F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.

(Topic ID: 66172)

F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.


By Hellfire

5 years ago



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  • 3,758 posts
  • 292 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by GRUMPY
  • Topic is favorited by 115 Pinsiders

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There are 3758 posts in this topic. You are on page 76 of 76.
#3751 8 days ago
Quoted from CTHOMAS1998:

Flasher 07C nothing anywhere, but I recall a Service Bulletin about that, will check that out.

Left out by the factory. But it can be reconnected if you want to.

Quoted from CTHOMAS1998:

it appears 03C is not working on the back board, or the playfield. Will check resisitor boards

Look for the flasher board with the black/orange wire, check the resistance of the larger resistor closer to the blk/org wire.

Quoted from CTHOMAS1998:

And either 9 or 10 isn't working. 2 out of the 4 flashers begind the translite arent working.

The resistor board for these 4 bulbs is behind the insert board. Follow the wire from the pair of non working bulbs to the flasher board to see which side of the board you need to test the resistor on.

#3752 8 days ago

Thank you sir. I really appreciate your help

#3753 6 days ago

The pop bumper stopped working. I played around with things and it seems like the switch tab simply bent away to the point of not making good contact. I bent it back. A few weeks later (on route) it's not popping again, per a friend. Guessing it's the switch again so I'm hoping that the thicker metal tab behind the switch tab can find a happy place and stay there this time.

#3754 5 days ago
Quoted from desertT1:

The pop bumper stopped working. I played around with things and it seems like the switch tab simply bent away to the point of not making good contact. I bent it back. A few weeks later (on route) it's not popping again, per a friend. Guessing it's the switch again so I'm hoping that the thicker metal tab behind the switch tab can find a happy place and stay there this time.

Read Vid's Guide to Rebuilding Pop Bumpers elsewhere on Pinside for a full rundown of how they work and how to get them dialed in properly. If the bumper has not been rebuilt, it is almost certainly worth the effort; you may want to just replace the switch stack outright if it has been bent up over the years. Al/so, a leaf adjuster tool is a little overpriced for what it is, but it's REALLY worth having.

#3755 2 days ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Left out by the factory. But it can be reconnected if you want to.

Look for the flasher board with the black/orange wire, check the resistance of the larger resistor closer to the blk/org wire.

The resistor board for these 4 bulbs is behind the insert board. Follow the wire from the pair of non working bulbs to the flasher board to see which side of the board you need to test the resistor on.

Good Afternoon @GRUMPY. Took care of most of my issues. The Flasher #10 issue was a cracked solder joint. My Flasher 3c turned out to be a bad resistor and the small warming resistor next to it. Both register as open when checking with my meter. I received my new boards the other day, and will be installing them this coming week. My question is this, I have never done this before. My soldering skills aren't too awful, and I think I should be able to get thru this. But having to do this on the underside of the playfield without an extra set of hands is intimidating for my first time, without an extra couple feet of wire to get it in a more confortable position. So, is there anything wrong with soldering leads with insulated quick connects to the board while on my bench, then just removing the wires one at a time from the old board, putting connectors on those wires, then installing the new board in its place and plugging it in?
Thanks,
Chris

#3756 2 days ago
Quoted from CTHOMAS1998:

So, is there anything wrong with soldering leads with insulated quick connects to the board while on my bench, then just removing the wires one at a time from the old board, putting connectors on those wires, then installing the new board in its place and plugging it in?

Quick answer is no, but most people will not understand why and think this is a hack of some sort. I think you should try soldering directly to the board first, you may find it's not as hard as you think it is. This is a good board to try on as the traces are larger and not so delicate. Adding some solder to the wire and the iron first will stop you from needing a third hand while connecting the wire. Also buy some solder flux to make the solder flow better.

#3757 2 days ago

Ok, I'll give it a try. The board is brand new, with just a tiny hole where the wires are going to go, so I think I should put a small glob of solder on those holes first.

#3758 2 days ago
Quoted from CTHOMAS1998:

Ok, I'll give it a try. The board is brand new, with just a tiny hole where the wires are going to go, so I think I should put a small glob of solder on those holes first.

Yep, then while it's hot insert the wire into the hole, then remove the soldering iron while holding the wire still until it cools down.

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