I just did this on mine with the help of another more experienced pinhead.

Refer to switch matrix and note that sling switches are not the playfield upright switches, but the end of stroke switches for the sling plunger (wire colors). Slings will still fire even if switch column is out, but will not register points.

I'd bet your whole column 8 is out, including left flipper eos.

Long story short i replaced transistor q46 after confirming it failed continuity test and that did the trick. Confused the hell out of me for awhile
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Thank you very much, 2 questions, where did you aquire the transistor? And any shot of sharing a picture of where that is?

Before you go changing transistors make sure it's not just a broken wire at one of the switches in that column, remembering that they are not necessarily wired in in the order they are shown in the matrix. Trace that Green-Grey wire between all the switches in the column using a meter if possible because sometime the break can be very hard to see. A quick test is to see if any other switch in that column registers in switch test, if they do it's not the transistor.

I think you're on to something with the transistor....

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2n3904 is what you want. Yeah lol mine didn't look like that and it was still bad.

Bobukcat is correct in his advice to first ensure wiring is good prior to replacing transistor. Switch test is also important to verify all switches in column are not registering.
I just jumped to it because this is to the T what I experienced not two weeks ago.

So when I first got into this addiction I started out with a Taxi and High Speed. Long story short I had some issues with them. A cool local repair guy came out and repaired them and showed me some tricks. He left me some new parts in case I had issues. He left me transistor 2n4401 k27. They looked the same so I cobled it in there and everything seems to work. Will this be an issue since it's not the number you suggested? Only issue is the left inlane switch still doesn't register but the rest now work.

Shattered, shadoobie!

I have no clue. I really don't know a ton, the guy I got it from said it is only used as an on off pass and not for voltage, so maybe? Someone that knows more would probably be able to give you a better idea.

Thanks, not my field of specialty either. Like I said things started working again other that that left inlane switch.

2n4401 is a suitable replacement as you can see that things are working except that switch. You probably have a broken wire on it or near it, possibly it shorted to a high voltage switch / coil and that's what caused it to blow up dramatically like that. Switch test mode and an ohm meter (not with the game on) are your friend in this instance. First check for a broken wire as I suggested before, if you don't find a broken wire test / clean the actual switch to see if the contacts are good or possibly dirty.

Thanks, I'll do that in the morning. I started looking for broken wires first as that was the easiest but may have over looked them. I will definitely ohm them too.

On a side note anyone know what pieces I should order for the translite frame I have? The bottom piece is good but he cobbled the side and top with tape.

I'd just leave it as is. I had a hell of a time getting trim to fit mine correctly. If you really want to go the extra mile though... Theres a run of GORGEOUS mirror backglass available. I'd 100% rather have a glass than translite... maybe christmas this year.

https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-backglasses/f14glass/

Can anyone using a translite measure the clear plexiglass portion please. My is cracked and I left my measurements on a piece of paper. Only problem is the game and paper are both 2 hours away my jat my buddies house and I would like to try to cut a new piece and take it with me when I go back this weekend. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I have the clear flasher domes in the back, a clear center topper dome, individual 44 sockets for the inserts, a 4 digit serial number that starts with 9, and a 554 model number.

Now my question is, can I order the less expensive late model display from X-Pin and flip the headers to the other side of the board to ensure a flush fit? Here is my speaker panel. I don't have the manual to check the original display's part number. I sold the original 7 years ago and no longer have the photos.

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I have a early display I can sell you.

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Socks optional?

He was clearly sliding around in them to produce that blurry photo.

At least they are clean.

Thanks but this game is going on location 24/7 and I think it has high voltage issues anyway. I don't mind buying LED displays that don't burn in or outgas but $199 for a late display vs. $289 for an early display is kind of crazy if I can flip the connectors on a late display and drill mounting holes for a good fit. My understanding is the LED blocks don't stick out as far as the original glass, severely limiting viewing angles unless the LED display can sit more flush with the speaker panel.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/early-production-f14-display-help

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f-14-displays-difference-between-early-and-late-production

What does the right inlane combo to the Yagov kicker do? Left to launch does launch bonus, but can't figure out what the opposite does.

Right inlane to center target when lit advances kill towards yagov extra ball

Right, but what does right inline to kicker do? It gives the same light indications as the launch bonus, so I'd assume the kicker does something as well?

Isn’t the kicker on the left?

Right inlane combo to kicker

Hello everyone.

