Going to be working slowly on getting these added in. Forgot to buy corresponding kill targets so I'll order more at some point, probably either clear or green to match the bulbs I used.

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Thanks I'll take a look. I did adjust it but it was to bring it farther out. Maybe I just made it worse.

Got my rotisserie built and playing with test fit! Almost time for surgery

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NICE!

I'm having a strange issue with one of the upper flippers. It will work fine for a game or two and then it'll mostly stop working. You will see it twitch a little when the flipper button is pushed but it won't fire. It does not appear to be getting warm at all. I'm going to take this opportunity to replace the flipper coils with the proper green ones, it currently has the same coils as the main flippers, and also get some new EOS switches. These are arching quite bad when I test with the playfield up. I had already done the standard flipper rebuild so is there anything else I should be looking at?

Adjust the EOS to have more closed contact pressure.

Ok, will give that a try.

I tried that but it didn't change anything. Here is a video of what I am seeing. It will get worse then get better and even seem like it's fine for a bit then not work.

Hard to tell but that doesn't look like a new EOS switch. Are the contacts clean?

That is not a new one. I just ordered one since they are cheap but probably won't be here soon with everything going on. I tried cleaning this one with a fine metal file but that didn't change anything either. Going to go back over vids guide on flippers.

The contacts are made of tungsten and require a lot of filing to clean the surface. You need to also file the cabinet switch contacts for this flipper too.

Well I think I found the problem. One of the contacts on the EOS switch is missing. Don't know how I didn't notice it last night (might have been the beer). Luckily, at some point, I had bought a few replacements. Will also replace the capacitors while I have everything taken apart. Whoever did it last time used what looks like a sandwich bag twist tie to hold it on lol.

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Vid's guide says the EOS distance should be 3.2 mm. Looking at the manual (I think as I've read it wrong before) for F-14 says it must have a gap of .062 inch or ~1.5 mm. The others look to be 1.5mm. Just want to make sure I got this right.

That makes it harder to file.

Use this ^^ number, or 1/8 inch for English measuring folks.

ok thanks, I'll need to re-gap all of the flippers then as they are all 1.5mm right now.

Game played fine through about 10 games in a row and all is working again. Flipper feels much more solid now as well. I did get a strange error on boot up after finishing the fix. It showed U10 PIA Failure but then has booted up normal ever since.

Glad I had those EOS switches on hand and Marco allowed me to cancel my order. Appreciate the help as always.

Only nagging issue I have is I can't get the spinner to settle consistently upright.

Mine has that issue also. It likes to report the right spinner as a stuck switch.. But it works fine Durning normal play.

ok quick question about the gap. Is the gap between the contacts or between the metal blades because this pic from Vid's thread does not look to me like 3.2mm. Mine look like the picture and between the contacts is 1.5mm

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Contacts

As you have seen 1/16 inch gap will work fine while new. But as parts wear this small gap will quickly disappear and either melt the fuse or coil. Setting it to 1/8 inch should get you one million flips and then replace the EOS switch and repeat. Easiest way to set the gap is using a 1/8 drill bit as a measuring device.

Got an F14 about a month ago, woot! The wife and I have been enjoying it immensely . However, pretty regularly the ball gets stuck in the rescue lane before draining, so you have to wobble the machine back and forth to get it to finally drain. I plan to take a closer look this weekend to see if there's a quick fix, but thought I'd see if anyone else had experienced this issue.

Where in the lane is it getting stuck? At the bottom where the metal rail is bent?

Right in that little cut out. The rescue works as expected when lit during game play.

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A perfect opportunity to nudge the ball back into play.

Oh, believe me, we've taken advantage of that! During multiball when the ball gets stuck and we light the rescue... it'll be just enough on the switch to kick it back up

Check for the rubber grommet, is it missing?

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Making some headway!

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BladeFury that was quick! Any tips or suggestions to make it easier? My playfield swaps is a few projects away.. I get a little scared thinking about the work involved.

GRUMPY grommet appears to be intact

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Magnetized quarter inch bit is a must the rest just take your time didn’t have to re-solder a whole bunch..Lots of pictures

Playfield back in the machine on the home stretch but will be pausing for minute as I’m getting some powder coating done next

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That looks so damn good. Crazy jealous!

Side note: the old PF looks better than mine. That makes me very sad lol

@bladefury I’m swooning over here! That’s some great work you’re doin’

Then either the plunger is worn/ the incorrect part or apron wasn't installed correctly.

Oh flipper problems?

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Wow I would have expected the left flipper to break like that before the right, with the yagov kickback hitting it all the time Anything can happen in pinball lol

Did that to my high speed the day after finishing it, but it was clearly my own fault as I was trying to adjust flipper position and didn't loosen it enough (rushed adjusting, yay).

Purple flipper rubber, bring me all your hate

Also realized I have this thing at 7.5-8 degrees of slope (depending on whether I use the 7.5 measurement with my phone in the case, sitting on a pop socket, or if I try it case-less which could skew because of the camera lens) and it's naaaaasty. The ball drops like a lead weight. But I'm leaving it like this -- F-14 is supposed to be brutal.

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GRUMPY I’m thinking it’s an apron issue. It covers just a bit of the copyright notice.

But after putting the apron back haven’t experienced the issue again

I was thinking that, also. My high speed had issues with the apron. It was bent and in the way of the kickout. Had to carefully bend it back and no more issues. Installed incorrectly I could see issues also. Glad you're up and working again!

The tab of the apron isn't going into this bracket fully. Make sure that the tab isn't bent and the face of the apron that the ball rolls against is 90 degrees with the top of the apron. You should be able to read the copyright/logo plus some black paint below it too.

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Another dead giveaway is if you notice ANY feeling of looseness when you pull up on the apron. The metal brackets have to be tight but loose enough to let the apron slide in. Too lose and it wiggles around. Too tight and you can't slide it in (giggity). It takes some adjustment to get it exactly where it needs to be.

Well crap. Anyone know the part number to replace what I just broke? For the right loop (gate).
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Looks like part SW-1A-168 (unobtainium), A-11664 (unobtainium), and Action Pinball says this part will work also..?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=18807

Don’t know the specific P/N, but you ‘ll find it either in the game manual on ipdb.org or Williams Parts Manual on Planetary Pinball website.

Yeah, doesn't look like anyone stocks the part.. Hoping this gottleib part works, I guess. I'll have to swap my diode over.

There’s a used spinner assembly with the right switch for sale on eBay. Not cheap but probably worth grabbing. Maybe he’ll sell just the switch if you ask.

That's not terrible. The gottleib switch is $10 and the decals (mine are missing) are $6.

Good catch. Might be worth just grabbing that instead.

Hey guys picked up a project tomcat a few months ago and have been picking away at some issues. I found some wires dangling under the playfield and I’m thinking they go to some flashers? I pushed them through the playfield and I can see where there used to be sockets screwed into the playfield. Any reason why these would have been taken out? I have an early version without the lamp boards under the playfield. Also are all 4 flippers supposed to be 11630? Or are the top two different?

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I assume they go to flashers because there is domes on the plastics right there.

Currently in the middle of swapping out playfields and on top of reflowing all solder connections and replacing diodes, I am also trying to get the diverter gate in-line with the service bulletin to prevent binding. Looking at my assembly, I am missing the insulating bracket and can't seem to find it anywhere. Any recommendations on replacements or know where I can find one?

Thanks in advance!

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Yes there are supposed to be flashers there, but there was a service bulletin from Williams to disconnect them because they could cause a short with those standup targets.

I've put them back on mine and insulated the lamp sockets with some heat shrink tubing.