(Topic ID: 66172)

F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.

By Hellfire

10 years ago


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  • 5,561 posts
  • 466 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 12 days ago by chipleader
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19 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 5,561 posts in this topic. You are on page 75 of 112.
#3701 5 years ago

Ball popper issues again....
The ball popper coil won’t fire. The fuse tests fine and I replaced it anyway. Passes switch test, but not the coil test. All other switches associated with the ball popper’s transistor (Q44) test fine in the switch edge test, so I don’t think it’s a transistor issue.
Any ideas?

#3702 5 years ago

Possible driver transistor?

#3703 5 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

Ball popper issues again....
The ball popper coil won’t fire. The fuse tests fine and I replaced it anyway. Passes switch test, but not the coil test. All other switches associated with the ball popper’s transistor (Q44) test fine in the switch edge test, so I don’t think it’s a transistor issue.
Any ideas?

Use a jumper to very briefly ground the tab of the drive transistor and see if that fires the coil, if it does the transistor is most likely bad, if not you have a different problem. I don't remember if the ball popper is dedicated or if it's switched with a flasher via a snubber board, if it is shared and a flasher fires when the ball popper should then you need to start at the snubber board.

#3704 5 years ago

Here’s a twist...
I left F14 on for about 5 or 6 hours before noticing the problem. Usually I turn it on, play a few games and turn it off.
This morning I turned it on after being off all night and the ball popper worked as it should.

So, what does that indicate? Think I have a power supply issue maybe?
I ordered a bunch of the driver transistors just in case. I’ll install that this weekend.

#3705 5 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

Here’s a twist...
I left F14 on for about 5 or 6 hours before noticing the problem. Usually I turn it on, play a few games and turn it off.
This morning I turned it on after being off all night and the ball popper worked as it should.
So, what does that indicate? Think I have a power supply issue maybe?
I ordered a bunch of the driver transistors just in case. I’ll install that this weekend.

Could be a bad solder joint that fails when hot / warm or it could be a bad driver transistor that doesn't like to be warm anymore.

#3706 5 years ago
Quoted from bobukcat:

Could be a bad solder joint that fails when hot / warm or it could be a bad driver transistor that doesn't like to be warm anymore.

Or chip.

#3707 5 years ago

Cracked or poor solder joint's?

#3708 5 years ago

Having a problem with the bottom right flipper. It keeps getting stuck in the up position, while the upper right flipper works fine. The flipper will go to the down position most of the time when I hit the left flipper. Any ideas on what may be causing this or things to check for? Thanks for the assistance.

#3709 5 years ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

Having a problem with the bottom right flipper. It keeps getting stuck in the up position, while the upper right flipper works fine. The flipper will go to the down position most of the time when I hit the left flipper. Any ideas on what may be causing this or things to check for? Thanks for the assistance.

Sounds like a rebuild would be in order. The sleeve is likely quite dirty and the linkage is binding.

#3710 5 years ago

pinballjah you need to determine if its mechanical or electrical. To do this you need to get it stuck in the up position, then turn the pin off. If it stays up its mechanical, if it immediately falls its electrical.
My guess is its mechanical, you most likely have a dirty sleeve and bushing, also a bad coil stop will magnetize and cause it to stick where a little slap will release it.
I suggest the rebuild kit from PBL, upgrades the flippers and is a ton better then the old way. And don't forget bushings they don't include those in the kit.

#3711 5 years ago

Thanks for the feedback. I will check the flipper to see if it stays up when I turn off the game. It usually falls when a new ball starts and I don't touch the flipper buttons.

1 week later
#3712 5 years ago
Quoted from shirkle:

Here’s a twist...
I left F14 on for about 5 or 6 hours before noticing the problem. Usually I turn it on, play a few games and turn it off.
This morning I turned it on after being off all night and the ball popper worked as it should.
So, what does that indicate? Think I have a power supply issue maybe?
I ordered a bunch of the driver transistors just in case. I’ll install that this weekend.