I recently had to replace the MPU with one of the new Rottendog boards with the integrated sound daughter board. The audio is kind of bad. The voices are very scratchy and distorted and the music volume is way too low.

Does anyone know how this can be changed? In particular the music. It basically is missing the soundtrack if you don't want the callouts deafening you.

The cabinet has a good speaker upgrade, so that is not the problem.

The audio issue is probably emulation of the Harris CVSD sound decoder chip. This is difficult to get working properly in software. Unfortunately that aspect may not be fixable.

This has probably been mentioned, but I just upgraded my flippers to an external spring and hot diggity dog what an improvement! So much snappier. Makes the upper playfield way hotter and an already fast game faster.

I attached the springs to the bracket screws, but will likely drill holes in the bracket as per Vid's guide just because it looks cleaner.

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Hello folks, I got a thread started. I got 10 flashes on the MPU and I changed out U27, then tried disconnecting the connectors all except 1J17 and still get 10 flashes. Any help would be appreciated.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f-14-tomcat-sys-11a-10-diagnostic-flashes#post-5733260

I just responded in your thread too but that board needs major, professional help to clean up and resolve the damage from leaking batteries. Good luck!

I sent the board off to be worked on. Thank you for you help.

I need to know what size these screws are. It holds the wire forms in place to the ramp. Tried using PPS but it's a pain in the butt.

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Im in the club

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I forgot to post the obligatory "I joined the Club" response. So, there it is, I guess. Non-working just a few days ago but I've got everything but the third display and the 08C flashers working. I've got a plan for the display that requires parts but currently stumped on the radar flashers. I'll probably post up a thread after looking through the 90 pages here for more info first.

What is the most recent Rom Update?

So the ball won't reset after a drain and I think I found the problem. Can anyone take pictures and show me how this should go together please?

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There you go, don't know what that plastic piece is in the last pic though.

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Thank you very much

That last picture looks like the start button.

Anyone know the part number for the actual spinner? Mine has a wobbly arm that doesn't let it spin too will and will actually block the ball at times.

I have successfully used 50181 / A-7861
Not sure if this is the original part number

can I ask where you purchased it from?

L-1. From an era when they had enough time to finish the software before release.

There are a couple unofficial ones related to tournaments - one with a fixed jackpot value for all players, one with 8 digit 2x16 display update, one with a proc/dmd, probably others.

Sure: pinballshop.nl...so maybe not the best option for you due to shipping costs.

Printed the decals for the spinner on my own

Working on another F14 for a friend. This fuse keeps blowing on startup. No transistors on his rottendog board look bad or toasty. All coils on purple/yellow arent working. Flippers are working fine.

Where should I start hunting? All diodes on these coils look intact... no obvious burnt coils. I have a fuse breaker on the way to help diagnose this without wasting a bunch of fuses.

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Just curious, why is there a UTP cable running through the backbox?

I'd start by testing the drive transistors for all those coils, I suspect you'll find one shorted. If none test shorted the breaker will help you determine which one is locking on at power up, if it isn't that you'll need to check the diodes and coils for a short.

You have to use a multimeter to determine if a part is good/bad. Just looking at it will not answer many questions.
Check voltages too, just remember in many cases once you "just look at a friends ****" you usually own all future issues as "you touched it.. must be your fault". Electronics is not hard, but a good understanding in it is better than poking around blindly.

Respectfully, I disagree, and if anyone ever drops that line on me I'll tell them to drop my number too. Anyone who owns a pinball machine for more than about 12 seconds should very quickly realize that things break all.the.damn.time. At any given moment there seems to always be some stupid quirk with every machine I own or play.

I get what you're saying, people expect a lot of things, but I know Flash personally and he isn't doing this as some sort of high priced service, he's doing it because he can't help but try to assist people who truly don't have any idea what the hell they're doing. And I assure you, he's not just blindly poking around, either...

Kind of a crappy unnecessary response post to him if you ask me, but you do you.

All coils have been ohmed out reading 0.00 ohms. In my experience with original boards 99% of the time a blown transistor has obvious damage and ive swapped out many of them. Never worked with rottendog before and my post was more of a curiosity on how other people find their issues. Maybe theres a faster way than what I know of.

I suppose I will pull the board out and test each transistor one at a time to verify one isnt just out of range.

A previous owner has soldered the GI wires directly to the lower right on power supply. So another owner put a small bus bar on the right presumably to be able to unplug them. It's a bit of a hack job in places.

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You need to test the mosfets for the 50 volt coils, coils with the purple/yellow power wire.