Is the multiball music supposed to end when you drain all but one ball? Mine continues until start next ball.
Is the multiball music supposed to end when you drain all but one ball? Mine continues until start next ball.
Hi,
In my f14 was no beacon Motor.
Now i need the diamensions from the spacers and the screws to mount the Motor.
Can someone look at his f14 and can give me the diamensions?
Quoted from gearheaddropping:Does anyone have comments or pictures of the CPR mirrored F14 backglass?
further back in this thread there are multiple people that show pics......
Quoted from Crile1:Is the multiball music supposed to end when you drain all but one ball? Mine continues until start next ball.
Unlike newer machines, multi ball does not end until you lose the last ball.
Anyone have any advice for soldering new GI sockets in? I have 8 sockets that need replaced due to previous owner clearcoating the playfield with bulbs in the sockets. Most of them are deep in the back of the cabinet. Trying to find a quick way to throw together some kind of rotisserie so the soldering will be easier.
Tips appreciated!!
Been working on an F14 for a friend of mine. Almost everything seems to be back to its normal operation. I just cant figure out why flasher #5 wont flash. All flashers except #5 work in solenoid test. Bulbs have been tested in other sockets and are working. I guess I need to break out the multimeter.
Where would you check first?
Quoted from FLASHBALL:Been working on an F14 for a friend of mine. Almost everything seems to be back to its normal operation. I just cant figure out why flasher #5 wont flash. All flashers except #5 work in solenoid test. Bulbs have been tested in other sockets and are working. I guess I need to break out the multimeter.
Where would you check first?
The big resistors mounted on the small boards under the playfield.
I swapped all my flashers to leds and can’t seem to get them to work. I removed the warming resistors to make them not lock on, but now they don’t flash ever.
I Must have misunderstood how to get the led flashers to work or is something else up?
Quoted from jdoz2:I swapped all my flashers to leds and can’t seem to get them to work. I removed the warming resistors to make them not lock on, but now they don’t flash ever.
I Must have misunderstood how to get the led flashers to work or is something else up?
Take a pic of the resistor board.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Take a pic of the resistor board.
Ok, will do. The resisters are removed on every board and the wires going to them are untouched from original
Quoted from jdoz2:Ok, will do. The resisters are removed on every board and the wires going to them are untouched from original
You need to have R-2 and R-3 installed on every resistor board.
hey guys.. New problem with my f14. Game starts up but when you plunge the ball it goes up drops into the first lock area, instead of firing it out it acts as if the ball drained and moves onto the next ball.
Quoted from fisherdaman:hey guys.. New problem with my f14. Game starts up but when you plunge the ball it goes up drops into the first lock area, instead of firing it out it acts as if the ball drained and moves onto the next ball.
mine did this. had some crazy board issues. I shipped it out to get board repair done...which if you search this thread for my name, you may actually see, I forgot if I did troubleshooting. My board had some crazy logic issues.
Quoted from koen12344:I believe it also does that if the fuse for those solenoids is blown.
I hate to be that guy but, where is the fuse located?
Quoted from fisherdaman:I hate to be that guy but, where is the fuse located?
I think a lot of the solenoids on the pf are not fused. I had to add a board to do this.
Here is a little help
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/black-knight-fuses
PIcutre is what i found on the manual for the power board. You can see, they hav a solenoid fuse but 1 fuse for all? ya, there is a reason to add the fuse board
There are also fuses behind/near the rectifier/capacitor in the lower right of the head and some under the PF for the magnets.
Here is the solenoid saver board
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/special-solenoid-saver-board-for-wms-3-7
I totally recommend that. Help save from the locked on coils and blown transistors.
Screen Shot 2019-11-27 at 12.20.15 PM (resized).pngQuoted from fisherdaman:I hate to be that guy but, where is the fuse located?
I wasn't at home to check, but I believe its fuse F2 on the power supply board. My F14 was blowing that fuse occasionally and the same thing happened
Quoted from koen12344:I wasn't at home to check, but I believe its fuse F2 on the power supply board. My F14 was blowing that fuse occasionally and the same thing happened
Ya on power supply board f2 is for solenoids.
I'm seriously considering the led replacement board for the display. I've seen two different versions out there.
and
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PS-11610
I have found more info on the pinscore version. Has anyone tried the other one? It's $50 cheaper.
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:I've seen two different versions out there.
I like the pinscore better.
just joined this club about a week ago with the purchase of an f-14 tomcat locally. anyways my machine has a couple weird little issues. first off sometimes it takes a few on/offs before it will properly fire up. sometimes the display wont come on or it will make a weird sound. turning it on and off a few times and it will turn on properly. and secondly all the sounds are coming out of the bottom speaker the top speakers are doing nothing. ive checked the wiring for them and it all seems to be connected, but no sounds. any ideas what the issues could be?
Quoted from C0untDeM0net:I'm seriously considering the led replacement board for the display. I've seen two different versions out there.
https://www.thepinballwizard.net/rottendog-circuit-boards/williams/data-east-4-player-7-digit-led-display-board-classic-orange-dis200/
and
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/PS-11610
I have found more info on the pinscore version. Has anyone tried the other one? It's $50 cheaper.
I had a rottendog led display in mine and I think it looked great. Probably can't go wrong with either.
Quoted from Clizifer:any ideas what the issues could be?
Check the outputs of the power supply.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Check the outputs of the power supply.
would the outputs affect the speakers?
sometimes it will fire up fine first try without issue, but those upper speakers never work
Quoted from Clizifer:would the outputs affect the speakers?
It might, but you may also have multiple issues.
Diagnostic help wanted for my brother in law.
