Welcome back GRUMPY! I was starting to worry something happened to you. 
(Topic ID: 66172)
Linked Games
F-14 Tomcat
Williams, 1987
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Quoted from StylesBitchly:I was starting to worry
No worries, I'm just crazy busy in the summer months.
Quoted from topkat:does anyone know a link to get all the insert decals
Upper Saint Clair, PA
Quoted from GRUMPY:These problems are related to a bad U-50 chip.
@Grumpy Sir - you are the man. I'm sure you already knew that - but I wanted to give a major thanks. Before I posted yesterday I was at a point of trying to learn how to test the various chips - last night I had U50 pulled, the pre-drive transistor replaced, coils replaced, and I was up and running in just about an hour.
Thank you again for all the help!
Alright - now that it's flipping again, I've noticed one teeny little issue that I wonder if anyone has experience with... Is there an easy way to adjust the center ball kickers? My right one flings right around the center horseshoe no problem, but the left one dings the post every single time. Is there a screw or something I'm not seeing - or is it something you just need to bend (and any tips to get that bend right?)
Thanks again!
Quoted from drjbeyer:Hello all, looking for a source for switch assemblies for the spinners at the top of the playfield. I can't seem to locate them anywhere. Part #'s SW-1A-168. Thanks for any help.
Quoted from aerobert:I believe that part is obsolete and replaced by this one which you can get anywhere: http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-11664
EDIT: Noticed it was out of stock, but apparantly you can also use this one from Gottlieb as replacement. http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=B-18807
"Leaf switch assembly with bend/hook on end for use with spinner targets and roll-under wireform gates on many Gottlieb games. Can be used on other makes/models as well. Measures approx. 3-1/2 inches overall length. 2 solder lugs. "
Question:
Going back to these posts on page 43 of this thread concerning the spinner and upper gate switches, I have ordered the Gottlieb ones mentioned in the post, however, they do not have the 3rd lug/leaf and fish paper for proper connection of the diode on the switch.
Do I need to add the 3rd lug and leaf with paper from the old switches so the diode is wired, or is it OK to install as is, and without the diode?
Quoted from johnnycruzr:Question:
Going back to these posts on page 43 of this thread concerning the spinner and upper gate switches, I have ordered the Gottlieb ones mentioned in the post, however, they do not have the 3rd lug/leaf and fish paper for proper connection of the diode on the switch.
Do I need to add the 3rd lug and leaf with paper from the old switches so the diode is wired, or is it OK to install as is, and without the diode?
Well, answered my question.
Got it all put back together without diodes, went into switch test, and nothing blew up!
I'm now about 30 games in, and still working perfect!
Quoted from johnnycruzr:Well, answered my question.
Got it all put back together without diodes, went into switch test, and nothing blew up!
I'm now about 30 games in, and still working perfect!
I installed the original ones before they ran out. All three of mine (spinner and both roll under switches) have the diode.
Quoted from johnnycruzr:Well, answered my question.
Got it all put back together without diodes, went into switch test, and nothing blew up!
I'm now about 30 games in, and still working perfect!
Nothing will blow up, but when you have a switch stuck closed or a shorted diode you will then have random score problems every time the spinner switch
closes.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Nothing will blow up, but when you have a switch stuck closed or a shorted diode you will then have random score problems every time the spinner switch
closes.
Sounds like I need to go back in and modify the new switch stacks with parts off the old switches.....thanks Grumpy!
You don't have to redo the switch stack. Just remove the correct wire from the switch and solder the diode so that its real close to the switch. Then solder the wire real close to the diode. Then slide a piece of clear tubing over the wire and diode.
MAGINON Action Camera
Action Camera with 4K Video Resolution
Got mine off eBay for $65.00 free shipping!
http://www.maginon.com/website/us/produktinfo-sued/aktion-ac-777.html
Here is my 1st video using it..
Yes I know, colors are off and too much blooming of lights, but this was camera on 1080p 60FPS and default settings in a dim room. More light helps, but I like the blooming. Any suggestions appreciated!
Video was cut towards the end to shorten. It's not the pin malfunctioning. 
Cut @ 1:53
You said a bad word! 
∆∆∆∆
Quoted from GRUMPY:You said a bad word! ∆∆∆∆
That's nothing compared to when I'm not on video! 
I was so mad I took my camera and when upstairs!! 
Hi guys, I posted over the weekend in a separate thread but realized it'd probably get better response here. So I deleted the other post that basically said:
Hi all. Working on my F-14 tomcat. Had some pretty hacked up wiring. In this case, we weren't getting the 28vac to the upper relay board that wires directly to the beacon motor and lights. The white/blue wires had been chopped under the play field (at 6J5 I think) at some point in time. :/
So, the topper stuff isn't working. The 3rd player display isn't working either, but I haven't gotten to trouble shoot much beyond re-seating the connectors which didn't help.
