New! Dark mode!

Browsing Pinside at night? Getting tired of all the white? Switch to dark mode using the button in the top right (or CTRL-B)!

(Topic ID: 66172)

F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.


By Hellfire

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 4,681 posts
  • 370 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by Phantasize
  • Topic is favorited by 153 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,478 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

pasted_image (resized).png
IMG_0757 (resized).JPG
30C9CB6A-5C68-4142-A3C4-9C011E826C2D (resized).jpeg
20201118_084214 (resized).jpg
20201118_085215_001 (resized).jpg
Screenshot_20201117-090035_Drive (resized).jpg
FDD37705-9D93-461E-A4D5-9343D68829A9 (resized).png
CA27D0DE-CEF3-4A75-9ECC-5A1451E8D9FD (resized).jpeg
IMG_20201115_155245836 (resized).jpg
IMG_20201115_115412664 (resized).jpg
pasted_image (resized).png
20201030_193742 (resized).jpg
20201030_193749 (resized).jpg
0D851A47-90A8-4D80-A6A5-BCDBFE0CD78D (resized).jpeg
20201025_162452 (resized).jpg
F11E2E37-77C9-4608-B3C8-DA4A85E74343 (resized).jpeg

Topic index (key posts)

19 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 4681 posts in this topic. You are on page 93 of 94.
#4601 56 days ago

I use to think it was easy, it looked terrible. I would slap this “w” sticker on it and be done with it..good luck! ebay.com link

#4602 52 days ago

Thanks @upkickpinball! Before and After. Notice the Returned missing flashers!

0E7302AB-9A48-472C-B022-54F535998C98 (resized).jpeg5D9B6B05-2C49-4603-ADFB-F058CD5D0432 (resized).jpeg6A985DE9-57BF-492A-8BCB-7F8DB51C8287 (resized).jpeg764CA20E-B04F-480A-A375-792D2040DC2D (resized).jpeg9F55A8F9-FB96-4677-8565-C4F435A8E237 (resized).jpeg
#4603 45 days ago

I got sick and tired of sifting through tons of poorly marked key chains and decided to make my arcade life easier.

98AFB3FB-D887-43CA-B90D-05DC4966A17B_1_201_a (resized).jpegEE9582A9-CF67-400D-BB54-F5810DB57FC5_1_201_a (resized).jpeg
#4604 45 days ago
Quoted from SkaterVet:

I got sick and tired of sifting through tons of poorly marked key chains and decided to make my arcade life easier.
[quoted image][quoted image]

That’s cool where did you get that?

#4605 45 days ago
Quoted from Pinhead306:

That’s cool where did you get that?

I made it for F14 and the rest of my pins and arcade games. Prior to this I had duct tape on keys with a sharpie identifying them. It was a frustrating mess.

924BB90F-BC09-429E-9C41-A8E84D41A111_1_201_a (resized).jpeg
#4606 45 days ago

Just put LEDs in my machine and do they rock!

I also converted my flashers to LED via Comet's LED flashers. I removed the ground to all of the boards as I've seen recommended on here. I was going through the diagnostics for the Solenoid tests and when testing flasher 1, 2, and 3, all of them (1, 2, 3) blink in unison no matter which one of the flashers is tested. Is this the expected result with the LED flashers?

#4607 44 days ago
Quoted from bonez0607:

Is this the expected result with the LED flashers?

No.

Disconnect the molex connector going to the 6 lamp flasher board on the back board. Then rerun the flasher test to see if they work correctly now.

#4608 44 days ago

Genius! That did it. Should any other molex connectors be removed? Currently, that's the only one I've done

Also, if you have a moment would you mind explaining why that works?

#4609 44 days ago

You need to remove the flasher board from the backboard and check it for a short.

Quoted from bonez0607:

would you mind explaining why that works?

If the negative side of the bulb socket touches another negative side of another socket, then both will light when either bulb is turned on. The circuit board behind the backboard has #1 thru #6 flasher in close proximity to each other and very poor bulb sockets. Another thing to look at is the polarity of the wiring for the bulb sockets that are not operating correctly. For flashers #1 thru #8 the positive wire is orange and any other flashers the positive wire is red.

Post a pic of the 6 flasher circuit board so I can see whats going on with it.

lamp (resized).jpg
#4610 44 days ago

Thanks for the explanation! Here are the photos of the board. These are the only ones I have not yet put LED flashers in

10EEF924-43F7-4E87-A410-93BB39E1E3B7 (resized).jpeg711A9EC4-B100-4673-87A4-4A51E9302085 (resized).jpeg956CC938-BDC2-4D46-8CEA-33335AB490E3 (resized).jpeg
#4611 43 days ago

So looking beneath the playfield the flashers down by the flippers are wired like this. Looking at your image grumpy, these appear to be wired backwards?