As a follow-up, I have replaced the driver transistor and now the coil seems to work except in that one circumstance: once all 4 balls are in place for multiball, if I hit the bell popper it will not pop the ball up.
I had this issue a few weeks ago and it went away briefly when I put in new ROM chips. Now that it’s back, I have no idea what’s going on.
I’m kind of sick of the game at this point. I’ve been chasing this issue on and off for a couple of years.

#3713 5 years ago

WhatsApp Image 2019-03-05 at 17.14.27 (resized).jpegWhatsApp Image 2019-03-05 at 17.14.27 (resized).jpeg that's a beautiful translite!

#3714 5 years ago
Quoted from broher:

[quoted image] that's a beautiful translite!

Is it glass?

#3715 5 years ago
WhatsApp Image 2019-03-05 at 17.14.27(1) (resized).jpegWhatsApp Image 2019-03-05 at 17.14.27(1) (resized).jpeg
#3716 5 years ago
Quoted from broher:

[quoted image]

Where can we get one? How much?

#3717 5 years ago
Quoted from SkaterVet:

Where can we get one? How much?

I'll PM you.

#3718 5 years ago

You also selling on FB out of Argentina?

#3719 5 years ago

Just want to jump in and join the club! I just picked up my F-14. I owned one several years ago, should have never sold it. Anyway, I am looking for the 3 diverter wireform ramps. Mainly Part number 12-6712, the center wireform. I have found the other 2 on Ebay, but thought I would check here first, and buy them as a set. I would also consider buying the whole set of 5 wireform ramps if you have them.
Thanks!

#3720 5 years ago

Try Chris at pinball plating.

#3721 5 years ago

Just sent him an email. Thanks heni1977

#3722 5 years ago

Afternoon folks. Ok, on the backboard of my F-14, there are 6 flashers in a straight line, with red covers on them. What's the best way to get to those bulbs to change them? I lifted the playfield and felt behind it, and it feels like a circuit board or a cover back there. There has to be a trick to it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Chris

#3723 5 years ago
Quoted from CTHOMAS1998:

Afternoon folks. Ok, on the backboard of my F-14, there are 6 flashers in a straight line, with red covers on them. What's the best way to get to those bulbs to change them? I lifted the playfield and felt behind it, and it feels like a circuit board or a cover back there. There has to be a trick to it. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Chris

It is a circuit board if it is not a prototype. The best way to get it out is to raise the playfield to the full up right position and unplug the board and remove the two fasteners. One on each side. then take the board out. My machine has wing nuts. It looks like this.

WIN_20190307_18_48_23_Pro (resized).jpgWIN_20190307_18_48_23_Pro (resized).jpg
#3724 5 years ago
Quoted from Waderade812:

It is a circuit board if it is not a prototype. The best way to get it out is to raise the playfield to the full up right position and unplug the board and remove the two fasteners. One on each side. then take the board out. My machine has wing nuts. It looks like this.
[quoted image]

Thank you @Waderade812, I will go check it out and see if mine is like that. Looks like a PIA to get at!

#3725 5 years ago
Quoted from CTHOMAS1998:

Thank you Waderade812, I will go check it out and see if mine is like that. Looks like a PIA to get at!

Its not terrible, the wiring harness can be frustrating to manipulate around.

#3726 5 years ago

Ok, its like yours, with wingnuts. I'm going to tackle this Saturday, when I have daylight and time hahahahaha. When I lift the playfield all the way, there's no way I'll be able to do it. There's very little room between that board and the bottom of the cabinet when in that position. Looks like it'll be easier if I do it with the playfield at an angle. I'll need to most likely remove that little harness strap so I can pull the board away far enough to unplug it, and more importantly, be able to see when I plug it back in. Going to put LEDs back there so I don't have this issue again. (The center 2 are burned out) Going to need to use a mirror no matter what.

#3727 5 years ago

And again, thank you for your help!