The puzzle right now is, after a few hours tracing wires and testing continuity, we finally got our 28vac to the top relay/snubber board via the white/blue wires. Not sure if the issue is the relay board itself or the red/brown wires, but looking for advice on testing and further troubleshooting.
In SOLENOID TEST, option 16, I don't get anything, even a clicking of the relay/snubber board-- which I was expecting to hear based on other reading. The motor is working fine when directly wired to 28vac, I have not seen the lights even flicker yet, but all three (1683's) test good on an ohm meter and appear visually good. I already have a backup motor on hand, too, thinking that might have been the issue, but as mentioned, both motors spin fine when 28vac power is directly applied.
Any advice, confirmations or suggestions would be greatly appreciated for the motor/beacons or that 3rd player display. 
So progress on my F-14 is moving very slowly, frankly because I have other things than pinball on my mind during the summer months. I did send two of my bad MPU's off to Coin-Op Cauldron for repair. There's a ten week lead time for that, so maybe I'll try to get my remaining almost-working MPU operational before then. There's also the matter of the display. Coin-op Cauldron doesn't fix displays, and of course my F-14 is an early model, which means it has the more expensive and scarce version of the display.
My question for the group is, has anyone purchased the early model F-14 display from Xpin (https://xpinpinball.com/product/xp-wms11415-f/) and if so, are you happy with it? Thinking of ordering one. My other option is to order the later display and move the connectors to the other side. Cheaper, but it'll void the warranty and I really don't like soldering on a brand new board.
Quoted from GoneFishinLvMsg:My other option is to order the later display and move the connectors to the other side. Cheaper, but it'll void the warranty and I really don't like soldering on a brand new board.
You lost me here, why would you have to move any connectors?
Quoted from GRUMPY:You lost me here, why would you have to move any connectors?
LEDs are farther back than the displays on the original board, which creates a big gap between them and the speaker panel. If you move the connectors and a capacitor to the other side you can bring the board closer.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/early-model-f-14-display-question
However, I was unable to find an example of where someone had successfully done this. I'd rather just get the xpin board.
Quoted from Murph74:The 3rd player display isn't working either, but I haven't gotten to trouble shoot much beyond re-seating the connectors which didn't help.
Does display #1, #2 and #4 work 100% correct. If so the display glass is bad and needs to be replaced.
Quoted from Murph74:The puzzle right now is, after a few hours tracing wires and testing continuity, we finally got our 28vac to the top relay/snubber board via the white/blue wires. Not sure if the issue is the relay board itself or the red/brown wires, but looking for advice on testing and further troubleshooting.
With the game on check the red wire for 30 volts dc. If this is good then take a jumper wire connected to the ground braid and touch the other end to the brown wire, this will turn on the the relay. The motor should turn and the 3 lights should light. A pic of your wiring in the back box maybe helpful too. After you confirm that the relay works like this I will help you troubleshoot the CPU solenoid test issue.
Quoted from GoneFishinLvMsg:LEDs are farther back than the displays on the original board, which creates a big gap between them and the speaker panel. If you move the connectors and a capacitor to the other side you can bring the board closer.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/early-model-f-14-display-question
I have an example of both style of boards in my parts, as I was going to change mine to an early version to get the bottom lamps to light the speaker panel. Neither factory board has the connectors reversed. There are size differences in both height and width from early to late. So the holes in the panel are different size too and the mounting brackets. The factory mounting brackets hold the display off of the panel so the connectors don't touch. He just didn't have the correct brackets to convert it to the later style. If you want to run the later version you need to make a new panel wood with the correct size opening and use the later brackets.
Well, either way I'd prefer the xpin board for $130 more than all that screwing around. Just wish they'd answer their phone or return my message. It says they have the orange displays in stock, but I want to see if I can special order blue. The guy on the other thread said they could.
Quoted from GoneFishinLvMsg:Well, either way I'd prefer the xpin board for $130 more than all that screwing around. Just wish they'd answer their phone or return my message. It says they have the orange displays in stock, but I want to see if I can special order blue. The guy on the other thread said they could.
See my post 2659 here...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/f14-tomcat-owners-club-fans-also-welcome/page/54
Bump for any insight/assistance on this?
Quoted from statictrance:Is there an easy way to adjust the center ball kickers? My right one flings right around the center horseshoe no problem, but the left one dings the post every single time. Is there a screw or something I'm not seeing - or is it something you just need to bend
OK, thank you! Still waiting for a reply from them. I really think the display would look great in blue.
