There are some fixes that can be done to insure this doesn't happen again.
(Topic ID: 66172)
Linked Games
F-14 Tomcat
Williams, 1987
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Quoted from Indusguys:That makes a lot of sense. My buddy who owns the game said it was working great, had his grandkids over and all of sudden the game wasn't working.
Why I didn't pro create.. 
Newmarket, ON
Decatur, IL
Quoted from GRUMPY:There are some fixes that can be done to insure this doesn't happen again.
I would appreciate to know what these fixes are. I am also think he might have one or more bad coils.
Quoted from SUPERBEE:Hey Grumpy, any way to modify the pin to prevent this from happening ?
Yes, Q-77 and Q-79 on the CPU board can be replaced with a TIP 102 transistor as they are 60% stronger then the factory TIP122. You can remove the ramp and diverters, disassemble it, clean and lubricate all moving parts and replace both coil sleeves. Adjust it according to the Williams service bulletin. http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/804/Williams_1987_F_14_Tomcat_Service_Bulletin_no_number_undated_to_resolve_binding_diverter_gate_assembly.pdf
You can install a inline fuse for each of the diverter coils on the power wire, 1 amp slow blow fuse. You can add snubber relays for the coils to remove all the stress from the transistor and place it on the relay. You can add a high current driver (TIP 36c) for each coil, this is a higher wattage transistor to take the place of the snubber relay. And the last thing you can do is to remove the high voltage (75 volts) from the two coils and wire them with low voltage (32 volts) from the pop bumper coil.
You only need to do one of the last three items, After this it will never melt down again.
Quoted from Indusguys:I am also think he might have one or more bad coils.
Your friends pin will need at least.....
2 diverter coils (AL-26-1500-02)
2 coil diodes (1n4007)
2 driver transistors (TIP 102)
2 predriver transistors (2n4401)
2 zener diodes (1n4735a)
1 2.5 slow blow fuse
2 1 amp slow blow fuses
2 fuse holders
After all these items are replaced then it will need to be tested to be sure nothing else is smoked.
Quoted from heni1977:I have a rottendog board though, so did they fix this issue?
RD boards use mosfets (25 amp max) for drivers instead of TIP122 (5 amp max) transistors to control coils. So this means that the CPU problem is fixed, but now you have the capacity to really cook that coil until the 2.5 amp fuse burns. So I would still put a 1 amp slow blow fuse on each of the diverter coils, then you will not even ruin the coil. Pictured is a fuse holder that crimps on to the power wire just like any butt connector, since there is not a lot of room under the hood of F-14 these are easy to install (2 minutes) on the wire.
Quoted from heni1977:Will deff check those out. You got a link for them?
Quoted from GRUMPY:It is a poor design....
I'm headed over to check out mine that's having what sounds like a similar issue - let my old nieghbor borrow it while getting my new house all settled in. They have two kids, one around eight that's pretty hyper... Multiple short plunges seem highly possible and this will be something I look at right away.
Thanks for explaining - I really feel like I've learned something valuable to tuck away for a rainy day
So I would still put a 1 amp slow blow fuse on each of the diverter coils, then you will not even ruin the coil.
I have a Rottendog Board so I shall do this!
Thanks again GRUMPY.
I'm back up and mostly running I'm still missing the lower half of the back box lights (entire string)but the flasher is no longer locked on.no tips on the back box lights yet,i want to do a little fiddling around and see if I can figure it out on my own.
Look what came in the mail today! Many thanks to SUPERBEE. I wanted to buy it but he said no, then I offered to pay the shipping and then just silence. Then he says it's in the mail 
This must be why they call him SUPERBEE because he's a SUPER hell of a nice guy.
Thanks again, now PLAY BALL!
Quoted from GRUMPY:Look what came in the mail today! Many thanks to SUPERBEE. I wanted to buy it but he said no, then I offered to pay the shipping and then just silence. Then he says it's in the mail This must be why they call him SUPERBEE because he's a SUPER hell of a nice guy.
Thanks again, now PLAY BALL!
My pleasure Grumpy. The least i could do considering all the help you have provided me and so many others countless times here. I know its not perfect but hopefully better than the one you had.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Your friends pin will need at least.....
2 diverter coils (AL-26-1500-02)
2 coil diodes (1n4007)
2 driver transistors (TIP 102)
2 predriver transistors (2n4401)
2 zener diodes (1n4735a)
1 2.5 slow blow fuse
2 1 amp slow blow fuses
2 fuse holders
After all these items are replaced then it will need to be tested to be sure nothing else is smoked.
I will get on top of this, thanks so much for the help!
If I am purchasing a replacement board I can skip purchasing these right?2
coil diodes (1n4007)
2 driver transistors (TIP 102)
2 predriver transistors (2n4401)
2 zener diodes (1n4735a)
Quoted from Indusguys:If I am purchasing a replacement board I can skip purchasing these right?2
coil diodes (1n4007)
2 driver transistors (TIP 102)
2 predriver transistors (2n4401)
2 zener diodes (1n4735a)
You can skip all but the two diodes as these go on the new coils, sometimes when you buy a new coil it comes with a diode and sometimes not.
Hey everyone lot of good info being handed out on this thread . Would anyone like to help me out on a issue . So My F-14 in test mode coils all fire like they should when I go into switch test the pop bumper fires the left sling and vice versa Right sling does nothing . Hope its something simple or at least with yall help I wont be going in circles . Thanks
Quoted from trimoto:been a work in progress bought as a project
Take a pic of connector 1J18 so I can see the wire colors on this connector.
Been putting in some hours on F14. Here is a video of a game with a new Cointaker premium LED kit. I used the non-ghosting for the inserts and the frosted cool bulbs for the GI. Flashers are still incandescent. The game has a repro playfield and repro plastics. I will be working on a coin door rebuild next.
Quoted from GRUMPY:Take a pic of connector 1J18 so I can see the wire colors on this connector.
Now you have the real deal helping you . He will get you back up and running for sure.
Quoted from trimoto:After I found the pin 1j18 notice that somebody had plugged it in 1pen off so I move the plug down one pin everything works great thanks so much
Easy peasy lemon squeezey.
Quoted from gearheaddropping:Been putting in some hours on F14. Here is a video of a game with a new Cointaker premium LED kit. I used the non-ghosting for the inserts and the frosted cool bulbs for the GI. Flashers are still incandescent. The game has a repro playfield and repro plastics. I will be working on a coin door rebuild next.
» YouTube video
Looks great!
Quoted from trimoto:After I found the pin 1j18 notice that somebody had plugged it in 1pen off so I move the plug down one pin everything works great thanks so much
Yup, Grumpy will quickly help you find your way nine times out of ten. (said 9 of 10 cause i dont want Grump to get an inflated ego ! ) 
Quoted from SUPERBEE:Yup, Grumpy will quickly help you find your way nine times out of ten. (said 9 of 10 cause i dont want Grump to get an inflated ego ! )
Quoted from StylesBitchly:Hail to the King!!
Quoted from StylesBitchly:Hail to the King!!
I wish I had that much hair on my head!
Quoted from GRUMPY:Yes, Q-77 and Q-79 on the CPU board can be replaced with a TIP 102 transistor as they are 60% stronger then the factory TIP122. You can remove the ramp and diverters, disassemble it, clean and lubricate all moving parts and replace both coil sleeves. Adjust it according to the Williams service bulletin. http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/804/Williams_1987_F_14_Tomcat_Service_Bulletin_no_number_undated_to_resolve_binding_diverter_gate_assembly.pdf
You can install a inline fuse for each of the diverter coils on the power wire, 1 amp slow blow fuse. You can add snubber relays for the coils to remove all the stress from the transistor and place it on the relay. You can add a high current driver (TIP 36c) for each coil, this is a higher wattage transistor to take the place of the snubber relay. And the last thing you can do is to remove the high voltage (75 volts) from the two coils and wire them with low voltage (32 volts) from the pop bumper coil.
You only need to do one of the last three items, After this it will never melt down again.
In this post Grumpy says to replace both coil sleeves. I am looking at the manual and it doesn't list coil sleeves under the Launch ramp diverter assembly on page 44?
Quoted from Indusguys:In this post Grumpy says to replace both coil sleeves.
These are standard length coil sleeves.
Quoted from GRUMPY:I wish I had that much hair on my head!
Oh god me too !! lol
Just joined the f14 club. I got one for 500 bucks. It's on pretty good shape. Everything seems to be working on it. But I have one issue that I can seem to figure out. The right sling isn't working. I have checked the wires. Replaced the coil as the other one was melted. I have pulled the board looking for fried transitors and tips. I don't see anything wrong or nothing obvious. And help would be amazing.
Hmmm, melted coil. I'd backtrack from there. Which board part, diode, wire goes with it?
Also, did you run the test diagnostic?
I burned out the pop-up bumper coil in F-14. I replaced the 23-800-03 coil and adjusted the switch so that it won't happen again. But it looks like the coil is no longer getting power. I looked under the playfield I didn't see any blown fuses. Does anybody know what specific fuse powers this? I have schematics and can go to those if no one is sure. Thanks!
Quoted from Jon9508:Figured mine out. Reflowed all of the pins and repeated the u 55 and u56 chips. Seems to work now. Now to figure out why I don't have any switches working in colum 7.
My first step would be to figure out if it's the MPU or the playfield by testing the MPU without the playfield attached: http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#Switch_Matrix_Row_and_Column_Testing
Quoted from ajfclark:My first step would be to figure out if it's the MPU or the playfield by testing the MPU without the playfield attached: http://pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_System_9_-_11#Switch_Matrix_Row_and_Column_Testing
Thanks. That helped out a lot. I was on the mpu board. Ending up being q42. Luckily I had a few laying around.
Quoted from SerendipitySail:But it looks like the coil is no longer getting power.
With the P/F up there is a fuse in the lower right side. 2.5 sb fuse.
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