La Porte, TX
I use to think it was easy, it looked terrible. I would slap this “w” sticker on it and be done with it..good luck! ebay.com link: i
(Topic ID: 66172)
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F-14 Tomcat
Williams, 1987
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Thanks @upkickpinball! Before and After. Notice the Returned missing flashers!
0E7302AB-9A48-472C-B022-54F535998C98 (resized).jpeg5D9B6B05-2C49-4603-ADFB-F058CD5D0432 (resized).jpeg6A985DE9-57BF-492A-8BCB-7F8DB51C8287 (resized).jpeg764CA20E-B04F-480A-A375-792D2040DC2D (resized).jpeg9F55A8F9-FB96-4677-8565-C4F435A8E237 (resized).jpegQuoted from SkaterVet:I got sick and tired of sifting through tons of poorly marked key chains and decided to make my arcade life easier.
[quoted image][quoted image]
That’s cool where did you get that?
Quoted from Pinhead306:That’s cool where did you get that?
I made it for F14 and the rest of my pins and arcade games. Prior to this I had duct tape on keys with a sharpie identifying them. It was a frustrating mess.
924BB90F-BC09-429E-9C41-A8E84D41A111_1_201_a (resized).jpegJust put LEDs in my machine and do they rock!
I also converted my flashers to LED via Comet's LED flashers. I removed the ground to all of the boards as I've seen recommended on here. I was going through the diagnostics for the Solenoid tests and when testing flasher 1, 2, and 3, all of them (1, 2, 3) blink in unison no matter which one of the flashers is tested. Is this the expected result with the LED flashers?
Quoted from bonez0607:Is this the expected result with the LED flashers?
No.
Disconnect the molex connector going to the 6 lamp flasher board on the back board. Then rerun the flasher test to see if they work correctly now.
Quoted from bonez0607:That did it.
You need to remove the flasher board from the backboard and check it for a short.
Quoted from bonez0607:would you mind explaining why that works?
If the negative side of the bulb socket touches another negative side of another socket, then both will light when either bulb is turned on. The circuit board behind the backboard has #1 thru #6 flasher in close proximity to each other and very poor bulb sockets. Another thing to look at is the polarity of the wiring for the bulb sockets that are not operating correctly. For flashers #1 thru #8 the positive wire is orange and any other flashers the positive wire is red.
Post a pic of the 6 flasher circuit board so I can see whats going on with it.
lamp (resized).jpgSo looking beneath the playfield the flashers down by the flippers are wired like this. Looking at your image @grumpy, these appear to be wired backwards?
Also not entirely sure how to check for a short in the board. Put my multimeter to check for continuity and was able to get the “beep” on what I checked
The trace that is common to all the lamp sockets is the power wire. If you remove all the lamps from the board and test from the power to each lamp control wire, it should read infinite ohms.
Now if you are going to install leds in this board you need to look at the sockets to see if they are install correctly with the center terminal on the power wire trace.
fff (resized).jpgQuoted from bonez0607:Also confirming I’m reading center correctly..
Yes this is correct.
Quoted from bonez0607:got 0L (infinity?) on the multimeter
Correct.
Quoted from bonez0607:Appears the backboard flashers are backwards as well...[quoted image]
With incandescent bulbs the polarity doesn't matter. Williams didn't care how they were connected.
Quoted from bonez0607:It looks like the lights are now behaving as they should
Playball!!
For more led madness!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f-14-tomcat-beacon-diy-step-down-voltage-regulator
Quoted from bonez0607:Slowly building up the courage to take it on
Easy peasy lemon squeezy!
I think lots of people fill them with a wood dowel approximately the same size then use a wood putty to hold it in .
Quoted from bowtech:I know she's just a player's condition game but those lock bar holes bug the shit out if me. What do you guys used to cover them?
[quoted image]
Had a right slingshot coil fire and stay powered on. Friend didn't shut it down quickly and when I came over the solenoid was smoking, so that will need replacing. What is the most common cause of a solenoid circuit failure like that? This machine has a Rottendog board. The wire at connector 1J19-4 now always has power applied at start up. The transistor in position Q71 appears to be a tad blue colored looking to be over heated, and that corresponds to the Blue/red wire in position 4 for that Right sling. Numbers off that transistor are 1J39AD FQP 13N1OL. I had a older Rottendog MPU do something similar to a different coil, but the same issue and it got swapped out for this newer board. THoughts?
Quoted from Coyohtay:Had a right slingshot coil fire and stay powered on. Friend didn't shut it down quickly and when I came over the solenoid was smoking, so that will need replacing. What is the most common cause of a solenoid circuit failure like that? This machine has a Rottendog board. The wire at connector 1J19-4 now always has power applied at start up. The transistor in position Q71 appears to be a tad blue colored looking to be over heated, and that corresponds to the Blue/red wire in position 4 for that Right sling. Numbers off that transistor are 1J39AD FQP 13N1OL. I had a older Rottendog MPU do something similar to a different coil, but the same issue and it got swapped out for this newer board. THoughts?
