Anyone have a spare plastic as pictured? Mind is chipped. Not looking for a new set. This is the only piece on my game with an issue.

Thanks,
RC

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Found a spare. But its broken at the bottom. Sorry @treborlicec

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Thanks for looking. That's exactly where mine is broken. I have a metal fender washer covering the damage for now. Looks ok with all the metal already on the game. Seems less common for repro guys to do the "common break" or single plastics these days. I recall it used to be easy to buy a set of repro plastics that were always broken on certain games without having to buy a set.

could scan it and make a new one?

I did a semi-temp fix where I cut a piece of lexan the exact shape of the plastic. Glued it to the bottom of the plastic, and drilled a hole where the broken part is. I did it for a sorcerer and its held for over 9 months. Makes it slightly thicker plastic but allows it to stay attached. just a thought

Has anyone installed a remote battery holder in their F14? If so, please post a picture. I have them in 2 of my other machines, but can’t figure out the proper placement of the wooden “batteries” for F14. Thanks!

My f14 is alive and working! yay

My board came with the nvram. I'd recommend going that route, but I'm not sure how hard the install was.

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I'm really excited to be joining this club today. I'll be picking up the machine later this afternoon. From what I understand it's in pretty rough shape as it's been sitting in a basement for the better part of 20 years. It's a friend of a friends machine and I can't really argue with free if you can get it out of my house . It apparently does power on but throws an error. I'll find out what that error is tonight after I check it over really well. Hopefully it's something easy to repair.

This is my first williams system 11 machine so I'm sure I'll be needing some help getting it up and running. I know to test out the fuses and make sure they are the right values before powering on. Also to take a good look at all the capacitors to make sure they are not bulging. Hopefully it has not been stored with the batteries in it. What else should I be on the lookout for before powering it on to see what the error is?

The error is likely "adjust failure" or "factory settings" and is being caused by dead batteries. First thing to do is remove them and check the area for alkaline corrosion. Hopefully you can save the MPU, but even if not, the game is free. Congrats.

Congrats. The first thing to look at is the batteries. The error is likely an 'ADJUSTMENT FAILURE' or 'FACTORY SETTING' that are caused by dead or missing batteries. If it has been sitting there for 20 years then you may have some fuzzy green alkaline corrosion to deal with.

Check this site out for info on this as well as all kinds of great info on System 11:

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index3.htm#factory

Check this site out for info on the adjustment/factory errors as well as all kinds of great diagnostic and repair info on System 11:

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index3.htm#factory

Check this site out for info on these errors as well as all kinds of great diagnostic & repair info on System 11:

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/wms11/index3.htm#factory

I installed NVRAM from pinitech.com for my F-14 and it works great. It does require you to unsolder the existing RAM and install a socket though.

Excellent, thanks so much. I'll start looking at that site now Will post some pics later once I get it into the house and start taking a look at it.

That’s what my fear was, I haven’t done my own yet, as I send all my used games boards out for repair/update and they usually come back with it installed

We were able to get the machine back to my house yesterday. Took more work getting it out of the dudes basement than into mine luckily. It looks like there were some interesting mods done to this machine. It looks like it was originally for France on the 220v power but has been converted to 110v. There were no batteries in the holder but a remote hookup was done. The really strange duracel battery that was hooked up to the remote wires was really corroded but was taped to the bottom of the head so no damage to circuit boards. Some of the fuses were bypassed with a wire and solder. I'll need to replace those and see if they pop again.

The error was the adjustment failure and after setting the machine to free play it did fire up and I was able to play a game. The bottom left display is not functional but the other three are perfect. I'll need to figure that out. Most of the playfield and backglass bulbs are working and the rotating beacons do rotate so bonus there. Nearly every single insert is raised and the mylar is coming up so that will need to be addressed as well. All of the kicker solenoids are working and so is the diverter. The rescue kicker even works. A number of the circle targets are not registering and it does not register when a ball drains so will need to figure that out. Overall though I was able to play a game on it last night which I was not expecting.

With all that said what would you all tackle first? I want to get some new legs for it as they are really badly rusted and the leg levellers are completely fused. I think I also need to either get some new mylar but I was also thinking about just getting this for it and not putting mylar back on after cleaning it up

https://www.playfield-protectors.com/Home/Details/pfzd0mjPa0meWlo3yG-HmQ?categoryid=22&category=Playfield%20Protectors&name=F-14%20Tomcat%20%7C%201987

What is the best way to get those inserts levelled? I've seen the hammer and block of wood method as well as the large clamp method but for those that have fixed it I'd love to know what you did.

Looks like I scored a mostly working machine. I'm really excited to get started cleaning it up.

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A couple of pics of the circuit boards and some playfield shots.

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Those legs will probably clean up with a little evaporust bath and some polishing. I wouldn't spend the money on legs just yet. My first step is always cleaning and deciding what is broken/needs replacement. A close second is getting any corrosion on the boards dealt with and removing batteries from the board if I can with either a remote holder or NVRAM.

Your speaker on the backbox is not factory, it's too small. You can get those from Newark electronics for pretty cheap. I got a full set for my F-14 for about $25 shipped.