#3728 5 years ago
Quoted from CTHOMAS1998:

Ok, its like yours, with wingnuts. I'm going to tackle this Saturday, when I have daylight and time hahahahaha. When I lift the playfield all the way, there's no way I'll be able to do it. There's very little room between that board and the bottom of the cabinet when in that position. Looks like it'll be easier if I do it with the playfield at an angle. I'll need to most likely remove that little harness strap so I can pull the board away far enough to unplug it, and more importantly, be able to see when I plug it back in. Going to put LEDs back there so I don't have this issue again. (The center 2 are burned out) Going to need to use a mirror no matter what.

If your going to use LEDs you should do a little research on warming resistor boards. Those are flasher bulbs on that board. The LEDs will be on constantly without a small modification to the resistor boards.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/led-flashers-in-f-14-tomcat

Grumpy's posts will give you the jist of it

#3729 5 years ago

Thanks for the tip!!!

#3730 5 years ago
Quoted from CTHOMAS1998:

Going to put LEDs back there so I don't have this issue again.

FYI: It will be super blinding if you go LED's back there; mine is a prototype with all white and with regular bulbs it is damn bright. The red will help it, but it will still be blinding. Double check it before you go all out!

#3731 5 years ago
Quoted from Dallas_Pin:

FYI: It will be super blinding if you go LED's back there; mine is a prototype with all white and with regular bulbs it is damn bright. The red will help it, but it will still be blinding. Double check it before you go all out!

Thanks @Dallas_Pin. That's what I'm reading, and I believe I'll stick with incandescent. Don't want to make it s miserable game.

#3732 5 years ago

Some folks have went with frosted back there to help with the brightness. I can not say what difference it makes as I have not seen it in person. Just fyi

#3733 5 years ago

Thanks @heni1977, that's an idea! Also, still looking for Part number 12-6712, the center wireform ramp for the diverter assembly. Haven't had any luck finding one yet.

#3734 5 years ago

I have the clear domes and I used the biggest red flashers that would fit back there. It’s blinding and beautiful. I can’t recommend it enough, but I think I’m in the minority in these matters. I have a video somewhere. I’ll try to find it and post a link.

#3735 5 years ago
Quoted from cletus:

I have the clear domes and I used the biggest red flashers that would fit back there. It’s blinding and beautiful. I can’t recommend it enough, but I think I’m in the minority in these matters. I have a video somewhere. I’ll try to find it and post a link.

Yes!! Light up my life!

#3736 5 years ago

Put your sunglasses on!

#3737 5 years ago
Quoted from cletus:

Put your sunglasses on!

Yikes. It's nice and bright, but has anyone had a seizure after playing? I wonder if an LED OCD board could slow that down?

#3738 5 years ago
Quoted from SkaterVet:

Yikes. It's nice and bright, but has anyone had a seizure after playing? I wonder if an LED OCD board could slow that down?

There are LED OCD boards for the matrix lamps and the GI. The flashers are supposed to be fast and furious.

#3739 5 years ago
Quoted from cletus:

There are LED OCD boards for the matrix lamps and the GI. The flashers are supposed to be fast and furious.

"OOOO Whooo. HERE THEY COME!" Love it!

#3740 5 years ago

That's pretty cool !!!

#3741 5 years ago
Quoted from cletus:

I have the clear domes and I used the biggest red flashers that would fit back there. It’s blinding and beautiful. I can’t recommend it enough, but I think I’m in the minority in these matters. I have a video somewhere. I’ll try to find it and post a link.

Same here. The brighter the better!