Issue: upper flipper is rapidly chattering (machine gunning?) when pressing the flipper button. Once you let go, it stops moving. The bottom flipper tied to the same flipper button works normally.
Any troubleshooting tips would be appreciated!
Quoted from AudioHaven:Diagnostic help wanted for my brother in law.
Issue: upper flipper is rapidly chattering (machine gunning?) when pressing the flipper button. Once you let go, it stops moving. The bottom flipper tied to the same flipper button works normally.
Any troubleshooting tips would be appreciated!
Broken wire on the hold winding (smaller gauge wire) of the upper flipper coil. You can usually see the small wire broken were it attaches to the solder lug. Take the broken wire and unwrap one turn off the coil and solder it back to the lug. You will have to sand the varnish off of the wire where you need to solder.
Are the upgraded light boards still available anywhere for the 2 long strips of blue and red lights that change them to 555's instead of the 44 sockets?
Starting a playfield swap and would like to do that upgrade
Quoted from BertoDRINK1:Are the upgraded light boards still available anywhere for the 2 long strips of blue and red lights that change them to 555's instead of the 44 sockets?
Starting a playfield swap and would like to do that upgrade
Any particular reason why you'd want the 555s? Over the years I've had far less trouble with the bayonet style bulb sockets than the 555 sockets. Id assume just preference for ease of changing them out?
Quoted from FLASHBALL:Any particular reason why you'd want the 555s? Over the years I've had far less trouble with the bayonet style bulb sockets than the 555 sockets. Id assume just preference for ease of changing them out?
I think the repro playfields are dimpled for individual sockets, probably not a big deal but something to be aware of.
I have a wiring question.
Looks like someone along the line added a wire from a fuse in the backbox to the right side VUK coil. When ball ejects it triggers the knocker and when the knocker triggers a locked ball ejects.
Has anyone seen anything like this? My inclination is to desolder one end and see what happens.
1EA22D7A-15F5-48A8-9CB3-5A0267C24B13 (resized).jpeg81714E56-1F69-4BDF-956C-A29D4F0B0C18 (resized).jpegC46D21B3-C043-48BA-8411-40ED33A6193B (resized).jpegQuoted from schwism:I have a wiring question.
Looks like someone along the line added a wire from a fuse in the backbox to the right side VUK coil. When ball ejects it triggers the knocker and when the knocker triggers a locked ball ejects.
Has anyone seen anything like this? My inclination is to desolder one end and see what happens.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Almost seems like a hack to try and fuse that coil. I would remove and install the solenoid saver instead. This will do the job correctly
There’s no reason that coil needs a fuse. I used the solenoid saver on the diverter coils since a short plunge can cause those coils to stay on too long.
Quoted from schwism:Has anyone seen anything like this? My inclination is to desolder one end and see what happens.
There is a break in the purple/yellow wire daisy chain, so someone added this yellow wire to supply power back to the purple/yellow.
Quoted from GRUMPY:There is a break in the purple/yellow wire daisy chain, so someone added this yellow wire to supply power back to the purple/yellow.
Grumpy, bear with me since I’m new to the SS world. If I understand this I should be looking for a break in the purple/yellow path and repair that. I can see that what was done was a quick and dirty solution. Is that correct?
Quoted from schwism:Grumpy, bear with me since I’m new to the SS world. If I understand this I should be looking for a break in the purple/yellow path and repair that. I can see that what was done was a quick and dirty solution. Is that correct?
Get your DMM and check continuity of that wire from the coil lug to other places that wire is supposed to connect to, ie. fuse.
Quoted from schwism:Grumpy, bear with me since I’m new to the SS world. If I understand this I should be looking for a break in the purple/yellow path and repair that. I can see that what was done was a quick and dirty solution. Is that correct?
Correct. If you need more help with this just ask.
Thanks, Grumpy. I took some time last night to locate where the purple/yellow wire goes. Looks like the Yagov kicker is on top of the playfield and covered up so I’ll have to work some to get to it. I’ll check continuity between points and report back.
I get a switch error for my left sling every time I power on my game. Both of the left sling switches work just fine during switch test and during gameplay.
What could cause this?
Quoted from FLASHBALL:Both of the left sling switches work just fine during switch test and during gameplay.
This is the coil activation switch that is working.
Quoted from FLASHBALL:I get a switch error for my left sling every time I power on my game.
This is the sling score switch that is not working. It is under the play field. May need to be cleaned, adjusted, have the diode replaced or may have a broken wire.
Quoted from GRUMPY:This is the sling score switch that is not working. It is under the play field.
Thanks Grumpy. That was it.
Still having my left kickback and Jagov kicker firing randomly during gameplay. Found a broken diode on my right flipper. I will replace it and see if that helps.
Quoted from FLASHBALL:Still having my left kickback and Jagov kicker firing randomly during gameplay
Look for a bad diode on the snubber relays.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Look for a bad diode on the snubber relays.
Diodes tested good on the relays but I had forgot I had a broken capacitor leg on one. Changed out the capacitor and all the burnt resistors on the other 3 snubbers. Fixed the broken flipper coil diode as well.
Playing perfect now. Thanks for the guidance!
20190901_211820 (resized).jpg20200110_193532 (resized).jpgQuoted from schwism:I’m still a SS rookie and have a sounds question.
When I run diagnostics I get appropriate sounds for everything but 00,01 and 05. For those 3 if I put my ear next to a speaker I can faintly hear the sounds being played.
Any ideas on how to fix this?
I'm sure you've searched and found my long ordeal with this issue.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/help-troubleshooting-sound-on-sys11-mpu/page/3
look at post #101
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