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(Topic ID: 66172)

F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.


By Hellfire

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 4,622 posts
  • 364 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 21 hours ago by GRUMPY
  • Topic is favorited by 152 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

19 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 4622 posts in this topic. You are on page 92 of 93.
#4551 47 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

If the EOS broke, the coil would cook while you cradle the ball.

I replaced the eos and coil 2 weeks ago. I noticed the flipper binding. Thought maybe the sleeve was bad. Had to break the sleeve out of the new coil. Tried replacing it, new one will only go 1/4 in and have to break it to get out. It's like coil shrunk. That's when I noticed the yellow resistor was broken off.

#4552 47 days ago

That's not a resistor, it's a capacitor intended to minimize arcing on the end of stroke switch. If your coil sleeve will no longer go into the flipper coil, it's toasted. The capacitor being busted off may or may not have something to do with the EOS locking on. (If it was broken and the switch was adjusted too closely, an arc could hold the eos together as a temporary type weld)

The coil sleeve not going into the coil means the coil has been heat damaged, and yes, it's like the bobbin shrunk.

#4553 47 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

That's not a resistor, it's a capacitor intended to minimize arcing on the end of stroke switch. If your coil sleeve will no longer go into the flipper coil, it's toasted. The capacitor being busted off may or may not have something to do with the EOS locking on. (If it was broken and the switch was adjusted too closely, an arc could hold the eos together as a temporary type weld)
The coil sleeve not going into the coil means the coil has been heat damaged, and yes, it's like the bobbin shrunk.

Ok. Thanks. I have another coil coming and a capacitor in a rebuild kit. We will see how it goes.

#4554 46 days ago
Quoted from bowtech:

Ok. Thanks. I have another coil coming and a capacitor in a rebuild kit. We will see how it goes.

When you replace a EOS switch, it needs to be adjusted so it has an 1/8 inch gap when the flipper is in the up position. New switches are not preset.

#4555 46 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

When you replace a EOS switch, it needs to be adjusted so it has an 1/8 inch gap when the flipper is in the up position. New switches are not preset.

Might be my problem, I think it's touching with no gap.

#4556 46 days ago

Vid1900 did a great post on rebuilding flippers, he covers adjusting EOS switches in this guide.

#4557 46 days ago
Quoted from bowtech:

Might be my problem, I think it's touching with no gap.

When the flipper is at rest that's what you want. When it flips is when you want it open. Coil will burn up before long if you like to hold up the flippers (why the flipper fuse never blows in this situation I dunno you'd think it would....)

#4558 46 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

When the flipper is at rest that's what you want. When it flips is when you want it open. Coil will burn up before long if you like to hold up the flippers (why the flipper fuse never blows in this situation I dunno you'd think it would....)

So touching when flipper button is not pressed (at rest) and 1/8 in when flipper button is pushed in? Is that correct?

#4559 46 days ago
Quoted from bowtech:

So touching when flipper button is not pressed (at rest) and 1/8 in when flipper button is pushed in? Is that correct?

Yes, when the flipper is at rest, that switch is what provides the high voltage to the flipper - when you flip, it opens at the full stroke, so you do not burn up the flipper coil. There is still voltage in the flipper to hold it up (that's what the second, higher set of numbers means on some flipper coils - for instance some are labeled 25-450/34-5050 - this means the power stroke is 450 winds of 25 gauge wire, and the hold coil is 5050 winds of 34 gauge wire. Williams flipper coils like the 11630 aren't labeled that way, but they are still constructed the same way.).

#4560 45 days ago

Yup, had the exact same issue on mine, after fiddling with the flippers. I had too small of a gap on the EOS switch when the coil plunger was pulled, resulting in the coil overheating, and then binding after that. That EOS gap is SOOOO important!

#4561 41 days ago

the cpr backglass give a better look than original translite? it look draker on picture.

#4562 41 days ago
Quoted from pinballfan:

the cpr backglass give a better look than original translite? it look draker on picture.

I bought it, it's definitely darker IDK if it's better than the original translite. My translite was in great condition and I thought it was going to be better buts it's super dark, I plan on ordering some martix strips at some point and adding them but I still haven't done it have it full of Comet 2smd Sunlights now. My mirroring isn't good either when it's off it's fine when you turn it on it's full specs you can see through I'm bother asking CPR if that was normal or whatever I'll keep it. I got 2 when they went on sale for Christmas got one for my Totan also and don't think I'll buy another one unless my original translite is really a mess. I'll look for some pics and post it

#4563 41 days ago

You see in normal like the mirroring looks fine but when it's on you see all the specs through it. Probably not normal but not bad enough for me to bother sending it back I'll keep that way. The quality of the glass is good very thick. If you get one just plan on adding some additional strips of light or something.

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#4564 41 days ago

I thought hard about getting the F14 BG from CPR. But decided I could not drop that coin after seeing the quality of the CPR Black Knight glass I recently purchased. If you look at the original peeled BG vs the CPR. The amount of detail loss on the CPR is striking, and the gold paint looks much more metallic vs gold leaf like. Yes I am being very picky here. But it does the job when looking at it from 6 feet away. Not sure why it could not have been much more like the original one.