Also not entirely sure how to check for a short in the board. Put my multimeter to check for continuity and was able to get the “beep” on what I checked

2692BE4F-E4D0-4733-AB3F-CCB0CABF0DB5 (resized).jpeg

#4612 43 days ago

You all may be interested to see the incredible work High End Pins is currently doing on an F14 restoration. Amazing stuff!!!! https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/hep-this-week-9-17-18/page/162#post-5921823

#4613 43 days ago

Yes this flasher socket is wired backwards.

pasted_image (resized).png
#4614 42 days ago

The trace that is common to all the lamp sockets is the power wire. If you remove all the lamps from the board and test from the power to each lamp control wire, it should read infinite ohms.

Now if you are going to install leds in this board you need to look at the sockets to see if they are install correctly with the center terminal on the power wire trace.

fff (resized).jpg
#4615 42 days ago

Ok there’s two that need that need switching. Also confirming I’m reading center correctly...

Checked the board with all lamps removed and and got 0L (infinity?) on the multimeter

32E2132B-4B4D-4D6E-AE40-A07D082E969D (resized).jpeg
#4616 42 days ago
Quoted from bonez0607:

Also confirming I’m reading center correctly..

Yes this is correct.

Quoted from bonez0607:

got 0L (infinity?) on the multimeter

Correct.

#4617 42 days ago

Appears the backboard flashers are backwards as well...

F11E2E37-77C9-4608-B3C8-DA4A85E74343 (resized).jpeg
#4618 42 days ago
Quoted from bonez0607:

Appears the backboard flashers are backwards as well...[quoted image]

With incandescent bulbs the polarity doesn't matter. Williams didn't care how they were connected.

#4619 41 days ago

grumpy thank you very much for all your help! It looks like the lights are now behaving as they should

#4620 41 days ago
Quoted from bonez0607:

It looks like the lights are now behaving as they should

Playball!!

For more led madness!

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f-14-tomcat-beacon-diy-step-down-voltage-regulator

#4621 41 days ago

I’ve read that one a few times. Slowly building up the courage to take it on

#4622 41 days ago
Quoted from bonez0607:

Slowly building up the courage to take it on

Easy peasy lemon squeezy!

#4623 39 days ago

I know she's just a player's condition game but those lock bar holes bug the shit out if me. What do you guys used to cover them?

20201025_162452 (resized).jpg
#4624 39 days ago

When you find out, let me know. Looks like someone filled mine w/ bondo or some sort of patch.

0D851A47-90A8-4D80-A6A5-BCDBFE0CD78D (resized).jpeg
#4625 39 days ago

If either of you want to redecal i have a set of cabinet decals id sell.

#4626 39 days ago

I think lots of people fill them with a wood dowel approximately the same size then use a wood putty to hold it in .

Quoted from bowtech:

I know she's just a player's condition game but those lock bar holes bug the shit out if me. What do you guys used to cover them?
[quoted image]

#4627 38 days ago

i usually just fill them with carriage bolts

#4628 35 days ago

Had a right slingshot coil fire and stay powered on. Friend didn't shut it down quickly and when I came over the solenoid was smoking, so that will need replacing. What is the most common cause of a solenoid circuit failure like that? This machine has a Rottendog board. The wire at connector 1J19-4 now always has power applied at start up. The transistor in position Q71 appears to be a tad blue colored looking to be over heated, and that corresponds to the Blue/red wire in position 4 for that Right sling. Numbers off that transistor are 1J39AD FQP 13N1OL. I had a older Rottendog MPU do something similar to a different coil, but the same issue and it got swapped out for this newer board. THoughts?

#4629 34 days ago
Quoted from Coyohtay:

Had a right slingshot coil fire and stay powered on. Friend didn't shut it down quickly and when I came over the solenoid was smoking, so that will need replacing. What is the most common cause of a solenoid circuit failure like that? This machine has a Rottendog board. The wire at connector 1J19-4 now always has power applied at start up. The transistor in position Q71 appears to be a tad blue colored looking to be over heated, and that corresponds to the Blue/red wire in position 4 for that Right sling. Numbers off that transistor are 1J39AD FQP 13N1OL. I had a older Rottendog MPU do something similar to a different coil, but the same issue and it got swapped out for this newer board. THoughts?

Shorted drive transistor, this is very common on any kind of board (original WMS, etc.) that a drive or pre-driver shorts out. The better question is why didn't the fuse blow before it melted the coil, that's what should have happened. You can test both transistors (drive and pre-drive) with a DMM in diode test but I would replace the driver now even if it was caused by the pre-driver shorting out. I'm not saying you should buy from this source but this is the part number and type of transistor you need: ebay.com link

#4630 34 days ago

Been reading up on Mosfets. the one in the board is a 13N100. rated at 13 amps. would that one in the link be rated at 33 then?

Quoted from bobukcat:

Shorted drive transistor, this is very common on any kind of board (original WMS, etc.) that a drive or pre-driver shorts out. The better question is why didn't the fuse blow before it melted the coil, that's what should have happened. You can test both transistors (drive and pre-drive) with a DMM in diode test but I would replace the driver now even if it was caused by the pre-driver shorting out. I'm not saying you should buy from this source but this is the part number and type of transistor you need: ebay.com link

#4631 34 days ago

Could really use pictures of how the beacon motor properly connects to motor.

Mine is rigged wrong.

