Yulee, FL
I’m looking to mod my F-14. Any cool recommendations?
Thanks in advance!
(Topic ID: 66172)
Linked Games
F-14 Tomcat
Williams, 1987
Topic Gallery
Quoted from SUPERBEE:Yep, if you do remove the mylar, be prepared to do some touch ups. Almost guaranteed you WILL lose some art. So its either get ready to do some arts and crafts and then clear , or put a playfield protector on it and play, or just play it the way it is. I used the freeze spray method on mine. It went pretty well but i did lose some art. Just go slow if you decide to do it. Just keep in mind that system 11s are known to lift art when removing mylar and once you start removing a section... there is no going back.
Yeah, I watched a few videos on it, and read a number of forum topics, I hear system 11s will be rough, but with all the bubbles this thing has I think it might be the right move. Plus, with that gash, after I pull it up I’ll spring for the playfield protector for smooth play I think.
Going to be nerve racking. Question, some places say take everything off the top of the playfield, others leave some stuff on. Any guidance there? Also, do you plug any of the holes for lighting or other places that it could drip through?
Quoted from Netsepp:Same Problem. Got an old one and the mylar was full of bubbles and some damages on the playfield.
Here is my way how I do it:
Think the only way to get a beautiful F14 is to remove the mylar (i used hot air - but the glue remains on the playfield).
Then remove all inserts (Watch they break easily - use hot air to soften glue).
Then clean the playfield with adhesive remover.
Wet grind all inserts and insert them plain on the playfield.
So you have a good ground playfield.
Fill in deep damages to got plain.
Now clearcoat the playfield to get a straight surface.
At this point (if you have a straight surface) you can begin to make the insert decals and correct the damaged parts of the playfield with overlays.
After that you have to clear cote again to save the overlays.
It may be that you have to do it several times.
if you use a strong varnish you do not have to make a protector - otherwise a protector comes on it
I'm working on it right now
best regards Mike[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That’s some amazing work! I wish there were a Hardtop for this, that would make this whole thing easier haha! I think my inserts looked good if I remember right. Traveling so I can’t check right now, but I believe it all was still level, which is good. Itching to LED this thing too.
What kills me too is ... no topper. And that sucker is expensive! Ha.
I have an extra motor from a Space Station. Can I rig something together with that? DIY F-14 topper? Ha
Quoted from TicTacSeth:What kills me too is ... no topper. And that sucker is expensive!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f-14-aftermarket-beacon-help-for-dummies#post-4289758
Oh man, this is perfect. Gonna go this route, thanks! I also started checking Alibaba, looks like I can get some rotating beacons in the 3 colors for cheap. Then just need to hook the rest in the same way on that tutorial I think.
Has anyone made scans of the Yagov and lamp indicator sticker that mount to the diverter ramp? Both of mine are badly faded and I'd like to reprint them on sticky vinyl.
Sana'a
I have new decals created with corel designer, vectorized with best resolution and colors.
If interessted just mail me.
Ok, so I'm teri g to get everything working on this F14 before cleaning it up. I've been successful except for 2 flash lamps. In the pic, this is the big center insert, the top lamp works, the other two do not. According to the manual, it appears these are all on the same transistor? The lower 2 have a different supply wire, but they all appear to connect to the resistor board next to this lamp cluster.
I'm a bit confused how this is supposed to.work.
Lamps are known working. I dont see any obvious broken wires or cold solder.
Thx.
20181006_133257 (resized).jpg20181006_133650 (resized).jpg
EDIT: Resolved. I noticed a broken trace and a very sketchy resistor on the left half of the resistor board. Once I realized these resistor boards are two separate halves, I swapped this board with one that only needed a single good working side. Flashers fixed!
