(Topic ID: 66172)

F14 Tomcat Owners Club Fans Also Welcome.


By Hellfire

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by locksmith
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There are 4188 posts in this topic. You are on page 68 of 84.
#3351 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

How did you test these switches?

Using the Switch Level test, I rolled the balls over the switches in the trough. All the switches registered.

Quoted from GRUMPY:

Take a pic of the cabinet switch showing the wires.

sw1 (resized).JPG

sw2 (resized).JPG

#3352 1 year ago
Quoted from apc7654:

All the switches registered.

With the balls removed, does any switches show in switch test?

#3353 1 year ago

GRUMPY:

Quoted from GRUMPY:

With the balls removed, does any switches show in switch test?

No,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, However, I found the problem. I thought all the trough switches were registering, however, since you asked this question, I went back and noticed that Switch 14 (left ball trough) was not registering. Once I adjusted the switch, it went right into game mode, ejected the ball, and all is good. Thank you!

I found the lamp column problem,,, YEL-RED wire pulled out of the molex connector. I ordered a pin remover, and I can call that problem fixed.

The big question which is really puzzling me is the lower right flipper not firing. I don't understand why it fires when I jumper it, and both coils fire when the button is pressed. Do you know what these connectors are referring to ; P/O 8J & P3 (pin 34) and P/O 7P1 & J1(pin16) . I'm having a hard time with this nomenclature and can't find where they are located. Could there be a bad connection at these points.

#3354 1 year ago

Hey crew. I'mm hoping someone can help me with an overheating issue with a flipper coil. I've noticed since I got this game the bottom right flipper gets much hotter than the other flipper coils in the game. I've adjusted the EOS switches properly, replaced the switches, re-adjusted, etc. The right top flipper coil does not get hot, and I assume that that hold coil functions off of the same EOS switch since the 11722's don't have their own EOS switch.
For those who happened to catch another post I made a few days back, this bottom right flipper coil smoked and had a major melt down. I had noticed a few days prior as I was replacing the sleeves that this particular coil had a cracked case inside, so when it fried itself I figured it was probably faulty from the beginning.
So two days ago, I got my pieces parts... I actually rebuild all four flippers complete with new coils/diodes and re-adjusted the EOS switches. My kids were playing the machine this evening for about 30 minutes, and about 15 minutes after they were done I pulled up the playfield to check on the flipper work. Again the bottom right coil was really much warmer than the other 3, very noticable and this is even after 15-20 min of cool down time.

What could be going on here? I tripple checked the EOS switch again with a meter at the switch itself and I've got good contact at EOS. The main power switch disengages as it should when manually manuvering the flipper.

Any help would be super.

#3355 1 year ago
Quoted from apc7654:

Lower right flipper does not fire when button is pushed

When you add the jumper like you did before and start a game. Without pushing the flipper button, if you lift the lower right flipper up does it stay up?

#3356 1 year ago
Quoted from miatawnt2b:

and I assume that that hold coil functions off of the same EOS switch since the 11722's don't have their own EOS switch.

All flippers need to have there own EOS switch or they will melt. The upper flippers don't have any switch matrix switches.
What does each winding measure in ohms on the lower right coil?

#3357 1 year ago

grumpy
6.2 on main coil, 176 on hold coil

#3358 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

When you add the jumper like you did before and start a game. Without pushing the flipper button, if you lift the lower right flipper up does it stay up?

First I want to apologize for providing the wrong picture of the previous jumper configuration along with the results. What I actually jumped is shown below (I must have had a senior moment). I basically bypassed all the intermediate connections, and when I did, both flippers coils fired. This indicates to me that there is a break in the wire (connectors) between the coil and the switch for the BLU-VIO wire.

I guess I have to start tracing the wire to see where these connections are. Does somehow this BLU-VIO wire from the coil go thru the CPU board before it goes back to the switch on the cabinet?

flipper jumper 2 (resized).jpg

#3359 1 year ago

Thanks for the tip and the link. Unfortunately, they are sold out. Marco is also sold out.

#3360 1 year ago
Quoted from apc7654:

First I want to apologize for providing the wrong picture of the previous jumper configuration along with the results.

This makes a lot more sense now.

Quoted from apc7654:Does somehow this BLU-VIO wire from the coil go thru the CPU board before it goes back to the switch on the cabinet?

I think it comes from the flipper power supply to the p/f coil then back to the back box on the same harness but then U turns down into the cabinet to the switch and then returns to the backbox to the cpu flipper relay and then to ground. I can check later on mine if you like.

#3361 1 year ago
Quoted from miatawnt2b:

6.2 on main coil, 176 on hold coil

Nothing wrong there.