20201030_193742 (resized).jpg20201030_193749 (resized).jpg
#4632 33 days ago
Quoted from Coyohtay:

Been reading up on Mosfets. the one in the board is a 13N100. rated at 13 amps. would that one in the link be rated at 33 then?

Yes, which is major overkill but not a problem really. Check around and you might get lucky enough to find a local parts supplier that has a suitable replacement, otherwise digikey, Mouser, possibly Great Plains Electronics, Pinball life of Marco will have something suitable, you'll just pay more for shipping than the part but that's life!

#4633 33 days ago

Hope this helps!

pasted_image (resized).png
#4635 33 days ago

Much better.

I wonder where I can get those white spacers?

Thanks!

#4636 33 days ago
Quoted from Pinchild:

Much better.
I wonder where I can get those white spacers?
Thanks!

Someone is selling a complete new assembly these days if you really get in a bind and can't get yours working properly again.

#4637 32 days ago

After a year of being tired with how weak my pop was, I finally followed the post by Grumpy (#3670 ish).

If you like how the pop plays in this video from pinburg, that’s how changing the the voltage strengths it
https://pinballvideos.com/v/2317

I like the extra movement....

#4638 32 days ago
Quoted from topkat:

After a year of being tired with how weak my pop was, I finally followed the post by Grumpy (#3670 ish).
If you like how the pop plays in this video from pinburg, that’s how changing the the voltage strengths it
https://pinballvideos.com/v/2317
I like the extra movement....

Is that your game they are playing?

#4639 31 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Is that your game they are playing?

No. So I don’t know if that machine has it switched , but thats the type of action I see on my pop now with the 75v.
After I watched that, it motivated me to hook up the high current board. Elwin put up an impressive game ..

#4640 31 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Not hard at all. I recommend switching the power from the divertors to the pop. This also solves the blacken CPU sindrome. Most games came with 75 volts on the divertors ( purple/yellow) which is too high and 25 volts (red/white) on the pop which is too low. If you buy a high current driver board you will have a clean install but will have to make two IDC connectors to finish the install. This will cost @ 35.00 dollars. This can also be done with a TIP 36 and 220 ohm resistor for @ 7.00 dollars, just not as pretty.

I have to dig out that old post:
grumpy: what do you mean by ´...solves the blacken CPU syndrom..´ - what is that issue exactly?

#4641 31 days ago

I would love to speed up mu pop and the slings as well. Anyone have a write-up of how to do it with a Tip36 C and resistor? Perhaps a small diagram, with the correct color coded wires?

#4642 31 days ago
Quoted from harig:

I have to dig out that old post:
grumpy: what do you mean by ´...solves the blacken CPU syndrom..´ - what is that issue exactly?

I was referring to the melted TIPs on the CPU from the diverter coils locking on.

#4643 31 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I was referring to the melted TIPs on the CPU from the diverter coils locking on.

...due to the fact they are powered with 50V(75V) instead of 25V what would be sufficient in that use case?
Is that what you initially meant?

#4644 31 days ago
Quoted from harig:

...due to the fact they are powered with 50V(75V) instead of 25V what would be sufficient in that use case?
Is that what you initially meant?

Correct, most games the dirverters were powered by 50 volts and controlled by a TIP122. 25 volts is sufficient for proper operation. I give a better explanation in this earlier post.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f14-tomcat-owners-club-fans-also-welcome/page/65#post-4332895

#4645 31 days ago

Thanks for clarification!
When I got my F14 one diverter coil was also locked on and some transistors already exchanged before.... now I know why

1 week later
#4646 20 days ago

My spinner works in test mode but I get no effect when it spins during game play (including with 1K lit). Switch level test shows the spinner is off at rest. Switch edge test detects every spin. Can you suggest a way to debug and fix this?

#4647 20 days ago
Quoted from clempo:

My spinner works in test mode but I get no effect when it spins during game play (including with 1K lit). Switch level test shows the spinner is off at rest. Switch edge test detects every spin. Can you suggest a way to debug and fix this?

When you are testing during a game, did you launch a ball with the shooter rod?

#4648 20 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

When you are testing during a game, did you launch a ball with the shooter rod?

No, I lifted the ball from the plunger lane with my hand and moved it directly to the upper playfield. When I plunge the ball normally, the spinner works. That was easy. Thanks.

#4649 20 days ago
Quoted from clempo:

That was easy. Thanks.

Playball!

#4650 20 days ago
Quoted from Phantasize:

Anyone have a write-up of how to do it with a Tip36 C and resistor? Perhaps a small diagram, with the correct color coded wires?

I could do this later if you like, would you want to buy a board that has all the parts installed or would you like to wire each separately.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 19.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
1,800 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Marshfield, WI
$ 85.95
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
$ 50.00
$ 39.99
Eproms
Matt's Basement Arcade
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 54.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
$ 15.75
Cabinet Parts
Tilted Pinball
From: $ 5.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 5.00
Playfield - Decals
Metal-Mods
$ 79.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Lighted Pinball Mods
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Cleveland, OH
There are 4681 posts in this topic. You are on page 93 of 94.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside