Nope. Mine are original.

Occasionally mine does it to. All oe boards.

Mine are original also.
I had tunes pumping in the background, which drowned out any music/sound. I only noticed because a song ended.

I really wish this machine was compatible with a Pinsound board, I would so love to "Top Gun" it. I can totally hear Highway to the Danger Zone playing on it

I found this. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f14-tomcat-second-sortie-information-and-on-going-development

Which lead me to this.....

That's my dust-catcher of a project. All kinds of things have taken me away from it over the last few years.... Someday I'll get back to it....

IT. IS. AWESOME!!!!

Thoughts on Vid's "Returning F14 Flashers to Original Design"/ If you did this change did you like it and such?

Project for the weekend add the new play field decals on the plastics and upgraded the legs and rebuilt just one flipper according to vids guide, boy is there a difference!

Thanks to all those who posts here to help out the rookies--- like myself!!

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Can't have too many flashers!

That must have been the design team's credo when they did GOT.

My F-14 had them installed originally or, I guess, never uninstalled. I added a flasher connected LED strip under a new clear diverter ramp in the top right. I also added similar under-cabinet LED strips. It still needs more. I'd love to add something bright that flashes in the yagov kicker lane when it kicks back.

Add a 12 volt led strip of what ever color you like. Connect the wires to the relay that fires the Yagov kicker. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.

I like the LED option!

okay next question. What sleeve is used on the ball shooter lane feeder coil? Having a small issue with the ball eject. Seems like it is just on the edge of working-- 8 of ten are perfect. would like to clean up that coil and assembly but can't find the part number for that sleeve. I figured on replacing the spring plate, eject cam arm along with the eject cam pivot bracket and sleeve.

Thanks

https://www.pinballlife.com/1-34-coil-sleeve.html

Good evening everyone. I have recently acquired an F-14 and I have been doing research for when I start to pull everything apart and give it a good cleaning. I am seeing a difference in what is in the manual, Williams Parts Catalog, and what is on my machine as far as the solenoids. The WPC shows there are 2 AE-23-800-13 where the manual doesn't show any, and I have at least 3 on my playfield. In everyone's experience which is the way to go as far as reliability and correctness? Thanks in advance.

Scott

I see 12 AE-23-800 coils.
The -13 is just a different coil sleeve or diode.
http://www.pinballrebel.com/pinball/cards/Tech_Charts/Williams_F-14_Tomcat_Tech_Chart.pdf

Peter
http://www.inkochnito.nl

Thanks for the link to the chart it will be useful. I understand that the differences are diode and sleeves, is there anywhere that specifies what is on each of the dash numbers. I have read the https://www.pinballmedic.net/coilchart.html and he talks about a suffix or a dash number but never gets into a decoder that can be used to understand what sleeves and/or diode changes there are. The tech chart you referenced matches the manual with the exception of the right lane eject. After looking, the table in the manual that the tech chart is from doesn't match page 46 for location of the solenoids and flashers. I would like to make sure I have the right sleeves and/or diodes on the coils I replace.

Scott

Not sure if you are trying to do a 100% accurate restore or just a good rebuild. Here are some things to keep in mind.

On this game all coils get diodes, I use 1N4007 as they are better then originals and can be used anywhere a 1N400x diode is used.
There are only 2 special coils ( AL-26-1500) for the divertors. The rest are common AE-23-800 coils.
Most sleeves are standard type and length except for flange sleeves which are listed in the manual.
All flipper coils get 2 diodes and are FL11630 lower and FL11722 upper except proto games which have 4 FL11630.

I was going to post the same question about the different 23-800s. Thank you.

Thank you for that info. This is what I was looking for I think. So just to make sure I understand I can pretty much use any AE-23-800 coil as long as I have the correct sleeve for the location. Should I switch out the diodes before I install the new coil to be on the safe side. I am pretty sure I have a few diodes left from when I hooked up my coil wrong on my Pinbot? BTW Grumpy you were a life saver in that instance.

Scott

Scott, I'm local to you and would be happy to help you sort out any issues you're having. I'm not a professional boards guy but I've got a lot of experience especially with F14 and system 11.

PM me if youd like, I can easily send pictures or more information if you get stuck.

Steven.

Yes.

As I stated I like using 1N4007 diodes on my pins, so I would cut off the diode, then test my new diode, then test my new coil, and then install it in the machine. I have seen bad new parts and it seems to be getting more frequent these days.

Always good to have some on hand.

No problem.

For most coils you need this sleeve. https://www.pinballlife.com/1-34-coil-sleeve.html

For coils that need flanged sleeves I use these. Then cut to the length needed. https://www.pinballlife.com/2-1116-flanged-coil-sleeve.html

For most flipper coils I use these. https://www.pinballlife.com/2-316-coil-sleeve.html

Just got my latest set of pins delivered! Available on my Etsy shop. This concept was suggested by Berto Moon and I think may have our coolest pin yet with glow in the dark radar! Fly into 2021 in style!

Excited to share this item from my #etsy shop: Air Combat Pin Set https://etsy.me/3rtDnWC

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My F-14 was missing this plastic (not my photo). I managed to pick up a reproduction plastic, but I don't have the plastic standoffs nor the hardware. I can't find their parts numbers in the Blue Parts Catalog.
Looks like:
- 6 plastic standoffs, possibly 03-8022-1, but I'm not sure of the length
- 4 screws (size? Do they screw directly in the diverter ramp?)

Can anybody give me some accurate info?