#3362 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

Nothing wrong there.

Yea, It's a new coil. Something has to be causing it to get hot though.

#3363 1 year ago
Quoted from GRUMPY:

I think it comes from the flipper power supply to the p/f coil then back to the back box on the same harness but then U turns down into the cabinet to the switch and then returns to the backbox to the cpu flipper relay and then to ground. I can check later on mine if you like.

Grumpy, thank you, but you don't need to check. I found the problem, a bad solder joint on the coil. I traced the wire, and couldn't see anything suspicious, other than a nasty looking solder job on the coil for the BLU-VIO wire. I wouldn't have expected it to be a problem, but I couldn't find anything else. A good lessons learned!

#3364 1 year ago

Figured it out. The linkage had a bunch of slop because I didn't completely tighten it. So moving the flipper by hand led me to believe the eos switches we're properly adjusted. They were, but when the solenoid did the work they would remain closed. Tighten everything up properly and it's golden.

-J

#3365 1 year ago
Quoted from miatawnt2b:

Figured it out. The linkage had a bunch of slop because I didn't completely tighten it. So moving the flipper by hand led me to believe the eos switches we're properly adjusted. They were, but when the solenoid did the work they would remain closed. Tighten everything up properly and it's golden.
-J

Bingo!
I have seen this mentioned before on pinside. Always adjust using the solenoid plunger, not the flipper.
Cheers!

#3366 1 year ago

Noticed another problem popped up. Flasher #6C is not working. Knocker #6A does work. So driver transistor Q23 is good. Checked to see if Solenoid is energized (C side) during #6C flasher, and it does. Checked the diode on the diode board, and they are good. LED flashers are installed and ground wires on the resistor boards are disconnected.

During the "coil test", and locked on the 6C flasher, I wiggled the connector between the playfield and the cabinet to check for a loose connection/pin, and flasher did not come on.

Any idea where I should check next?

#3367 1 year ago

anyone know the RPM of the beacon motor? It's a 1-1 drive, so you can just count the revolutions of the center beacon for 10 seconds and multiply by 6.
Thanks!
-J

2 weeks later
#3368 1 year ago

The special solenoids (left & right slings, upper and lower diverters, and the jet bumper) are not working, not even in coil test mode. In switch edge test, neither of the switches register. I jumpered the row and column pins on the CPU board for the switches, and they register. All the fuses test good, in the backbox and the two on the playfield. I can't believe that all of a sudden there is a wiring problem, but who knows. Any suggest on where to check?

#3369 1 year ago
Quoted from apc7654:

The special solenoids (left & right slings, upper and lower diverters, and the jet bumper) are not working, not even in coil test mode.

Check if you have voltage at the coils with your meter.

Follow the voltage wire daisy chain back until you find where you have lost it

Look if there have been any under playfield fuses added

#3370 1 year ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Check if you have voltage at the coils with your meter.
Follow the voltage wire daisy chain back until you find where you have lost it

I followed the voltage, I mean "no voltage", all the way back to the power supply. Pins 4 & 5 at 3J3 had no voltage. Apparently, the F4 fuse had blown (I had checked it w/o taking it out of its holder, checked good), a straight 2 AMP fuse had been installed, and been that way for 20 years. I installed a 4 AMP SB fuse, and it's back up and running.

Thanks vid for your help !!

#3371 1 year ago

Now go through and check all fuses for correct type and size. I found two that were oversized in mine!

#3372 1 year ago

Just pulled this out of the boneyard. I was a wrench-turner on Navy airplanes, so this was a must-have for me.

This Tomcat likely hasn't flown in several years. The MPU is blown, so I'm going to try swapping it with a modded spare System 11(no number) one that I have. Assuming it boots up after that it'll need a good cleaning and some cabinet work. I might look at a playfield swap down the road if I like it enough. The one in it isn't bad, but there is some insert lifting and lots of mylar.

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#3373 1 year ago
Quoted from GoneFishinLvMsg:

Just pulled this out of the boneyard. I was a wrench-turner on Navy airplanes, so this was a must-have for me.
This Tomcat likely hasn't flown in several years. The MPU is blown, so I'm going to try swapping it with a modded spare System 11(no number) one that I have. Assuming it boots up after that it'll need a good cleaning and some cabinet work. I might look at a playfield swap down the road if I like it enough. The one in it isn't bad, but there is some insert lifting and lots of mylar.

Define blown? I might be interested in it.

#3374 1 year ago
Quoted from lordloss:

Define blown? I might be interested in it.

Game wouldn't boot up. It has lots of heat damage that looks to have been previously repaired. I will probably try to have it fixed and keep it as a spare, since I have four System 11s now.

