F-14 Tomcat
Williams, 1987Quoted from GRUMPY:If the EOS broke, the coil would cook while you cradle the ball.
I replaced the eos and coil 2 weeks ago. I noticed the flipper binding. Thought maybe the sleeve was bad. Had to break the sleeve out of the new coil. Tried replacing it, new one will only go 1/4 in and have to break it to get out. It's like coil shrunk. That's when I noticed the yellow resistor was broken off.
That's not a resistor, it's a capacitor intended to minimize arcing on the end of stroke switch. If your coil sleeve will no longer go into the flipper coil, it's toasted. The capacitor being busted off may or may not have something to do with the EOS locking on. (If it was broken and the switch was adjusted too closely, an arc could hold the eos together as a temporary type weld)
The coil sleeve not going into the coil means the coil has been heat damaged, and yes, it's like the bobbin shrunk.
Quoted from slochar:That's not a resistor, it's a capacitor intended to minimize arcing on the end of stroke switch. If your coil sleeve will no longer go into the flipper coil, it's toasted. The capacitor being busted off may or may not have something to do with the EOS locking on. (If it was broken and the switch was adjusted too closely, an arc could hold the eos together as a temporary type weld)
The coil sleeve not going into the coil means the coil has been heat damaged, and yes, it's like the bobbin shrunk.
Ok. Thanks. I have another coil coming and a capacitor in a rebuild kit. We will see how it goes.
Quoted from bowtech:Ok. Thanks. I have another coil coming and a capacitor in a rebuild kit. We will see how it goes.
When you replace a EOS switch, it needs to be adjusted so it has an 1/8 inch gap when the flipper is in the up position. New switches are not preset.
Quoted from GRUMPY:When you replace a EOS switch, it needs to be adjusted so it has an 1/8 inch gap when the flipper is in the up position. New switches are not preset.
Might be my problem, I think it's touching with no gap.
Quoted from bowtech:Might be my problem, I think it's touching with no gap.
When the flipper is at rest that's what you want. When it flips is when you want it open. Coil will burn up before long if you like to hold up the flippers (why the flipper fuse never blows in this situation I dunno you'd think it would....)
Quoted from slochar:When the flipper is at rest that's what you want. When it flips is when you want it open. Coil will burn up before long if you like to hold up the flippers (why the flipper fuse never blows in this situation I dunno you'd think it would....)
So touching when flipper button is not pressed (at rest) and 1/8 in when flipper button is pushed in? Is that correct?
Quoted from bowtech:So touching when flipper button is not pressed (at rest) and 1/8 in when flipper button is pushed in? Is that correct?
Yes, when the flipper is at rest, that switch is what provides the high voltage to the flipper - when you flip, it opens at the full stroke, so you do not burn up the flipper coil. There is still voltage in the flipper to hold it up (that's what the second, higher set of numbers means on some flipper coils - for instance some are labeled 25-450/34-5050 - this means the power stroke is 450 winds of 25 gauge wire, and the hold coil is 5050 winds of 34 gauge wire. Williams flipper coils like the 11630 aren't labeled that way, but they are still constructed the same way.).
Yup, had the exact same issue on mine, after fiddling with the flippers. I had too small of a gap on the EOS switch when the coil plunger was pulled, resulting in the coil overheating, and then binding after that. That EOS gap is SOOOO important!
Quoted from pinballfan:the cpr backglass give a better look than original translite? it look draker on picture.
I bought it, it's definitely darker IDK if it's better than the original translite. My translite was in great condition and I thought it was going to be better buts it's super dark, I plan on ordering some martix strips at some point and adding them but I still haven't done it have it full of Comet 2smd Sunlights now. My mirroring isn't good either when it's off it's fine when you turn it on it's full specs you can see through I'm bother asking CPR if that was normal or whatever I'll keep it. I got 2 when they went on sale for Christmas got one for my Totan also and don't think I'll buy another one unless my original translite is really a mess. I'll look for some pics and post it
You see in normal like the mirroring looks fine but when it's on you see all the specs through it. Probably not normal but not bad enough for me to bother sending it back I'll keep that way. The quality of the glass is good very thick. If you get one just plan on adding some additional strips of light or something.
20200221_174344 (resized).jpg20200221_175541 (resized).jpgScreenshot_20200912-121536 (resized).pngScreenshot_20200912-121545 (resized).pngI thought hard about getting the F14 BG from CPR. But decided I could not drop that coin after seeing the quality of the CPR Black Knight glass I recently purchased. If you look at the original peeled BG vs the CPR. The amount of detail loss on the CPR is striking, and the gold paint looks much more metallic vs gold leaf like. Yes I am being very picky here. But it does the job when looking at it from 6 feet away. Not sure why it could not have been much more like the original one.