I encountered an odd situation last night when fixing my F14 that resides at my sister's house (I'm out of space). None of the ejects, diverters or the ball popper would fire in game or in test. Having seen this before I knew that the 2.5 amp slow-blow fuse was going to be blown and it was. I expected a shorted drive transistor but they all tested fine so I put another fuse in it and it popped immediately when I powered the game back on though I didn't hear anything firing. I decided to jumper the fuse very quickly to see what was locked on and burning the fuse but I got nothing, no sparks, no coil or flasher stuck on, nothing. I thought maybe it blew the 4 amp on the other side of the rectifier but it was fine. So I put another fuse back in it and everything worked fine, played five or six games with multiball and the kickback firing and everything continued to work just fine. I have no idea what was blowing that fuse but apparently a little extra current through whatever it was fixed it.
München
Quoted from bobukcat:I encountered an odd situation last night when fixing my F14 that resides at my sister's house (I'm out of space). None of the ejects, diverters or the ball popper would fire in game or in test. Having seen this before I knew that the 2.5 amp slow-blow fuse was going to be blown and it was. I expected a shorted drive transistor but they all tested fine so I put another fuse in it and it popped immediately when I powered the game back on though I didn't hear anything firing. I decided to jumper the fuse very quickly to see what was locked on and burning the fuse but I got nothing, no sparks, no coil or flasher stuck on, nothing. I thought maybe it blew the 4 amp on the other side of the rectifier but it was fine. So I put another fuse back in it and everything worked fine, played five or six games with multiball and the kickback firing and everything continued to work just fine. I have no idea what was blowing that fuse but apparently a little extra current through whatever it was fixed it.
did you use the exact same fuses each time? I had a similar effect with ceramic fuses, but since I put in a regular fuse everything is fine
Quoted from BigLebowski:did you use the exact same fuses each time? I had a similar effect with ceramic fuses, but since I put in a regular fuse everything is fine
Yep, glass slo-blos all from the same package.
1 week later
White/black is preference; White is bouncier. Generally speaking older machines have white rubber nowadays, but I know I've played black rubber F14s back in the day.
Size wise I believe it's 2/.5" off top of my head - but the manual on IPDB would have it listed officially.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f-14-switch-matrix-help
I have this topic going separately, but basically a weird switch matrix issue I'm working through.
Only rows 6-8 work correctly, rows 1-5 register the switch in row 6. More details in the other thread.
Resolved. Socketed and replaced U30 and U39. Switches work correctly again.
Quoted from topkat:Trying to make sure this screw ( near red tape) didn’t goto something under that I misplaced? I am thinking there was a rubber post on it and it just was spacer. All the other holes line up for posts or rail spots
[quoted image]
Pretty sure those screws hold down the clear plastic that covers the tunnel up
Quoted from MadPole:Installed Pinstadium lights.
This pin was soooo dark it was difficult to play... not anymore.
[quoted image]
All I did to solve the dark playfield problem was install a small clamp light above off to the side of playfield glass so it doesn’t reflect off glass with a 40 watt bulb and problem solved.
Does anyone have a used right sling plastic without broken corners? It is the last piece I need in order to finish my F-14 shop job 
Thanks!
could any of you fine f-14 owners let me know what the fuse value is for the in-line fuse box? cant find it anywhere in the manual or im just dumb.
was thinking its probably an 8amp slo blo but dont really want to blow stuff up.
got a game that was missing it so want to make sure i dont wreck stuff on it.
Quoted from InfiniteLives:could any of you fine f-14 owners let me know what the fuse value is for the in-line fuse box? cant find it anywhere in the manual or im just dumb.
was thinking its probably an 8amp slo blo but dont really want to blow stuff up.
got a game that was missing it so want to make sure i dont wreck stuff on it.
I'm pretty sure it is an 8 amp slo blow. I can check when I get home. To confirm this is the one that is in the metal box in the cabinet right? Thanks!
Quoted from darcangeloel:I'm pretty sure it is an 8 amp slo blow. I can check when I get home. To confirm this is the one that is in the metal box in the cabinet right? Thanks!
Yeah, the one in the metal box where the power comes in next to the service outlet
thank you!
Quoted from InfiniteLives:Yeah, the one in the metal box where the power comes in next to the service outlet
thank you!
