I have a question on how to properly check q22,want to make sure I have the correct info for you.I used the ground where the braided wire is and am I supposed to check the leg or the big metal piece? And to check continuity I go back to the dmm on ohm,black on 6 red on q18 in attract mode?

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Continuity is with power off. In your pic your red arrows are on Q-22. You need to check pin 6 to the middle leg of Q-18 not Q-22.

Q 22 was the first thing I checked I just wanted to confirm the proper way to check it

Ok, then disconnect 1J11 from the cpu board and put DMM on ohms. Black lead to the board ground screw and red lead to the metal tab. For TIP 122 .600 meg or higher, TIP 102 .900 meg or higher.

Q18 test at .2 in for continuity on ohm setting.q22 is 5.4 and with closer inspection I'm seeing some distortion.

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Turn on game and use logic probe to test pin 10 of SR7. What do you get?

Low in attract mode

Only thing left is a bad Q-22.

The pic confirms this but its good to go thru each part and test to make sure its just the one bad part and not multiple ones. Replace the TIP122 with a stronger TIP102 and reinstall the board.

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Thank younonce again!!! Good news is Q-22 was my first instinct bad news is I tested wrong and missed the obvious distortion and wouldn't know if 5.4 was good or bad.
Now before I order parts I need to figure out WW. I was looking at the switch matrix and seems like most of the issues have Q-44 in common.

Post it in the system 11 or WW threads and I will look for it.

I posted the other day in the WW thread

Any leads on a left slingshot plastic? New, old, doesn't matter.

Thanks!

Repros just listed on eBay. Also a used one out there as well.

ebay.com link: Williams F 14 Tomcat pinball machine slingshot Plastics

I might have one at home. If so, it will be faded but I will PM you when I get home tonight.

Thanks! Mines an average shape player. Not looking to stun the world with its mintiness - just the light show!

I have other used F-14 plastics if anyone is interested.

You wouldn't have the center Kill target plastic? Mine has 2 big chips in the bottom edge, very blinding when the flasher goes off.

Just a few pics of my newly restored F-14...

Repro pf from BuT:
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New ramp from Freeplay40 (thanks, Mark!!!):
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Comet LEDs everywhere:
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Powdercoated metal parts:
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And finally a little mod of my own:
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That red powder coat is great!
How did you do the speaker grill mods? They are cool!
How come your habit rails look gold in some pics and silver in others?

Wow, fhat is one sexy f14!!! Well done! Post up a gameplay video when you are done! I'm sure it will be a stunner for a while!

For me, polishing mylar IS POSSIBLE.

I went from waxed to this and hitting the upper right vuk feels like a flipper coil upgrade....

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No, sorry to say it was one of the broken ones when I bought the machine.

Wow, nice! I am installing a Coin Taker kit this weekend. Hope to have pictures next week.

Thanks for looking anyway, that piece takes a beating.

GRUMPY I will check, I think I have a extra one.

I'm pretty sure I have a nice one. I'll check when I get home Grumpy. Least I can do with all the help you've given me.

Someone get Grumpy a plastic !!!! It's the least we can do for him.I looked on ebay,I was going to buy him one but there's none available right now.

A friend of mine printed them for me - wasn´t exactly cheap, though.
I have a spare set if you´re interested....

The habitrails are chrome, the gold is just my lousy photographing skills......

LOL!
I think the gold looks cool!
Thanks, but I already spent way too much on F-14.

Let's not get crazy now, it's a very generous offer but no one needs to buy me one.

I know that but if I ebay would of had one it would be on the way to you.it would of cost me about as much as a good beer and I would definitely buy you a beer if we ever meet.

This is the one i have Grumpy. It has some scratches on it but its probably a lot better than the one you have. Pm your address if you want it and i will mail it too you.
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Here is a pic of the hardest IDC connector to convert to a Molex connector. Unlike most connectors where the single wires terminate at the IDC connector, this one has all wires passing through (wire in and out). You have to splice both wires to a third wire (see all the blue shrink wrap) which gets the Trifurcon crimp. All wiring is soldered. Takes a little time.

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Some props to Styles for being an awesome pinsider and sending me his spare left slingshot plastic that was missing from my F14. Game is looking great!

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I feel like a proud Papa!
Now you can DDDDDDD-Die in style!
Cheers!

Hey everyone, trying to help a friend get his F14 working. He told me is pop number, slings and ball trough ejector weren't working. Went over to have a look and immediately noticed some damage on the board. Anyone know what might have caused this? If I have the board repaired will this just continue to happen?

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Oh my ! I would guess that someone possibly put in a higher rated fuse. That's pretty smoked.

Possible coil locked on and smoked the transistors, but the question is why did they blow up. The fuse should have popped first.

I would agree!

Looks like both transistors cooked and probably the R19 and all adjacent resistors.. Ouch!!

This should be a 2.5A slow blow under playfield. With playfield up, it will be towards bottom right.

FYI, I changed this fuse to a 2.5 A Fast Blow (because I blew the U-11 logic chip on my Rottendog MPU board once while adjusting the pop bumper) and have never had it blow under normal play. You might want to try this after fixing that board just to be extra safe.

Yikes. Yeah i would definitely double check EVERYTHING on that circuit before powering up a new or repaired board. That was some SERIOUS amps to cause that much damage.

Just checked the fuse he had in there and it says 3A 250 313. So definitely a higher rated fuse. What is the next step? Is this board repairable? Should I be looking at a replacement board instead?

Can be a result of a blocked contact... remember same issue on my Bombcat at the right slingshot... alos burned both Transistors (Driver and Main).

I would think the board is repairable. Would make sure that who ever does the repair has a good test bench and to go over it thoroughly. I would also check all the fuses to make sure none of the others are wrong!!!!

Great, I will probably try to take the repair road first, see if that does the trick. I will research how to check for a blocked contact in the mean time.

Translated, this means look for a stuck switch. Those transistors are Q-77 and Q-79. Both of these transistors are for the divertor ramp. There are no switches for these transistors as the computer program opens and closes these divertors as needed. This is a very common problem on F-14.

By common problem do you mean those transistors failing or is it something causing them to fail?

I also need to know this. I really can't replace this board if I have know idea what caused it in the first place. While I am waiting for the board to be repaired what else should I be checking?

It is a poor design, there are 8 coils on this circuit with a 2.5 amp sb fuse. 6 of these coils are the larger size 23/800 and draw too much power to be directly controlled by a TIP 122 so Williams added a snubber relay in between to handle the load. The TIP only turns on the relay and the relay takes the load. Now on the divertor coils they are smaller and less powerful, I think a 23/1200. These coils are just under the upper limits of a TIP 122 and Williams decided not to use relays in between to take the load. So if everything is perfect this will work, but add 30 years of wear and tear plus some extra friction from worn or not lubricated pivots and poof goes the TIP. Now when the TIP shorts it locks on the power to the coil, but these smaller power coils only draw about 2.5 amps when on so they sit there and cook until the coil resistance drops from the insulation melting. When this happens it finally blows the fuse after drawing about 4 amps thru the circuit. And the last problem is that Williams did not use a switch for these 2 coils to turn them on and off. The programming does it by sensing when the ball is plunge by the shooter rod and then turns on the coil after a 1/4 second. So if you short plunge the ball off and on the shooter lane switch ( like what kids do) the coil will stay on longer then it can handle after @ 4 plunges and melt down.

Grand Master Grumpy!
I'm glad you explained this! I did not know it.

Mic drop!

That makes a lot of sense. My buddy who owns the game said it was working great, had his grandkids over and all of sudden the game wasn't working.