New coil installed and oh boy was that switch misadjusted. Can't believe the other coil I put on didn't cook. As it goes with this game she's playing well but now I burned out a beacon bulb. I searched the thread and don't see any saying what number I might need. Can anyone help me here?
Quoted from bowtech:New coil installed and oh boy was that switch misadjusted. Can't believe the other coil I put on didn't cook. As it goes with this game she's playing well but now I burned out a beacon bulb. I searched the thread and don't see any saying what number I might need. Can anyone help me here?
Nevermind, I'm an idiot. I figured it out.
Quoted from bowtech:Nevermind, I'm an idiot. I figured it out.
Hi guys, it was suggested in a post that I made to ask about my problem here.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f-14-tomcat-spinner-does-not-work-in-game-only-it-test-mode#post-5860537
I got a spinner that works in the Switch and Edge test modes, but will not work in the game.
Quoted from Brewchap:#post-5860537
I got a spinner that works in the Switch and Edge test modes, but will not work in the game
Do you have the dip switch settings correct for Williams game on the Rottendog board?
Quoted from GRUMPY:Do you have the dip switch settings correct for Williams game on the Rottendog board?
Okay I finally found the solution to this. The spinner switch in game WILL NOT register until the ball has been plunged, gone through the wire ramps, and has landed on the playfield. One the ball is in play on the PF, it will register correctly. Drove me crazy too.
Hope that helps.
Quoted from wrd1972_PinDoc:Okay I finally found the solution to this. The spinner switch in game WILL NOT register until the ball has been plunged, gone through the wire ramps, and has landed on the playfield. One the ball is in play on the PF, it will register correctly. Drove me crazy too.
Hope that helps.
Yup me too!
As I mentioned in previous thread, I remember that I had to start a game before it would work. LOL!
Quoted from Brewchap:Hi Grumpy! No I don't have any dip switches on this MPU.[quoted image]
OOoo, that must be the brand new revision of Rottendog System 11 MPU?
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:OOoo, that must be the brand new revision of Rottendog System 11 MPU?
Yep the new system 9-11 board. I haven't used one yet.
Quoted from Brewchap:Hi Grumpy! No I don't have any dip switches on this MPU.[quoted image]
Well if there is nothing wrong with the board then I would try new game ROMs. Does anyone around you have a set you can try.
Quoted from wrd1972_PinDoc:Okay I finally found the solution to this. The spinner switch in game WILL NOT register until the ball has been plunged, gone through the wire ramps, and has landed on the playfield. One the ball is in play on the PF, it will register correctly. Drove me crazy too.
Hope that helps.
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:Yup me too!
As I mentioned in previous thread, I remember that I had to start a game before it would work. LOL!
I though that just hitting the credit button to start the game was enough, but the ball has to be in play after it enters the ramps to the playfield in order for the spinner to work. Thank you guys for your help! It working like it should!
Quoted from GRUMPY:Yep the new system 9-11 board. I haven't used one yet.
Didn't know that it was a new MPU version that I got. I wonder if it will solve the sound problems that I have read about. The sounds from the original board (very bad battery damage with flaky play) and the new RottenDog MPU sound the same to me.
Quoted from Brewchap:Didn't know that it was a new MPU version that I got. I wonder if it will solve the sound problems that I have read about. The sounds from the original board (very bad battery damage with flaky play) and the new RottenDog MPU sound the same to me.
They will sound the same. I didn't have any sound issues with the last RD board so you should be good.
Possibly similar to the last post bowtech made on page 89?
Left flipper return, Right flipper return, and Right Kicker ("sling") doesn't register any points. Left Drain "Rescue" kickback is weak (Though this may not be related). I went through the switch and edge tests and everything registers (57, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63) except for the Right Kicker ("sling") 58. My first thought is to replace the Right kicker switch since it's not registering. I can't imagine that would affect the others ability to register points though. Any thoughts?
So after all this time owning my Tomcat. I just now realized I have sound from my speaker panel. But the sound from the cabinet speaker is completely missing.
I havent dug in too deep yet, any common problems or obvious places to check?
Quoted from FLASHBALL:any common problems
Blown out speaker?
Bad wire between speaker and sound board?
Bad molex connector?
Cracked header pin on the sound board?
Quoted from GRUMPY:Blown out speaker?
Bad wire between speaker and sound board?
Bad molex connector?
Cracked header pin on the sound board?
Cracked header pin for the win! I wiggled the connector and it started working. Touched up all the header pins while I had it out. Easy fix.
Thx Grumpy
anyone out there ever retrofit a newer F-14 display to an early production speaker panel? have a customer with a display board that had some really gnarly 'work' done to it' and he wants to buy a replacement... but would obviously rather use the cheaper mass produced one. i know the model works, cause i tested my later model wms display in it' just the standoffs are different spaced.