Shorted drive transistor, this is very common on any kind of board (original WMS, etc.) that a drive or pre-driver shorts out. The better question is why didn't the fuse blow before it melted the coil, that's what should have happened. You can test both transistors (drive and pre-drive) with a DMM in diode test but I would replace the driver now even if it was caused by the pre-driver shorting out. I'm not saying you should buy from this source but this is the part number and type of transistor you need: ebay.com link: c
Been reading up on Mosfets. the one in the board is a 13N100. rated at 13 amps. would that one in the link be rated at 33 then?
Quoted from bobukcat:Shorted drive transistor, this is very common on any kind of board (original WMS, etc.) that a drive or pre-driver shorts out. The better question is why didn't the fuse blow before it melted the coil, that's what should have happened. You can test both transistors (drive and pre-drive) with a DMM in diode test but I would replace the driver now even if it was caused by the pre-driver shorting out. I'm not saying you should buy from this source but this is the part number and type of transistor you need: ebay.com link
Quoted from Coyohtay:Been reading up on Mosfets. the one in the board is a 13N100. rated at 13 amps. would that one in the link be rated at 33 then?
Yes, which is major overkill but not a problem really. Check around and you might get lucky enough to find a local parts supplier that has a suitable replacement, otherwise digikey, Mouser, possibly Great Plains Electronics, Pinball life of Marco will have something suitable, you'll just pay more for shipping than the part but that's life!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f-14-resto#post-3740567
this will give you a bigger pic.
Quoted from Pinchild:Much better.
I wonder where I can get those white spacers?
Thanks!
Someone is selling a complete new assembly these days if you really get in a bind and can't get yours working properly again.
After a year of being tired with how weak my pop was, I finally followed the post by Grumpy (#3670 ish).
If you like how the pop plays in this video from pinburg, that’s how changing the the voltage strengths it
https://pinballvideos.com/v/2317
I like the extra movement....
Quoted from topkat:After a year of being tired with how weak my pop was, I finally followed the post by Grumpy (#3670 ish).
If you like how the pop plays in this video from pinburg, that’s how changing the the voltage strengths it
https://pinballvideos.com/v/2317
I like the extra movement....
Is that your game they are playing?
Quoted from GRUMPY:Is that your game they are playing?
No. So I don’t know if that machine has it switched , but thats the type of action I see on my pop now with the 75v.
After I watched that, it motivated me to hook up the high current board. Elwin put up an impressive game ..
Wiener Neustadt
Quoted from GRUMPY:Not hard at all. I recommend switching the power from the divertors to the pop. This also solves the blacken CPU sindrome. Most games came with 75 volts on the divertors ( purple/yellow) which is too high and 25 volts (red/white) on the pop which is too low. If you buy a high current driver board you will have a clean install but will have to make two IDC connectors to finish the install. This will cost @ 35.00 dollars. This can also be done with a TIP 36 and 220 ohm resistor for @ 7.00 dollars, just not as pretty.
I have to dig out that old post:
@grumpy: what do you mean by ´...solves the blacken CPU syndrom..´ - what is that issue exactly?
Randers
Quoted from harig:I have to dig out that old post:
grumpy: what do you mean by ´...solves the blacken CPU syndrom..´ - what is that issue exactly?
I was referring to the melted TIPs on the CPU from the diverter coils locking on.
Quoted from GRUMPY:I was referring to the melted TIPs on the CPU from the diverter coils locking on.
...due to the fact they are powered with 50V(75V) instead of 25V what would be sufficient in that use case?
Is that what you initially meant?
Quoted from harig:...due to the fact they are powered with 50V(75V) instead of 25V what would be sufficient in that use case?
Is that what you initially meant?
Correct, most games the dirverters were powered by 50 volts and controlled by a TIP122. 25 volts is sufficient for proper operation. I give a better explanation in this earlier post.
1 week later
Laval, QC
My spinner works in test mode but I get no effect when it spins during game play (including with 1K lit). Switch level test shows the spinner is off at rest. Switch edge test detects every spin. Can you suggest a way to debug and fix this?
Quoted from clempo:My spinner works in test mode but I get no effect when it spins during game play (including with 1K lit). Switch level test shows the spinner is off at rest. Switch edge test detects every spin. Can you suggest a way to debug and fix this?
When you are testing during a game, did you launch a ball with the shooter rod?
Quoted from GRUMPY:When you are testing during a game, did you launch a ball with the shooter rod?
No, I lifted the ball from the plunger lane with my hand and moved it directly to the upper playfield. When I plunge the ball normally, the spinner works. That was easy. Thanks.
Quoted from Phantasize:Anyone have a write-up of how to do it with a Tip36 C and resistor? Perhaps a small diagram, with the correct color coded wires?
I could do this later if you like, would you want to buy a board that has all the parts installed or would you like to wire each separately.
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