Which remote holder do you recommend? Since it's already wired for a remote holder I'd like to go that route. I'll take another look at the legs. There is also some cabinet work that needs to be done to stop it from deteriorating but it looks in pretty good shape.

I usually do NVRAM on my machines but as you said this one looks like it is already wired for a remote holder. I think Pinball Life or Marco would carry them.

Also I'd sort out why the fuses are jumpered before I play the game too much, something ain't right there!

apart from the bypassed fuses I found another questionable repair on the main board to the right of the battery box. For some reason a jumper wire was added from a resistor to one of the pins on a chip. There are also a few component replacements that don't look very well done. Most right under that jumper. The last image is on the far left side of the board. I don't see any more "mods" apart from these on the main board at least.

I was able to fix the drain switch. It just needed adjustment.
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Welcome to the wonderful world of reimported pinball machines. Many of my pins have come through container buys from Italy with a local group of collectors. We have seen some pretty 'imaginative' and 'innovative' repairs by those european operators. We have fun learning and getting together for repair parties, with many of the machines coming together every June for our nwpinball Northwest Pinball And Arcade Show. I hope it's up and playing soon, and when it is, leave the attract mode on...

It does look like there have been some interesting things done to it. Both bottom displays have been replaced and it looks like the person just cut the old one off and solder the new one to the old pins. I'm most concerned about that jumper that was added. It's the only really strange thing I've found so far. I'm guessing a trace blew somewhere and that was used to get power to the chip but that's just a guess.
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Another interesting find. Those fuses that are bypassed with wire are not blown. I wonder if the guy didn't have the right fuse and made his own. About to head to the store to see if I can find some replacement fuses and just replace them all to start with.

I spent a good bit of the day stripping all of the plastics off the playfield, adjusting switches, and inspecting the boards. I think I may be incredibly lucky. After adjustment every single switch is functioning now. I still need to adjust sensitivity a bit but they all work. Other than the bottom left display not working it looks like this is going to be a mostly cosmetic repair. (knock on wood). It appears the flippers were recently rebuilt as there is 0 play in them and they are all very strong. Only two lights appear to be out as well. And this thing has been sitting unplugged for many years.

I already have a fuse kit on order for it as I could not find all of the right fuses near me. That should be here next week so I won't be firing it back up until then.

As far as replacement things to order:
- I think I'm going to order that playfield protector and start working on removing the mylar. Once removed I'll work on levelling the inserts.
- Two of the plastics are broken so I'm looking for some replacements now.
- Two of the stickers are incredibly faded and it looks like Marco has them in stock for cheap
- I also need to try and salvage these legs so I can adjust the playfield angle. It's near 6 degrees right now and the game plays slow.
- Since the game was free to me I'm thinking of buying the LED upgrade kit.
- I need to find a battery holder.

I have no idea where to start on the non working display. I suppose I could cut it out and test it to see if it works. Since it's completely non functional I'm guessing it's dead.

F14 is one of those games I will never part with .., its just to dam cool..
Me and my dad are workimg on some cool mods for f14 and other games as well.., i will post when the interactive f14 mod is done....

I'm trying to figure out what this repair is on the board. I found the chip in u45 is a Quad 2-Input NOR Gates

https://www.mouser.com/datasheet/2/308/7402-1190061.pdf

The trace was cut intentionally and the wire ran to the resistor the trace went to. I'm not sure why as that path doesn't look damaged at all while the other ones do look damaged and repaired. Maybe this was done to make it more reliable?

Found the schematic on page 55 in the top right corner of the manual https://www.ipdb.org/files/804/Williams_1987_F_14_Tomcat_Full_Manual.pdf

I'm still going thru the schematic but I think this path might be display related. Anyone know anything about these boards and what that section is doing?

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This is the special solenoid section. The jumper is on special solenoid #3.

Still searching for my elusive Jagov kill switch error that releases multiball before I hit the release. Investigated all my little relays under the playfield today and discovered mostly all of the resistors are burnt and one of the capacitors is broken. Not sure if this is the source of my issue but definitely needs fixing.

Ive discovered though that when I manually lock all 3 balls the only thing that releases them early is when I am rapidly hitting the flippers. It will add one of the kills and launch the left release and right release out, leaving the center right ball locked.

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Check the diodes of the flipper coils if damaged.
Often reverse current after switching a coil off can cause these problems, if the impulse is not deleated.

Thanks. According to the manual that solenoid is unused. I don't think I'll worry about that repair since things all seem to be working. Now to figure out the display issue. I suppose I could just be ok with #3 not working as it's not used that much in the game.

Crap, put f14 on route Friday and got a call today it stopped ejecting balls when starting a game :/

Problem SOLVED!!! Had 2 broken diodes on flipper coils and also one coil only had one across all three terminals!! Played several games and not one problem yet!!!

Thank you so much for the suggestion @Averell!!

Next project is to tackle Vids thread to bring back the original flashers!