You got it! I'll check when I get home (A few hours from now)
Quoted from vid1900:You can replace that 8amp fuse with a 4 amp
Whenever I look at Dr Watt to see what the peak draw is on a pin, it's usually under 2 amps.
Thanks vid! good to know
Newmarket, ON
Quoted from darcangeloel:Mine is an 8. Sorry for the hold up
Quoted from vid1900:You can replace that 8amp fuse with a 4 amp
Never hurts to under fuse.... Shit never blows up that way !!
Hey all, I need some help identifying where a few wires go on my F-14. The two targets in front of the middle sections don’t work, and looking under the playfield I have a disconnected green/yellow wire on the right target, which looks like it may go to the green/yellow leaving the same switch, so just want to confirm that. Then on the left switch, a loose black wire that likely bridges the two targets, just need to see where it attaches to the right. Super poor soldering job on all of it by the previous owner I can see. (First pic below)
Next (second pic) the top red TOM targets, the O and the M targets don’t register. Once again, a disconnected wire. This one is a yellow. It looks like the O side is still attached, so need to see where to connect on the T switch.
Can anyone get a pic from theirs for me on these 3 wires?
280438FA-9D29-427A-9433-C84099DE677A (resized).jpeg34FE49FA-DB4B-4012-8E4F-CCD4D2AE8A17 (resized).jpegQuoted from TicTacSeth:I have a disconnected green/yellow wire on the right target, which looks like it may go to the green/yellow leaving the same switch, so just want to confirm that. Then on the left switch, a loose black wire that likely bridges the two targets, just need to see where it attaches to the right.
Green/yellow connects to the green/yellow wire.
Black wire connects to the green/yellow wire also.
Quoted from TicTacSeth:TOM targets, the O and the M targets don’t register. Once again, a disconnected wire. This one is a yellow. It looks like the O side is still attached, so need to see where to connect on the T switch.
Yellow wire connects to the green/violet wire on the T target.
Quoted from TicTacSeth:Can anyone get a pic from theirs for me on these 3 wires?
All the wiring pics are on the Pinside Shopout Gallery
https://pinside.com/pinball/machine/f-14-tomcat/gallery/shopout
Quoted from vid1900:You can replace that 8amp fuse with a 4 amp
Whenever I look at Dr Watt to see what the peak draw is on a pin, it's usually under 2 amps.
Does that mean in AU we could go as low as 2 amp perhaps? We start with a 4 amp because we're on 240v, Watts/Volts = Amps. Might pop a meter on on of my system 11s...
Quoted from ajfclark:Does that mean in AU we could go as low as 2 amp perhaps? We start with a 4 amp because we're on 240v, Watts/Volts = Amps. Might pop a meter on on of my system 11s...
Yes.
Smaller fuses will blow faster, so generally safer.
You can take the fuse out, set your meter to Amps, put it across the fuse terminals then turn on logging mode.
Or put your Kill-A-Watt on peak mode.
Play rounds of multiball and see what your peak draw is.
Quoted from TicTacSeth:Hey all, I need some help identifying where a few wires go on my F-14. The two targets in front of the middle sections don’t work, and looking under the playfield I have a disconnected green/yellow wire on the right target, which looks like it may go to the green/yellow leaving the same switch, so just want to confirm that. Then on the left switch, a loose black wire that likely bridges the two targets, just need to see where it attaches to the right. Super poor soldering job on all of it by the previous owner I can see. (First pic below)
Next (second pic) the top red TOM targets, the O and the M targets don’t register. Once again, a disconnected wire. This one is a yellow. It looks like the O side is still attached, so need to see where to connect on the T switch.
Can anyone get a pic from theirs for me on these 3 wires?[quoted image][quoted image]
Here's how mine look:
http://raster-burn.net/wordpress/wp-content/gallery/2018-q4-f-14-new/DSC_0150.JPG
Okay so ive been working on an f14 I got that was completely dead.
Have everything working in terms of coils/lights/flasher but the two diverters for the ball locks.