#3375 1 year ago

Joining the club today with a non working beat up project lol. we will see if I can get her running!

#3376 1 year ago

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#3377 1 year ago

I fried my display trying to hook up an interactive under cab light kit.I either went to the wrong connector or tied into the wrong voltage.I'll get with the vendor to figure that out but my question is can this be fixed or just buy a new one.I verified it was fried by swapping in my one from fire which worked fine.

Edit: I got my answer and I was told since it was working before I shorted it out it should be able to be fixed
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#3378 1 year ago

Wish I was in the club anyone looking to sell

#3379 1 year ago
Quoted from tilted81:

Wish I was in the club anyone looking to sell

I have one with a fried display lol

#3380 1 year ago
Quoted from tilted81:

Wish I was in the club anyone looking to sell

Not mine but I know the guy.

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#3381 1 year ago
Quoted from LongJohns:

Coin door service buttons assembly parts:
3 switch metal bracket (holds the switches - screws to the label plate): Mouser, part number 611-C0310
4 switch metal bracket (holds the switches - screws to the label plate):

Hi everyone. Working on cleaning up a recently acquired F-14. Do some have 4 switch test button plates and some have three? Mine appears to have the three, but one is broken (middle, locking) and one is not wired to anything (furthest away from hinge, momentary). Can someone also point me in the right direction on wiring all three back up after I get the physical new switches to install? Thanks!

#3382 1 year ago

I am having an issue with my 2.5A slow blow fuse in the back box blowing when certain solenoids are triggered.

The special solenoids do not blow the fuse (flippers, slings, pop bumper).

Looking at the manual, it looks like maybe it is the solenoids that have an asterisk beside them. Indicating that they are controlled by the snubber board.

So does this sound like a snubber board issue? Any help or guidance is much appreciated.

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#3383 1 year ago

Maybe...
First find the coil which is causing the problem by going into the solenoid test.

1 week later
#3384 1 year ago

Grumpy (or anyone else with history on these boards)...

Quoted from GRUMPY:

The programming does it by sensing when the ball is plunge by the shooter rod and then turns on the coil after a 1/4 second. So if you short plunge the ball off and on the shooter lane switch ( like what kids do) the coil will stay on longer then it can handle after @ 4 plunges and melt down.

Well.. All moved in and took a look at my now no longer working F14 and the above is EXACTLY what I suspect has happened... Figured I would throw a list on here and ask if anyone has some recommendations.

I removed the lower diverter coil and yes - it was cooked, as was the corresponding transistor - though not nearly as badly as the picture above. I tested the 122s and all were within .4 and .6 except for Q79. I replaced that and rehooked the board to test.

When I power on - the upper diverter (Q77) now locks on immediately, even in attract. In coil test (which I had to run really quick before the upper diverter started to melt) - the following oddities in addition were found: VUK, Jagov kicker, and left kickback all function fine - but stay engaged once fired. Not sure about the lower diverter - I twisted the power together to complete the daisy chain and hadn't replaced the coil before this test.

Any thoughts on what all I should be testing and replacing if the TIP122s are testing through fine? (diode on the upper locking on diverter? Pre-driver? etc?)

Also - Flippers are active in attract mode. That definitely wasn't the case when I lent it out, but is lowest on my to do list.

Thanks! (Note - Also Crossposted in its own topic.)

#3385 1 year ago

Yup I picked this up like a week ago. She needed some love hahahaa... Lots of flasher issues which made me have to end up rebuilding the flasher boards under the play field, needed new decals for Yagov and lock/ landing. The Yagov Kicker was broken (Wire was disconnected and needed a new sleeve as it was super broken). Lots of Incandescence still to be replaced in the GI also sort of an odd mismatch of cool and warm white leds where they had been replaced. Needed a cleaning all the way around and particularly in the cabinet (The amount of dirt and grime I pulled out of that thing is impressive). It also needed a right ball gate for the kicker by the pop bumper). It has some audio issues (Like when I turn it on it just plays music, I still get the bong noise when it boots but it just seems to start playing sort of like carnival music). Otherwise though the audio works without a champ. Someone drilled the speaker panel cover into the panel with dry wall screws and the translight is in very bad shape and has been super taped or glued to the glass. (These parts have been ordered from Pinball Center from a friend in Switzerland). The PF will need to be swapped at some point as the dirt in between the mylar won't come out (Any ideas on this I am all ears, I've tried Naptha, 97% Rubbing Alcohol, and Clorox Wipes (Weird thing to try but you'd be surprised those things are strong). All in all though it has been a hell of alot of fun to play and has been a super fun project. Happy to have joined the club!