I have written a manual with pictures to reinstall the flashers... it's in German but not too difficult to understand.
You can use DeepL as translator to understand the text in detail.
Keep an eye to the isolation of the bulb sockets - that's the main problem why Williams removed the flashers!

regards
Averell

Manual attached...
Anleitung_F-14_Proto-Flasher.pdf

Man I should check mine too. Used game and I didn’t go through it completely.

Went to the bar and luckily it was a stuck ball. I checked the switches and one looks hacked with a bolt/nut instead of a rivet holding the switch blades together. I tightened it down and ordered two new ones

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Oh that's a good one.

The last 5 days I've been basically cleaning up the playfield and stripping the machine. I decided that the insert graphics needed to be replaced so I've been removing them with a plastic razor blade. Glad I have a box of 100 as I'm using one blade per insert. It's working quickly and not hurting the playfield or inserts. I've also been playing with some LED replacement bulbs from amazon. I want to keep the gi lights incandescent but have the insert lights colored led. So far it looks pretty darn good. In the pic I've only replaced the red and blue arrows going up. In person the red is lit even with the blue. These are the led's

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XHYP228

Today the playfield protector arrived from Germany. It was pricey but I think it will be worth it as the playfield is pretty beat up. Almost have the playfield stripped enough to put it on. Next up continued graphic removal from the rest of the inserts and then hopefully by the early next week the new graphics will be here from planetary pinball.

A question for you all. In cleaning the playfiled some of the paint came up near the left sling. It's in the blue and black dotted area. I know the guides on here say to use airbrush paints but for such a small area is that the best option? I don't plan to fix up any other areas than this one since I made this oopsie.

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May have to let that one go. I repainted all the blue on my playfield and recreating the dots was something I was unable to achieve.

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thanks for that. The paint job looks nice on yours. Maybe if I can be very accurate with a toothpick I can get some blue paint in there to minimize it some. If I was clear coating I'd probably grab the air brush and just paint that area solid blue but we'll see. I'm struggling to figure how far I want to go in a restoration. I've already spent about $350 and not sure how much more I want to spend fixing up this "free" machine. Still have that bottom left display out as well that I'm not sure how to start diagnosing.

This is a professional repair of the playfield. It has been in existence for five years without wear or damage. Not exactly cheap, but of very high quality.
All is clear coated, no protector.

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Beautiful!

Where can I get those stickers like what is in the top left corner for the locks?

I've seen them on eBay

ebay.com link: Williams F 14 Tomcat Pinball Decals Mod Yagov and Lift Off Stickers set

Really nice looking machine Averell.

Quick question for you all. How do you change the bulbs on those 5 red flashers at the back of the playfield? One of mine is out and I can't figure it out or see back there well enough to see how the bulbs are hooked in there. Looked in the manual and did't see anything

You pretty much need to pull the playfield out. Early production machines have individual sockets and later ones have a circuit board back there. The individual socket wires tend to break off when they get caught on the harnesses in the back. I installed a piece of poster board around mine to protect them. Wish I took pictures.

Ah thanks for that. Mine is one of the later ones with the circuit board. I took my phone camera and took a look back there and it looks like there are two wing nuts on either end that allow you to remove the board and change the bulbs. Going to give it a try in a few. Thanks

Question for you all. I have the playfield stripped, all of the inserts are cleaned and levelled, and I'm nearly ready to install the graphics from Planetary Pinball. I got the non-laminated version. I'm planning to clean up the inserts as best as I can by wet sanding 600-1000 to get them as polished as possible. Is there any thing else that should be done to them before installing these graphics? In vid's restoration post he talks about waterslide decals and I think these are peel and stick so very different. Has anyone installed these and have any suggestions?

One interesting thing I found was that someone installed a center post on this pin and removed the original rebound bars and replaced them with smaller ones. I'm planning to put it back to original so does anyone know what type of wire would be needed to fabricate two rebound bars? I found them at bay area amusements but it's $6.50 to ship $2.50 parts.

Also I'm looking for the bottom graphic plastic of the attached. I can only find it in a complete kit and this is the only plastic I need to replace so would like to find a used one in better shape than this one if I can.
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New targets are in and my new Inko rectifier board/kit! Routed f14 is still playing well!

Avrell,

Perhaps I'm the only one, but I'm having a problem trying to translate your manual into English. Could you post an English version for us?

Good Afternoon. I had posted an issue I was having with the 6 flashers at the back of the playfield several months ago, and with the gracious help from @Grumpy, and several others, I was able to fix them by tracking down, a couple of bad resistors, and replacing those resisitor boards. Which brings me to today. 2 quit working again, and I've determined the lamp sockets in that back circuit board are bad. I decided to replace all the sockets with new ones, so I removed them from the board then started looking for new ones. I cant find any exactly like the originals. On the originals, there was no mounting bracket, and the terminals pointed straight down and were soldered directly to the board. I was able to find the ones in the attached pictures, but Im curious what you guys who know what you're doing would do. Would you bend the terminals down, and snip them to a thinner width to fit in the holes in the board, and solder them in? Or do I need to find the correct lamp socket. Unfortunately, the originals have been tossed. Nobody has replacement boards, and I can't find a used one.

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