Edit: Got an email back from Brett at 21 Electronics. They seem like a pretty good outfit, and yes they can do a custom display in blue!
Quoted from GoneFishinLvMsg:They seem like a pretty good outfit, and yes they can do a custom display in blue!
Cool!
Quoted from GoneFishinLvMsg:They seem like a pretty good outfit, and yes they can do a custom display in blue!
Keep us informed, I might be in on this. I think blue would look really cool!
Sana'a
Quoted from statictrance:Alright - now that it's flipping again, I've noticed one teeny little issue that I wonder if anyone has experience with... Is there an easy way to adjust the center ball kickers? My right one flings right around the center horseshoe no problem, but the left one dings the post every single time. Is there a screw or something I'm not seeing - or is it something you just need to bend (and any tips to get that bend right?)
Thanks again!
First, check for play in the system.
Is the pivot loose?
Is the sleeve worn?
Was it always like this since the day you bought it, or did it just happen?
Did it happen after a repair, or playfield swap?
Quoted from GRUMPY:Does display #1, #2 and #4 work 100% correct. If so the display glass is bad and needs to be replaced.
With the game on check the red wire for 30 volts dc. If this is good then take a jumper wire connected to the ground braid and touch the other end to the brown wire, this will turn on the the relay. The motor should turn and the 3 lights should light. A pic of your wiring in the back box maybe helpful too. After you confirm that the relay works like this I will help you troubleshoot the CPU solenoid test issue.
Professor Grumpy strikes again! My beacons work! I tried grounding the brown at the relay board, nothing. My DMM picked up no voltage there either between brown and red. Started moving back up the chain, and found a bad connection at the 4 pin molex just to the right of the relay board. I was able to clip the wires and bypass the connector by hardwiring the brown and red wires (don't have molex tools/parts on hand) and it was a hallelujah moment!
Now on the display, three appears dead. 1, 2 & 4 appear fully functional. It's the old style board with the twist light sockets at the bottom. Is there any reason or way to confirm the display is toast? If it is, I'll likely go with a modem replacement for the whole board if I can find a reasonable mounting solution.
Also, anyone have any input on the laminated insert decals? I have quite a bit of print missing on my inserts, but am strangely skeptical that a stick-on solution is a good idea. 
Thanks so much for your response and help, Grumpy!
IMG_20180815_153022 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Murph74:Is there any reason or way to confirm the display is toast?
If you put the game in display test and lock it on the the number "8" so that all segments and all digits are lit. Then use a volt meter set to dc volts and the black lead stuck under the ground braid, use the red lead and check each pin on display 4 glass and compare to each pin of display 3 glass. If they read @ the same then you will be certain that the glass has out gassed.
Hey gang- I'm trying to replace some of the resistors on the flasher boards in our mice-infested Tomcat. Can't seem to figure out from pics what version to pick up. The Marco Specialties F-14 collection has two different resistors listed
330 ohms 7 watts
5 ohm, 10 watt
It looks like the 'new production replacement boards' has 10w- can anyone confirm the 5 ohms, 10 watt version is the right one?
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/B-11263
I'm also looking for the beacon toppers which I'm assuming is pretty much an impossible find.... mice must have got those too.
What is the correct color for the beacons? I think its Red, Clear, Blue but some people think instead of clear it should be yellow and other have told me instead of clear it should be white. I bought clear as I already had red and blue.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/R10W5
These will be the ones you need. If you are going with leds you only need to put in the two middle ones. I replaced all of mine and did just the two in the middle.
Quoted from mrs_mezelmods:330 ohms 7 watts
Use these for the outside pair. Leave these off if using led flashers.
Quoted from mrs_mezelmods:5 ohm, 10 watt
Use these for the inside pair.
Quoted from mrs_mezelmods:'m also looking for the beacon toppers which I'm assuming is pretty much an impossible find.... mice must have got those too.
Quoted from darcangeloel:What is the correct color for the beacons? I think its Red, Clear, Blue but some people think instead of clear it should be yellow and other have told me instead of clear it should be white. I bought clear as I already had red and blue.
In AMERICA its red, white and blue!
Quoted from GRUMPY:Use these for the outside pair. Leave these off if using led flashers.
Use these for the inside pair.
I thank you for the help! On both items!
Quoted from GRUMPY:Mine is a bit more golden then yellow, but I want a new white one!
In Australia we have a plastic polish for car headlights that removes the yellowing (eg https://www.meguiars.com.au/glass-clear-plastic-and-exterior-trim/plastx/). Could something similar work on the dome?
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