Quoted from GoneFishinLvMsg:

Not mine but I know the guy.

#3386 1 year ago

My ground prong broke off and I'd rather replace the whole power cord. What length am I needing to get to make sure it reaches like the old one does? Game is not currently at my house or I'd just measure what's there.

#3387 1 year ago

Can you ever have to much cord?

#3388 1 year ago

it solders in relatively close to the back of the machine - so you need as long a cord as you want...

#3389 1 year ago

Cool, so maybe something in the 8-12 foot range. I don't remember if those are sold in 5' increments, or something strange and I'll have to pick between 8' and 12'. I guess I will see when I get to ACE.

#3390 1 year ago

Where is GRUMPY?

#3391 1 year ago
Quoted from desertT1:

Cool, so maybe something in the 8-12 foot range. I don't remember if those are sold in 5' increments, or something strange and I'll have to pick between 8' and 12'. I guess I will see when I get to ACE.

If it helps - I just bought these from Amazon... Going to a hardware store you'll have to get an extension and cut the end off or something... This is much cheaper and gives you a 15' option

amazon.com link »

#3393 1 year ago
Quoted from statictrance:

it solders in relatively close to the back of the machine - so you need as long a cord as you want...

The power cord has to reach almost to the front of the game on F-14. You will have 5 feet of cord inside the machine, conservatively.

#3394 1 year ago

Question, I think the answer is no but I figured I would make sure before I started digging into it. When I boot up my F-14 should the only thing I hear be the bong from when the sound board boots? Currently when I turn it on I am hearing some music. Any thoughts on what could be causing this?

#3395 1 year ago

Ok, it half-assed works. I have 3 sys11/11A MPU boards and this is the only one that will even boot up. GI is out, ball feeder is out, and the bottom half of the display is out, but damn this game is fun as hell.

20180710_232102 (resized).jpg
#3396 1 year ago
Quoted from gutz:

The power cord has to reach almost to the front of the game on F-14. You will have 5 feet of cord inside the machine, conservatively.

He's right - I'm working on two early Sterns right now as well and got them mixed up. Apologies!

#3397 1 year ago
Quoted from desertT1:

My ground prong broke off and I'd rather replace the whole power cord. What length am I needing to get to make sure it reaches like the old one does? Game is not currently at my house or I'd just measure what's there.

Get a 20 foot extension cord and cut the fem end off (don't buy an appliance cord). Don't buy orange, get black.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/replacing-line-cords-plugs-wall-sockets-vids-guide

2 weeks later
#3398 1 year ago

OK - So I did a little digging on my fried board and wanted to ask a stupid question...

I cut the ZR8 and ZR9 off my board as they aren't needed for F-14 operation - but the upper diverter coil is still locking on. I'd assume the lower one is too - I just haven't replaced it yet.

Also, if I remove power from that one coil to prevent further damage - I have a few coils that fire correctly, but then stay on (upper kicker, jagov, kickback, etc)... I'm guessing that means I have a PIA or two that needs attention (Already replaced the TIP 102). I do have a logic probe and a general idea of how to use it, but haven't used it myself yet. Does anyone have any idea what the high/low readings of the various chips should be before I go poking and prodding around to similar chips on the board (or is my best bet comparing it to another sys-11 board in a different game)?

Here's another - if flippers stay engaged the entire time - I'm assuming that's the engage relay I need to look at... Any reason or concern with just letting them stay engaged outside of gameplay other than it's wrong? (since it's not on location and only powered on in use)

Anyone have any pictures of their special solenoid fuses added? I shouldn't have to worry about kids wrecking this again for awhile, but I want to be prepared for next time.

Thanks ahead of time.

#3399 1 year ago

Also - did a little more testing with the special solenoid connector off. With that connector off, the controlled solenoids go back to normal operation (no more sticking on) - so it's definitely something with the special circuit that's causing the hold on issue. Now to determine specifically what... Any recommendation between testing for values on bench vs. in game logic for next step?

Flippers are still active across all modes.

#3400 1 year ago
Quoted from statictrance:

the upper diverter coil is still locking on. I'd assume the lower one is too

Quoted from statictrance:

flippers stay engaged the entire time

These problems are related to a bad U-50 chip.

Quoted from statictrance:

Any recommendation between testing for values on bench vs. in game logic for next step?

If you have a power supply from an old computer and the means to make a connector for J-17, then testing on the workbench is much easier then in the backbox.

Quoted from statictrance:

Anyone have any pictures of their special solenoid fuses added?

I cut the thinner wire on the coil about two inches from the coil and install one of these. It takes only a minute to install.

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