20190208_172737 (resized).jpg20190208_172737 (resized).jpg
#3742 5 years ago

Good Morning. Well, I tried to replace those two flashers, and actually pulling that board like you said Waderade812 was pretty easy. Unfortunately, the bulbs are good, and the traces look good. I visually checked all the resistor boards for broken leads as suggested by GRUMPY and saw no broken leads. Can anyone tell me which resistor board(s) is for lights 03C and 04C? I read thru a lot of the posts for these flashers being out and in looking at the matrix on the 1st page of the manual, well, like any of the other matrices, they leave me scratching my head. I will try to apply the technique of jumpering the two larger resistors once I find out which board, to determine whether it's a resistor problem or a diode problem. Now, one question. Should all those resistors have continuity? If so, that would be an easy check without having to jumper and then turn the machine back on. Lastly, if I ever do decide to go LED on the flashers, I understand that I must either snip off the smaller warming resistors, on the outsides of all resistor boards, leaving the two in the center intact, OR unsolder the ground wires from all the resistor boards. If I do the un-soldering, do I un-solder the ground wires from both sides of the board? I've noticed a couple boards have the ground wires soldered on both sides. Enough for this morning, I'm at work, and won't be able to try any suggestions until tonight, so please be patient with me.
Thanks,
Chris

#3743 5 years ago
Quoted from CTHOMAS1998:

Can anyone tell me which resistor board(s) is for lights 03C and 04C?

Does the 03c and 04c flash bulbs on the playfield work? They are tied together with the bulbs on the backboard. Are you using LEDs or standard bulbs in the backboard?

#3744 5 years ago
Quoted from CTHOMAS1998:

looking at the matrix on the 1st page of the manual, well, like any of the other matrices, they leave me scratching my head.

Lots of good info on this page.

solenoid table (resized).PNGsolenoid table (resized).PNG
#3745 5 years ago

Thank you very much GRUMPY for the Matrix diagrams. I did all the lamp tests yesterday, and it does appear that all the playfield lights are working I did not see anactual flasher test, but I'm going to go thru the diagnostics again because there has to be. Currently in the backboard, there are only incandescent bulbs. Was I correct in the thought about continuity in the resistors?

#3746 5 years ago

Also, I bought a couple of these from K's Arcade this morning in preparation

Screenshot_2019-03-11 Resistor Board, 5768-11096-00 (resized).pngScreenshot_2019-03-11 Resistor Board, 5768-11096-00 (resized).png
#3747 5 years ago

Ok, @grumpy , I looked at a copy of the manual and saw where the flashers on the playfield are that are tied together with the ones on the backboard and YES, those are working. I remember them working when we were playing yesterday.

#3748 5 years ago
Quoted from CTHOMAS1998:

and YES, those are working. I remember them working when we were playing yesterday.

Ok, then there is nothing wrong with the resistor boards. You either have a bad bulb in each socket, a bad lamp socket or bad wiring to those 2 bulbs.

Quoted from CTHOMAS1998:

I did not see anactual flasher test, but I'm going to go thru the diagnostics again because there has to be.

These are considered solenoids and not lamps, so run the solenoid test from the menu and you will see them work.

Quoted from CTHOMAS1998:

Was I correct in the thought about continuity in the resistors?

Yes if it had been a bad resistor board you could have tested each resistor for ohms. The larger resistor should be 5 ohms and the smaller warming resistor should read 330 ohms.

Quoted from CTHOMAS1998:

actually pulling that board like you said waderade812 was pretty easy. Unfortunately, the bulbs are good, and the traces look good.

Did you look for a cracked solder joint where the lamp socket connects to the PCB board. Also a lot of the time a bulb filament will look fine, but when power is applied the cracked filament opens up and the bulb doesn't work. Best to replace them with a know working bulb and retest.

#3749 5 years ago

Thank you sir. I have some work to do tonight, and I will repost in the morning how it comes out. I will do the solenoid test first, to verify the playfield flashers are actually working. Thanks again! Oh, I looked on your profile and saw you grew up in L.A. I grew up in the San Fernando Valley, in Reseda. I graduated HS in '73. Anyway, Talk to you in a bit. Thanks again!

#3750 5 years ago

Ok, well it really looks like I have my work cut out for me. In doing the somenoid test, it appears 03C is not working on the back board, or the playfield. Will check resisitor boards
04C is not working on the backboard, but IS working on the playfield. Will check for cracked solder joints, bad bulb socket or bad bulb on the back board pcb. Flasher 07C nothing anywhere, but I recall a Service Bulletin about that, will check that out. And either 9 or 10 isn't working. 2 out of the 4 flashers begind the translite arent working. Whew!

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