Quoted from statictrance:anyone out there ever retrofit a newer F-14 display to an early production speaker panel? have a customer with a display board that had some really gnarly 'work' done to it' and he wants to buy a replacement... but would obviously rather use the cheaper mass produced one. i know the model works, cause i tested my later model wms display in it' just the standoffs are different spaced.
I looked at doing it, but decided it wasn't worth the money saved.
The connectors at the top have to be reversed from front to back.
Two holes have to be drilled in the pcb so it can mount.
It will work, but you will void the warranty and only save 100ish. for you doing so.
Quoted from statictrance:anyone out there ever retrofit a newer F-14 display to an early production speaker panel? have a customer with a display board that had some really gnarly 'work' done to it' and he wants to buy a replacement... but would obviously rather use the cheaper mass produced one. i know the model works, cause i tested my later model wms display in it' just the standoffs are different spaced.
I have a working one I would sell.
The Wolffpack system 11a kit is a nice replacement and fits perfectly. All that you have to do is build it. Email for the system 11a as it's not listed on the web site yet.
Quoted from dung:The connectors at the top have to be reversed from front to back.
which connectors? i tested my display board in it (later factory F-14 stock, not LED replacement) and it worked just fine.
i was thinking just removing the metal standoffs and replacing with a sticky plastic one where needed. eliminates the drilling and position problems
Quoted from statictrance:which connectors? i tested my display board in it (later factory F-14 stock, not LED replacement) and it worked just fine.
i was thinking just removing the metal standoffs and replacing with a sticky plastic one where needed. eliminates the drilling and position problems
All of them, moved from front to back so that when it is mounted using the current standoffs they do not hit the speaker panel.
Hi everyone.
I need to change the two black rubber bands connecting the beacons. It seems that i need to disassemble the middle beacon from the top, to be able to pull the motor out underneath, in order to be able to get the 2 new rubber bands around the axle (is it called a pully?). Is that correct? Or is there an easier way to do it?
Quoted from Phantasize:Hi everyone.
I need to change the two black rubber bands connecting the beacons. It seems that i need to disassemble the middle beacon from the top, to be able to pull the motor out underneath, in order to be able to get the 2 new rubber bands around the axle (is it called a pully?). Is that correct? Or is there an easier way to do it?
If there is another way I would love to know. I had to replace mine and I had to remove the center beacon to do it.
Quoted from Phantasize:Hi everyone.
I need to change the two black rubber bands connecting the beacons. It seems that i need to disassemble the middle beacon from the top, to be able to pull the motor out underneath, in order to be able to get the 2 new rubber bands around the axle (is it called a pully?). Is that correct? Or is there an easier way to do it?
Quoted from bowtech:If there is another way I would love to know. I had to replace mine and I had to remove the center beacon to do it.
I’m doing mine as well here in the next week. Thanks for the info.
Quoted from dung:All of them, moved from front to back so that when it is mounted using the current standoffs they do not hit the speaker panel.
I just took another look and see what you mean. Luckily, I pinged Grumpy and am going to buy his display board. Leaves me stuck with the LED board for now, but oh well. I've never worried about having extra parts on hand.
Quoted from slochar:If anything the close flippers that are up there are what's going to hammer the standups. Just looked to see if they did the weaker coils for the flippers, and nope, 11630's standard strength.
When I was working on my f14 project I found a service bulletin on the ipdb site that said they did change the upper flipper coils to weaker ones as well as unhook the extra flashers on the early run f14 tomcats.
https://www.ipdb.org/files/804/Williams_1987_F_14_Tomcat_Service_Bulletin_41.pdf
Quoted from Pinhead306:When I was working on my f14 project I found a service bulletin on the ipdb site that said they did change the upper flipper coils to weaker ones as well as unhook the extra flashers on the early run f14 tomcats.
https://www.ipdb.org/files/804/Williams_1987_F_14_Tomcat_Service_Bulletin_41.pdf
....I got my 2 missing/removed Flashers back. Steve Richie would be proud!
DEAEE836-2D8D-4BF2-A510-DAB9C94461BD (resized).jpegSo I’ve been noodling how to tackle the front of this cab. A previous owner filled the holes.
Basically I’ve seen two options - drill out the filler and plug with carriage bolts or sand down and paint. It does look like some touch up would be needed either way. The rest of it is in fairly decent shape so I don’t think this is a sand down to the wood type project... thoughts?
82F2B93F-EC64-488E-A243-EA0D303DD7BD (resized).jpegWanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
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Lambertville, MI
Randers
Longueuil, QC