#4565 41 days ago

New coil installed and oh boy was that switch misadjusted. Can't believe the other coil I put on didn't cook. As it goes with this game she's playing well but now I burned out a beacon bulb. I searched the thread and don't see any saying what number I might need. Can anyone help me here?

#4566 41 days ago
Quoted from bowtech:

New coil installed and oh boy was that switch misadjusted. Can't believe the other coil I put on didn't cook. As it goes with this game she's playing well but now I burned out a beacon bulb. I searched the thread and don't see any saying what number I might need. Can anyone help me here?

Nevermind, I'm an idiot. I figured it out.

1 week later
#4568 33 days ago

Hi guys, it was suggested in a post that I made to ask about my problem here.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f-14-tomcat-spinner-does-not-work-in-game-only-it-test-mode#post-5860537

I got a spinner that works in the Switch and Edge test modes, but will not work in the game.

#4569 33 days ago
Quoted from Brewchap:

#post-5860537

I got a spinner that works in the Switch and Edge test modes, but will not work in the game

Do you have the dip switch settings correct for Williams game on the Rottendog board?

#4570 33 days ago

Hi Grumpy! No I don't have any dip switches on this MPU.

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#4571 33 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Do you have the dip switch settings correct for Williams game on the Rottendog board?

Okay I finally found the solution to this. The spinner switch in game WILL NOT register until the ball has been plunged, gone through the wire ramps, and has landed on the playfield. One the ball is in play on the PF, it will register correctly. Drove me crazy too.

Hope that helps.

#4572 33 days ago
Quoted from wrd1972:

Okay I finally found the solution to this. The spinner switch in game WILL NOT register until the ball has been plunged, gone through the wire ramps, and has landed on the playfield. One the ball is in play on the PF, it will register correctly. Drove me crazy too.
Hope that helps.

Yup me too!
As I mentioned in previous thread, I remember that I had to start a game before it would work. LOL!

#4573 33 days ago
Quoted from Brewchap:

Hi Grumpy! No I don't have any dip switches on this MPU.[quoted image]

OOoo, that must be the brand new revision of Rottendog System 11 MPU?

#4574 33 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

OOoo, that must be the brand new revision of Rottendog System 11 MPU?

Yep the new system 9-11 board. I haven't used one yet.

Quoted from Brewchap:

Hi Grumpy! No I don't have any dip switches on this MPU.[quoted image]

Well if there is nothing wrong with the board then I would try new game ROMs. Does anyone around you have a set you can try.

#4575 33 days ago
Quoted from wrd1972:

Okay I finally found the solution to this. The spinner switch in game WILL NOT register until the ball has been plunged, gone through the wire ramps, and has landed on the playfield. One the ball is in play on the PF, it will register correctly. Drove me crazy too.
Hope that helps.

Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Yup me too!
As I mentioned in previous thread, I remember that I had to start a game before it would work. LOL!

I though that just hitting the credit button to start the game was enough, but the ball has to be in play after it enters the ramps to the playfield in order for the spinner to work. Thank you guys for your help! It working like it should!

#4576 33 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Yep the new system 9-11 board. I haven't used one yet.

Didn't know that it was a new MPU version that I got. I wonder if it will solve the sound problems that I have read about. The sounds from the original board (very bad battery damage with flaky play) and the new RottenDog MPU sound the same to me.

#4577 33 days ago
Quoted from Brewchap:

Didn't know that it was a new MPU version that I got. I wonder if it will solve the sound problems that I have read about. The sounds from the original board (very bad battery damage with flaky play) and the new RottenDog MPU sound the same to me.

They will sound the same. I didn't have any sound issues with the last RD board so you should be good.

#4578 31 days ago

Possibly similar to the last post bowtech made on page 89?

Left flipper return, Right flipper return, and Right Kicker ("sling") doesn't register any points. Left Drain "Rescue" kickback is weak (Though this may not be related). I went through the switch and edge tests and everything registers (57, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63) except for the Right Kicker ("sling") 58. My first thought is to replace the Right kicker switch since it's not registering. I can't imagine that would affect the others ability to register points though. Any thoughts?

#4579 31 days ago

So after all this time owning my Tomcat. I just now realized I have sound from my speaker panel. But the sound from the cabinet speaker is completely missing.

I havent dug in too deep yet, any common problems or obvious places to check?

#4580 31 days ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

any common problems

Blown out speaker?
Bad wire between speaker and sound board?
Bad molex connector?
Cracked header pin on the sound board?

#4581 31 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Blown out speaker?
Bad wire between speaker and sound board?
Bad molex connector?
Cracked header pin on the sound board?

Cracked header pin for the win! I wiggled the connector and it started working. Touched up all the header pins while I had it out. Easy fix.

Thx Grumpy

#4582 31 days ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Cracked header pin for the win!

Playball!!

#4583 30 days ago

anyone out there ever retrofit a newer F-14 display to an early production speaker panel? have a customer with a display board that had some really gnarly 'work' done to it' and he wants to buy a replacement... but would obviously rather use the cheaper mass produced one. i know the model works, cause i tested my later model wms display in it' just the standoffs are different spaced.