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As I'm shaking out some bugs and making adjustments on the greatest game about the greatest aircraft ever made for the greatest Navy the world has ever known....could I get confirmation that when I initially complete the TOMCAT (and not stacking) that 2 balls initially will be locked instead of just one basically making multiball achievement that much closer and easier to attain.
It just seems awful funny it does this every time and the last time I put any time on this game was at a local bar near NAS Miramar in the late 80's early 90's. Memory is a little suspect.

That's me in there, 1989 in the back seat working mids and changing out a 142 pin connector hours before a scheduled sortie. What you hear on the radio is my Master Chief screaming at an ambitious AQAN changing out a 142 pin connector hours before aforementioned sortie. It got done. Flight made it on time. It was a funny story....but not that day.
I loved that plane more than life itself.

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I believe the medium difficulty is the default and what mine was set to when I reset it. The first lock does spot you 2 locks in that setting. If you want it set harder you can just set the difficulty to hard or extra hard. There are a lot of settings available for OPS to tweak so what you remember may not be stock settings.

Thank you.

Yes the newest code spots 2 locks.

I have a r-1 rom in the machine now and want to change to the L-1 release rom. If I do so will it reset the high scores.

No.

Does anyone know the rule changes in the r-1 to the l-1. I can’t find the r-1 on ipdb listed

Is R-1 the proto rom? Mine has the proto roms. I believe the newer rom has a ball save for the Yagov kicker, and by default you lite two locks instead of one when you complete TOM-CAT for the first time?

This is Grumpy's photo not mine. I'm hoping you don't mind me using it for reference. I borrowed it from the HEP thread.

Anyone know a one stop shop to resource these parts? I'm talking the mechanical portions mostly. I'd like to tighten mine up with some new stuff.
Thank you.
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also, in the second photo, which is my machine, does the 87167 mean the 167th day of 1987? June 16th, 1987(tuesday)
I can't find anything on how to read the date of manufacture.

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Yes, you are correct.
YYDDMM format.
I've created several reproduction files for the STD-795 FCC sticker and they all look the same format.
When it is month 10, 11 or 12 you will get a digit more.

Coil wrappers are on my website http://www.inkochnito.nl
Scroll down to "Coil Wrappers" and read the top text of the page to get the right file.

Peter

Oh wait. So you're actually saying its the 16th day of the 7th month as in July 16th? 87/16/07

I was going with the 167th day of the year 1987. 87/167 That just happened to be the 16th day of June which was a tuesday according to the web.

Thanks for the help.

Coil wrappers are genius. I also think I have that bridge board that you made apparently? It came extra with my F-14.
r/
Mike

I seem to only enjoy my F14 on extra hard setting. Its definitely much more challenging to get multi-ball which I think is what this pin kind of needs. I recently missed rolling the score by 600K points on 3 -ball. Damnit!!!

Hey guys just a quick question. I know there has been talk about the random weirdness on this game being tied to diode‘s. I want to try replacing the diode‘s on the left flipper as that seems to be the one that’s engaged when the weirdness starts happening. Would you replace the diode‘s on the coil or the diode‘s on the switch. Or all of them.

There are no diodes on the switches for the flippers. I would replace both diodes on the coil to start.

Can confirm. I had multiple issues including balls not staying in the locks because of bad coil diodes. They are cheap. Replace all of them and you wont have to scratch your head later. Dont forget to take note of orientation of the bands on the diodes before removing.

Mine does. I’ll check if it’s the eos switch or the always closed one.

How about posting a pic of the flipper switches.

Replaced the diodes on the lower left coil which I suspected may be the issue. Still doing it. I’ll replace the rest. But can confirm the lower flippers have a diode on the switches.

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Those switches are lane change switches and are used to put your name in for the high score and have nothing to do with the flippers. The inner switch is the EOS or end of stroke switch for cutting the high power coil winding off when cradling the ball so the coil doesn't melt. The flipper switches are mounted in the cabinet and have capacitors mounted to them.

Now since you are having issues when the left flipper is pressed you would also need to replace the upper left flipper diodes too.

It has the 2 ball lock on the first Tom cat spelling and the insurance in the Yagov kicker.

Tacky.... Maybe
Gaudy....You bet.
Outlandish...Most likely.
If I could fit more in there I would.
This game will never leave my small collection. This was one of the show birds in the late 80s. 450. The other bird was 451. 452 and 453 were the squadron peacocks during most of my tour. We were allowed 2 if I recall. We had a crapload of F-14s because we were the west coast rag. I was there from early 88-91. Great memory.
It was also the revell #4770 1:32 model that I had twice and am trying to get again. Expensive now.
I remember the model saying AE1 Pete Lirk on the canopy. Sailor of the year honors that year. His actual name was Pete Link and he made Chief that cycle. Also, the Skipper was Jay B. Yakeley at the time the model was made.
Anyway. I decided to deck my Tomcat out with anything and everything that reminds me of my time in Miramar.

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So... I replaced all the diodes on the flippers. Still occasionally spits out a second ball and occasionally tilts mid ball.

Would changing the diodes on the kicker and pop bumper coils be the next step?

Check the 5 volts on test point #1 on the power supply.

How about a pic of SCR 6 on the CPU board.

Question, I just turned on my machine today and when I do I get no music on the first ball just the other sounds. When the ball drains the music will play as normal and is fine from then on. Turn it off and it is intermittently doing it. Any suggestions or thoughts on what to check. I changed the speaker system to pinballpro last week but if the speakers were the problem then I would think that no sounds would come out.

Are you waiting a little bit prior to hitting the start button. I've researched a couple older posts for you and it appears to be normal if starting the game too fast after powering up. Maybe it will take even a little longer for the sound to boot up because of the additional mod you made?
r/
Mike

Wait for the sound after turning on the game.