
That's if I'm understanding your suggestion correctly. My comprehension level is compromised so please forgive me going over and over about this.
In my mind the only way to control the service outlet is to add an additional switch either exterior or interior. I do see that you are saying I would be getting rid of the black box and the green connector alligator clip thing and that would clean up the area quite a bit. So there is that advantage for sure.
I appreciate your patience and am grateful for your suggestions and assistance as always.
r/
Mike

HOLD THE PHONE.
I started thinking about everything you were saying and remembered I had some of these tucked away.
This will work and accomplish everything you suggested.
20210214_182522 (Medium) (resized).jpg

Not so! If you are willing to unsolder a single wire and resolder it to a new spot, the service outlet will turn off and on with the factory on/off switch. No more opening of the coin door at all, no alligator clips, no power strips, no of that stuff.

True but not automatically.

Oh yeah, there's that way too.

So do you want to move this wire or use your remote AC socket?

I want to know how to move this wire most definitely for the knowledge. When I install my pinstadiums in the near future, which also require the use of the service outlet, I will have to utilize the black power strip anyway because I need 2 outlets. 1 for each individual mod. An app then controls the light on/off power to the actual pinstadiums strips much like the little white remote socket.
I may be better off using the remote socket and controlling the black quad outlet box.

I found your other thread explaining this exact scenario.https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/service-outlet-inside-cabinet#post-4948418
If that is the same and saves you the time of re explaining this to me, I will study this series of posts and be educated.
Thank you again for all your help. Your patience is commendable.
r/
Mike

It is the same principle, but the pictures were from a newer WPC game. If you want to do this just unplug your machine, unscrew the power box from the cabinet. Turn the power box over and snap a pic. I will show which wire to disconnect and where to reconnect it to.

Us veterans got to stick together! Semper Fi

Some people may not like my suggestion. But I will occasionally wire in my own female plug (from an extension cord) on the hot and neutral wires that leave the power box. Then use the new female plug for undercab lights.. etc. When the game is powered off, so is the device and your service outlet is still able to be used. Not positive about sys11 games but ive certainly done it on newer sterns.

Since you like to mod your F-14, and you want some pin stadiums for some more flash, maybe you should save some money and read this thread.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f14-flashers-not-working/page/2#post-2882054

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f-14-tomcat-beacon-diy-step-down-voltage-regulator#post-3007261

OORAH! First to fight! Thank you for your sacrifice and service. I remember once in Iceland (NAS Keflavik) where the Marines allowed/tolerated us squids to hang with them in their bar. We weren't invited obviously but somehow ended up there stumbling around the base.
One of the best memories of my Navy life. Non stop laughing, numerous feats of strength, fist fights, and lots of I love you, man! and hugs by closing time. Did I mention the numerous feats of strength.
There is no one better to be around, in any situation, than a United States Marine.
r/
Mike

here are the pictures as directed:

20210215_083608 (Large) (resized).jpg

20210215_083659 (Large) (resized).jpg

20210215_083859 (Large) (resized).jpg

I've been all over these posts a couple times but that's for another time. Make no mistake I want these in addition to the pin stadiums (I have a couple sets that I purchased a while ago during a sale Scott was having) I'm waiting for my custom inner pinblades from Joe at pingraffix before I put in the pinstadium fusions. I'll stay on track for now but these are definitely bookmarked. Thank you.

UNPLUG THE MACHINE FIRST!

The service outlet black wire (yellow arrow) goes up to the fuse input terminal (red arrow) as does the 120 volt input. Unsolder the one black wire that comes from the service outlet at the fuse terminal. Leave the other black wire intact. Then crimp on a butt connector and @ 16 inches of 14 gauge black stranded wire to the service outlet wire that you removed from the fuse holder. Then poke this new wire out of the box at the green arrow. You will need to cut the zip ties off of the wires going to the on/off switch. Follow the original (constant power) black wire that comes out of the power box down to the switch, you are going to solder the new black wire to the (switched power) other black wire on the on/off switch. Add some new wire ties to hold the new wire to the old wires. Reinstall the red switch cover and screw the power box back in place. Plug in game and test the service outlet, it should be dead now. Turn on the game and the service outlet should be on now. Enjoy.

ccc (resized).jpg

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Thank you!
r/
Mike

Grumpy, is there any reason why I could be missing just some of my sounds and callouts?

For example, when I drain out the right outlane i get an odd windy sound and nothing else. I distinctly remember my original F14 having a short jingle followed by yagov yelling HIT! Also after whatching a video of another F14, I dont recall mine ever saying "Heads up Ramrod!"

Ideas?

Sound board makes certain sounds, cpu makes certain sounds. First you need to find out which sounds are missing by doing the sound test.

Let’s see it in action!!. Definitely Returning the missing Flashers Mod is a must! Thanks Grumpy!

Does anyone have one of these kicking around? Found one thru Great Plains but it’s about a .90 part with $20 usd to ship. Trying to source elsewhere.

My phone broke on Wednesday night. I mean hard down. I tore it apart and think maybe an lcd and digitizer may fix it.
Everything is on order. It's a note 5 and has a crapload of my dogs photos on it. I have to get it working there is no other option.
Among the photos is a couple short videos of the F-14 TV mod in action.
The cloud that hangs over my head since I retired from the Navy in 2007 is incredibly dark and stormy. I'm literally bad luck personified and these last few weeks have been a challenge to say the least.
Others have it much worse so, like everyone else, we keep on keepin' on. It'll all work out.
Anyway. Hope everyone is hanging in there.

r/
Mike

You are a beautiful human. Didn’t know jags existed. Ordered this and a few other things. Parts were more than GPE but shipping very fair to offset the slight increase in part cost. Very happy to learn this.