#4584 30 days ago
Quoted from statictrance:

anyone out there ever retrofit a newer F-14 display to an early production speaker panel? have a customer with a display board that had some really gnarly 'work' done to it' and he wants to buy a replacement... but would obviously rather use the cheaper mass produced one. i know the model works, cause i tested my later model wms display in it' just the standoffs are different spaced.

I looked at doing it, but decided it wasn't worth the money saved.

The connectors at the top have to be reversed from front to back.
Two holes have to be drilled in the pcb so it can mount.

It will work, but you will void the warranty and only save 100ish. for you doing so.

#4585 30 days ago
Quoted from statictrance:

anyone out there ever retrofit a newer F-14 display to an early production speaker panel? have a customer with a display board that had some really gnarly 'work' done to it' and he wants to buy a replacement... but would obviously rather use the cheaper mass produced one. i know the model works, cause i tested my later model wms display in it' just the standoffs are different spaced.

I have a working one I would sell.

#4586 30 days ago

The Wolffpack system 11a kit is a nice replacement and fits perfectly. All that you have to do is build it. Email for the system 11a as it's not listed on the web site yet.

#4587 30 days ago

Welp, I think I found two of my issues. Rescue kickback has a loose wire and the right bumper diode(?) for the scoring switch is broken.

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#4588 30 days ago

Woops! Those pictures sent way larger than I anticipated. apologies.

#4589 24 days ago
Quoted from dung:

The connectors at the top have to be reversed from front to back.

which connectors? i tested my display board in it (later factory F-14 stock, not LED replacement) and it worked just fine.

i was thinking just removing the metal standoffs and replacing with a sticky plastic one where needed. eliminates the drilling and position problems

#4590 23 days ago
Quoted from statictrance:

which connectors? i tested my display board in it (later factory F-14 stock, not LED replacement) and it worked just fine.
i was thinking just removing the metal standoffs and replacing with a sticky plastic one where needed. eliminates the drilling and position problems

All of them, moved from front to back so that when it is mounted using the current standoffs they do not hit the speaker panel.

#4591 22 days ago

Hi everyone.

I need to change the two black rubber bands connecting the beacons. It seems that i need to disassemble the middle beacon from the top, to be able to pull the motor out underneath, in order to be able to get the 2 new rubber bands around the axle (is it called a pully?). Is that correct? Or is there an easier way to do it?

#4592 22 days ago
Quoted from Phantasize:

Hi everyone.
I need to change the two black rubber bands connecting the beacons. It seems that i need to disassemble the middle beacon from the top, to be able to pull the motor out underneath, in order to be able to get the 2 new rubber bands around the axle (is it called a pully?). Is that correct? Or is there an easier way to do it?

If there is another way I would love to know. I had to replace mine and I had to remove the center beacon to do it.

#4593 21 days ago
Quoted from Phantasize:

Hi everyone.
I need to change the two black rubber bands connecting the beacons. It seems that i need to disassemble the middle beacon from the top, to be able to pull the motor out underneath, in order to be able to get the 2 new rubber bands around the axle (is it called a pully?). Is that correct? Or is there an easier way to do it?

Quoted from bowtech:

If there is another way I would love to know. I had to replace mine and I had to remove the center beacon to do it.

I’m doing mine as well here in the next week. Thanks for the info.

#4594 21 days ago
Quoted from dung:

All of them, moved from front to back so that when it is mounted using the current standoffs they do not hit the speaker panel.

I just took another look and see what you mean. Luckily, I pinged Grumpy and am going to buy his display board. Leaves me stuck with the LED board for now, but oh well. I've never worried about having extra parts on hand.

#4595 20 days ago
Quoted from slochar:If anything the close flippers that are up there are what's going to hammer the standups. Just looked to see if they did the weaker coils for the flippers, and nope, 11630's standard strength.

When I was working on my f14 project I found a service bulletin on the ipdb site that said they did change the upper flipper coils to weaker ones as well as unhook the extra flashers on the early run f14 tomcats.

https://www.ipdb.org/files/804/Williams_1987_F_14_Tomcat_Service_Bulletin_41.pdf

#4596 20 days ago
Quoted from Pinhead306:

When I was working on my f14 project I found a service bulletin on the ipdb site that said they did change the upper flipper coils to weaker ones as well as unhook the extra flashers on the early run f14 tomcats.
https://www.ipdb.org/files/804/Williams_1987_F_14_Tomcat_Service_Bulletin_41.pdf

....I got my 2 missing/removed Flashers back. Steve Richie would be proud!

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#4598 15 days ago

So I’ve been noodling how to tackle the front of this cab. A previous owner filled the holes.

Basically I’ve seen two options - drill out the filler and plug with carriage bolts or sand down and paint. It does look like some touch up would be needed either way. The rest of it is in fairly decent shape so I don’t think this is a sand down to the wood type project... thoughts?

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#4599 15 days ago

Depends on your color matching/touch up skills.

#4600 15 days ago

This would be my first attempt ever... so there’s that

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