These were melted when I got the game so I ordered new ones. Installed them today and they both melted while I was testing it...
What do I need to look at ?
Quoted from InfiniteLives:These were melted when I got the game so I ordered new ones. Installed them today and they both melted while I was testing it...
What do I need to look at ?
Did they instantly lock on the moment you turned the game on?
Quoted from vid1900:Did they instantly lock on the moment you turned the game on?
not that i know of; so i used my hands to light the locks and then locked them and they each worked (but they made a pretty loud buzzing noise when the diverter was opened, then once the ball went passed to its locked position they turned off. I wired them the same as the previous coils i took out so maybe I copied a mistake on which side goes to the banded side of the diode? or maybe the pre-transistor is bad? I looked at the photos from that rebuild thread you linked a few posts back and they appeared wired the same way I wired mine. (i looked it over prior to soldering on the wires to double check)
i currently do not have a working display but working on everything else in the meantime so I cant really go into test for coil tests at the moment.
edit: after looking at photos I put the wires that are blue/orange (i think its orange but im color blind) on the banded side of the diode on each coil. This looks to be the same as the shop out photos as well as what was previously installed. I put the coil specific wires (Blue/Black and Blue/Green) on the non-banded side of the diode. Does this sound correct?
If you get the power and ground the wrong way around, all the power goes through the diode and the fuses blows. It doesn't melt the coil.
Okay, so I'm a dumbass. The coils didn't melt like the pervious one's... The diverter plastic cover was missing screws and was blocking the diverter coil plungers from being able to push into the coil and activate. Haha, crisis averted and only cost me my pride and dignity 
Anyone source the belts for the topper beacons from local places verse buying online? I just had to take apart and repair my beacon motor and im missing the belts. Would a place like Ace hardware or something similar carry something that would work? Couldnt find the dimensions in the manual but a third party site lists their replacements as 7 x 1/4 x 1/4 each.
EDIT: looks like my NAPA has the #252 o-rings in stock that was referenced earlier in this thread, i will give it a shot and report back.
I’m having some issues. Mine does one of these three things upon boot-up:
1. Loud beep and displays IRQ FAILURE.
2. Just plays garbage or random sounds.
3. Boots, but when playing it automatically locks the first two balls when launched, and the third ball is perpetually locked if I capture it.
Any ideas?
Quoted from InfiniteLives:Anyone source the belts for the topper beacons from local places verse buying online? I just had to take apart and repair my beacon motor and im missing the belts. Would a place like Ace hardware or something similar carry something that would work? Couldnt find the dimensions in the manual but a third party site lists their replacements as 7 x 1/4 x 1/4 each.
https://littleshopofgames.com/shop/parts-by-game/parts-by-game-bally-williams/parts-by-game-bally-williams-f14-tomcat/f14-tomcat-beacon-drive-belt-20-9543/
EDIT: looks like my NAPA has the #252 o-rings in stock that was referenced earlier in this thread, i will give it a shot and report back.
John Deere will have them to but at a higher cost.
Quoted from shirkle:I’m having some issues. Mine does one of these three things upon boot-up:
1. Loud beep and displays IRQ FAILURE.
2. Just plays garbage or random sounds.
3. Boots, but when playing it automatically locks the first two balls when launched, and the third ball is perpetually locked if I capture it.Any ideas?
Send this description to Clive at Coin-Op Cauldron and he'll tell you which boards to send him.
3 weeks later
Quoted from shirkle:I’m having some issues. Mine does one of these three things upon boot-up:
1. Loud beep and displays IRQ FAILURE.
2. Just plays garbage or random sounds.
3. Boots, but when playing it automatically locks the first two balls when launched, and the third ball is perpetually locked if I capture it.
Any ideas?
As a follow up to my previous post...
No progress yet. However, I did notice that the 2.5a slow blow fuse mounted in the back of blows upon powering on the machine.
Any ideas on that one?
Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
Reply
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!
Donate to PinsideGreat to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
